60 or 64 degree wedge?
John
a 60 degree wedge over a 64 degree. I am looking for a club I can get
good spin from, and be able to get my shot up quickly, and down onto a
green with no roll.
I think my current sand wedge is 54 degree (cavity back) but Im not
100% sure on the degree as it does not state it and it was a gift to
finish off my set.
Also the person working at this golf shop said a lot of lower handicap
players are not using a 3 wedge system. A single digit handicap
myself, I have seen many other GREAT golfers using the three wedges so
I am convinced myself the LW is a good club ot have espcially being my
second shots are usually 150 yards or less.
So what do all of you have? should I go with a 64 or stay with a
traditional 60? pros and cons all please.
cheers,
john
Marshall Ward
: I am looking into buying a loft wedge and was strongly advised to get
: cheers,
: john
Well, I'm nowhere near a single digit handicap (20) but since I picked
up my 60 degree LW it has become my favorite short game club. I hit it out
of the bunkers if the ball is sitting up, I use it for flop shots and when
I have to go over something, like a bunker. I really like the club.
I have heard that the 64 degree clubs are harder to hit consistantly, but
I cannot tell you first hand. I have never hit one. I feel as if the
60 degree club has all the loft I could ever want. A 3/4 swing is about
75 yards and a half is about 50. I seem to have pretty good feel with it
for shorter distances.
My latest set of irons has 4 wedges: 47 deg PW, 51 deg AW, 55 deg SW, 60 deg
LW.
Marshall Ward
DJD
A 64* LW is an example of a good idea taken to far. It is more difficult
to hit than a 60* and there really is no need for a 64* because a low
bounce 60* can be opened to almost 90*. But no matter which one you
decide to get, it won't work for you at all unless you spend some
significant time practicing with it. A lob wedge is NOT like other
wedges and the kind of shots it works best for demand lots of practice.
You might be better off with a gap wedge. If you have modern clubs it is
likely that your 9i is around 44*, your PW about 48* and your SW 54* or
56*, meaning you might have a huge gap between your PW and SW. If your
clubs are like this a 50* or 52* gap wedge would definitely be far more
useful than a 60* or 64* lob wedge. Later on you could add a 60* LW, if
you still felt you needed one.
FYI, virtually all pros and better players carry either 3 or 4 wedges.
I'm not aware of any pros who only carry 2 wedges.
--
Dan Driscoll
Member - NCGA
RSG FAQ: http://ttsoft.com/thor/rsggolf.html
RSG Roll Call http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=driscolld
jeffc
"John" <tr0...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:f553c646.03060...@posting.google.com...
64 would be a bit much for me. You get to a certain threshold where you
start risking just slipping the club under the ball on fluffy lies. Lots of
pros (male and female) use 3 wedges. I use 4, but part of the reason for
that is today's PW is really a 9 iron from 30 years ago. If you look at it
that way, I really have 3 wedges.
jeffc
"Marshall Ward" <ma...@soco.agilent.com> wrote in message
news:10546808...@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
>
> My latest set of irons has 4 wedges: 47 deg PW, 51 deg AW, 55 deg SW, 60
deg
> LW.
"Attack Wedge"? Ya gotta like marketing. My Hogan set has "E" and "F" -
Equalizer and Fairway (Pitching and Gap, respectively).
Mike Dalecki
I've got both, and I ended up retiring the 64* wedge for now. Turns out
that virtually everything I can do w/ the 64* I can do w/ the 60*--all I
have to do is open up the clubface a bit, and I've got an
effectively-64* club. The only exception is that my 60* has about 8* of
bounce, and that limits opening it up on fairway and tight-lie shots.
But around the green, it's golden.
I think the popularity of the 64* is in part due to Dave Pelz' 4-wedge
system idea.
For me, there just isn't enough difference between a 60* and 64* around
the green to make it work carrying both wedges, and I don't have a
consistent enough swing for the Pelz system to work well enough to make
it worth carrying that 64* wedge.
Mike
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Larry Bud
> players are not using a 3 wedge system. A single digit handicap
> myself, I have seen many other GREAT golfers using the three wedges so
> I am convinced myself the LW is a good club ot have espcially being my
> second shots are usually 150 yards or less.
>
> So what do all of you have? should I go with a 64 or stay with a
> traditional 60? pros and cons all please.
I would go for the 60 ONLY because you don't have one. I use a 4 wedge
system (10 index) ala Dave Pelz. However, I don't see why a 64 deg would
be any easier or harder to hit than a 60, you just launch the ball higher.
BUT, you can always open up a 60 to simulate a 64 easily, while it would be
more difficult to close a 64 to simulate a 60.
I carry a PW, 52, 56, and 60 deg wedge
cyclone
news:3EDD2934...@BiteMe.com...
> You might be better off with a gap wedge. If you have modern clubs it is
> likely that your 9i is around 44*, your PW about 48* and your SW 54* or
> 56*, meaning you might have a huge gap between your PW and SW. If your
> clubs are like this a 50* or 52* gap wedge would definitely be far more
> useful than a 60* or 64* lob wedge. Later on you could add a 60* LW, if
> you still felt you needed one.
A 6* gap might be optimistic with some modern sets. My Top Flite
XL2000's have a PW @ 45* and a SW @ 56* .
Now that's a helluva gap!
FWIW I carry a low bounce 60* LW and use it much more out of
the sand than anywhere else. Apart from bunkers, I use it strictly for
shots that call for it eg hitting over a bunker to a tight pin. With the
right sortof lie I can get it almost straight up and down and can't imagine
ever needing 4* more loft.
Tony
Doug Main
The 64 is VERY hard to hit full, and you can make a 60 into a 64 for the
half, 3/4 and finesse shots you need lob-type loft for. With a 60, you
can hit full shots, with some practice and get the 75+/- yrdge. A 64
full might yield 50-60, but with the inherent risk of blading or
chunking with that loft, why bother?
--
Doug Main
"It's never too late to have a happy childhood."
Larry Bud
$ro6.3...@news2.calgary.shaw.ca:
> 60, 60, 60
>
> The 64 is VERY hard to hit full, and you can make a 60 into a 64 for the
> half, 3/4 and finesse shots you need lob-type loft for. With a 60, you
> can hit full shots, with some practice and get the 75+/- yrdge. A 64
> full might yield 50-60, but with the inherent risk of blading or
> chunking with that loft, why bother?
Why would a 64 deg be any harder to hit than a 60 degree wedge? It's just
going to go higer and land shorter.
If you have trouble hitting a 64, then you have the wrong 64 with too much
bounce.
Ned Flanders
--
Please reply to the newsgroup. This address is set up for spam control and
I do not download any of its mail. Thanks again!
"Mike Dalecki" <mi...@dalecki.net> wrote in message
news:3EDD37FD...@dalecki.net...
> John wrote:
> >
> > I am looking into buying a loft wedge and was strongly advised to get
> > a 60 degree wedge over a 64 degree. I am looking for a club I can get
> > good spin from, and be able to get my shot up quickly, and down onto a
> > green with no roll.
> >
> > I think my current sand wedge is 54 degree (cavity back) but Im not
> > 100% sure on the degree as it does not state it and it was a gift to
> > finish off my set.
> >
> > Also the person working at this golf shop said a lot of lower handicap
> > players are not using a 3 wedge system. A single digit handicap
> > myself, I have seen many other GREAT golfers using the three wedges so
> > I am convinced myself the LW is a good club ot have espcially being my
> > second shots are usually 150 yards or less.
> >
> > So what do all of you have? should I go with a 64 or stay with a
> > traditional 60? pros and cons all please.
> >
> > cheers,
> > john
>
> I've got both, and I ended up retiring the 64* wedge for now. Turns out
> that virtually everything I can do w/ the 64* I can do w/ the 60*--all I
> have to do is open up the clubface a bit, and I've got an
> effectively-64* club. The only exception is that my 60* has about 8* of
> bounce, and that limits opening it up on fairway and tight-lie shots.
> But around the green, it's golden.
I also have been trying both the 60 and 64 in the bag, and have come to
about the same conclusion. The benefit of the 64 would be that you can hit
a higher shorter greenside shot without opening it up. But I find the extra
height vs the 60 is only needed on really close flops which by definition
mean there is very little margin for error. So the 64 shots tend to be high
risk/reward and the flubs stick in the mind and soon the club is in the
garage and not the bag. That is where mine is headed. :)
Mike, I ground the heel bounce off of a 60º wedge so that it does not gain
bounce when opened up. I believe the bounce started with less than your 8º
to begin with. I think you can find some lower-bounce heads if you want. I
just used a bench grinder to take off the heel area bounce, then finished it
up with some hand grinding. It looks really good, you'd be hard pressed to
tell it wasn't made like that. Didn't lose all that much weight, either.
To the original poster, I played a long time with a 65 instead of a 60 and I
got used to it and loved it. Then I quit and for some reason started using
a 60 and I got used to it and love it. All things considered from my
experiences, I think you'd be a little happier with the 60, it is more
versatile.
-Don M
Colleyville Alan
news:3EDD2934...@BiteMe.com...
> > I am looking into buying a loft wedge and was strongly advised to get
> > a 60 degree wedge over a 64 degree. I am looking for a club I can get
> > good spin from, and be able to get my shot up quickly, and down onto a
> > green with no roll.
> >
> > I think my current sand wedge is 54 degree (cavity back) but Im not
> > 100% sure on the degree as it does not state it and it was a gift to
> > finish off my set.
> >
> > Also the person working at this golf shop said a lot of lower handicap
> > players are not using a 3 wedge system. A single digit handicap
> > myself, I have seen many other GREAT golfers using the three wedges so
> > I am convinced myself the LW is a good club ot have espcially being my
> > second shots are usually 150 yards or less.
> >
> > So what do all of you have? should I go with a 64 or stay with a
> > traditional 60? pros and cons all please.
> >
> > cheers,
> > john
>
> A 64* LW is an example of a good idea taken to far. It is more difficult
> to hit than a 60* and there really is no need for a 64* because a low
> bounce 60* can be opened to almost 90*.
I have both and do not find the 64* any harder to hit. Since I can't chip
worth a damn, I use these clubs to get it close (frightening that I hit a
flop shot better than I chip). It is true that a 60* can be opened up to
almost 90*, but that would be much harder to hit and control than a straight
64* wedge shot.
* But no matter which one you
> decide to get, it won't work for you at all unless you spend some
> significant time practicing with it. A lob wedge is NOT like other
> wedges and the kind of shots it works best for demand lots of practice.
Quite true that you will need lots of practice. Some shots with the lob are
very much like other wedges, but flops or bunker shots are very different.
Colleyville Alan
news:vdqfhdl...@news.supernews.com...
If you open up a 60* wedge, how can you be certain how much effective loft
you have? Have you actually opened the club up to 64* or 63* or 70* or
what? Even if you can open it to exactly 64*, why would this be easier to
hit that a club that is 64* to begin with?
Colleyville Alan
news:9eaDa.21206$nr.17...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
I've been wondering why people keep abbreviating "Gap Wedge" as "AW". It's
an ATTACK WEDGE!!!
Yeah, marketing rules. The putter is the "Scoring Club", we have an
"Attack" wedge and an "Equalizer" wedge. Why not an "Assault" wedge, a
"Siege" iron, a "Wedge of Mass Destruction"?
John
the past two years golf has taken a back seat because of some higher
priorities in life. I am back playing on a regular basis again and
was looking at the loft wedge. This sounds dumb, but i don't know
100% what loft my SW/PW are.
I use Lynx Parallax (still in great condition) and have had them for a
few years now. Thing is these were a gift I got when I was still
living at home and at the time it did not matter what loft my SW was.
:-) however I guess I could take it to a golf shop and easy figure it
out, but I do think its a 54 degree imo. either way I think a LW @ 60
degrees would be a great addition.
I hit my tee shots usually about 280-300 yards and on a lot of courses
around here I am coming in w/ a 9i/PW/SW almost on all par 4's. So I
think having another lower club to add to my arsonal would be very
beneficial. I have noticed not many shops sell a 64 degrees and thats
probably why then. What are good bounce numbers? ***is 5-10
decent?*** lol I have never been fitted for clubs. I have got where
I am in golf by adaption to what come off the shelf. Plus 5yr ago
around here it was not TOO common to have your clubs fitted unless you
know a club builder (which I did not like his clubs).
Thanks for your fast response. I will be at a golf like expo tomorrow
where they will have a lot of deals and would like to buy my wedge
their.
Cheers,
John
DJD <NoSpa...@BiteMe.com> wrote in message news:<3EDD2934...@BiteMe.com>...
Peter Strauss
My experience with the 63* super lob wedge was that it was terribly
easy to go right under the ball on most lies, except of course for
hardpan.
I've also had a really hard time controlling the distance with my 60*,
and have once again relegated it to the "old club barrel", for the
nonce. I've been getting much better results with my SW, which is a
Hogan Forged, and is the smoothest, silkiest club I've ever hit.
Now I have to calibrate it with varying degrees of opened face. It's
very easy to hit long with even a partial swing--as I did many times
yesterday on greens that were like rock. Resulted in my having lots
of longer-than-I-expected putts. But I'm sure I can dial it in with
practice.
peter
Cal Golfer
needed to hit this club well is very hard to find.
You didn't mention the possibility of a 58 degree wedge...Cleveland and
other wedge makers have these, and many people find them to be a great
choice -- especially if your SW is 52-54 degrees...
..otherwise, go with a 60 degree wedge with as little bounce as possible.
"John" <tr0...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:f553c646.03060...@posting.google.com...
Mika Hekkanen
"Colleyville Alan" <aechar...@NoSpam.attbi.com> wrote in message
news:fpcDa.34159$DV.5...@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att.net...
>
> "Attack" wedge and an "Equalizer" wedge. Why not an "Assault" wedge, a
> "Siege" iron, a "Wedge of Mass Destruction"?
>
I already have a couple of "Wedges of Score Destruction".
More traditional people would call them sand and lob wedges.
My real contribution to the discussion: I have 4 wedges,
PW (48.5 - really! :), GW (51), SW (56) and LW (60).
The PW is a cavity back, others are blades.
The PW is my only wedge that I use regularily with full swing.
I can not imagine how people could benefit from a 64deg
wedge, the 60 pops the ball straight up - or straight
forward when skulled :)
Cheers,
-M-
Troy
Troy
"Colleyville Alan" <aechar...@NoSpam.attbi.com> wrote in message
news:fpcDa.34159$DV.5...@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att.net...
Colleyville Alan
news:SXgDa.4842$g4.9...@news1.nokia.com...
Yeah, that's what I thought until I had a ball 20 yards off the green and
used my 64* wedge to drop it on. I did not skull it, but I sent it over the
green to a greenside bunker - it does not go "straight up" when hit
properly. That was my early days with it - today I'm *somewhat* better :)
Larry Bud
> "Larry Bud" <larryb...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:vdqfhdl...@news.supernews.com...
> > > Also the person working at this golf shop said a lot of lower handicap
> > > players are not using a 3 wedge system. A single digit handicap
> > > myself, I have seen many other GREAT golfers using the three wedges so
> > > I am convinced myself the LW is a good club ot have espcially being my
> > > second shots are usually 150 yards or less.
> > >
> > > So what do all of you have? should I go with a 64 or stay with a
> > > traditional 60? pros and cons all please.
> >
> > I would go for the 60 ONLY because you don't have one. I use a 4 wedge
> > system (10 index) ala Dave Pelz. However, I don't see why a 64 deg would
> > be any easier or harder to hit than a 60, you just launch the ball higher.
> > BUT, you can always open up a 60 to simulate a 64 easily, while it would
> be
> > more difficult to close a 64 to simulate a 60.
>
> If you open up a 60* wedge, how can you be certain how much effective loft
> you have?
With practice. You measure your distance with a particular length
swing with your clubface opened up a certain amount. You don't need
to know the effective loft, you just need to know the distance the
ball will go. You can determine how much the clubface is opened by
looking at the grooves of the club, and see how far to the left of
your stance they are pointing.
> Have you actually opened the club up to 64* or 63* or 70* or
> what? Even if you can open it to exactly 64*, why would this be easier to
> hit that a club that is 64* to begin with?
I don't think it would be any easier or harder to hit than a 64* club,
that was someone elses argument (however, with a poorly designed 60*
club, it could be harder to hit because the bounce is effectively
increased when you open the club up). The purpose of carrying extra
wedges is to fill in the yardage gaps between clubs. If you carry a
56* and a 64* with no 60*, you're not filling in the gaps.
Mike Dalecki
I don't think it's so much to do w/ what effective loft you get (whether
it's 63 or 66 or whatever), but rather, that in opening up the clubface
a certain amount, now you have what *is* effectively another wedge.
And if you practice with it using that open clubface, you can find out
what shots you can hit with it, and about how far they go.
I was practicing w/ my 60* yesterday, hitting the ball out of rough
close to the green. I was working on two shots, a close and a far
shot. I opened up the clubface, and hit those shots sort of like
sand/explosion shots, working to throw the clubhead under the ball and
having the bounce lift the ball out of the rough.
I didn't change the amount I opened the clubface (which in each case is
more open than normal), but varied the swing--similar to what Pelz
advocates w/ his 3 finesse swings.
All I was trying to do was pop the ball in the air so it would land to a
close pin about 12 yards away, and another pin about 10 yards further
than that.
Heck, from deep greenside rough, all I'm looking for a decent chance at
an up-and-down. I can't guarantee it, because you never know how much
that rough is going to impede the shot through the grass--and that's why
I like the explosion/bounce kind of shot, it's less prone to the grass
grabbing the clubhead. I don't expect it to get up and down with any
high degree of probability, but what I want is a good chance at a putt.
Up-and-down from a buried lie in the rough next to the green is a tough
shot, but getting down in 3 is not that hard, and that's what I'm trying
to ensure, with an OK chance at an up-and-down.
Howard Brazee
are you going to give up another club somewhere else?
The hard part about this is that my high loft SW is not a club that I want to
open up to make a full swing 60° LW shot. The question is - do I need that
shot?
Since you're a low handicap golfer, you probably can adjust to this loss of
precision better than I can.
Still, opening a 60° LW seems easier than opening a 55° SW.
(Will you have occasions to open up a 64° LW?)
Howard Brazee
On 3-Jun-2003, "Colleyville Alan" <aechar...@NoSpam.attbi.com> wrote:
> If you open up a 60* wedge, how can you be certain how much effective loft
> you have? Have you actually opened the club up to 64* or 63* or 70* or
> what? Even if you can open it to exactly 64*, why would this be easier to
> hit that a club that is 64* to begin with?
That's not the question that needs to be asked. If you have a limited number
of clubs, how do you best get the variations of lofts that you want?
It is much easier (for me) to open up a LW to 64° than it is to open up a SW to
60°. So if I want 2 clubs to do 55°, 60°, & 64° I prefer to have a 60° LW.
YMMV.
Howard Brazee
On 3-Jun-2003, "Colleyville Alan" <aechar...@NoSpam.attbi.com> wrote:
> I have both and do not find the 64* any harder to hit. Since I can't chip
> worth a damn, I use these clubs to get it close (frightening that I hit a
> flop shot better than I chip). It is true that a 60* can be opened up to
> almost 90*, but that would be much harder to hit and control than a straight
> 64* wedge shot.
With both - what are the other clubs that you carry?
Will Trash-Spam
Well to go against the grain, as it were, I have a 64 and I like it. Its
suits me and my game. My other two wedges are a 44 PW and a 54 SW, so the
64 seemed natural progression. And cause I practice a lot its not that hard
to hit, but given I tend to lob next to the hole (on receptive greens) and
not chip (perhaps some won't like this), as I said, it suits the way I play.
jeffc
"Troy" <cfe-t...@powerup.com.au> wrote in message
news:80jDa.4504$7E.5...@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
> >
> > Yeah, marketing rules. The putter is the "Scoring Club", we have an
> > "Attack" wedge and an "Equalizer" wedge. Why not an "Assault" wedge, a
> > "Siege" iron, a "Wedge of Mass Destruction"?
"Siege iron" - that's a good one.... I've been playing "Age of Empires" and
learning all the old weapons.... Capped Battering Wedge, Onager Wedge,
Trebuchet Wedge, Heavy Scorpion Wedge, Bombard Cannon Wedge. Wedges of Mass
Destruction are awesome though... :-)
jeffc
>
> I don't think it's so much to do w/ what effective loft you get (whether
> it's 63 or 66 or whatever), but rather, that in opening up the clubface
> a certain amount, now you have what *is* effectively another wedge.
>
> And if you practice with it using that open clubface, you can find out
> what shots you can hit with it, and about how far they go.
That works OK for me for short little shots around the green, but I gotta be
careful how much I open the face, especially on fuller swings. It's not
hard to shank it with that hosel leading the way....
jeffc
"Howard Brazee" <how...@brazee.net> wrote in message
news:bbkqg3$orc$1...@peabody.colorado.edu...
>
> That's not the question that needs to be asked. If you have a limited
number
> of clubs, how do you best get the variations of lofts that you want?
>
> It is much easier (for me) to open up a LW to 64° than it is to open up a
SW to
> 60°.
That's presumably because of the bounce. And you don't want to drop your SW
because the bounce is there for a reason - sand. So the 60 makes sense if
you can fit it in your bag.
jeffc
"Will Trash-Spam" <mark.staffo...@bt.com> wrote in message
news:bbkr6t$io3$1...@pheidippides.axion.bt.co.uk...
>>
> Well to go against the grain, as it were, I have a 64 and I like it. Its
> suits me and my game. My other two wedges are a 44 PW and a 54 SW, so the
> 64 seemed natural progression. And cause I practice a lot its not that
hard
> to hit, but given I tend to lob next to the hole (on receptive greens) and
This works OK if you practice it, but I still think it's good to practice
chipping as well. The reason is that even if you get pretty good with the
lob wedge, you're only going to get the ball reasonably close - say 5-6 feet
or so on average. A chipper who's as good as that lobber is going to get
the ball to around 2-3 feet on average, IMO.
Marshall Ward
: "Marshall Ward" <ma...@soco.agilent.com> wrote in message
: news:10546808...@cswreg.cos.agilent.com...
:>
:> My latest set of irons has 4 wedges: 47 deg PW, 51 deg AW, 55 deg SW, 60
: deg
:> LW.
: "Attack Wedge"? Ya gotta like marketing. My Hogan set has "E" and "F" -
: Equalizer and Fairway (Pitching and Gap, respectively).
The four wedges are marked P A S and L. I always thought the A stood for
"Approach" Wedge. Oh well. I don't care what they call it. I use it when
I am 100-110 yards out.
Marshall Ward
Will Trash-Spam
Accepted, I use both. Not to brag I manage 3-4 feet lobbing usually,
duffers, well, like everyone that 10-50 feet if its really bad, but then
chipping can do that too!
John
response to my question. :-) Picked up a 60* (Golden Bear - Bear
Claw) today. felt good, and I had a set of Golden Bears before my
Lynx and they were good clubs.
But being as it is my first LW I will take a 60* and hopefully it will
do what I need. Heading to the golf range soon to test it on out.
(As it got it at a golf like expo I could not hit it) but I have no
doubt I can, it feels perfect to hold and the face is milled, so that
should also aid in feel and spin.
Cheers All
John
"Cal Golfer" <grun...@pacbell.net> wrote in message news:<JifDa.2667$Ly6....@newssvr16.news.prodigy.com>...
Howard Brazee
On 4-Jun-2003, "jeffc" <f...@chance.com> wrote:
> This works OK if you practice it, but I still think it's good to practice
> chipping as well. The reason is that even if you get pretty good with the
> lob wedge, you're only going to get the ball reasonably close - say 5-6 feet
> or so on average. A chipper who's as good as that lobber is going to get
> the ball to around 2-3 feet on average, IMO.
As a duffer, I find my best lobs tend to be closer to my best chips. My worst
lobs though are far worse than my worst chips.
As I practice more though, I am getting fewer disaster lobs - but my chips are
getting better faster than my lobs are. I don't have to walk as much to pick
up a half bucket of chips as I do picking a half bucket or lobs anymore.
My biggest improvement with chipping was by applying the oldest advice in the
book - keep my head still.
Bruce Newman
<mi...@dalecki.net> wrote:
> I don't think it's so much to do w/ what effective loft you get (whether
> it's 63 or 66 or whatever), but rather, that in opening up the clubface
> a certain amount, now you have what *is* effectively another wedge.
>
> And if you practice with it using that open clubface, you can find out
> what shots you can hit with it, and about how far they go.
[...]
For me, Mike said it all right here: practice. I'm not a very
analytical type by nature, but more on the intuitive side. Maybe it
would be worth thinking about your own approach to golf. I use two
wedges, a 52° PW and a 56° SW, and these work great for me because I
seem to be "feel oriented". I think my ability to visualize and create
mental images is very good and I can intuitively open the clubface as I
need, usually with great results. I'm no world-beater by any means, but
I'll go head to head with Phil Mickelson on semi-full swing cut SWs
around the green.
My 56° SW (with little bounce) just gives me a lot more options than a
60° or, worse, a 64° wedge. For others, maybe a 4-wedge sytem is the
way to go. As I said, I would look at your basic nature and see if you
can learn from that. Do you tend toward being analytical/mechanical or
toward an intuitive/feel orientation? There are no wrong answers; just
go with what works. For either approach, your short game requires a lot
of practice and it is the first thing to hit if you are looking for
lower scores.
Bruce
----------------------
Bruce E. Newman * Fredericton, NB, Canada
http://rec-sport-golf.com/members/?rollcall=newmanb
info at benewman dot bizland dot com * http://go.to/bruce_newman
jeffc
"Bruce Newman" <bene...@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message
news:040620031211429541%bene...@nbnet.nb.ca...
>
> For me, Mike said it all right here: practice. I'm not a very
> analytical type by nature, but more on the intuitive side. Maybe it
> would be worth thinking about your own approach to golf. I use two
You should probably also point out that you have (I think) a 48* 9 iron. A
lot of guys have 44* 9 irons, leaving a bigger gap than you have. They need
an "extra" wedge (52* is called a gap wedge for most people), while you
don't.
Doug Main
> Doug Main <""dougmain\"@cut this shaw.ca> wrote in news:hvbDa.125401
> $ro6.3...@news2.calgary.shaw.ca:
>
>
>>60, 60, 60
>>
>>The 64 is VERY hard to hit full, and you can make a 60 into a 64 for the
>>half, 3/4 and finesse shots you need lob-type loft for. With a 60, you
>>can hit full shots, with some practice and get the 75+/- yrdge. A 64
>>full might yield 50-60, but with the inherent risk of blading or
>>chunking with that loft, why bother?
>
>
> Why would a 64 deg be any harder to hit than a 60 degree wedge? It's just
> going to go higer and land shorter.
>
> If you have trouble hitting a 64, then you have the wrong 64 with too much
> bounce.
After a certain point, the loft of the club is so great that it's
increasingly difficult to hit the ball cleanly. Imagine a club with 90*
of loft. It's impossible to hit the "back" of the ball with it. It
follows that the closer one gets to 90, the less likely it is to produce
a clean hit. There's a law of diminishing returns here, and I think 64
is on the other side of it.
I don't have a 64 for that reason. My 60 has hardly any bounce, and
I've had it bent to 58 to give me more versatility. I can hit it full,
and get 80-90 yds, also open it up for feathery pitches, lobs and chips.
--
Doug Main
"It's never too late to have a happy childhood."
B.J.Wilkinson
I carry both a 64 and a 60 - the 64 is a stoke stealer close to the
green.
B. J. Wilkinson
eleveld
I followed this thread with interest. Except for my 60 degree lob
wedge I have no idea of the angle of my wedges. I have a P, G, S and
L but they are all from different manufacturers. Only the P matches
my iron set. For me, the important statistic is the distance of a
full shot. With my wedges its P = 135, G = 120, S = 105, L = 80 (all
approximates). I bought the G when I switched iron sets and the new
irons all went about 10 to 15 yards farther than the old ones. So the
"gap" between P and S increased from about 20 to about 30 yards. Way
too much. It's also handy to have a range of bounces. My S has lots
of bounce, while the G and L have little. That gives me options in
respect to fluffy vs. hard lies.
I have also been experimenting at the top of the iron range, dropping
my 3 and 4 so I could add a 7 wood and a 6 (trouble with a deep
"keel") wood. I find the new fairway woods more reliable for the 190
yard shot or the long approach shot out of the rough. I do miss the
long irons for punch shots under trees, however. I find it harder to
guage distances and to keep it down with the lofted woods, so have to
use a hooded 5 or 6 iron back in my stance for the low punch.
Colleyville Alan
Generally:
1-3-5 woods
Putter
4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, irons
PW, SW, 60*, 64*
My 3-iron needs a new shaft so I don't use it. Sometimes I will bring a
7-wood and then drop either the 64* or the 4-iron.
Steven B.
64*. I find that I will Pitch and chip from a barried lie out of green
side Rough with a 56* sand wedge and sometimes use the sand wedge from
certain lies out of a bunker, but generally I prefer to pitch and chip
from green side with a Loft Wedge 60*. I will open it up for a flop on
a short sided pin with little or no green to work with on a green that
slopes away from me. Sometimes I will use the 64* here as well, but
for the most part I will even hit my 60 out of the bunkers. Although I
do find that having a 64* can come in real handy in certain
situations.
Thanks in advance!!!
Regards,
Steve B.
Dru...@Hotmail.com
Howard Brazee
On 4-Jun-2003, Steven B. <Dru...@Hotmail.com> wrote:
> I play the exact same club configuration here as well. Love a 60* and
> 64*. I find that I will Pitch and chip from a barried lie out of green
> side Rough with a 56* sand wedge and sometimes use the sand wedge from
> certain lies out of a bunker, but generally I prefer to pitch and chip
> from green side with a Loft Wedge 60*. I will open it up for a flop on
> a short sided pin with little or no green to work with on a green that
> slopes away from me. Sometimes I will use the 64* here as well, but
> for the most part I will even hit my 60 out of the bunkers. Although I
> do find that having a 64* can come in real handy in certain
> situations.
So the two of you find a 64° wedge to be more useful than a gap wedge or a 22°
wood.
Larry Bud
> > going to go higer and land shorter.
> >
> > If you have trouble hitting a 64, then you have the wrong 64 with too much
> > bounce.
>
> After a certain point, the loft of the club is so great that it's
> increasingly difficult to hit the ball cleanly. Imagine a club with 90*
> of loft. It's impossible to hit the "back" of the ball with it. It
> follows that the closer one gets to 90, the less likely it is to produce
> a clean hit.
I suspect that's why the more loft on a club, the larger the face.
John
happy I got the club. It has been great so far, and is a perfect 90
yard shot for myself. Very easy to adjust lesser yards too, plus its
the best up/down club I have in my bag to save me when I have to hit a
20yr shot to the pin, over a bunker, and pin close to the edge. I
think the milled face also makes a huge difference in this wedge too.
Cheers all,
John
tr0...@msn.com (John) wrote in message news:<f553c646.03060...@posting.google.com>...
Steven B.
playing. I have a 5 wood, so if I need less distance with it I can
choke up on it a couple of inces and that seems to do the trick. As
far as a gap wedge, I again will choke up on my PW. If the course is
one that I know I can benefit more by excluding the 64* and adding
another club, I have an 22* resucue club that I can swap it for.
On Fri, 6 Jun 2003 13:14:33 GMT, "Howard Brazee" <how...@brazee.net>
wrote:
Thanks in advance!!!
Regards,
Steve B.
Dru...@Hotmail.com