Hi Marc -
Much interesting stuff in your adjacent thread - thank you - but as
someone who does a fair bit of car-topping I 'd like to make a few
slightly contrary points.
1. I would always carry a boat upside-down. There are usually
stronger, safer contact points along the sheerlines (deck edges) & less
chance of the boat rotating in slings.
2. If inverted, the boat can't collect water on a rainiy day, or dirt.
3. Webbing straps have a couple of snags. Folk tend sometimes to
overtighten them - because they can - which is not great for the boat.
If they have diecast buckles and someone drives over them (as does
happen) those buckles can fracture. And the straps can be quite hard,
which can mark the surface, and if they pick up dirt they hold it in the
weave which can really scratch the hull.
4. If the bars are too springy, if possible move the rack to the side
where their deflection will be much reduced.
5. I would never use and elastic tie-down for the ends of the boat.
The purpose of the additional tie-down is to prevent self-sustaining or
amplification of the pitching moment of the racked boat (see springy
roof bars), which it does by preventing the upwards bounce For that you
need a rope, not an elastic cord. Further: never take the end tie-downs
to the ends of the boat - it's not necessary, while extending beyond the
vehicle presents an unexpected hazard to anyone passing beneath the boat
(as they do!) & thus a danger to the boat. And it maximises the bending
stress in the boat.
That said, I can't speak too highly of your work on RowSafe.
Carl Douglas Racing Shells -
Fine Small-Boats/AeRoWing Low-drag Riggers/Advanced Accessories
Write: Harris Boatyard, Laleham Reach, Chertsey KT16 8RP, UK
& now on Facebook @ CarlDouglasRacingShells