Secondary Clutch Adjustment
J howes
98 Zr 600 EFi...what is the result of switching the secondary spring either
a notch up or down. She's in the middle now. I have stock weights on the
primary.
Karl Shoemaker
which
was not what I wanted for hill climbing, so I went back to the middle.
On trails it may be different.
Karl
--
for info and email click on:
http://www.dalek.org/srg
Stan & Yvette
rpms's. Only do this if your sled is not pulling enough or is pulling too
many rpm's. What is the rpm your sled is supposed to be clutched at? If its
not where it should be, you could make minor adjustments with the spring. I
am by no means a "clutch expert" so you might want to call your local dealer
for more info.
Karl Shoemaker
I'm no expert either....but......this post of mine will be rather long.
Another trick I played with is run the sled on the stand so the track is
free
running. While watching the tach, punch the throddle for a short time,
say
1-3 seconds. I would'nt let the track speed get much over 70-100 since
that
can't be good for the track. You'll know right away in the first second
or two.
Just be damn sure the sled's secured. What I do is leave it on the
trailer, with the ski braced still in place, raise the rear with a
(modified) car jack.
And watch where the slinging snow/ice will be going behind you.
Another trick, although not as accurate, but MORE FUN, is do a "burnt
out" on
ice, like the dragsters (funny cars) do on the summer track. My nieghbor
has
500' straight drivway, so I try that, then when it hooks up I have a
little
more fun taking off. I ran mine up to 92 mph indicate with a ground
speed about 10. Rpm showed the same as the other test. In my case
(580-EXT) was 8300 at 2400ASL, but I'm tunning for 5000+.
but, I would not do this test if you have studs.................
Just watch the tach when you do either test. This will indicate what the
primary weights are doing for you. If the clutches are working properly
I have
found the same rpm will be while on the ground from about 20-50 mph
ground speed.
Get the weights right, then mess with the secondary if you want to
change
the shifting curve. And all this is asumming your belt is in good shape
and
the motor mount/clutchs are alinged within spec. For me, the clutch
tuning is
the last thing to tinker with, after everything else is done.
After getting the jetting pretty close (better power, response) I worked
out the
clutching. The end result was very satisfying for me; at 5000-6000
altitute, in about 2 feet of powder, running uphill at a 30* angle, WOT,
I was running about 8000, with a track speed of 42 mph. Gearing 2.15
ratio.
That was climbing very good for a 136" track, IMO.
The other guys's 700 with a 144 and the 800 with a 151" track sled out
did me.
Of course I WANT a longer track, now, hee, hee.