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Shoe Spacing in Narrow Filippi Shell
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chipjoh
Nov 8, 2013, 3:47:58 PM11/8/13
to
I just purchased a used Filippi F-15 and have come to realize that the shoes are too close together for me. Has anyone tried widening the stance on these shells? Does going to a New Wave style footplate help? If you move the shoes outboard do your calves then chafe on the track?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Chip Johannessen
Nov 9, 2013, 11:53:13 AM11/9/13
to
To change the question slightly... is there an ideal spacing between shoes? Looking around the boathouse it seems to vary quite a bit, mostly due to hull width and stretcher hardware but not entirely. For me, the spacing on an erg feels pretty natural but there's not nearly enough room for that in my single. The spacing on a Pocock double I row feels fine though, too, and that's on the narrow side.
Thanks
Thanks
Carl
Nov 9, 2013, 2:59:54 PM11/9/13
to
On 09/11/2013 16:53, Chip Johannessen wrote:
> To change the question slightly... is there an ideal spacing between shoes? Looking around the boathouse it seems to vary quite a bit, mostly due to hull width and stretcher hardware but not entirely. For me, the spacing on an erg feels pretty natural but there's not nearly enough room for that in my single. The spacing on a Pocock double I row feels fine though, too, and that's on the narrow side.
>
> Thanks
>
Sculling boats have to be narrow at their widest point and narrower
> To change the question slightly... is there an ideal spacing between shoes? Looking around the boathouse it seems to vary quite a bit, mostly due to hull width and stretcher hardware but not entirely. For me, the spacing on an erg feels pretty natural but there's not nearly enough room for that in my single. The spacing on a Pocock double I row feels fine though, too, and that's on the narrow side.
>
> Thanks
>
where your feet go. If they gave you more foot space, they'd have to be
wider & would not be so fast.
Similarly, how low your feet can go is constrained by the need not to
put heels through the bottom of the boat
So foot space in a single is determined by the boat & you have to accept
& get used to this - the notion of an ideal foot spacing simply can't be
applied.
Rowing has been influenced by the spread of ergometers since roughly 30
years ago. The erg's central bar sets a minimum foot spacing for the
machine which, to heavily erg-based rowers, may suggest an artificial
standard for foot separation. However, I don't see that this accident
of design makes a case for a wider or narrower foot spacing in a boat.
Cheers -
Carl
--
Carl Douglas Racing Shells -
Fine Small-Boats/AeRoWing Low-drag Riggers/Advanced Accessories
Write: Harris Boatyard, Laleham Reach, Chertsey KT16 8RP, UK
Find: tinyurl.com/2tqujf
Email: ca...@carldouglas.co.uk Tel: +44(0)1932-570946 Fax: -563682
URLs: carldouglas.co.uk & now on Facebook @ CarlDouglasRacingShells
Charles Carroll
Nov 9, 2013, 4:23:41 PM11/9/13
to
> The erg's central bar sets a minimum foot spacing for the machine which,
> to heavily erg-based rowers, may suggest
> an artificial standard for foot separation. However, I don't
> see that this accident of design makes a case for a wider or
> narrower foot spacing in a boat.
>
Carl,
> to heavily erg-based rowers, may suggest
> an artificial standard for foot separation. However, I don't
> see that this accident of design makes a case for a wider or
> narrower foot spacing in a boat.
>
Isn’t this because you are not accustomed to a wider spread between the
shoes? Would you think differently if you had come to sculling after a year
or more of being a heavily erg-based rower? Not that there is much you can
do about it! As you have explained so clearly, there is a reason foot
separation in a shell seems slight in comparison to foot separation on an
erg.
Best advice is just get used to it! Either that, or redesign foot spacing on
an erg!
Cordially,
Charles
---
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Henry Law
Nov 9, 2013, 4:44:34 PM11/9/13
to
On 09/11/13 21:23, Charles Carroll wrote:
> redesign foot spacing on an erg!
Nah; get the genetic modification people onto modifying rower's feet. :-)
> redesign foot spacing on an erg!
--
Henry Law Manchester, England
Chip Johannessen
Nov 11, 2013, 1:08:35 PM11/11/13
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>
> Best advice is just get used to it!
Not exactly what I wanted to hear but after a few outings the narrow spacing is already feeling better, if still not ideal.
> Best advice is just get used to it!
Thanks.
Alexander Lindsay
Nov 11, 2013, 2:09:42 PM11/11/13
to
To change the topic quite a bit, I now do most of my rowing in a cox'less pair. I also have big feet (size 12 UK = 13 USA) If I set the heel height where I would like it, there is no room to move the heels sideways so I cannot steer. So I am forced to put the heels higher, which restricts my ability to reach forward. (I am old and inflexible).
I remember as a boy(1950s), steering clogs were hinged at the heel, and this problem didn't occur as there is plenty of room to move the toes sideways. Somewhere along the line (I have no memory of when, but I presume when shoes became fashionable) the pivot was moved up to the toe. The reasons for doing so are fairly clear.
Is there any reason why steering shoes could not be hinged at the heel end? It would require some sort of plate, with the shoe attached at the top and the pivot at the bottom: steering would then be by moving the foot sideways, rather than by rotating it. Has anyone tried it? Does anybody know of anyone making such a device? Or is there some problem that I have not seen? Must I go back to clogs?
Alexander Lindsay
I remember as a boy(1950s), steering clogs were hinged at the heel, and this problem didn't occur as there is plenty of room to move the toes sideways. Somewhere along the line (I have no memory of when, but I presume when shoes became fashionable) the pivot was moved up to the toe. The reasons for doing so are fairly clear.
Is there any reason why steering shoes could not be hinged at the heel end? It would require some sort of plate, with the shoe attached at the top and the pivot at the bottom: steering would then be by moving the foot sideways, rather than by rotating it. Has anyone tried it? Does anybody know of anyone making such a device? Or is there some problem that I have not seen? Must I go back to clogs?
Alexander Lindsay
Jay
Nov 11, 2013, 3:25:20 PM11/11/13
to
I've no real knowledge on this but here's my best guess as a rower/boatbuilder... By pivoting under the ball of the foot, you always load the footplate and stretcher in exactly the same place for most of the drive, however you are steering. It also allows you to have the rudder straight at the beginning and end of the drive, and steer during the drive when the balance is controlled by blades in the water.
If you pivoted at the heel, the pressure point wohld move inboard amd outboard depending on which way or how much rudder was applied. It also would be difficult to slide the plate to turn whilst pressure wss going through the ball of the foot.
I'm guessing ease of manufacture too, as adding a pivot into the footplate/stretcher is easier than creating another strongpoint off centre at the bottom of the hull.
That's my guesses, anyone got any other reasons?
If you pivoted at the heel, the pressure point wohld move inboard amd outboard depending on which way or how much rudder was applied. It also would be difficult to slide the plate to turn whilst pressure wss going through the ball of the foot.
I'm guessing ease of manufacture too, as adding a pivot into the footplate/stretcher is easier than creating another strongpoint off centre at the bottom of the hull.
That's my guesses, anyone got any other reasons?
Carl
Nov 11, 2013, 4:14:11 PM11/11/13
to
by bolt-in shoes that moved the pivot point to the ball of the foot.
It would require an additional element in the stretcher (almost every
current make of stretcher already has one redundant element - the shoe
plate) & I think that would be seen as a complication too far.
The general fuzziness of most steering systems does demand rather large
foot rotations which gives the steering heel the potential to damage the
hull in a pair.
Cheers -
Carl
--
Carl Douglas Racing Shells -
James HS
Nov 12, 2013, 7:49:09 AM11/12/13
to
I have had a design in my head for a while to introduce a coupling to the steering element to magnify the rotation - only a small foot rotation for a large cable movement ...... might try and sketch it out and try it out.
There always seems to be a huge amount of friction in the boats I steer - tight cables and tight bends in bowden cables, and fairly high friction steering end.
PLUS the inefficiency of the non CD fin :) (I am learning)
If you can't change your fin to an aerofoil then I may try to come up with a footplate design - I will 3D print one first and then see where I get to :)
As I also find that there is more room steering one way than the other, and that rowing with the instep facing inwards is harder than with it facing outwards - which means I am not putting as much effort into moving the boat!
James
There always seems to be a huge amount of friction in the boats I steer - tight cables and tight bends in bowden cables, and fairly high friction steering end.
PLUS the inefficiency of the non CD fin :) (I am learning)
If you can't change your fin to an aerofoil then I may try to come up with a footplate design - I will 3D print one first and then see where I get to :)
As I also find that there is more room steering one way than the other, and that rowing with the instep facing inwards is harder than with it facing outwards - which means I am not putting as much effort into moving the boat!
James
Jay
Nov 12, 2013, 10:54:59 AM11/12/13
to
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 12:49:09 PM UTC, James HS wrote:
>
> As I also find that there is more room steering one way than the other, and that rowing with the instep facing inwards is harder than with it facing outwards - which means I am not putting as much effort into moving the boat!
>
Our coastal pair is set up with a bias to aid steering toward bow side. I can easily, and without conferring, add a little power to pull the bow to stroke side, and then I use the extra steerage to bow side if needed. This allows stroke to just do his thing and concentrate on metronomic, identical strokes. The rudder is so big we attempt not to use it during straight pieces or the race (except in emergency situations to avoid frequent collisions). We pick a point on the horizon to keep the stern pointed toward. I mainly use the rudder if we are inland on a river with long gentle bends.
>
> As I also find that there is more room steering one way than the other, and that rowing with the instep facing inwards is harder than with it facing outwards - which means I am not putting as much effort into moving the boat!
>
Jay.
Tor Anderson
Nov 12, 2013, 6:09:11 PM11/12/13
to
I also have a Filippi F-15 (Wingboat) w/ a carbon wing rigger. Between the narrow/shallow hull, wing rigger, and seat tracks there doesn't seem to be any room to move the shoes (other than foot stretcher angle and location). I suppose all 1x's have this issue, to differing degrees.
I did notice the foot stretcher was very substantial (>3 lbs w/ H2row shoes). At some point that may get upgraded, but not this year...
Chip Johannessen
Nov 12, 2013, 7:34:34 PM11/12/13
to
That's exactly what I have, the Wingboat with carbon wing rigger. I was going to try turning the two outboard footstretcher bolts around so they point into the hull and then moving the shoes out over the bolt heads. it won't exactly be easily adjustable but I should be able to get more separation between the shoes.
are you happy with the H2's on the factory footplate?
are you happy with the H2's on the factory footplate?
James HS
Nov 13, 2013, 6:00:58 AM11/13/13
to
Lack of flexibility means that I like my feet low.
I recently saw a physio because I was getting really bad cramp (at night after a hard session. he identified that these muscles were probably working too hard and to discern this he did a simple exercise - in front of the mirror so he could see my pelvis he simply asked me to break my knees and drop down keeping my pelvis in line with my spine - everything was fin for the first few inches, and then the pelvis tilted to compensate.
Diagnosis - pelvis tilting, so the inner thigh muscles were being used to compensate and therefore 'overworking'. Prescription - work on the core.
I was not happy with the solution - no problem with core work, but strengthening the muscles IS something I already work on. So I asked him about raising my heels - we raised them 10mm (on a towel under the heels) and I was able to drop to a full squat with the hip staying perfectly in line. (Same principle that weight lifters use).
So I mocked up some wedges in Balsa wood for my next ergo session and voila - no cramp that night (and much better heel connection).
For a more permanent solution I have printed up (3D) some wedges that tart at 5mm and increase to 10mm over 120 mm and attached these to my erg and boats - and have not had cramp since (2 months). I put these UNDER the shoe as in the shoe they raise your heel outside the heel cup of the shoe.
I understand that foot stretchers used to be adjustable in angle, but not more, and these wedges have really cut my cramping- and I feel more connected to the foot stretcher.
I have also concentrated on stretching caves and worked on core strength, but the wedges gave immediate relief - and from the standing experiments, I think they allow me to be in a stronger position as I perform the 'recovery'.
Just thoughts.
James
I recently saw a physio because I was getting really bad cramp (at night after a hard session. he identified that these muscles were probably working too hard and to discern this he did a simple exercise - in front of the mirror so he could see my pelvis he simply asked me to break my knees and drop down keeping my pelvis in line with my spine - everything was fin for the first few inches, and then the pelvis tilted to compensate.
Diagnosis - pelvis tilting, so the inner thigh muscles were being used to compensate and therefore 'overworking'. Prescription - work on the core.
I was not happy with the solution - no problem with core work, but strengthening the muscles IS something I already work on. So I asked him about raising my heels - we raised them 10mm (on a towel under the heels) and I was able to drop to a full squat with the hip staying perfectly in line. (Same principle that weight lifters use).
So I mocked up some wedges in Balsa wood for my next ergo session and voila - no cramp that night (and much better heel connection).
For a more permanent solution I have printed up (3D) some wedges that tart at 5mm and increase to 10mm over 120 mm and attached these to my erg and boats - and have not had cramp since (2 months). I put these UNDER the shoe as in the shoe they raise your heel outside the heel cup of the shoe.
I understand that foot stretchers used to be adjustable in angle, but not more, and these wedges have really cut my cramping- and I feel more connected to the foot stretcher.
I have also concentrated on stretching caves and worked on core strength, but the wedges gave immediate relief - and from the standing experiments, I think they allow me to be in a stronger position as I perform the 'recovery'.
Just thoughts.
James
Tor Anderson
Nov 13, 2013, 3:29:25 PM11/13/13
to
With size 11 (mens) H2row shoes, the heels hit the toothed track on the bottom of the hull, causing the heel to rock towards the outside. As an interim fix, I put a spacer under the heel on the foot stretcher to provide a flat platform for the heels to contact.
Next, I'm going to try size 10 H2row's and see if these clear the bottom toothed track. The shoes are bolted directly to the foot stretcher, so there is no easy way to adjust them short of drilling all new holes in stretcher. A separate foot plate would make adjustment easier, but there is not much room to move the shoes anywhere, so I'll probably just leave it the way it is.
I did adjust the stretcher angle a little steeper, by drilling new holes and moving the stretcher cross bar. I like to run my stretcher as steep as I can, while still allowing my heels to remain in contact w/ my shins near vertical (at the catch). Everyones ankle flexibility is different, so this angle will vary w/ personal preference. I figure speed will follow comfort, so I focus on comfort. YMMV.
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 4:34:34 PM UTC-8, Chip Johannessen wrote:
> That's exactly what I have, the Wingboat with carbon wing rigger. I was going ...
Next, I'm going to try size 10 H2row's and see if these clear the bottom toothed track. The shoes are bolted directly to the foot stretcher, so there is no easy way to adjust them short of drilling all new holes in stretcher. A separate foot plate would make adjustment easier, but there is not much room to move the shoes anywhere, so I'll probably just leave it the way it is.
I did adjust the stretcher angle a little steeper, by drilling new holes and moving the stretcher cross bar. I like to run my stretcher as steep as I can, while still allowing my heels to remain in contact w/ my shins near vertical (at the catch). Everyones ankle flexibility is different, so this angle will vary w/ personal preference. I figure speed will follow comfort, so I focus on comfort. YMMV.
On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 4:34:34 PM UTC-8, Chip Johannessen wrote:
> That's exactly what I have, the Wingboat with carbon wing rigger. I was going ...
Carl
Nov 13, 2013, 4:38:08 PM11/13/13
to
questions:
1. Why are you wrestling with a stretcher which doesn't give you the
room you require for rake and vertical adjustment? It seems that the
wing rigger is your way.
2. So why saddle yourselves with a shell with a clunky great wing
rigger? In which respect, if any, does that wing enhance your sculling?
Cheers -
Carl
--
Carl Douglas Racing Shells -
Carl
Nov 14, 2013, 2:22:04 PM11/14/13
to
On 12/11/2013 12:49, James HS wrote:
> I have had a design in my head for a while to introduce a coupling to the steering element to magnify the rotation - only a small foot rotation for a large cable movement ...... might try and sketch it out and try it out.
>
That may work, but then you have to deal with the problem that every
> I have had a design in my head for a while to introduce a coupling to the steering element to magnify the rotation - only a small foot rotation for a large cable movement ...... might try and sketch it out and try it out.
>
tiny twitch of the foot moves the rudder rather more than you need.
> There always seems to be a huge amount of friction in the boats I steer - tight cables and tight bends in bowden cables, and fairly high friction steering end.
>
at first no result, then a bit more and too much result. How about
lubricating or replacing your Bowden cables? It's a very small cost for
a big improvement.
We were the first to introduce Bowden cable steering to this sport, (it
removes the need for re-adjusting the wires when moving stretcher
position). But we are often appalled to see how little maintenance is
then given. Recently one of our pairs came here for some TLC and found
they'd chucked away the cable sheaths and left frayed, bare wires sawing
away into the cable sockets. Doh!
> PLUS the inefficiency of the non CD fin :) (I am learning)
>
shell steering. See also:
www.carldouglas.co.uk/downloads/HyperSteer3.gif
> If you can't change your fin to an aerofoil then I may try to come up with a footplate design - I will 3D print one first and then see where I get to :)
>
to print your design, & in which material?
> As I also find that there is more room steering one way than the other, and that rowing with the instep facing inwards is harder than with it facing outwards - which means I am not putting as much effort into moving the boat!
>
> James
>
been working with klunky foot-steering systems which are never better
than rather poor. I believe we can do better &, unless James gets there
first, a better system we shall devise.
Cheers -
Carl
--
Carl Douglas Racing Shells -
Tor Anderson
Nov 14, 2013, 7:11:27 PM11/14/13
to
Dear Carl,
I think you already know the answer to these questions! :-)
Why did I choose a wing rigger boat?
1-It looks faster!
2-The wing is heavier w/ a higher CG, which is great practice for my balance.
3-The price was right!
Seriously, The foot location is workable, and otherwise the boat rows well. I do like the wider track spacing that a wing rigger affords, as I have too many scars on my calves from club boats w/ narrow tracks.
One of your boats is gathering dusk at our boathouse... perhaps the delinquent owner will see fit to pass it on to a poor Filippi owner.
Best regards,
Tor
I think you already know the answer to these questions! :-)
Why did I choose a wing rigger boat?
1-It looks faster!
2-The wing is heavier w/ a higher CG, which is great practice for my balance.
3-The price was right!
Seriously, The foot location is workable, and otherwise the boat rows well. I do like the wider track spacing that a wing rigger affords, as I have too many scars on my calves from club boats w/ narrow tracks.
One of your boats is gathering dusk at our boathouse... perhaps the delinquent owner will see fit to pass it on to a poor Filippi owner.
Best regards,
Tor
Carl
Nov 15, 2013, 7:35:02 AM11/15/13
to
On 15/11/2013 00:11, Tor Anderson wrote:
>
> On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 1:38:08 PM UTC-8, Carl wrote:
>
>> There are things in this thread which bemuse me, so I'll ask a couple of
>>
>> questions:
>>
>>
>> 1. Why are you wrestling with a stretcher which doesn't give you the
>> room you require for rake and vertical adjustment? It seems that the
>> wing rigger is your way.
>>
>
>> 2. So why saddle yourselves with a shell with a clunky great wing
>> rigger? In which respect, if any, does that wing enhance your sculling?
>>
>> Cheers -
>>
>> Carl
>>
>
> On Wednesday, November 13, 2013 1:38:08 PM UTC-8, Carl wrote:
>
>> There are things in this thread which bemuse me, so I'll ask a couple of
>>
>> questions:
>>
>>
>> 1. Why are you wrestling with a stretcher which doesn't give you the
>> room you require for rake and vertical adjustment? It seems that the
>> wing rigger is your way.
>>
>
>> 2. So why saddle yourselves with a shell with a clunky great wing
>> rigger? In which respect, if any, does that wing enhance your sculling?
>>
>> Cheers -
>>
>> Carl
>>
> Dear Carl,
>
> I think you already know the answer to these questions! :-)
>
> Why did I choose a wing rigger boat?
>
> 1-It looks faster!
If looks could kill? In my book the only thing that looks & is faster
>
> I think you already know the answer to these questions! :-)
>
> Why did I choose a wing rigger boat?
>
> 1-It looks faster!
is crossing the finish line first, but I'm not a fashionista ;)
> 2-The wing is heavier w/ a higher CG, which is great practice for my
> balance.
> 3-The price was right!
That's the cruncher :) Except that Filippis cost more than our CD-X
model.....
>
> Seriously, The foot location is workable, and otherwise the boat rows
> well. I do like the wider track spacing that a wing rigger affords,
> as I have too many scars on my calves from club boats w/ narrow
> tracks.
>
tracks. I've never understood the fashion for sharp-edged end-stops.
> One of your boats is gathering dusk at our boathouse... perhaps the
> delinquent owner will see fit to pass it on to a poor Filippi owner.
>
them off the water for now but means to return eventually? Meanwhile an
unused & valuable shell is taking up rack space that might be used by an
active sculler :(
> Best regards,
>
> Tor
And to you, Tor -
Chip Johannessen
Nov 16, 2013, 3:53:35 PM11/16/13
to
I'm not sure what year your boat is, but apparently the hole pattern for the older Adidas on Filippis matched the H2 shoes, except that the angle was different. This had the effect of pointing the heels of the H2 shoes toward each other, to the point they were hitting/overlapping at the toothed rail that supports the bottom of the stretcher. If that is the situation, it simply wasn't meant to be.
A solution that some people use to widen the stance is to use a footplate with only center holes (e.g. Wintech lightweight, per Don at H2). You add a second bolt to the Footstretcher right below the middle one. Don at H2 says this setup is sufficiently rigid, I'm thinking I'll try it and see.
Best
A solution that some people use to widen the stance is to use a footplate with only center holes (e.g. Wintech lightweight, per Don at H2). You add a second bolt to the Footstretcher right below the middle one. Don at H2 says this setup is sufficiently rigid, I'm thinking I'll try it and see.
Best
2potsin...@gmail.com
Nov 17, 2013, 6:32:51 PM11/17/13
to
Chip J wrote:
> A solution that some people use to widen the stance is to use a footplate with only center holes (e.g. Wintech lightweight, per Don at H2). You add a second bolt to the Footstretcher right below the middle one. Don at H2 says this setup is sufficiently rigid, I'm thinking I'll try it and see.
>
>
>
> Best
I would recommend against a footplate with only center holes. I tried that using a commercially available metal shoeplate (brand name intentionally not stated) in my single. The only available shoeplates were for 4s and 8s, and even the smallest were too wide to fit the footboard of my single, so I cut off the ends including the outer mounting holes and used just the center holes. It took about 2 years, but there was enough flex in the shoeplate as my body weight hit the finish and pulled up on my feet for the recovery that the aluminum fractured from fatigue right across the mounting bolt holes. I got another metal shoe plate and cut the ends off again, but for this one I drilled a hole right in the center of the 4-hole pattern of shoe screws (with a matching hole in the footboard )and used one of those square flat top bolts for rigging or sliding in the slot for the footboard to hold the metal shoe plate on the footboard. You will have to put this bolt through its hole before you mount the shoes so that the square flat head is trapped by the shoe. There will be enough friction between the shoe sole and the bolt head that you will be able to tighten the wing nut from underneath without the bolt turning in place. The flat head of the bolt is does not protrude enough to be able to feel it with the balls of your feet through the sole of the shoe.
> A solution that some people use to widen the stance is to use a footplate with only center holes (e.g. Wintech lightweight, per Don at H2). You add a second bolt to the Footstretcher right below the middle one. Don at H2 says this setup is sufficiently rigid, I'm thinking I'll try it and see.
>
>
>
> Best
Chip Johannessen
Nov 17, 2013, 6:59:54 PM11/17/13
to
Damn. Maybe I won't try it then.
Can I ask why you drilled new holes under the shoe instead of just using the existing holes along the outboard edges of the footplate?
Can I ask why you drilled new holes under the shoe instead of just using the existing holes along the outboard edges of the footplate?
2potsin...@gmail.com
Nov 18, 2013, 8:57:54 AM11/18/13
to
The footwell (and consequently the footboard) in my single (a Peinert) is too narrow to accommodate the smallest size of the metal shoeplate. I had to cut the ends off right where that row of holes is. In my boat, there is no extra room between the pinky toe side of the shoes and the side of the boat, and thus there is no room for a new hole and bolt. So I put it right under the shoe and used a bolt type that would not be felt through the shoe. I considered countersinking a standard flathead machine bolt, but once the shoe is installed on top of the head of the bolt, there is no way to hold the bolt from turning while tightening the nut on the underside. The flat squarehead rigger bolt has enough friction with the shoe sole that I could snug the nut tight against the footboard.
cheers
Dick White, in Virginia USA where the water is now too cold to row...
cheers
Dick White, in Virginia USA where the water is now too cold to row...
Carl
Nov 18, 2013, 7:48:59 PM11/18/13
to
a vertical row of holes down its middle, is bolted there & not secured
on either side. 2 halves held together by stamp-like perforations must
bend & even fracture.
Still, I've never understood the presumed need for a shoe plate anyway.
It's just one extra component. We fix the shoes straight to a robust
stretcher board which attaches by a central bolt to the bar & can then
move to change the shoe height and/or rake independently. Simple, & no
need for the shoe plate or its side bolts.
Cheers -
Henning Lippke
Nov 30, 2013, 11:04:18 AM11/30/13
to
Am 19.11.2013 01:48, schrieb Carl:
> We fix the shoes straight to a robust
> stretcher board which attaches by a central bolt to the bar & can then
> move to change the shoe height and/or rake independently. Simple, & no
> need for the shoe plate or its side bolts.
So a very handy option when you want personal shoes, which also avoids
stepping into boats with muddy shoes.
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