I don't have good 'drills' for this, and I'll reiterate that I think learning
to catch correctly is very difficult, I've seen few in the sport that do it
as well as Mahe demonstrates on that one stroke snippet.
I'll also repeat that when we learn to improve something, quite often
as teachers we'll over exaggerate, simplify, do something whacky even, in
order to get the student to even do something different than they are used
to. For many things like teaching finishes, drive mechanics, releases, hand positioning, you can over emphasize and exaggerate and the boat or crew will
respond positively, IE give positive feedback to doing it.
Not so with the catch. With catching, we are almost all universally late. So
what do we do as coaches? We exaggerate by getting them to catch early.
The result of that NEVER gives positive feedback by the boat! You need a coach or a training partner with an eye to encourage that behavior while you're figuring out the timing.
I think I have an old RSR post about how to teach the catch.
The basic approach that I think is best is that you learn the sensation
at a very slow pace, cutting out all other factors. Get a double, a partner,
and just do static catches with boat stopped. go from half-slide to 7/8 slide
(not even full), only a travel of a few inches really, with eyes closed and
see if you can time the blade entry to when you stop your slide. This drill
should be done w/ no drive, that's why it's static catches. The boat's not moving so you don't have to worry about chattering blades on the catch.
Prepare, keep blades square, slide up, catch, stop. extract blades and repeat:
1. Prepare. (get all the body angle and arm extension that you will use at the catch/initial drive), be set up and prepared at 1/2 slide
2. keep blades square. keep feathering complications out for now. Make sure grip is loose, you're hooking handle - flat wrist.
3. slide up. the body position at "prepare" should be maintained exactly as you roll to stern except for the arc of the handle, whether sweep or scull.
Thus, essentially the only thing moving is the butt.
4. catch. lift the hands(more on this later) while hips are moving, when the blade enters, stop the hips. With eyes closed, you want to emphasize the sensation that the HIPS are putting the blades in the water, not the hands, focus on two things, where the hips/wheels stop, and the feel of the blade entry. They should be simultaneous. Eyes closed REALLY helps feel this, and
it is a nice tool to use later, close your eyes a few strokes during steady state to note catch vs /hip-wheel timing.
5. extract. No pulling at all, all motion should be to stern to learn that catch timing. take the blades out, re-position to 1., go again. You are in a vulnerable position, every 4-5 strokes, shake it out and twist and turn so that you aren't stressing your back while holding these positions.
On hand lift: On the catch, you aren't forcing/lifting the handle, what you are doing is controlling it's drop! Start at half slide and roll to the catch
w/ sq blade and just let go of your oars (don't be in a single). Note how quickly the blade drops. Yes it will spin and not catch, but the blade drop
will be very quick. This is why the emphasis on relaxation of the hands in
"preparation" above, you want to lift the hands to allow the blade to drop but light finger contact with the blade prevents it from spinning out of control.
So you are lifting the hands quickly, but not forcing the handle, light grip.
Next steps:
add drive to the short stroke. I go in a tweener stage. After the athlete
is catching well statically, then have them do "air strokes" in the exact
same range. Careful, as there's a tendency to lengthen and drive PAST half slide which messes with the preparation.
Eyes closed, go through 1,2,3, but not 5/6. at 4, they change direction and
push legs lightly to get back to 1/2 slide.
IMAGINE where the catch should be in that drill, drop it in with your minds
eye.
Then go to add the catch and add drive at 5, instead of extract.
For the first ten strokes of it, I like to stop the boat, prepare again, and do that front end stroke cycle, one stroke at a time. If you try to release
square before half slide, there tends to be a lengthening, you lose the preparation, the catches suffer.
I see a lot of crews do this front end work like this, but I don't see them
getting the catches in!
This doesn't answer your question on how to get the blade to 'seek the water' as Mahe does. When you go through those steps of learning in a static boat like that, you'll be able to row on the square very close to the water and will learn that it makes for quicker easier catches to be close.
My observation has been once an athlete learns the hip/blade entry connection and what that's supposed to feel like and how to do it, even if they don't get it right, the "skying" motion that so many of us do tends to go away.
The other aspect of "skying" starts at the finish. I assert that whatever the highest blade height you wish to have on the recovery (and that can vary by conditions), should happen at the release. If you never teach a rower to finish and release, they will simply row the oar out to half blade and
feather, holding the boat up with the blade momentarily where it's most vulnerable, then push down later in the recover to get the oar off the water.
In a sweep boat, this hand motion wreaks havoc with relaxation and balance,
as one person is pushing the handle down when someone on the other side isn't.
It's not quite so deadly in a sculling boat, as the rower pushing down
at mid stroke will do so symmetrically.
My observation with lots of new scullers is that once they push the hands
down in mid recovery to get their oars off the water, they'll tend to keep going down farther than needed to square the blade.
I teach dropped wrist recovery, fingers lightly on top, to square the blade you lightly squeeze and initiate the turn of the handle by straightening/lifting the wrist, then let go and allow the oar to settle itself into the flat lock.
position. Feathering in this fashion is consistent with lifting the hands to the catch, and it's during this feathering/lifting motion that you find the
ideal blade height for a quick and effective catch.
This motion can vary, elite rowers should be able to feather later in a head wind and still get effective catches, but the best catches I've seen, the blade is square before the drop.