No one tried Nittaku's blade?
Sreg W.
comments? EXPP rated it as #1 shakehand blade!
Victor Kan
It is pretty fast, light and very "drumskin"-like.
The handle is uncomfortable--flat on the top and bottom. The core wood
was to be of inconsistent grain orientations.
I don't think I'd buy one.
expp
student---Peter Lee. He is using Nittaku KVT (+Innova UL MAX on both
side), which is a faster, 5-ply-wood+Kevlar, round-handle version of
KVW.
Cheng told me last night that he likes KVT, and he personally wishes
to play with it in tournament, but he is now sponsored by BTY, so…
KVT has also been fully tested by EXPP "authorized coach" Ms. AO (an
2400-2500 player), she loves it, because it is good in looping as well
as in flat hitting. Since her tournament season is over, she is
getting rid of BTY Viscaria (which is not good on flat-hitting), and
picking up KVT.
======================
A few more words about KVW here. The semi-squared handle is great,
because you can definitely sand it off to make it round in 3 minutes
just like what I did for myself. But somebody, for instance, EXPP
"authorized coach" Mr. Flash (Plaied NA-team with Cheng in 1999, rated
2693, at age 16!!! Just got 3 gold medals in this June, during a big
province tournament-- Si-Chuan province, where Cheng was the head
coach 12 years ago, very strong in TT.) likes the handle shape so
much, because he is a power looper, that handle can make both forehand
and backhand angle accurately fixed.
Another thing about KVW is the rubber to combine with. Because KVW has
sharp and superb ball feeling, so
1. Soft & thick rubbers are the best match (in this case Innova UL is
lot better than normal Innova, normal Innova is pretty like Sriver FX
and higher price)
2. After using flash-deep glue (EXPP offers the Joola Rossi 100
Plus----super fast 30-second-dry, marinated-like soaking power, which
is used by Peter Lee and Mr. Flash) the result is even better.
If you pick wrong rubber or don't fresh re-glue, than KVW is a piece
of fast food---I mean it could be no special at all, no question about
that.
So, it is a personal taste issue, and also depends on your style and
little bit on playing level, I believe.
================================
Kan, what do you mean by saying "inconsistent grain orientations"? Can
you describe a little more? I am curious about it.
Sreg W.
it suitable for developing players comparing to a regular 5-ply OFF-/ALL+
blade?
I think EXPP.NET has a very good price about this blade, keep this going!
"expp" <in...@expp.net> wrote in message
news:ff47da74.02080...@posting.google.com...
> We (EXPP) just had a new sponsored player---Cheng, Yinghua best
> student---Peter Lee. He is using Nittaku KVT (+Innova UL MAX on both
> side), which is a faster, 5-ply-wood+Kevlar, round-handle version of
> KVW.
>
> Cheng told me last night that he likes KVT, and he personally wishes
> to play with it in tournament, but he is now sponsored by BTY, so.
Nick Doben
> I found no reviews of Nittaku Kevlar so far on this newsgroup. Any
> comments? EXPP rated it as #1 shakehand blade!
I have not tried this specific blade. It seems to me that the EXPP
folks have a definate lean toward fast and very fast blades. They're
entitled to their opinions, but their's don't agree with mine.
expp
earlier) is a typical "Developing Player"!
If Cheng, Yinghua approves that even KVT (a faster KVW if you will)
fits Peter, there is no reason to say a slower KVW is not good for a
"Developing Player".
Moreover, when Cheng asked us ( http://www.expp.net) to sponsor his
student, he let us pick a very fast blade to Peter.
Another story is when lots of Chinese kids train in China, their blade
are much faster than those used by European kids. Why? Simply because
TT is quick sport in term of timing, use the fastest possible weapon
to you is the first advantage you could take before the game starts.
I still remember, when I was trained in Youngth Palace, every team
mate got a pretty fast racket, even the choppers (they just used very
slow sponge for controlling better).
The fact of the matter is, no matter what level player you are, you
must have your own play style. If you are an attacker, choose a fast
weapon from the very beginning. Most armature players or never-regular
trained player always don't know this until they give up playing or
tired of facing losses in the games.
Just last example, lots of Good American players got defeated by
so-so Chinese Penholders, why? Only because Chinese Penholder style
has quicker timing which is partly powered by faster blades!!! True?
expp
you want about Ping-Pong or Table-Tennis.
Here is just deadly Fxxking slow!!!
If you guys like, we can open different flavor forums, such "Ping-Pong
politics", "Ping-Pong jokes", "Ping-Pong for help", etc. just give
English-speaking players a much better place to talk.
I can promise one thing that EXPP BBS is your homeland, nobody's IP
will be blocked out, if you keep talking anything about Ping-Pong.
Just don't talk about Communism---that is the only requirement!
marco
feel the ball properly, as the ball comes off the blade too fast. Serving,
pushing, slow looping, all is compromised.
I know of only a couple of kids who used fast equipment early on and
achieved great results, but those kids were extremely talented and spent
hundreds of hours practicing.
marco
"expp" <in...@expp.net> wrote in message
news:ff47da74.02080...@posting.google.com...
expp
KVW is indeed only an OFF blade---we believe. This is faster than BTY
Tim Boll Spirit, but slower than Stiga Clipper Wood, super carbon, BTY
primo carbon, etc.
A lot of kids and girls like KVW, mostly because of it clear ball
feeling. Our first sponsored player Jiang, Yi----currently rated over
2600 in CTTA, does not like KVW, it is a little too powerful than Yi
needs. Yi's choice is Joola Rossi Power Light in order to improve his
defense and consistency.
The reason we rated KVW no.1 shake blade is because it can fit most
players, from beginners to pros.
Victor Kan
> you describe a little more? I am curious about it.
The one KVW blade I played with had a center ply (Balsa wood I believe)
that was glued up from multiple pieces of wood. Normally, a TT blade
should use quartersawn material, which when looked at from the end of
the blade has growth rings perpendicular to the face of the blade.
On that one KVW, the growth rings of the various pieces were a mix of
quartersawn, plain sawn (90 degrees away from quartersawn), and rift
sawn (45 degrees away from quartersawn).
In ASCII art:
Quartersawn:
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
The KVW I played with:
| | | | \ \ \ \ / / / / / / = = = = = = | | | | | \ \ \ \ \ \ |
(I forget the exact pattern, but you get my point)
Quartersawn is more expensive, more consistent, more stable.
Sreg W.
Regardless the speed, this KVW actually sounds very attractive. Can you
compare KVW type of composite blade v.s. a fast 1-ply Cypress or 5-ply
Hinoki wood blade? Although I am developing, I am feeling Stiga Allround
evolution (ALL+) too slow, Avalox 555 OFF- kind of OK to too fast. I guess
due to different company, the rating isn't accurate.
"expp" <in...@expp.net> wrote in message
news:ff47da74.02080...@posting.google.com...
Andrew Gooding
"Sreg W." wrote:
> In fact, I am currently looking for shakehand blade that has "best feel".
> Regardless the speed, this KVW actually sounds very attractive. Can you
> compare KVW type of composite blade v.s. a fast 1-ply Cypress or 5-ply
> Hinoki wood blade? Although I am developing, I am feeling Stiga Allround
> evolution (ALL+) too slow, Avalox 555 OFF- kind of OK to too fast. I guess
> due to different company, the rating isn't accurate.
If you think an Avalox 555 (off-) is to fast than a 1 ply hinoki/Cypress wood
blade will definitely be too fast for you. I started with one and it probably
held be back. My Senkoh-1 (despite what Paddle Palace has it rated as) is at
least an OFF blade and too fast for a developing player or one who wants to
learn to loop consistently (as opposed to very fast).
-- Andrew
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 80,000 Newsgroups - 16 Different Servers! =-----
Andrew Gooding
bit hardewr than you are used to so it feels like you don't have enough time
with the ball. The 1 ply hinoki blades will be faster, as will the Kevlar
Nittaku blade, but as they are softer, you get a little more time with the ball
before it rockets away.
Here's an example. I was playing at the club tonight against a couple players
2-300 points above me. I played my first matches with a very fast, hard blade
(Butterfly Layer Speed-R) and a soft sponge unglued rubber. Against a player
below me it felt fine, but when I was forced to defend, the ball went all over
the place.
I switched to my new Spintech Warp 9, a composite blade that is less hard, but
similar speed with a slightly faster and harder sponge rubber. Suddenly my
defensive shots were going in and rallies were lasting longer. I even took a
game or two. I noticed no difference in speed of the shots, but the dwell time
of the Warp 9 seemed to allow me to respond effectively and to put spin on the
ball.
When I went back to working witrh the lower rated player he was amazed at the
spin I was putting on the ball. So the dwell time helped on offensive shots
too.
In the past I preferred very fast blades and slow rubber. I may need to modify
that to slightly less fast blades and slightly faster rubber for a more
balanced game.
-- Andrew
"Sreg W." wrote:
> Do you think if it is because the rubber I used? What kind of rubber is
> suggested?
>
> "Andrew Gooding" <good...@marshall.edu> wrote in message
> news:3D4BC6BB...@marshall.edu...
Sreg W.
faster blade creates a combo that is more difficult to control...
"Andrew Gooding" <good...@marshall.edu> wrote in message
news:3D549755...@marshall.edu...
Andrew Gooding
rubber, you are less dependent on moving your blade aggressively to make the
shot while defending. Having a slightly slower, softer blade gives you more
dwell time so easier to put spin on the shot.
Of course a fast blade and fast rubber will be harder to control and a slow
blade and slow rubber will be easier to control.
Jack Miller
- Jack -
Victor Kan <victo...@iname.com> wrote in message news:<3D4B482C...@iname.com>...
Victor Kan
pieces at the local hobby stores to find one or two really good ones.
When I made blades with it I glued up two narrower pieces on the edges,
avoiding a glue line on meat of the blade.
Obviously I'm not against gluing up pieces to make a wider piece. I
just think more care (and thereby expense) should be taken to "do it right".
Jack Miller
they are not solid quarter sawn stock - usually 3" max strips bonded
together. The quality has been really good in the past, but lately
I'm like you where I have to go through the entire stock to find a
couple of good quality sheets. Then, I have a special jig made up to
to bond a 1/2" wide extension for added width for oversize blades. It
works really well, and you really have to look hard to see the seam
line.
A lot of customers love my balsa models. However, my personal
favorite is my spruce core, KevCar/Koto 7-ply blade. It is far more
consistent throughout the ranges...
- Jack -
Victor Kan <victo...@iname.com> wrote in message news:<3D56D318...@iname.com>...
driv...@hotmail.com
shots that sink the ball into the sponge and allows the surface to
wrap around the ball more, allowing more grip with "steering" ability.
Hard rubber is better for "flat" shots and blocks. Depends how you
hit.