Loading a tilt-bed trailer by yourself: Advice Requested
rayp...@aol.com
I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
solving, so here it goes:
How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
yourself?
Obviously, there's no problem when you're with a buddy, but on those
occasions when I'm alone, it's a chore. Last year, I dealt with this by
simply throwing a couple of large rocks in the bed of my old pickup truck
(my tow vehicle). When I needed to load the sled, I would just put the
rocks on the back of the trailer bed, tilting it into position until I
drove my sled onto the trailer. However, I got rid of the old pickup and
bought a new Ford Explorer this year, and I just can't bring myself to
carry rocks in the back of that vehicle.
I've also tried driving the sled right up to the trailer and then getting
off and holding the trailer bed down with one foot while reaching back for
the throttle. This works well in my cleared driveway where traction isn't
a problem (no studs in the track), but not at all when there's snow or ice
on the ground. Too much of the track loses contact when the skis get on
the bed, and with zero momentum, the track just spins.
Last weekend I was getting desperate trying to accomplish this by myself
in a remote area with no one around. I even tried propping the bed up by
inserting some sticks lengthwise between the tongue of the trailer and the
bed. I hoped that they would hold the bed up until I drove on, at which
point the weight of the sled would break the stick and tilt the bed down
into position. Nice theory...unfortunately, the sticks wouldn't break and
the bed stayed tilted up. With snow on the bed and no studs in the track,
the ol' Yammy promptly slid right back down off the trailer bed. I tried
this 5 or 6 times using thinner sticks each time but with precisely the
same results.
Finally I flagged down a DNR officer who helped me out by standing on the
trailer bed, but boy that was embarassing!! There has to be a better way
to do this....
Ray Pezzi
96 VMax 600 XT
Lee Sledjeski
Ray,
Here's how I do it...
1. Get an old 2x4 of the appropriate length to fit between the
ground and the frame of your trailer in the tilted position.
2. with your 2x4 solidly in place drive the sled up onto the
trailer and lock the parking brake.
3. Now it's just a matter of removing the 2x4 and latching down
the sled.
4. Since you don't have any studs, I would install some kind
of traction product on your trailer so the sled doesn't
slide back down. I used an old 20" wide track from a snowmobile
junk yard. Cut it in half and you'll have enough for both
sides of a two place trailer. With no studs, you will have to
keep this clean for it to be effective, but rubber on rubber
gives you a good coeff. of friction. There have been other posts
on trailer traction solutions, they probably all work, this one
happens to be free or extremely cheap.
5. Or just look for your friend and mine the handy dandy snowbank
No trailer tilt required just drive down onto the trailer.
Good Luck,
Lee
94 vmax600
rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>
> I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
> this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
> solving, so here it goes:
>
> How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
> yourself?
>
jeff...@nh.ultranet.com
Scott C. Sullivan
In a galaxy far, far away, Lee Sledjeski typed:
> 1. Get an old 2x4 of the appropriate length to fit between the
> ground and the frame of your trailer in the tilted position.
> 2. with your 2x4 solidly in place drive the sled up onto the
> trailer and lock the parking brake.
This would work great _IF_ my sled _HAD_ a parking brake!
Donald J. Dickson
> In article <19970211123...@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
> rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>>I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
>>this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
>>solving, so here it goes:
>>
>>How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
>>yourself?
>>
I have seen one model of trailer which had a winch (just like a boat
trailer) which was used to raise and hold the front of the trailer in the
tilted position while loading and then lowered after the snowmobiles were
in place.
Don Dickson
--
A simple system that works will invariably evolve to a complex one that
doesn't.
Roy Moyer
I used to have this same problem. I solved it by going to a junkyard
and getting a hydraulic lift arm off of a Mustang hatchback. I mounted
it to the toungue and bottom of the trailer in the same fashion it was
mounted on the car. Now, all I have to do is tilt the trailer back and
the cylinder is enough to hold it in place till I drive on. Once I am
on, the weight of the sled tilts the trailer down...... problem solved.
However, if your trailer pivots, this will not work as it will twist the
cylinder. Just a possible solution......
Roy Moyer
Scott C. Sullivan
In a galaxy far, far away, Roy Moyer typed:
This is an awesome idea!
Sleder600
I use a piece of wood to prop the trailer up on the side of it. When I get
on I hold the brake, hop over the sled, kick the board out and lift the
back of the sled up to drop the trailer.
Works for me
Pete Sampson
TDF
Londonderry, NH
D_Pepin
rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>
> I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
> this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
> solving, so here it goes:
>
> How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
> yourself?
>
I regularly load my sled by myself onto my tilt bed trailer. I have an
air dam on the front which makes it heavy up front. My trailer has an
"L" shaped pin which holds the bed down to the tongue. I lift up the
bed, wedge the "L" shaped pin between the tongue and the edge of the
flange from the bed. This just barely holds the trailer up which is
what I want. The motion of the sled climbing the trailer knocks out the
pin and the trailer tilts down. Has worked every time but you need to be
quick on the brake if the pin flips out just as you reach the trailer.
Could make for some new clearance lights at a minimum! Hope this helps.
Dave Pepin
97 Mach Z
Alan Burgher
Probably most of us snowmobilers have experienced this frustration.
I found a device in a snowmobile magazine that I thought was the ideal
solution. Instead of paying $50.00 to purchase it I studied the picture
and made my own...it works like this.
I used 2 lengths (approx. 12" long) of 1/8" wall square tubing that would slide
inside one another (1/2" and 3/4"). The larger size requires a hole dilled
at approx. 1/3 of length. The smaller size requires holes drilled at about
.75" apart down 3/4 of its length.
I made 2 clevise mounts and welded one on the top side of the tow bar
aproximately 15" from the trailer bed and welded the other to the center
of the front of the trailer bed just above the tow bar. Drill a hole through
the end of each peice of square tubing and pin it (I used hitch pins) to the
clevise mount with one tube slid inside the other.
When you tilt your trailer the tubing will slide inside each other and pivot
on the mounts. Once the trailer is at the desired tilt place a pin or bolt into
the drilled hole which should line up with one in the smaller tubing that issliding
inside. Once your sled is on the trailer pull this pin and gently let your trailer
down. Works like a charm for me. Let me know if you want more details as I
have a drawing for this.
P.S. An old track or rubber mat screwed down to your trailer bed is a big help
also for loading.
xltboy
rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>
<snip>
why dont you just tighten the bolt down that the tounge pivits on? if
you have a hollow tounge you can add a spacer on the inside of the
tounge so you can tighten the bolt down even more. if you tighten this
enough you should get enough force to keep the trailer bed at any
position you want.
xltboy
gen...@ibm.net
Relax been there install a pair of gas shocks from a rear hatch or hood
of a car.Install at the front tongue to the bed on an angle so that they
are mostly horizontal when it is locked downin travel mode.
struts are available at the wreckers cheap or $20.00 cdn & up at the
auto wholesaler or can tire.
Len
SnowDuster
gen...@ibm.net wrote:
>
>
> Relax been there install a pair of gas shocks from a rear hatch or hood
> of a car.Install at the front tongue to the bed on an angle so that they
> are mostly horizontal when it is locked downin travel mode.
> struts are available at the wreckers cheap or $20.00 cdn & up at the
> auto wholesaler or can tire.
> Len
Me to, Been there done that. I installed a gas shock on my trailer a
couple of years ago and it works great. My trailerwas out of balance
because of a salt shield added on the front. If you do this just make
sure that you get a strong enough shock and position it so you get the
full action of the tilting bed. It is the greatest thing since sliced
bread. I used to use the boards and all that stuff but this is great
because it works to perfection every time you load.
mxz
rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
>this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
>solving, so here it goes:
>
>How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
>yourself?
If you have a Triton trailer there is a kit you can buy
for $40 US that has 2 coil springs that mount under the bed.
when you release the pin the springs flip the bed up and hold it
there while you load. I don't know if the other brands have a
kit like that or not.
Steve LaMunion (also load my tip up by myself)
Jim&Stacey Turcotte
rayp...@aol.com wrote in article
<19970211123...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
> I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
> this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
> solving, so here it goes:
>
> How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
> yourself?
I just set my spare truck tire on the end of the trailer when it is
tilted. Either that or back it up to a snowbank. One time my sled came
crashing down onto the trailer. It hit real hard, suprised it did not go
thru it.
Jim
Steve Campbell
>this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
>solving, so here it goes:
>
>How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
>yourself?
>
>
>96 VMax 600 XT
Get a piece of 2X6 about 4 feet long and attach it to the back end of the
trailer with a pin, hinge or whatever. When you want to load the sled just
flop the board down, drive one ski onto the board and the weight of the sled
will force the trailer bed to tilt. Drive onto the trailer and you're done.
We used to load a race car onto a tilt trailer using this technique - caused a
lot of panic with by-standers who would rush over to tell us we forgot the
other ramp.
Steve Campbell
and...@aol.com
rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
>this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
>solving, so here it goes:
>
>How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
>yourself?
>
>I'm normally doing this by myself, so I've got lots of experience. :)
I've had a lot of experience with this as well. I saw that Tom uses the
tie down bar to hold the sled up. I haven't tried that yet. What I try
to do is put enough weight on the back end of the trailer to keep it down.
The trick is to find the weight source. I have a board that I uses to
protect the edge of the trailer from the carbides that adds some weight.
I also have used a dumbell (the weights not a friend or SO ;) ) to add
some weight. Once the sled gets up on the trailer I can hop off of the
sled and walk towards the front until I overcome the weight on the rear of
the trailer. The trick is to have some source of weight around. Most of
the time I am loading by myself I am at home so there are plenty of
sources around.
FWIW.
Andy Phillips
Bob Roney
I've had lots of trailers and the best setup, which has already been
mentioned, is a TRITON lift kit...... They work real slick and are easy
to install.
Bob
Ronald Viegelahn
In article <19970211123...@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
<rayp...@aol.com> wrote:
>I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
>this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
>solving, so here it goes:
>
>How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
>yourself?
>
>this 5 or 6 times using thinner sticks each time but with precisely the
>same results.
>Finally I flagged down a DNR officer who helped me out by standing on the
>trailer bed, but boy that was embarassing!! There has to be a better way
>to do this....
>
>Ray Pezzi
>96 VMax 600 XT
Hi
I made my own single place trailer by extending a 4x8 utility trailer.
It was designed to pivot on the wheels when you pulled two pins that
hold the hitch to the main frame.
Knowing that I would have a hard time loading it my self and that some
day I'd have to get it loaded after a break down.
I mounted a boat winch on the front of the bed. Works like a champ !
sleding in california
TonEED
Some trailers(karavan) have an optional spring kit that tilts the bed when
the pin is pulled.
Tony
gen...@ibm.net
Tried that on mine had it so tight could hardly move it,buy the time I
got on the sled it had moved. Still think gas struts is the answer for
these badly engineered trailers.
Len
Brian Nemec
rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>
> I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
> this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
> solving, so here it goes:
>
> How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
> yourself?
>
or bashing! Everyone has had great ideas for loading a sled on a tilt
bed trailer by themselves. I personally like the hatch back shock or
long 2X6 ramp ideas the best. And most all of us have a blown track
laying around we could screw down to add traction to the bed.
Once again, congratulations. The heart of this newsgroup is still
alive.
XLTBri
WGUZIOR
>In article <19970211123...@ladder01.news.aol.com>,
> rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
>this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
>solving, so here it goes:
>
Triton sells a spring you attach to the tongue of the trailer that will hold the
bed up for loading. I installed one on my Worthington Trailer. The best 28.00
I ever spent. If you can't find a Triton dealer you can call them directly, not
sure if they have a Home Page. Send me a note if you can't find their number
and I will look it up.
Bill
Philip Mitchell
You could also install a helper spring at the pivot point. See a Triton dealer
for the kit. It looks as if you could adapt it to any tilt bed trailer.
Phil
--
Phil Mitchell - pmit...@xyplex.com
"The great thing about having a lot of ideas is that they
don't all have to be great ones."
and...@aol.com wrote in article <19970212135...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
>
> rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>
> >I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
> >this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
> >solving, so here it goes:
> >
> >How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
> >yourself?
> >
Randall Bock
> > How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
> > yourself?
> >
I just purchased a two place sled trailer from CAR*MATE, Leeper, PA. It
balances prefectly and will stay tilted without help from any springs or
helper arms. Just pull the pin, tilt up, drive on, lock the sled
brake,tilt back down and repin. I couldn't believe how easy it was.
randy
-----------------------x-----------------------
Randall G Bock internet r...@psu.edu
Engineering Assoc & voice 814-863-2300
Affiliate Instructor fax 814-863-1031
132 Ag Eng Bldg
Ag & Bio Engineering Dept
Penn State
University Park PA 16802 USA
Research Fabrication WWW Page
http://server.age.psu.edu/dept/shop/ABEshop.html
BARRY GODDARD
rayp...@aol.com wrote:
>
> I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
> this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
> solving, so here it goes:
>
> yourself?
>
> occasions when I'm alone, it's a chore. Last year, I dealt with this by
> simply throwing a couple of large rocks in the bed of my old pickup truck
> (my tow vehicle). When I needed to load the sled, I would just put the
> rocks on the back of the trailer bed, tilting it into position until I
> drove my sled onto the trailer. However, I got rid of the old pickup and
> bought a new Ford Explorer this year, and I just can't bring myself to
> carry rocks in the back of that vehicle.
> I've also tried driving the sled right up to the trailer and then getting
> off and holding the trailer bed down with one foot while reaching back for
> the throttle. This works well in my cleared driveway where traction isn't
> a problem (no studs in the track), but not at all when there's snow or ice
> on the ground. Too much of the track loses contact when the skis get on
> the bed, and with zero momentum, the track just spins.
> Last weekend I was getting desperate trying to accomplish this by myself
> in a remote area with no one around. I even tried propping the bed up by
> inserting some sticks lengthwise between the tongue of the trailer and the
> bed. I hoped that they would hold the bed up until I drove on, at which
> point the weight of the sled would break the stick and tilt the bed down
> into position. Nice theory...unfortunately, the sticks wouldn't break and
> the bed stayed tilted up. With snow on the bed and no studs in the track,
> the ol' Yammy promptly slid right back down off the trailer bed. I tried
> same results.
> Finally I flagged down a DNR officer who helped me out by standing on the
> trailer bed, but boy that was embarassing!! There has to be a better way
> to do this....
>
> Ray Pezzi
> 96 VMax 600 XT
1. You had the right idea with the stick method and some people are
close with the 2x4 method. The secret is the length you cut the stick
or 2x4. It needs to be long enough to hold up the front end of the
trailer but short enough so that when your skis start to slide on the
trailer they push the rear end of the trailer even further down, thus
raising the front end up. When the front end raises up the 2x4 will
fall to the ground and you can continue to drive right up. You can do
this all in one motion.
2. For those with a parking brake just use something like an EZ Lift
(which you use to lift the rear end of your sled for
storage,maintence,warm-up etc.) you can use the EZ Lift to hold the
front end of the trailer up.
Tom Skwarek
Brian Nemec wrote:
>
> rayp...@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I know this seems kind of silly so I've been a little leery of posting
> > this. However, it's a real problem that I need to do a much better job of
> > solving, so here it goes:
> >
> > How the heck are you supposed to load your sled on a tilt-bed trailer by
> > yourself?
I'm sure there have been some great answers to this and if someone has
already mentioned this then apologies... .
I use a block of wood to keep the trailer tilted and then use a product
called SledLoc. It simply locs one ski as you drive up into the device.
With my Top Cap trailer cover I simply drive up and into the lock and
shut the sled off. They sled stays nicely on the trailer and we can load
the other side or what ever. I then shut the cover and go. SledLocs and
the TopCap cover really make trailering a pull and go kind of operation.
Driving on is as easy as driving into to the lock, and coming off is as
easy as flipping a latch. I'd much rather use the sled-loc than play
with tie down bars...
Just my two cents worth...
Tom Skwarek
Steve Cosner
Here's a possible solution that (if it works), should be the
cheapest:
Use a 2x4, but instead, make it a little longer than the height of the
front of the bed when it's tilted. When you prop up the bed, make
sure the 2x4 has a good tilt to it, so it is not straight up. Prop it
under the front of the tilted bed, but not so the back end of the bed
is all the way down--almost, but not quite, touching the ground.
Now when you drive your sled forward, it forces the bed to tilt all
the way, and the 2x4 comes loose and falls out of the way. Continue
driving up the trailer, until it balances and starts down.
Can't say as I've tried this solution--my trailer stays tilted up on
it's own. I might be afraid of driving too far up, and the bed
comming down with a damaging force.
Good luck,
Steve Cosner
mike
What I always did when i was alone was .... Drive the machine up and hit
the brake and walk to the front of the trailer and it will slam down and
lock flat .... hope this is helpful to you .... mike
Richard Kay
Do you wanna know the most inexpensive and effective and SIMPLE way to
solve your problem? I have a home-made single place tilt, amd I had the
same problem. If a friendly "foot" to hold your trailer is not available,
go to your local salvage yard and bolt 2 pieces of lead near the outside
edges of the rear of the trailer.I needed about 25 lbs. And it really
isn't a lot of lead(size relavent) When you pop the tilt pin. up it goes
! (and stays up !) Drive on with caution. I nudge my sled easy, so the
bed doesen't come slamming down. Total cost :maybe 10 bucks? My setup
works painlessly smooth. My track has no picks, so I cut 5 pieces of oak
3/4 by 3/4 by 20" long and screwed them to the deck of the trailer for
traction aid.
BTW.....I also like the gas shock idea, maybe a summertime revision !!
Good Luck! Rich K.
1983 Ski- Doo Blizzard 9700
Michael Hart
Tom Skwarek (skwa...@tc.umn.edu) wrote:
: I use a block of wood to keep the trailer tilted and then use a product
: called SledLoc. It simply locs one ski as you drive up into the device.
: With my Top Cap trailer cover I simply drive up and into the lock and
: shut the sled off. They sled stays nicely on the trailer and we can load
: the other side or what ever. I then shut the cover and go. SledLocs and
: the TopCap cover really make trailering a pull and go kind of operation.
: Driving on is as easy as driving into to the lock, and coming off is as
: easy as flipping a latch. I'd much rather use the sled-loc than play
: with tie down bars...
: Just my two cents worth...
Ok now I start the bickering.. :-)
I'd *never* let the sleds go with just one ski locked in. Had too many
close calls while trailering to know what a little momentum can do.
BTW my trailer was upside down once already this season... (Kevin rolled
his truck) Both sleds stayed on with tiedown bars and single Ancra straps
on the rear. Luckily snow was deep and damage was only a windshield on one
sled and hood/pod, windshield and hoop on the other. Sleds were good to go
a week later but the truck took 6wks. What would have happened if they
were just held by the tip of one ski?
Michael
wve...@teleweb.net
> BTW my trailer was upside down once already this season... (Kevin rolled
> his truck) Both sleds stayed on with tiedown bars and single Ancra straps
> on the rear. Luckily snow was deep and damage was only a windshield on
one
> sled and hood/pod, windshield and hoop on the other. Sleds were good to
go
> a week later but the truck took 6wks. What would have happened if they
> were just held by the tip of one ski?
>
> Michael
>
southbound on I-75 not too far south of the Mackinaw bridge a few weeks
ago?