John
One of many things I teach involving relaxation is releasing. This is
a repeat, but I won't dredge up old posts.
Preliminary: Make sure your hand grip is relaxed and correct. You
should be hooking the handles with flat wrists on the drive, do NOT
grasp the handles on the drive. drop the wrists and open the hands
to feather so that your fingers are on top of the handle, and again,
they are riding on, not grasping the handle. Thumbs on the end.
Tight grip means tight forearms, which makes relaxation difficult. I
teach, 'squeeze/relax' where you squeeze to begin the feather and
allow the collar to seat itself in the sill of the oarlock, rather
than setting it there.
If you got that:
What I tell scullers after they've been out for a while in the process
of learning, particularly rowing a single, is to learn to release
high, relax, and let the boat fall.
A drill is simply to pause at the release for 5-10 strokes at a time,
where the blades are an exaggerated height at the release. Over time,
it's not necessary to always release high, but you are overcoming a
tendency the boat is teaching you, to balance the boat with blades on
the water right at the critical release
part of the stroke.
Pause, allow boat to drop to one side, and relax everything. Then
recover without attempting to do much to right the boat on the
recovery. The boat should drop, depending on the hull. Don't know
your boat, but an Aero will be more stable, a racing single will drop
for all of us at some point unless you are beautiful.
Most scullers who've sculled around 100-500 miles have learned to be
able to apply somewhat even pressure so that the boat goes straight as
a rule, at least for 30 strokes at a time. This means the finishes
are fairly even, even if they typically wash out.
What will happen for you, is that one stroke out of X, your finishes
will very closely match each other, such that when you release at same
time and high, then relax, the boat will run out for some time before
it begins to falter. If your pause is a second or two, there could be
some strokes where you don't hit the water on either side, and are
relaxed.
There is a tremendous amount of positive reinforcement for that, one
of those fun things to teach that ppl think you might know WTF you are
talking about.
When you have tight forearms, when you are using your blades as
training wheels, you will never really know when your finishes have
matched each other!
Caution. This won't have a lot of effect on boat speed. this doesn't
make you faster per se, but it's a step in the direction of good
finishes which WILL make you faster. Your rowing becomes more
efficient with this, so while you won't go faster, success at this
will allow you to sustain a speed better over distance.
It will make your rows more pleasureable and I include this drill for
everybody whether they wish to compete or if they scull out to watch
the pinnipeds.