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Bilge for Stand Up

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Mr. Richard Flores

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Apr 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/20/98
to

What size manual bilge should I buy for my stand up? The size I get
determines the size of the hole I will have to drill in my hull,
correct?

Rick

Curt Lawnicki

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Apr 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/20/98
to Mr. Richard Flores

I use a Rule 500 gph pump in my 750SXi. DCT Sports has a package with
the pump, switch, exit fitting, hose, and bracket for around $90.

Some friends have installed two 500 gph in their stand ups. One in the
front between the gas tank and motor and one in the rear behind the
motor.

Curt

Erik

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Apr 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/20/98
to

It depends on how you ride. At a minimum I would suggest one 500 gph
Rule. For me that just doesn't cut it though. I'll use between two 500
gph and two 1100gph - right now I have one of each.

Adam Biossat

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Apr 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/20/98
to

I have a rule 500 gph in my superjet. It works very well. I just
finished making a dual bilge pump bracket so I can add another rule 500
to the back. I am also thinking of adding one in the front of the ski.
This makes sense if you are into freestyle cause when you do a big
fountain all the water goes to the front of the ski. Almost all of the
pro-freestyle guys have dual 1100gph pumps or four 500gphs. Some pro
freestylists even have a custom 2 inch one way valve in the back of the
ski to let out the water. Most 500gph pumps have a 3/4 inch outlet
hose. I think the 1100 gph rule pumps have either 1 1/2" or 1 1/8"
outlets. If I were you I would just try one 500gph and see if you think
you need more. If you have a yamaha ski you can call Pro-Tec and see if
they can help you out. Thats where I got mine.

Adam

http://comp.uark.edu/~abiossa/


Tim Weinert

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Apr 20, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/20/98
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The size of pump does not determine the size of the hole you will have to
drill in your hull. You can get adapters to change the size, although, it
is common practice to use the same size hose and fitting as the fitting on
the pump itself. Anyway, I would use a 500GPH bilge pump. 1100GPH pumps
tend to have higher bases. The intakes on the bottom tend to stretch up
higher than on a 500GPH pump. This means that once all the water is
removed, there will be a little bit more left in the bottom of the hull than
the 500 would leave. Nothing very noticeable, as the stock siphon pumps
will take care of that, but if you do a lot of riding where you need all you
can get, well, that little bit of water may hold you back. My #1 reason for
not choosing a 1100GPH pump is that they are larger than 500's. This makes
it hard to place the pump securely on the lowest point in your hull. A
360GPH pump is available, but are really slow pumping. A lot of Tigersharks
come with 360's, and with all the times I have had to rescue a TigerShark
because it filled with water, well, those 360 pumps just don't cut it. The
500 is the best choice, and will be fairly easy to find a good spot for it
in the hull. I don't remember the size hole you will have to drill, but it
is something like a 5/8 of 3/4 inch hole. And I recommend buying your pump
at a local marine supply store. The aftermarket companies charge way to
much, unless you get a computer controlled model. I put a computer
controlled bilge pump in one of my Sea-Doo's and it works well, but cost me
a hefty $125. I put manual 500GPH pumps in the rest of my Skis.(including a
SuperJet, JS300, 750SX, and Sea-Doo SP) A manual 500GPH Rule bilge pump
goes for about $15 to $20. These are the same exact pumps used by most
aftermarket companies. Don't be fooled by the "Personal Watercraft Bilge
Pump" with the higher price. It is no different. A bilge fitting and hose
will come to less than $10, but you can get a real nice aluminum bilge
fitting for about $10. Some aftermarket companies offer aluminum bilge pump
brackets and they go for about $15. These really do make it easy to mount.
I would use a standard marine grade waterproof switch to control it. I've
seen them go for $10 to $40. My switches each cost $15, and work really
well mounted on the dash. If you want to mount the switch on the handlebars
it will cost about $35-$70 for a nice two button On/Off. Hope this helps
you with your add-on. I always tend to say more than asked, so please bare
with me.

Tim Weinert
Great White PWC
www.villagewebs.com/pwc (temporarily at 209.155.4.8/pwc)

Mr. Richard Flores

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Apr 21, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/21/98
to

Do you drill a second hole when you add that second bilge?

George Jefferson

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Apr 21, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/21/98
to

: Do you drill a second hole when you add that second bilge?

if you wanted to plumb two pumps to one thru hull you need a couple
of one-way valves or else one pump will just back through the
other.

--
george jefferson : geo...@sol1.lrsm.upenn.edu
to reply simply press "r"
-- I hate editing addresses more than I hate the spam!


Mr. Richard Flores

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Apr 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/26/98
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Do the bilge pumps require any sort of maintenance once you install them? Also where is the best place to put one on a stand up?

Rick

Mike Steinmetz

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Apr 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/26/98
to

Rick,

On the Superjet I put them right next to the drive line near the bulkhead. I used
2 part epoxy to glue down the plastic baskets then ran the hoses up and out the
sides. My only mistake was not mounting them exit hose a little higher above the
bond line. The only maint. I have done to them thus far is to replace one that had
a bering squeal develop. This is a precursor to failure and it drew too much
current. Since I run duel Rule 1100's, I needed to trim the coupler cover about
1/4 of an inch so they would not hit the top of the pump.

Be sure to rough up the surface with sand paper (ski and basket) and clean the
area with acetone. Let that dry then lay down the epoxy that you premixed separately.
Put some on the basket and some on the ski. Slightly twist the basket in place to the
glue oozes up through the holes then spread it out inside the basket a little. Don't
cover the side strainer holes! just the small ones in the bottom.

Three years, one handle pole switch and one bilge pump. The currant is about 8 amps
with 2 1100s when loaded. Solder the wires and put heat shrink over them. Use
a waterproof fuse to finish off the job and your set. This takes about 2 hours if you
do it right. Let the basket cure for 24 hours before you get it wet.

Any more questions mail me or ask here.
Mike Steinmetz

1fastSJ

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Apr 27, 1998, 3:00:00 AM4/27/98
to

An even easier way to mount the bilge is with a $15 bilge bracket that uses
the existing bolts of the bulk head. Originally I tried the epoxy method
and found it too messy and I got less water flow (since the bottom was
seated in epoxy). However, the bracket I believe is designed for the Rule
500.

Mike Steinmetz <h2oc...@calweb.com> wrote in article
<3543A12C...@calweb.com>...

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