Thanks.
--
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Harlan Whitley whi...@mksol.dseg.ti.com |
| Texas Instruments Voice: Hellooooooooo
| |
+-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
I use a club builders version of the RAM Accubar.
GREG
John
______________________________________________________________________________
Jorge Nigaglioni 93 (niga...@acad.bryant.edu)
____
T R L |18|
H O A ---|
_O_ E C U |
\ / K N |
x E C |
/|\ T H |
||| E |
||| R |
DON'T WORRY, IT IS PROVEN THAT THERE IS MORE AIR THAN TREES, GO AHEAD HIT IT,
IT'LL GO THROUGH, AND IF IT DOESN'T, YOU PROVED THE SCIENTISTS WRONG
______________________________________________________________________________
I'm currently using Wilson Firestick (steel shaft) Ultra irons with
stiff shafts. I got these about 1 year ago after extensively looking
at and demoing a lot of different clubs. Eventually I got it down to
5 choices, the Wilsons, Titalist DCI, Hogan Edge, Ping (not the zing's)
and the 845's. I liked them all but for differing reasons eliminated
the Titalists (couldn't get used to the offset), Hogan (just didn't
have the feel and distance of the Wilson), Ping (felt too light to me)
and 845's (felt good hitting the ball but it seemed like my shots went
a lot higher than with other clubs). The Ultra's felt really solid
on all shots, had a good (not too high trajectory) and were 1/2 to 1
club length longer than any other set I tried.
My driver is a Arnold Palmer Peerless Pete persimmon head, carbon shaft
that delivers awesome distance when in the groove. Lately though, I
have been keeping it in my bag and going strictly with a 3 wood off the
tee. I got into a bad groove with the Peerless Pete and couldn't hit
anything off the tee so I stopped using it. It is a fantastic club
though when you hit one on the screws, 300 yard drives were not that
uncommon for me when I hit it. My 3 and 5 woods are just inexpensive
off-the-shelf discount shop woods as is my putter.
Lee
Three Wood: Hogan persimmon: Apex 5 shaft
Four Wood: Hogan persimmon: DG X-100 shaft
2-iron through PW: Wilson Staff Tour Blade FG-51; DG S-300
Sand Wedge: Hogan 25th Commemorative
Putter: (depending on the phase of the moon) Ping B-60,
Ping Anser,
Wilson TPA,
Ray Cook Blue Goose,
Ram Zebra, or
Some old Cleveland Classic blade thing
Ball: Titleist DT 100 compression
Isaac (k...@bull.ucsd.edu)
> Just curious as to what clubs are favored by the "net" golfers out
> there. I am also trying to find out what the most favorite "clone"
> is.
>
>
DAIWA Monodyne GK's (Wilson Staff clones) Lynx classic 3 wood and
driver du jour. David
>Just curious as to what clubs are favored by the "net" golfers out
>there. I am also trying to find out what the most favorite "clone"
>is.
Irons: Wilson Ultra with Aldila HM-40 shafts
Driver: 9 degree Taylor Made Burner
3-Wood: Taylor Made
putter: Ping anser
Works for me :-)
--
Colin McFadyen - Systems Support - col...@ccs.carleton.ca
Carleton University Computing and Communications Services
Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA K1S 5B6
Driver- Cleaveland TC15 (persimmon) Sandvik titanium (S) shaft
3 wood- Dennis Brosnan Tour Classic (persimmon) S300U shaft
1 iron to 6 iron- Cleavlend Tour Action 588P (mild steel)
S300 shafts
7 iron to 9 iron- Cleavlend Tour Action 588 (mild steel)
S300 shafts
Wedges- Cleavelend Tour Action 588 Psp 49 degree special, knocked
up to 51 degrees S300 shaft
Ram Tom Watson 58 degree cobalt stiff shaft
Putter- Spalding TP Mills original (complete with rust)
John Campbell jcam...@metz.une.edu.au
Department of Chemistry
University of New England
Armidale, NSW, Australia
Taylor-Made 13' Tour Spoon and 16.5' Raylor with DG R-400 steel shaft
Mizuno MS-9 Forged Blades 3-PW with DG S-300 steel shaft. Irons 1/4 - 1/2
longer.
Mizuno Pro 52', 56' and 60' Wedge system.
John Mahoney #4 putter - found this putter in a garage sale and LOVE it!!!
Still looking for another one for spare. Looks like a Ping Kushin (ie. no
hosel)
That's 15 clubs - I leave out either the Raylor or the 60' wedge depending on
the course I'm playing.
Balls - Titleit Tour or Tour Editions
2-9,PW,SW: 1973 Powerbuilt Scotchblade with 2" overlength AP25 shaft (stiff)
(If anyone knows where I can get the 1-iron!...let me know!!)
Putter: Ping
Ball: Ultra Tour Balata 100
--
Mark Koenig, Optimization Specialist
Convex Computer Corp.
"The First Rule of Program Optimization: Don't do it.
The Second Rule of Program Optimization (for experts): Don't do it yet."
Woods: Taylor-Made System 2 10 degree driver and 14 degree 3-wood, Dynamic
Gold S300 shafts
Irons: Wilson Staff Tour Blade 1 and 2 irons, Hogan Apex 3-PW, Prima
sand wedge - 55 degrees
Putter: Ping Pal 2
Ball: Titleist Tour Balata 90
--
- Reed Wilbur Internet: erwi...@tasc.com Compu$erve: 72053,2004
Phone: (617) 942-0080 x2799 FAX: (617) 942-7100
"It *is* a sport, therefore, we *are* athletes!"
- Wiley in "Non Sequitur"
Jerry Bass gb...@mitre.org
The MITRE Corporation Bedford, MA
: Thanks.
Driver: Taylor Made (the original) 12 degree loft
3-5 wood: Powerbuilt Persimmons
2-SW irons: Tommy Armour 845's
Putter: Ray Cook Blue Goose
All shafts are stiff
Handicap 6-8 (depending on time of the season)
ROY
Putter: Baron (great "feel" putter)
Driver: 11 degree , Out-a-Site head, Grafalloy M54 R shaft.
3,5 Wood: Tour Limited
New Driver: 9.5 degree Large Marge head with Fibersonic series 2.8
Stiff shaft by Paragon (can't hit worth a flip right now).
************************************************************************
* Gregg Bond *
* Delgado Community College *
* New Orleans, LA *
* Bitnet: GSBOND@DELGADO *
* Voice : (504) 483-4910 *
************************************************************************
Irons Wilson Staff progressive
Wedges Hogan 53, Hogan SI 60
Putter Ping Zing
driver: big bertha, steel shaft (regular flex), 9 degree
2-wood: taylor original one, 12 degree
3-wood: pinseeker, 15 degree
2-iron-sand wedge: titleist dci gold
putter: don't know, but it is the best club in the bag!!!
ball: titleist hvc 100 compression (i know 2 piece ball doesn't make a
difference with compression, but i
like the black writing!!) :)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Christopher Gattuso "(referring to the NRA) don't give me this
crap, that guns were not in the bible,
gat...@ssd.comm.mot.com because they didn't have them then....he
Motorola, Inc. was God, I think he could have invented
Schaumburg, Illinois one!!!" -Dennis Miller
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I have also been playing the Ultra Irons (2.8 steel shafts - stiff) for
about a year - love them! When I was buying I was checking out the DCIs,
Parallax and 845's, but really liked the look and feel of the Wilsons.
I carry 3-PW + 60 degree Third Wedge.
My woods are the Ultra tour woods (1-3-5), but I am just waiting for one
of the local stores to get a Killer Whale (left-handed) in stock. On
that topic - has anyone played this club? Is it any good or just big???
I also carry a Fazer Tour Model (Ping clone) 2-iron (bought it used just
to see whether I could hit a 2-iron or not, and I kinda like the club!).
My putter is one that I won recently at our company tourney - I think it's
an accushot or something. The second hole I played with it, I snaked a
75 foot uphill/sidehill putt for bird, so that club has earned the right to
stay in my bag for awhile! I also went on to shoot a 79 for the round
which beat my previous best by 6 strokes...
|>
|> Lee
-- Brian Bennefeld.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Fiber Systems Software Process Engineering Group
Bell-Northern Research, Ottawa, Ontario - CANADA
bri...@bnr.ca phone: (613) 765-2348
Disclaimer: BNR owns, but does not necessarily share my opinions...
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Three Wood: Founders Club Judge, 14 degree loft, D3 swingweight, stiff shaft
1-iron through PW (and W3 (52 degree) : 845S Silver Scot, stiff shaft, D3
swingweight
Sand Wedge: Callaway 56 degree, Hickory Stick, stiff shaft
Putter: Ping Zing
All my clubs have full cord grips as well. I like the lower swingweight on
the driver as I find that I can move the ball around a little more off
the tee - draws, fades....the straight shot is still elusive, however :-)
Ball: Titleist DT 100 compression or Top-Flite Tour Edition 100 compression
(thanks to Isaac Kim for the format).
John Brown
jo...@sq.com
Irons:
- Hogan Edge 2-PW <== Rec'd as a gift from work
- Hogan SI SW <== Hits 'em high and short
Putter:
- Ping Zing 2 <== I'd be lost without it
Total of 13 clubs. What should I get for a 14th??
--
---------------------------------------------------
Fred L. Templin
(tem...@grayling.Berkeley.EDU)
---------------------------------------------------
Daiwa G-3 Compo 10 degree driver. (makes a CLACK! when hit but goes a
country mile!)
16 and 19 degree Taylor-Made Raylors. (great clubs)
Daiwa Hi-trac 1-iron, SW, 3-10 irons.
Bullseye standard putter.
Titleist Tour Balata 90.
Chet Barber
Jim Dent (Feb 1991)
Driver: Callaway metal, 9 1/2 degrees loft; Dynamic X-100
shaft, 44 inches long; D-3 swingweight
3-wood: Callaway metal, 14 degrees loft; Dymanic X-100
shaft, standard length
1-iron through SW - MacFregor Muirfield 20 forged. Lofts on
1 though 4 irons set 1/2 degree weak, lofts standard on 5
iron though SW. Dynamic S-400 shafts on all irons.
Grips: All grips Neumann Calf leather.
Putter: Bullet mallet, standard lie, 37 1/2 inch shaft
Ball: Titleist 384 balata, 90 compression
Glove: Bullet Power-Lock
Shoes: Footjoy
Betsy King (Oct 1989)
Driver: Taylor Made Burner Plus, D-2 swingweight; 9.5
degrees loft; Brunswick Frequecy matched shaft 6.0 flex
(between regular and stiff), 43 inches long. All grips Ping
Aqua.
3-wood: Taylor Made Tour Spoon, D-2 swingweight; 13 degrees
loft; Brunswick Frequency matched shaft, 6.0 flex.
4-wood: Titleist persimmon, D-2 swingweight; Brunswick 6.0
shaft
5-wood: Spalding persimmon, D-2 swingweight; Brunswick 6.0
shaft.
3-iron through PW: Wilson Staff Tour Blade (1980 model),
Precision 5.3 shaft; standard lofts and lies. All shafts
1/4 inch shorter than standard.
SW: Hogan Special, 56 degrees loft; shaft 1/4 shorter than
standard.
Putter: Acushnet Bulls Eye La Femme.
Ball: Titleist 384 balata, 100 compression
Note: It is interesting that Dent plays a 90 compresion and
King plays a 100 compression. Dents says he likes the feel
of a 90 compression and he doesn't need the extra distance
of a 100 compression.
Isaac (k...@bull.ucsd.edu)
2I-PW: Titleist DCI, stiff shafts
Other Wedge: 60 degree dual wedge, not sure offhand who made it
Swing: varies from day-to-day, hole-to-hole... :-(
--
+++++ Mike Regan mi...@msi.com +++++
+++++ Molecular Simulations Inc. Burlington, Mass. +++++
Sandy Reutter
Hewlett_Packard Greeley Div
san...@hpgrgn.gr.hp.com
303-350-4102
"No one is totally worthless,
they can always be used as a bad example."
Driver: Founders Club _The Judge_
10.5 degree, stiff steel shaft.
4 wood: Taylor Made
18 degree w/ rails, stiff titanium shaft.
1-pw-sw-lw: Ping Zings
Black dot (standard loft, lie and height), stiff steel shafts.
Putter: Ping B60
Berrylium Copper
--
Michael A. Petonic -- Director of Dangerous Activities
"When you get a woman, your .emacs goes to shit."
3-wood: taylor burner 15 degree (use to tee off)
5-wood: tommy aaron 21 degree (looks like a taylor and surpisingly hits
like a taylor)
7-wood: cobra baffler (haven't had the chance to use it yet)
3-pw: armour 845's regular flex (love 'em)
sand wedge: ping zing 56 degree
putter: ping B-60 with tiger shark oversized grip (love it)
-------------
845's are great; balls hit on the sweetspot take off like a rocket, i
just have to hit it there more often.
Al Shaw <as...@acad.bryant.edu>
>3-wood: Callaway metal, 14 degrees loft; Dymanic X-100
>shaft, standard length
Is there really a Callaway 3-wood with 14' loft? Or do you think this is a
modified loft? How does one modify the loft of a wood? I used to have a S2H2
3-wood, but it did not imprint the loft in the club but the catalog says it
is 15'. I loved it's playability but the low-flex shaft made the ball fly too
high (Memphis-10).
When I first saw this, I thought you meant golfers whose net score ain't
adjusted -- "scratch" golfers. Since I'm not even close, I let it pass.
But since you probably meant usenet golfers, I guess I do qualify after all.
All my clubs are homemade or home-modified. (No surprise to anyone who reads
my posts):
Driver - Acer M160J head, Hireko stiff shaft, 44". (Jumbo head, 10 degree,
short hosel, keel sole. LOVE IT!)
3,5 Metalwoods - Reshafted old Spaldings with new Dynamic Lite "R" shafts.
(Radial sole. Strong loft - 14 on #3 and 19 on #5 - plus Dynamic
shaft keep it low; I tend to hit a high trajectory.)
Irons - 2-9, PW, SW with Golfsmith Tour Model IV heads and TT Flex-Flow
shafts. (Works for me, like the heavily 4-way cambered soles.)
Putter - yeah, right! The putter du jour is probably one of 4, ranging from
an ancient brass flange that I reshafted and regripped to a clone of
Jack's huge-headed one from the late 80s (I use it for a round or
two when my line gets bad), to various clones of Ping Anser or B-60.
My wife's clubs are:
Driver - Daiwa graphite head and shaft. (Got it at a yard sale. Every man
I know skies the ball with it, but it fits her slower swing right.)
Irons - 3-9, PW with Acer 2001 heads and TT Lite "L" shafts.
Sand wedge - RAM ("Senator"?) 56 degree. (Got it at a yard sale, cut it to
length and regripped. It's really nice. Thinking of trying to
duplicate it for myself.)
Putters - whatever she feels comfortable with (there are about 10 righty and
two lefty putters around the house). Currently she likes the
Anser clones.
Early misstatement: I did NOT do anything to my wife's driver, and my mods
to her sand wedge are relatively minimal; so there are a couple of clubs
I'm not responsible for.
Dave
3 - p = Dunlop Tour Pro (Cheapies, will upgrade soon)
Putter = Ray Cook (brand new but so far I like it)
Tom Williams
3 Wood: Bill Butcher persimmon, S-400 stiff shaft, D3 swingweight
4 Wood: Macgregor Tourney Eye-o-matic persimmon, S-400 stiff shaft,
D3 swingweight
2-PW : Jack Nicklaus 20th Muirfields, S-400 stiff, D2 swingweight
SW(1) : Hogan, 56 degree beryllium copper (box grooved)
SW(2) : Wilson JP60 60 degree, Firestick shaft
Putter: Ping Anser
Ball : Titleist 100 tour balata
Grips : Victory half cords
Note: I carry either the 4 wood or the 2 iron depending on the course.
-Paul
3 Wood: H&B PowerBuilt
5 Wood: H&B PowerBuilt (never use it)
2-SW : Wilson 1200GE (Gear Effect 87 vintage)
Putter: Ping Anser (No Name Imitation, which I am soon going to lose
deeply in a water hazard)
Ball : Tour Edition
Grips : Golf Pride Victory
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I couldn't resist trying to build my own after seeing all the
positive discussion. So my new driver will soon be,
GolfSmith "Designated Driver" ( Oversized Carbon Fiber head ) with
Fenwick Aeroflex (stiff, graphite) shaft and Golf Pride Victory cord
grip. Club custom fitted at 43 1/2 inches.
That is if I can hit the thing.
Building Clubs is fun !!!! Thanks for all the net advice.
Kelly D. Doig
--
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Kelly D. Doig INTERNET : do...@bnr.ca |
| Bell-Northern Research, Ltd. PHONE : (613)763-2746 |
| Ottawa, Ontario, Canada PHYSICAL : Mer Twr 3 2nd Flr E5 |
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Thanks,
Chuck
--
Chuck Hubbert u4...@techops.cray.com
I have no idea if Callaway was a 14 degree three wood. I
was just retyping what was published in Golf Digest. I saw
the Wilson guys change the loft of John Daly's metal driver.
They just torched the crap out of the hosel and then bent
it. Probably not recommended for your amateur club maker.
If your 3-wood was going too high, wht don't use just change
the shaft and either get a stiffer flex or higher
flex-point?
Isaac (k...@bull.ucsd.edu)
Hope you like the Designated driver, I've been using one
all spring and simply love it. I put a Graffaloy M29 stiff
shaft in mine. Because I make alot of clubs, particularly
oversized drivers, and of course I MUST try them all. Cant
sell a club that doesnt work, right?;>) My driving has really
been suffering. So, decided to pick one and stay with.
Just a great club. I dont work for Golfsmith but I buy
alot of their parts.
Good luck.
Carl Mc Kinley
NIU
Putter used - Ping (can anyone tell me how to identify the model?
don't seem to be able to find it on the shaft).
--
+================================================================+
DISCLAIMER: Does it matter? Anyway, here it goes : Views/opinions
expressed are all mine, unless my employer wants them.
+----------------------------+-----------------------------------+
2-PW Haig Ultra with Lamkin leather grips and stiff shafts
- I've had these for years; beautiful feel when I hit the ball
in the sweet spot. Usually ditch the 2-iron.
3-PW Taylor Made Tour Preferred with S300 shafts (red dot)
- Long irons are real rocket launchers, but feel is not quite
as nice for the shorter irons.
As for the rest of my set makeup:
Driver - Taylor Made Tour Burner 10.5 degree with X100 shaft or
Wright and Ditson Persimmon Driver with S500 shaft
3 Wood - Taylor Made Tour Burner 15 degree with S300 shaft.
Wedges - any 3 of the following
Ram Tom Watson Scoring System - 55, 60 and 64 degree
Spalding Johnny Miller 58 degree
Taylor Made 61 degree
While I would carry the Ram set if I were completely
rational, I really feel more comfortable with my 7 year
old Johnny Miller. I also really like the new Taylor Made
wedge. So I usually end up carrying the TW 55, JM 58 and
TM 61's, which is really sad since I hit the first two
clubs almost the same length (just need more bounce than
the JM for soft sand - only reason I carry the 55).
Putter - Wilson Tour Forged III or something like that
Ball - Titleist Tour 100 or Tour Edition 100's (hate red numbers)
Brad Brisco
I'd really rather be golfing.
--
Brad Brisco
bbbr...@cayley.uwaterloo.ca
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Perl: one utility to rule them all and in the darkness bind them...
Irons: 3, 4: Golfsmith Tour Model IV w/TT Gold shafts - regular
5 - PW: ditto, but stiff.
Putter: Golfsmith "Bullseye" clone.
Bag: Eclipse.
Umbrella: Wilson, 62"
Shoes: Foot Joy
Ball retriever: 12 foot, generic model.
Tees/Ball Marks: Nevada Bobs private label, bulk purchase.
Hat: Galveston Island commemorative model, blue.
...Oops - I was just reminded that we're supposed to be listing clubs
only! :-)
;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-) ;-)
>If your 3-wood was going too high, wht don't use just change
>the shaft and either get a stiffer flex or higher
>flex-point?
That was the route I was going to take - until someone offered to buy the
entire 1-3-5 set.
Higher flex point -- yup!
Stiffer shaft -- I disagree.
Here's my experience (and a paraphrase from Anton Appel included).
I bought a set of Spalding XL4 metalwoods (1,3,5) at a yard sale late last
year. They have strong lofts (10, 14, and 19 degrees, respectively); I found
that attractive because I tend to hit a high shot.
When I got them out on the course, I was still hitting high, I was hitting
short, and (too often) I was hitting to the right. I hit some REAL BAD high
pushes, and even my good straight shots were shorter than I'd have expected.
Even so, I liked the way the head set up, so I tried to re-design them.
The shafts were TT ProFit "S" flex. I concluded that there was a reason
for each of the problems, associated with the shaft:
- Loss of length due to stiffness; I usually hit an "R".
- Height due to the Mid to Low-Mid bend point of the ProFit.
- Push/slice due to not getting my hands through the ball; ProFit is HEAVY.
In his response to another post of mine, Anton Appel shares his experience
that a high push can be due to a too-stiff shaft. While I don't understand
the mechanics of that effect, it's another possible explanation for what
happened to me.
Anyway.... Over the winter, I reshafted the 3 and 5 with the new Dynamic
Lite from TT. Lighter, high bend point, and I went to "R" flex. Since
then, I've been hitting longer, lower fairway woods than ever before in my
life, so I consider the experiment a raging success. Whether my diagnosis
or Anton's is right, the shaft I picked was the correct prescription.
Dave
PS- I didn't modify the driver because it's really not me at all. But I
thought it might fit my partner well, and his first nine holes with it has
borne out this guess.
>Just curious as to what clubs are favored by the "net" golfers out
>there. I am also trying to find out what the most favorite "clone"
>is.
>Thanks.
>Woods:
Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scot
Steel shaft - stiff (True Temper) Tour Step
>Irons:
3-sw, Tommy Armour 845 Silver Scot
G Force 2 graphite shafts (stiff)
Finesse wedge: 62 deg Square Two 17-4pcx
Steel shaft: regular stiffness, True Temper
>Putter:
Broom-handled long putter ala Rocco Mediate
Can't recall brand, but I putt straight with it.
>Balls:
Bullet .444, yellow 90 comp.
Tim Emry
Care of Randy Emry
Lincoln, Ne internet: bi...@unlinfo.unl.edu
If you want a strong fairway wood, try the Langert Super Spoon at 12.75 degrees.
>When I got them out on the course, I was still hitting high, I was hitting
>short, and (too often) I was hitting to the right. I hit some REAL BAD high
>pushes, and even my good straight shots were shorter than I'd have expected.
>Even so, I liked the way the head set up, so I tried to re-design them.
>
>The shafts were TT ProFit "S" flex. I concluded that there was a reason
>for each of the problems, associated with the shaft:
> - Loss of length due to stiffness; I usually hit an "R".
> - Height due to the Mid to Low-Mid bend point of the ProFit.
> - Push/slice due to not getting my hands through the ball; ProFit is HEAVY.
>
>In his response to another post of mine, Anton Appel shares his experience
>that a high push can be due to a too-stiff shaft. While I don't understand
>the mechanics of that effect, it's another possible explanation for what
>happened to me.
I could see that if your club head speed is a regular flex speed (90 mph ??),
and you try to swing a stiff shaft, the club face will never get a chance
to snap to square. If the clubface is lagging and open at impact, the
shot will go high, short, and to the right.
>Anyway.... Over the winter, I reshafted the 3 and 5 with the new Dynamic
>Lite from TT. Lighter, high bend point, and I went to "R" flex. Since
>then, I've been hitting longer, lower fairway woods than ever before in my
>life, so I consider the experiment a raging success. Whether my diagnosis
>or Anton's is right, the shaft I picked was the correct prescription.
>
>Dave
When I suggested a stiffer shaft to hit the ball lower, I implied that his
swing speed was fast enough for the stiffer shaft. If his swing speed is
not fast enough for the stiffer shaft, then it would be a mistake to go
for the stiffer shaft to lower the shot trajectory.
My swing speed is between an extra-stiff and a stiff. I am constantly changing
between extra-stiff X-100's or Apex 5's and stiff S-300's or Apex 4 shafts in my
woods and irons. When I hit an extra-stiff, the ball does go lower, straighter,
but shorter. With stiff shafts, the ball goes higher and longer, but sometimes
bends sideways a litte too much. I find that my distances are more repeatable
with stiff shafts and that is why I am playing irons with S-300's. The extra-
stiff shafts has a greater range of distances for each club, but generally goes
straighter - which is why I have them in my woods right now.
Isaac (k...@bull.ucsd.edu)
Driver: Callaway Big Bertha, 8 degree loft, Graphite/Boron HM-40 shaft
(I can't seem to hit it consistently).
3-wood: Wilson X-31 vintage approx 1970. Reshafted a few times with a
True Temper stiff shaft.
Irons: Callaway S2H2 irons 1-Lob. (carry 2-SW)
Putter: Wilson 8802 forged with oversized leather grip.
Ball: Titleist Tour Balata 90.
Grips: Victory grips on all clubs except the 3-wood which has a velvet
cord victory grip. I hope to regrip all irons with leather and all woods
with cord.
Other clubs I have and use from time to time (my old set):
Driver: MacGregor Persimmon 11 degrees with a True Temper stiff shaft and
a cord grip.
Irons: 1-10 iron, MacGregor Tourney Custom vintage 1972(?), 1/2 inch long
D0 with extra long leather grips.
Putter: Otey Crisman hickory shaft, small head.
Paul Kamp
Pacer Software, Inc.
Internet: p...@pacersoft.com
AppleLink: PACER
I'm a little late, but I'll get into this discussion :
Woods : Wilson Staff 1,3,5 stiff
Irons : PGA Ryder Cup II (has anyone heard of these?) 2-pw
Putter : Hogan radial (forgot the model)
Ball : Whatever (I prefer 90 compression Ultra's, Titlist's, and Staff's)
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
* David C. Yeh, Ph.D. Texas Instruments, Design Automation Division *
* dav...@dadd.ti.com P.O. Box 650311, MS 3937, Dallas TX 75265 *
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
> Irons: PGA Ryder Cup II (has anyone heard of these?) 2-pw
I've got the same set and really enjoy playing with them. They
are hard to hit at times, but when I'm in the groove -- watch out!
My grandfather gave me the set back in '84 and I have been playing
with them since.
Woods: Mizuno Shadow Metal Woods
Putter: Ping Anser 3
Random garage sale crap.
--J.J.
(payne roolz!)
Driver: Dunlop SP2000 with a graphite shaft. I got this thing on clearance
at a discount sporting goods place for ~$20, and hit it straight, but sort
of short. On occasion I use a Powerbilt persimmon driver that I can absolutely
crush, but I endanger everyone within a 300 yd radius with it.
3-wood: A First Flight that was given to me by my dad. I
would guess this puppy to be early 70's vintage, and it is in really bad
shape. I do hit it well.
Irons: A Cobra 1-iron that is my typical driving club. 2-9 Powerbilt
Citations (relatively old). Three wedges (50, 55, 60 degrees) by RAM.
Putter: A Ping Zero putter with an oversized Tiger Shark grip.
All of my clubs have full cord grips, built up with extra tape (2 xtra on
the longer clubs, 3 on the mid-irons, 4 on the short irons), and I use
Hogan 392LS balls.
I manage to do quite well with this mismatched set, but I think I would
be more consistent if I were to break down and purchase a new, matched set
of clubs.
--Rich
--
Richard W. Thompson
3339 Mission Ridge Lane
Atlanta, GA 30339
Internet: gt2...@prism.gatech.edu
Later in the article, Isaac writes:
>My swing speed is between an extra-stiff and a stiff.
>I am constantly changing
>between extra-stiff X-100's or Apex 5's and stiff S-300's
or Apex 4 shafts in my
>woods and irons.
>When I hit an extra-stiff, the ball does go lower, straighter, but shorter.
>With stiff shafts, the ball goes higher and longer, but sometimes
>bends sideways a litte too much. I find that my distances are more repeatable
>with stiff shafts and that is why I am playing irons with S-300's. The extra-
>stiff shafts has a greater range of distances for each club,
>but generally goes
>straighter - which is why I have them in my woods right now.
I agree with Isaac's second statement, but it seems to contradict the first.
My experience also agrees, in that:
- If I swing a too-flexible shaft, I hit it to the right, because I get
the clubhead through the ball before it gets a chance to close.
- If I swing a too-stiff shaft, I lose distance (and sometimes, but not
always, height). However, the clubface is more intimately connected
to my grip and it never lags my hands as it would with a too-flexible
shaft.
Sorry, but I still don't understand why a too-stiff shaft should result
in a shot to the right. And I don't think either Isaac's experience or
mine supports the assertion that it would.
Dave
--
Ross Dargahi (ro...@rice.edu) Rice University,
Member of The Technical Staff 4200 South Shepherd,
Off. of VP for Research, Info. Sys, & Grad. Studies Suite 250,
Tel: 713.523.0175 * Fax: 713.523.0259 Houston, Texas 77098, USA.
HELLO
THE CLUBS THAT I AM PLAYING WITH ARE
TAYLOR MADE DIRVER 8.5
TAYLOR MADE TOUR SPOON 13. DEGREES
MCGREGOR JNP'S 1 IRON - SANDWEDGE
PUTTER PING ANSWER FOUR WITH FOUR STRIPS OF LEAD TAP
PING SANDWEDGE BENT TO 62. DEGRESS
AND TRY TO PLAY HVC 100 OR TOPFLIGHT TOUR 100
HOPE THIS IS ENOUGH
MARK (P.G.M.) WOODY
Woods are all Taylor Made Midsize.
Driver: 11.5 degrees
3-wood: 15 degree raylor (The star of the set)
5-wood: 21 degree raylor
IRONS: Clevland Classics VAS 792's
WEDGES: VAS Also (48, 56 degrees)
PUTTER: Ping Answer 5K stainless
BALL: Top Flight Magna Low Tragectory
>Here's my experience (and a paraphrase from Anton Appel included).
Thanks Dave!
>The shafts were TT ProFit "S" flex. I concluded that there was a reason
>for each of the problems, associated with the shaft:
> - Loss of length due to stiffness; I usually hit an "R".
-----Reason being is that you probably do not swing hard, and a stiff
shaft will hurt you in that case.
> - Height due to the Mid to Low-Mid bend point of the ProFit.
Height can be caused by a few things. Not always the flex pioint.
Usually it is caused by how the player strikes the ball. You will notice
that the 'sweepers' willl hit lower shots. While the 'strikers' (those of
us who come down on the ball will hit them much higher.
> - Push slice due to not getting my hands through the ball; ProFit is HEAVY.
>
>In his response to another post of mine, Anton Appel shares his experience
>that a high push can be due to a too-stiff shaft. While I don't understand
>the mechanics of that effect, it's another possible explanation for what
>happened to me.
>
I wil try to describe what happens when a shaft is too stiff for a
person.
A person that swings easily, and relaxed, (under 100 mph) needs
the shaft to do some of the work in comming through the ball. that is what
a 'R' shaft does. Most people don't realize that a shaft is bent FORWARD
when connecting with the ball. Seems odd, I know but it's true.
So a 'R' shaft will snap through the ball quicker for you to get
through the ball easier.
Where as a stiff shaft will 'snap' through much slower, allowing
for the fact that the golfer is swinging much faster and will get the club
thorugh the ball faster himself, without the need for hel;p from the shaft.
SO FINALLY, if a slow swinging person takes a stiff shaft club and
takes his normal swing the club is not going to come through the ball as
he/she is accusomed to. thus you get a push-slice.
On the other side if a hard swinger was to take a regular shafted
club the effects can be one of two things.
1: If you normally hit a draw, it will turn into a HUGE duck hook.
2: If you hit a fade, be ready for a banana slice.
]Hope that helps you Dave, and everybody else.
Anton, or Tony. or Anthony....who cares
Irons: 1987 Wilson Staff red dot.
Woods: Driver is Taylor Burner Plus 7.5, Flex Twist shaft (quiet dave) :)
3-5 woods are Spalding executive XE's.
Putter: Spalding 'Cash In'---worlds greatest putter :)
Sorry so late in reply
Anton
3,5,7 woods - Orlimar mid size Diamonds/w Brunswick UCV-304 shafts / stiff
Irons 3-sw tour model 5s/w TT Lite shafts flex reg.
Putter - Ping Anser 2
Ball - Pinacle gold
Grips - Tour wrap mid size
-Al
Dave,
I described what happens to the ball when I swing either an extra-stiff
or stiff shaft. I thing my swing speed can handle an extra-stiff shaft,
which means my swing speed can get the club back to square after it flexes
open at the start of the downswing.
I never described what happens when I swing a shaft which is too stiff
for me. I have tried the Aldila HM-55 Strong, and this thing is a telephone
pole. All my shots with this shaft go weakly to the right.
This is why (I think) a too-stiff shaft results in a shot to the right.
If everything goes correctly in your backswing, the clubface is square at
the top. At the start of the downswing, the clubhead has inertia and resists
the initial downward and twisting force caused by your arms and wrists at
the grip. The delay in movement of the clubhead to the force applied at the
grip is made up by a bending and twisting of the shaft, which will open the
clubface with respect to your hand position at the grip.
In the first part of the downswing, most of the clubhead speed is derived from
the arms moving downward. As the wrists approach the impact position, the arm
speed is slowed and most of the clubhead speed is taken up by the wrists
uncocking. At this crutial point, the grip end of the club does not move very
much as the it waits for the shaft to unbend and untwist - releasing it's
stored energy into the golf ball. This will also cause the clubface to go
from open to square. After the delay at impact, the arm speed picks again -
moving the grip end upward and outward to the finish.
If you have the correct flex for your swing speed, the amount of delay in the
arm speed will provide enough time for the wrist speed to release the shaft
(also called "timing the hit") at impact.
Now suppose you try to swing a shaft which is too stiff for your swing speed.
At the start of the downswing, the shaft will not bend or twist as much as
you are is used to, but will still be open and lagged with respect to
your hands. At the impact position, your normal arm swing delay and wrist
speed will not provide enough time for the clubface to bend and twist back
to square at the ball. The result will be an open face at impact and a weak
shot to the right. The loss of distance is results from: (1) shaft not
getting a chance to release completely and thus not maximizing the transfer of
energy stored up in the shaft, and (2) the shaft being bent and twisted
less than the optimal amount during the downswing due to too slow a swing
speed.
At least I think this is what happens.
Isaac (k...@bull.ucsd.edu)
>>In his response to another post of mine, Anton Appel shares his experience
>>that a high push can be due to a too-stiff shaft. While I don't understand
>>the mechanics of that effect, it's another possible explanation for what
>>happened to me.
>>
> I wil try to describe what happens when a shaft is too stiff for a
>person.
> A person that swings easily, and relaxed, (under 100 mph) needs
>the shaft to do some of the work in comming through the ball. that is what
>a 'R' shaft does. Most people don't realize that a shaft is bent FORWARD
>when connecting with the ball. Seems odd, I know but it's true.
It also flexes concave upwards as well as impact.
> So a 'R' shaft will snap through the ball quicker for you to get
>through the ball easier.
> Where as a stiff shaft will 'snap' through much slower, allowing
>for the fact that the golfer is swinging much faster and will get the club
>thorugh the ball faster himself, without the need for hel;p from the shaft.
I'm not too sure about this. I was under the impression that no matter
how hard you swing (70 mph to 115 mph), the shaft does most of the work
to get the ball going. For someone that swings slow, a more flexible
shaft is needed so there will be some bend in the shaft during the
downswing (which unbends or 'snaps' to provide more velocity at impact).
As your clubhead speed gets faster and faster, a stiffer shaft is
required (so you don't get too much bend), but it still will bent a
significant amount and the 'snapping' of the stiffer shafts will be still
be important in adding clubhead velocity at impact.
It would be interesting to measure the clubhead speed of someone who swings
a regular shafted driver with a shaft that does not flex at all, and
then compare it to the clubhead speed using the regular shaft to see
how more more extra clubhead speed they get from the shaft.
Then do the same two measurements for a normal stiff shaft golfer and
extra-stiff shaft golfer. My guess is that the percentage of extra club
head speed you get due to the shaft will be about the same in the three cases.
Isaac (k...@bull.ucsd.edu)
Irons: 2-9, PW, SW Ping Eye2+ Beryllium Copper, Ping Eye2 1 iron
Driver: Taylor Made Tour Burner, 7 degree loft, titanium shaft
3 wood: Taylor Made Tour Burner, 13 degree loft, stiff steel shaft
Putter: Ping Pal4
Ball: Maxfli Balata, 100 compression
--
Jerry Gardner (je...@isi.com) | "Violence is the last refuge of
Integrated Systems, Inc. | the incompetent" - Isaac Asimov
Woods: Driver - Taylor Made Tour Burner (9.5 degrees, stiff titanium)
3-Wood - Taylor Made Tour Burner (15 degrees, stiff steel (s300u))
Irons: 1 - PW - Ram Tour Grind
SW - Cleveland Classics Tour Action 485 (56 degrees)
Putter: Ping Anser 3
Ball: Spaulding Tour Edition 100
The Tour Edition ball is pretty good. It spins more than surlyn, but not
as much as balata, and as far as durability goes, it's not as rugged
surlyn but more durable than balata. Very consistent though in terms of
distance. I use it cause it'll "work" more than surlyn and I can't afford
balata.
--
/*************************************************************************
David K. Lannigan
Analog Devices Inc. Email: david.l...@analog.com
Digital Signal Processing Division Voice: (617)461-3128
3 Technology Way FAX: (617)461-4400
Norwood, MA 02062-9106
*************************************************************************/