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Best repair method for paint chips?
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Stewie
May 12, 2016, 5:42:29 PM5/12/16
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Hi all
I've been asked to do some simple repair work at my club, which I am happy to do, but my previous experience has mostly been mechanical, leaving wet repairs to others.
A number of shells have the typical paint "chips" in the bottom of the hull, where other boats' riggers have scraped past while racking and unracking. This has exposed the kevlar(?) cloth-like material below.
What's the best repair method for this? I was thinking of sanding off the damaged areas of paint and using rattle-can paint and a clear coat to finish (in thin layers, of course). Does this sound about right, or is there a better way? I'm aware that two-part paint using compressed air will give a better finish but we don't have a compressor or paint gun.
[On a related note, what's the Pantone code for "Janousek White"?]
Cheers
Stewie
I've been asked to do some simple repair work at my club, which I am happy to do, but my previous experience has mostly been mechanical, leaving wet repairs to others.
A number of shells have the typical paint "chips" in the bottom of the hull, where other boats' riggers have scraped past while racking and unracking. This has exposed the kevlar(?) cloth-like material below.
What's the best repair method for this? I was thinking of sanding off the damaged areas of paint and using rattle-can paint and a clear coat to finish (in thin layers, of course). Does this sound about right, or is there a better way? I'm aware that two-part paint using compressed air will give a better finish but we don't have a compressor or paint gun.
[On a related note, what's the Pantone code for "Janousek White"?]
Cheers
Stewie
marko....@gmail.com
May 12, 2016, 5:56:01 PM5/12/16
to
Some good info posted a while ago on this (by SteveS):
The University of California rigger, Mike Fennelly, has posted a brace of videos that form instructions for how to fix small dings and holes in rowing shells--emphasis on the "small".
These instructions are distinguished by their simplicity yet completeness.
-Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZOtC2OV9FA
-Part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krFN0ALEMVE
He mentions "bondo" frequently. In the USA, "bondo" has become a generic name for automative body filler. It is also a brand of body filler, and that is what Mike is referring to in this case, though any good filler will work fine. See http://bondo.com
The 14 oz. can costs $7.84 on Amazon. Any automotive body filler will do the job.
The University of California rigger, Mike Fennelly, has posted a brace of videos that form instructions for how to fix small dings and holes in rowing shells--emphasis on the "small".
These instructions are distinguished by their simplicity yet completeness.
-Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZOtC2OV9FA
-Part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krFN0ALEMVE
He mentions "bondo" frequently. In the USA, "bondo" has become a generic name for automative body filler. It is also a brand of body filler, and that is what Mike is referring to in this case, though any good filler will work fine. See http://bondo.com
The 14 oz. can costs $7.84 on Amazon. Any automotive body filler will do the job.
James HS
May 13, 2016, 2:35:35 AM5/13/16
to
Personally I would flare out the area if damage with wet and dry paper (600 grit) then fill slightly proud with a white gelcoat filler and sand this back with papers going through the grits to 1000 and then polish.
Plastic padding make a good gelcoat filler and if you line up all your repairs you can work along them and be done start to finish in a couple of hours
Result looks good and future repairs are not full of bondo and no paint spraying!
If it is a paint scrape and not a chip then go with the paint method.
James
Plastic padding make a good gelcoat filler and if you line up all your repairs you can work along them and be done start to finish in a couple of hours
Result looks good and future repairs are not full of bondo and no paint spraying!
If it is a paint scrape and not a chip then go with the paint method.
James
andymck...@gmail.com
May 13, 2016, 5:24:56 AM5/13/16
to
Andy
rolyb...@googlemail.com
May 16, 2016, 4:16:54 PM5/16/16
to
Stewie,
I'd defer to others on what is the best method, but if you are looking to make several old boats with lots of dings look presentable rather than pristine in a shortish session I'd say:
1 make sure the holes are dry and pick away any loose bits
2 mix a blob of white gelcoat filler on a small board so you can manipulate it easily (enough that you can judge the hardener quantity, not so much that you can't use it in time)
3 apply as quickly as you can with a sufficiently stiff and straight edged, but not too stiff piece of plastic (an old credit card), wider than the hole so you can just smooth it over in one pass
4 when you start having to go back to fill a small hole the gelcoat is getting too set
5 walk away, or you will fiddle and make them worse
Roly
I'd defer to others on what is the best method, but if you are looking to make several old boats with lots of dings look presentable rather than pristine in a shortish session I'd say:
1 make sure the holes are dry and pick away any loose bits
2 mix a blob of white gelcoat filler on a small board so you can manipulate it easily (enough that you can judge the hardener quantity, not so much that you can't use it in time)
3 apply as quickly as you can with a sufficiently stiff and straight edged, but not too stiff piece of plastic (an old credit card), wider than the hole so you can just smooth it over in one pass
4 when you start having to go back to fill a small hole the gelcoat is getting too set
5 walk away, or you will fiddle and make them worse
Roly
James HS
May 17, 2016, 4:26:05 AM5/17/16
to
And just to add - the point about the gelcoat filler from Plastic Padding is that it has wax in the mixture - which means no need to starve ot of oxygen etc and put a mylar layer on top - it will properly set up with no tackiness and is sandable without clogging the sheet and polishable - this means (on a white boat) you do not have to paint - i.e. you are into a single product and single process.
Do get the gunk off first though - often the cuaser of the damage has put sticky tape over the hole and acetone or some other solvent will clean this off nicely. If it is more resistant then a bit of styrene can also cut through most things, but be careful - as it can strip some of the boat off too :)
Do get the gunk off first though - often the cuaser of the damage has put sticky tape over the hole and acetone or some other solvent will clean this off nicely. If it is more resistant then a bit of styrene can also cut through most things, but be careful - as it can strip some of the boat off too :)
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