Charging Battery in JetSki ???
MR-HPT
place. Charge it very slowly avery mount and you will be ok. Do not forget to
add distill water.
George http://www.hpt-sport.com
Robert Willis wrote:
> I am looking for suggestions as to whether or not it is OK to slow charge a
> jetski battery during the off-season while it is in the ski and connected.
>
> Regards
> Robert Willis
> EMAIL: Robert...@worldnet.att.net
Robert Willis
Robert Willis
This is what I was planning on doing, however my initial look into the
SeaDoo GTX-RFI indicates that the battery may be a bear to get out.... I am
off to the store to get a low current battery charger since all I have
around the house is my trusty 10 Amp Sears Automatic Charger.
Regards
Robert Willis
EMAIL: Robert...@worldnet.att.net
MR-HPT wrote in message <369AD2F5...@apex.net>...
Larry
Robert, go down to WalMart and look on the "battery island" in the car
department. On that island you'll find a bubble-packed little 6-sided
black brick from Schumacher for $28. It has a red light and a green
light on the front of it and nothing else. It's made of epoxy. There
is a 4", 3-pronged AC power plug sticking out of one end and a red and
green DC wire with terminal rings on them. It comes with a 2-piece
metal mounting bracket for permanent installation....
This brick puts out the PERFECT 1.5A to charge your ski battery. It's
not a cheap, no-name charger, however.... When the ski battery
reaches 14V, a full charge, the red LED lights up telling you the
battery is "charged" and stays lit. This ALSO shuts down the charging
current transistor so it will NEVER boil your battery! If the battery
drops to 13V, the red light goes out and it brings the battery back
up. I'm running the same charger on my Sea Rayder that I used to
charge my '93 Yam VXR 650 and the '97 Gross Pig 1200 barge. It's been
in salt all its life. Completely sealed in epoxy, it's completely
waterproof and you can leave it in the ski permanently! Bring the ski
home, plug it in....easy?
Now the neat side effect.....
The red "Charged" LED also works WHEN YOUR SKI IS CHARGING! Having no
indicator, whatsoever, you never know when a ski is charging or not.
This little brick also fixes this problem. If your ski is charging
its battery properly, the red LED will be "lit" for about an hour
after you shut the ski down! It's a great little "charging system"
indicator for a PWC....(c;
WalMart....around $30....Automatic shutoff!
Larry
On 12 Jan 1999 03:06:51 GMT, "Robert Willis"
<Robert...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>I am looking for suggestions as to whether or not it is OK to slow charge a
>jetski battery during the off-season while it is in the ski and connected.
>
>
Johnny K
I think Wal-Mart and Schumacher owe you a royalty check! LOL I agree, it
is a great product that does the trick. I use it to maintain three ski
batteries and a lawn tractor one as well.
Johnny K
Larry <fas...@new.isp> wrote in article
<369ae45e...@news.nations.net>...
George Jefferson
:is a great product that does the trick. I use it to maintain three ski
:batteries and a lawn tractor one as well.
I have to be a bit of a detrator here. I dont know if larry got an early
model that was well sealed or what, but mine failed due
to corrosion, it had not even been installed, but ocasionally left in
the weather in the yard. I pulled it appart, it had clearly
leaked all around the edge of the plastic case.
Great charger, but if you expect it to be waterproof, I'd reccomend
adding extra sealant all around the edge and where the leads
go through the case.
--
george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
to reply simply press "r"
-- I hate editing addresses more than I hate the spam!
FGP
I always disconnect it....no fun....thanks in advance.....FGP
Robert Willis
FGP wrote in message <369BFF42...@herald.infi.net>...
Dr. Jett Ski
money. Our price is $46.74 on them. Won't overcharge your battery and I've
left the battery in the boat many many many times without hurting anything.
--
The Doc.
drje...@hotmail.com
J&M Watersports Company
http://www.southtx.quik.com/jmcint/jmcint/
(888) 566-0187
Robert Willis <Robert...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in article
<77h4ru$p...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net>...
----------
WHardy1902
>charged without being disconnected from the terminals?
You don't necessarily have to remove the battery although it is recomended. At
the very least, unhook one of the battery cables before you hook up the battery
charger. Although chargers are producing primarily DC voltage, they are putting
out some AC as well as "noise" The expensive electronics on your Ski don't like
this.
Not Harding
It's Hardy
As in Hardy Har Har
George Jefferson
:out some AC as well as "noise" The expensive electronics on your Ski don't like
:this.
sound thinking, but practically speaking any reasonable charger is
going to be cleaner than the built in built in charging system I think.
Stingray
The Schumaker that Wallmart sells and Larry likes is a
great on board unit . You can see how I installed it in the Gps
instalation story in the latest PWC Magazine . I have got both of my
skiis and my pick up truck set up with the on board charger and I can
say that they really work great .
Stingray
On 13 Jan 1999 15:02:14 GMT, geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu ( George
George Jefferson
: The Schumaker that Wallmart sells and Larry likes is a
this is exactly what I have that died of a corroded circuit board.
Either I got a defective unit or they cheapened the design.
Larry
Pig 1200 permanently and permanently connected the battery to them.
It works just fine. Pull the seat and run a drop cord into the
3-prong AC plug when you get home and just plug the ski in. The whole
thing doesn't weigh as much as your wetsuit so it won't slow the ski
down by more than 10mph. Just DO IT! It works really great and
you'll never have a dead ski battery, even on the ones where the
damned computers run the battery down all week just sitting
there....(c;
Larry
On 13 Jan 1999 03:45:02 GMT, "Robert Willis"
<Robert...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
>------=_NextPart_000_02EF_01BE3E74.456C3380
>Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
>Thanks for the tip on looking a Wal-Mart's !! I was headed towards the =
>marine store for the very same charger. Still waiting to here about the =
>thoughts of leaving the battery connected and in the ski for charging. =
>The service manual recommends removing the battery for off-season =
>charging.
>
>Regards
>Robert Willis
>EMAIL: Robert...@worldnet.att.net
> FGP wrote in message <369BFF42...@herald.infi.net>...
> Well for those of us without the Schumacher charger.....can the =
>battery be charged without being disconnected from the terminals?=20
> I always disconnect it....no fun....thanks in advance.....FGP=20
> George Jefferson wrote:=20
>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_02EF_01BE3E74.456C3380
>Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
><HTML>
><HEAD>
>
><META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
>http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
>Transitional//EN">
><META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1700"' name=3DGENERATOR>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks for the tip on looking a Wal-Mart's !! I was =
>headed=20
>towards the marine store for the very same charger. Still waiting to =
>here about=20
>the thoughts of leaving the battery connected and in the ski for =
>charging. The=20
>service manual recommends removing the battery for off-season=20
>charging.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards<BR>Robert Willis<BR>EMAIL: =
><A=20
>href=3D"mailto:Robert...@worldnet.att.net">Robert...@worldnet.att=
>.net</A></FONT></DIV>
><BLOCKQUOTE=20
>style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
>5px">
> <DIV>FGP<FPR...@HERALD.INFI.NET> wrote in message <<A=20
> =
>href=3D"mailto:369BFF42...@herald.infi.net">369BFF42.6C906ACE@heral=
>d.infi.net</A>>...</DIV>Well=20
> for those of us without the Schumacher charger.....can the battery =
>be=20
> charged <B>without </B>being disconnected from the terminals? <BR>I =
>always=20
> disconnect it....no fun....thanks in advance.....FGP <BR>George =
>Jefferson=20
> wrote:=20
> <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE =3D =
>CITE> </BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>
>------=_NextPart_000_02EF_01BE3E74.456C3380--
>
Larry
wrote:
>>Well for those of us without the Schumacher charger.....can the battery be
>>charged without being disconnected from the terminals?
>
>You don't necessarily have to remove the battery although it is recomended. At
>the very least, unhook one of the battery cables before you hook up the battery
>charger. Although chargers are producing primarily DC voltage, they are putting
>out some AC as well as "noise" The expensive electronics on your Ski don't like
>this.
>
>
>Not Harding
>It's Hardy
>As in Hardy Har Har
Totally unnecessary. That little 1.5A charger pulsing a ski battery
couldn't vary the voltage of that battery (pulse) more than .01v! I
suppose if the battery had an open cell, the radio might hummmmmm.>(c;
Wonder where this "remove the battery" BS started?? Open circuit, the
automatic shutoff charger will NEVER go over 14v....a full battery.
Hell, this little charger doesn't put out ANYTHING unless it senses a
battery voltage across it's wires! It's ELECTRONIC, not 2 diodes and
a transformer!
Larry....just plug it in!
Larry
wrote:
>George ,
> The Schumaker that Wallmart sells and Larry likes is a
>great on board unit . You can see how I installed it in the Gps
>instalation story in the latest PWC Magazine . I have got both of my
>skiis and my pick up truck set up with the on board charger and I can
>say that they really work great .
> Stingray
>
You DID give me proper credit, didn't you?...(c;
Larry.
Larry
Jefferson ) wrote:
>:George ,
>: The Schumaker that Wallmart sells and Larry likes is a
>
>this is exactly what I have that died of a corroded circuit board.
>Either I got a defective unit or they cheapened the design.
>--
>george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
>to reply simply press "r"
> -- I hate editing addresses more than I hate the spam!
>
Did you contact Schumacher? They'll probably send you a free unit.
Larry
Faster1200
>You DID give me proper credit, didn't you?...(c;
>Larry.
>
Larry, i took your advice last year and bought one of these units, best thing i
could have done to preserve my battery over the winter and keep it tip top
shape...........its humming as we speak!!!!
thanks again....dan
WHardy1902
>going to be cleaner than the built in built in charging system I think.
>
Not so George,
The alternator on the ski is a three phase alternator. The final output then
rectified is fairly clean compared to a battery charger which is single phase.
WHardy1902
>wrote:
>
>>>Well for those of us without the Schumacher charger.....can the battery be
>>>charged without being disconnected from the terminals?
>>
>>You don't necessarily have to remove the battery although it is recomended.
>At
>>the very least, unhook one of the battery cables before you hook up the
>battery
>>charger. Although chargers are producing primarily DC voltage, they are
>putting
>>out some AC as well as "noise" The expensive electronics on your Ski don't
>like
>>this.
>>
>>
>>It's Hardy
>>As in Hardy Har Har
>
>
>couldn't vary the voltage of that battery (pulse) more than .01v! I
>suppose if the battery had an open cell, the radio might hummmmmm.>(c;
>Wonder where this "remove the battery" BS started??
Try hooking one up backwards sometime. Think that only happens to rookies? My
dad fried a computer for me by doing just that and he was a first class
mechanic for 42 years. The diodes and chip in the ignition box can be fried by
static off of your clothes.
Open circuit, the
>automatic shutoff charger will NEVER go over 14v....a full battery.
>Hell, this little charger doesn't put out ANYTHING unless it senses a
>battery voltage across it's wires! It's ELECTRONIC, not 2 diodes and
>a transformer!
But then the original poster didn't say he had one of these super duper
automatic shutoff chargers, most of us have a simple trickle charger with a
transformer, 2 diodes and,, oh yeah, you forgot the capacitors. Btw The
capacitor can store enuf to cause a surge, 'specially if the battery is dead.
>Larry....just plug it in!
>
Sure, go ahead, i like the smell of smoking silicon too. As long as it's
someone elses.
Stingray
Well your name is not mentioned in the story but I will admit
that you was the one who suggested the charger to me . Also it was
John Hill that proded me in to giving accurate gas millage info on my
XL 1200 so he can take credit for making me mount the GPS . Did you
read the story Larry ? The mag even had a picture of the charger .
Stingray
On Thu, 14 Jan 1999 03:37:12 GMT, fas...@new.isp (Larry) wrote:
>On Wed, 13 Jan 1999 18:09:49 GMT, Stin...@nwonline.net (Stingray)
>wrote:
>
>>George ,
>> The Schumaker that Wallmart sells and Larry likes is a
>>great on board unit . You can see how I installed it in the Gps
>>instalation story in the latest PWC Magazine . I have got both of my
>>skiis and my pick up truck set up with the on board charger and I can
>>say that they really work great .
>> Stingray
>>
>
George Jefferson
actually i didn't think of that. It *was* about 2 years old, and
I had to cut it open to see what was up.
(I am intending to buy another one by the way, I really do like the
way it works.)
--
george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
to reply simply press "r"
George Jefferson
:Not so George,
:The alternator on the ski is a three phase alternator. The final output then
:rectified is fairly clean compared to a battery charger which is single phase.
interesting, I suppose my sea doo is 'two phase' (single coil with a
grounded center tap). But they are in any case varying frequency and in a
generally noisy environment with the ignition going. I 'hope'
the electronics are farily robust (as good as car systems anyway)
Larry
>>
>>You DID give me proper credit, didn't you?...(c;
>>Larry.
>>
>
>Larry, i took your advice last year and bought one of these units, best thing i
>could have done to preserve my battery over the winter and keep it tip top
>shape...........its humming as we speak!!!!
> thanks again....dan
Mine runs continuously in the Sea Rayder. It's the same unit that was
in the VXR 650 and the Gross Pig.
Larry...No, the Gross Pig DIDN'T run any faster after putting the
charger in it...9c:)
Larry
tell him YOU put it there! I'm not kidding. WallyWorld may do
something really nice for you....try it!
Larry
On Thu, 14 Jan 1999 05:46:30 GMT, Stin...@nwonline.net (Stingray)
wrote:
Larry
wrote:
>>sound thinking, but practically speaking any reasonable charger is
>>going to be cleaner than the built in built in charging system I think.
>>
>>--
>>george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
>>to reply simply press "r"
>
>
>Not so George,
>The alternator on the ski is a three phase alternator. The final output then
>rectified is fairly clean compared to a battery charger which is single phase.
>
>
>Not Harding
>It's Hardy
>As in Hardy Har Har
Ok, I can't STAND it! If a battery charger, especially this LITTLE
battery charger, causes any HUM across your ski battery, or ANY
battery it was designed to charge....THE BATTERY HAS A DEAD CELL IN
IT!! Take a GOOD battery. Try to put 16V across it....YOU CAN'T! It
will charge CURRENT like hell but the voltage across the 6 cells is
fairly CONSTANT! (Don't actually do this as it will boil the battery!
I don't wanna hear about it blowing someone's battery tomorrow.)
There is a 10A automatic shutoff $42 Schumaker charger floating two
130AH deep-cycle boat batteries under my desk. It hums because some
idiot makes them out of magnetic steel cases. However, there is NO
HUM at all on the $6K in ham radio equipment that the batteries
power....
IF there is an open cell in the battery....a "dead cell", THEN the
charger's peak output voltage will show up on PEAKS of the rectified
AC across the terminals. It's only about 18-19V peak. It shouldn't
blow any 14V electronics if the electronics is designed to run off a
battery/alternator. What do you think would happen if the crappy BOAT
ALTERNATOR's peak voltage on a dead battery cell hit it??
Where DO these stories start?? Anyone got a penny taped to their boat
battery??
Larry...
Larry
wrote:
>
>But then the original poster didn't say he had one of these super duper
>automatic shutoff chargers, most of us have a simple trickle charger with a
>transformer, 2 diodes and,, oh yeah, you forgot the capacitors. Btw The
>capacitor can store enuf to cause a surge, 'specially if the battery is dead.
There isn't any capacitor. It isn't necessary. The BATTERY is a HUGE
capacitor (as far as filtering the hum). The effect of no battery or
open battery in the circuit would be pulsating DC with a peak of about
18V. What peak voltage do you think the ski's cheap charger would
provide. It's not "regulated" either! The ski electronics must be
designed to handle way more than 14V...in case the battery comes loose
while you're RIDING it.
>
>Sure, go ahead, i like the smell of smoking silicon too. As long as it's
>someone elses.
>
Try not to hook the battery up backwards when you put it back in,
ok?...(c;
Larry
WHardy1902
two bit battery charger. Why the comparison? Because the electronic fuel
injection, electronic ignition, electronic information center, electronic
security lanyard are all based on DIGITAL electronics, much like a laptop and
they do not do well hooked up to a noisy spiky power supply, especially one
intended only for charging an automotive battery. Now hooked up to a fully
charged and functional battery, the noise might be dampened to an acceptable
level. But why charge a fully charged battery?
Now hook this two bit wonder to a dead battery, make you feel better? Not
necessarily. If the battery is just run down, It will still provide a dampening
effect(like a big capacitor). If the battery has a broken post or other
internal connector,or if even the battery post is dirty, then the electronics
of the ski are getting the brunt of the noise/spikes/polarity fluctuation
that's present in any battery charger. Plug the lanyard in to check your fuel
level and you could damage some expensive electronics.
Why risk it if all it takes to isolate them (the electronics) is to remove one
battery lead. The original poster questioned whether it was necessary to remove
the whole battery. That job can be a pain in the a$$ and it is not necessary.
If you enjoy the smell of smoking silicon, then do it any way you damn well
please. Just don't slam the manufacturer with a bogus warranty claim when it
goes sour.
Larry
wrote:
>>
>So from your diatribe I take it you feel it safe to power your laptop from your
>two bit battery charger. Why the comparison? Because the electronic fuel
>injection, electronic ignition, electronic information center, electronic
>security lanyard are all based on DIGITAL electronics, much like a laptop and
>they do not do well hooked up to a noisy spiky power supply, especially one
>intended only for charging an automotive battery. Now hooked up to a fully
>charged and functional battery, the noise might be dampened to an acceptable
>level. But why charge a fully charged battery?
No, changing the words around to start a fight isn't what I said. I
said it's ok to power ANYTHING that is made to run on a 12V car/boat
power system with the charger attached TO THE BATTERY! MY ham radio
system has several computers in the radios, in the packet node
controller, the 386 notebook I used for packet radio comms, etc. None
of these computers have ever even blinked running off a charging
battery being charged by a Schumaker 2/10A Automatic Shutoff Charger I
paid $42 for at WalMart. No speakers hum, uncontrollably. No
computers smoke. No displays on the 4 radios it powers goes crazy. I
have many friends powering their ham radio stations with the SAME
cheap charger and a 115AH, deep-cycle, boat battery. We use them for
emergency and uninterruptable power for our stations. The charger
pulses are sunk very nicely by the battery, which provides a very
stable DC voltage in between current pulses. It simply works fine.
>
>Now hook this two bit wonder to a dead battery, make you feel better? Not
>necessarily. If the battery is just run down, It will still provide a dampening
>effect(like a big capacitor). If the battery has a broken post or other
>internal connector,or if even the battery post is dirty, then the electronics
>of the ski are getting the brunt of the noise/spikes/polarity fluctuation
>that's present in any battery charger. Plug the lanyard in to check your fuel
>level and you could damage some expensive electronics.
The ski will get full-wave, 60Hz pulses with a peak voltage around
18V. If it's got a stereo, it'll hum REAL LOUD, if it's on.
Now, let's look at the electronics. No ski ignition system, speedo
computer, security system or clock is connected to the battery. These
devices ALL have internal filtering and voltage regulators...built
right into the IC chips, themselves. If you put raw 18V DC pulses
from the charger on these devices, the 18V pulses will rise ONLY to
the level the voltage regulators are set for....6V, 9V, 5V, 12V...
Most mobile electronics, everything in your car for instance, runs on
6V, not 12V. This gives the internal regulators "headroom" to filter
out normal noise pulses, like the ignition transistors firing, the
headlights being turned on or switched from high to low, loads coming
and going...especially big loads like the AC compressor clutch coils.
This brings us to ANOTHER source...COILS!...
In case you've never felt it, ANY coil wrapped around a core kicks
like a mule! This includes the starter solenoid, the starting motor
coils, the ignition coils, any relays switched across the battery,
etc. AS with the current pulses of the little charger, any pulses
caused by the collapsing fields of any coils and arcing across opening
switches, is simply sunk by the capacity of the battery to absorb
them. You're right. It IS a HUGE capacitor....even if it's dead! To
help keep these pulses, that occur naturally on a working 12V system
of high current, coil powered, devices...the electronics is provided
with additional filtering with resistors in series absorbing excess
voltages when the internal filter capacitors on the device side of the
resistor charges and discharges opposing these variations in voltage
to ground. Look at any schematic of a car or boat stereo and you'll
see the excessive filtering and internal voltage regulation that
provide rock stable DC for everything except the output power
amplifier bricks, which could care less. The internal computer-driven
devices usually run on +5V giving these regulators 7 to 9V of
regulation headroom.
In the case of the notebook or laptop running off a DC (or AC for that
matter) source. You're in for another jolt! ...
The power supply in the computer you are reading this from is a
"switching power supply". ANY voltage or frequency from DC to
kilohertz coming in from the plug is immediately rectified to whatever
DC results....the power supply could care less, within a wide
tolerance. Obviously, it can't run on 5% of rated voltage.. It'll
run just fine on 150VDC, 117V 60 Hz, 130V 50 Hz, 130V 400Hz (airplane
power). Whatever it is fed, gets turned into
not-so-carefully-filtered DC. This DC is applied to two power
transistors, one on either end of a high frequency transformer. The
return line is the transformer's center tapped primary...It's
"push-pull". The transistors are switched on and off from no current
then as rapidly as we can to a near-shorted condition by a custom IC
chip made especially for switcher power supplies. The IC provides a
square wave, in the 50-100 Khz range, alternately switching the
transistors on and off....oppositely. The effect on the transformer
is EXACTLY like a set of points in an old ignition system. The
transformer pulses like hell every time a transistor switches OFF, and
its field collapses. The output on several secondary windings is a
VERY spiky distorted square wave. We don't care. This waveform is
immediately, once again, rectified and filtered to whatever DC voltage
it wants. This DC is then fed BACK to the IC chip! The chip says,
hmm...not enough voltage...and it raises the length of time the
transistors are left on (it's called pulse width modulation). Wider
pulses, more voltage....until the chip decides we're where it wants
us.... If the load changes, the voltage tries to drop. The chip
immediately opens the THROTTLE, feeding wider current pulses to the
transistors.
Do you think the DC fed to the precious computer chips, being isolated
so FAR from the noisy, messy AC or DC input from the battery, power
company, Coleman generator, vibrator inverter or whatever you plug it
into sees anything but the exact voltage the IC chip wants?? It
doesn't. Matter of fact, modern switchers are so good you can plug
them into USA power (117VAC, 60Hz) or Europower (240V, 50Hz) without
even changing a tap! As long as there is enough DC on the switching
transistors to result in enough current plus a little headroom...it'll
work rock steady.
In car/boat electronics, these switchers are widely used. The only
difference between the DC to DC converter, in your 4000 Watt car
stereo's mega-amp...and your computer's AC switcher...is the DC one
doesn't need an input rectifier to make DC out of AC. IF it's
designed for 12V, it'll even run on the raw DC from the
Charger!!...because the input filter caps will smooth out the
pulses...and the switcher power supplies could care less.
>
>Why risk it if all it takes to isolate them (the electronics) is to remove one
>battery lead. The original poster questioned whether it was necessary to remove
>the whole battery. That job can be a pain in the a$$ and it is not necessary.
>If you enjoy the smell of smoking silicon, then do it any way you damn well
>please. Just don't slam the manufacturer with a bogus warranty claim when it
>goes sour.
>
AS they are ALREADY so isolated, no risk is being taken. This must be
designed into the boat to survive the "open battery scenario" when the
ski's internal charging system pulses it to 18v. Any manufacturer not
designing boat electronics with protective circuitry gets exactly what
they deserve. The protective circuitry is REALLY CHEAP!!
Larry....
Robert Willis
This information is in the SeaDoo Shop Manual as the method to maintain the
battery. I went and purchased the Schumacher Charger from Walmart and
removed the battery from the Ski. Yes it was a pain in the butt to remove
and I will probably put a plug for the battery charger when it is
re-installed.
Thanks to all who offered an opinion on the battery charging question.
Regards
Robert Willis
EMAIL: Robert...@worldnet.att.net
Larry wrote in message <369d658b...@news.nations.net>...
>On 13 Jan 1999 03:58:05 GMT, whard...@aol.comdamnspam (WHardy1902)
>wrote:
>
>>>Well for those of us without the Schumacher charger.....can the battery
be
>>>charged without being disconnected from the terminals?
>>
>>You don't necessarily have to remove the battery although it is
recomended. At
>>the very least, unhook one of the battery cables before you hook up the
battery
>>charger. Although chargers are producing primarily DC voltage, they are
putting
>>out some AC as well as "noise" The expensive electronics on your Ski don't
like
>>this.
>>
>>
>>Not Harding
>>It's Hardy
>>As in Hardy Har Har
>
>
>Totally unnecessary. That little 1.5A charger pulsing a ski battery
>couldn't vary the voltage of that battery (pulse) more than .01v! I
>suppose if the battery had an open cell, the radio might hummmmmm.>(c;
>
>Wonder where this "remove the battery" BS started?? Open circuit, the
>automatic shutoff charger will NEVER go over 14v....a full battery.
>Hell, this little charger doesn't put out ANYTHING unless it senses a
>battery voltage across it's wires! It's ELECTRONIC, not 2 diodes and
>a transformer!
>
>Larry....just plug it in!
>