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760 is about a millions times faster, IMHO. This is not a good thing, also
IMHO.
My guess is that 760 will last longer because there is less friction between the
cloth and the balls. If there is indeed any friction.
Despite what the web page says, I think 860 is FAR more common than 760. I've
only ever seen 760 on one room's pool tables, and that was like 12 years ago. I
see 860 everywhere.
--
Dave <--- wonders if this will get double-posted
Hugh(LCS)
barenada <da...@spamsucks.barenada.com> wrote in message
news:t42etrr...@corp.supernews.com...
Becky
Earl Timmons <snipped>
>760 is a little faster
Deno is the cloth expert here. He will give you the truth. I firmly believe
this.
Here is my experience(a casual playing know nothing who just reserved a room
for Derby City Classic--anyone want to put me up and save me some money?)
I have played on the rugs by Mali and whatever. They are rugs. Nothing wrong
with that. They just don't play the same.
Simonis860?--It seems to burn very easily. I have had brand new simonis 860
on my home table for about a month and it already has the 9 ball break "V"
burn mark. 760 does the same thing. Granito?--I don't know. Deno?
I allow jumps and masse's on my home table but the current one month wear is
not from any of those. It is just from being used. The bulk of the burn
marks are from hard breaks.
I do know the Granito Basalt has a higher wool content and therefore a lower
nylon content. They tell me it is the nylon that causes the burn marks.
Therefore given equal use the Granito basalt should burn less than the
simonis 860 if the use is the same.
Otto
Bvinco <bvi...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20001220205750...@ng-ff1.aol.com...
My table is located in a basement which, during the spring and summer
months, picks up a lot of humidity. I run a dehumidifier, of course, but
the cloth still picks up moisture which slows things down. I have found
that, by switching to 760 at home, my table plays at about the same speed as
the S860 covered tables at the pool hall (2nd floor above ground) where the
conditions seem to be more arid than in my basement.
Ken Bour
<chri...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:91rchm$rgj$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
This is as good as I could have put it! There is another thing to
remember...when on a home table, there is nothing to compare the cloth
to in the same room. Those tables tend to get a lot less play and any
marks tend to really stand out. Whereas in the pool room, all the cloth
wears at approx. the same rate, so that no one table looks much worse
than the others. But if you were to take a pool room cloth off and take
it home to compare with the home table cloth, there will most likely be
a huge difference; the cloth will look more faded. This is true because
there are so many burn marks that they just don't stand out like the
ones on the home tables, but the home tables color is much more
vibrant. This is assuming of course we are talking about worsteds.
Deno
These things are probably true, but this does not affect adversely the amount
of draw that you can get. The only thing that "bite" (i.e. higher friction)
can do to affect the amount of draw is to rub off the backspin before the cue
ball hits the object ball. After it the collision, and given the same spin and
speed on the cue ball in the two cases, the final speed and final angle that
the cue ball achieves does not depend on the cloth friction. On a slicker
cloth, the ball will slide for a longer time, but it will accelerate slower
while doing so, and the two things cancel out EXACTLY as far as the final ball
speeds and angles are concerned.
$.02 -Ron Shepard
> After it the collision, and given the same spin and
> speed on the cue ball in the two cases, the final speed and final angle that
> the cue ball achieves does not depend on the cloth friction.
A picky point: I think most people think of the cue ball's "final
angle" as a straight line from the location of the collision to where
the cue ball ends up, rather than as the straight line on which it's
rolling after it stops curving. So if the cue ball describes a wider
parabola (as it would on slicker cloth) and arrives at a different end
point, it will appear to most that the "final angle" is wider, even
though the final rolling lines are parallel.
Pat Johnson
Chicago
Yes, for some shots this is an important difference. For a straight back draw
shot, the angle part isn't important, it is the final ball speed, or the
resulting distance, that everyone thinks about. Some people think that "bite"
is better for such a draw shot. My point is that "bite" (meaning high
ball-cloth friction) always hurts, and never helps, in getting distance on a
simple draw shot.
$.02 -Ron Shepard
I have no trouble at all drawing on my S760 and it seems to be slightly
easier than the S860. Of course, the stroke has more to do with good draw
than the type of cloth, IMO.
Ken Bour
<chri...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:91t9ii$a12$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
::Otto wrote:
::> I do know the Granito Basalt has a higher wool content and therefore a lower
::> nylon content. They tell me it is the nylon that causes the burn marks.
::> Therefore given equal use the Granito basalt should burn less than the
::> simonis 860 if the use is the same.
::
::This is as good as I could have put it! < snip >
::Deno
Deno:
Do you have any objective speed measurements for Granito v.
Simonis and the various cloth models? Perhaps the table speed
test numbers? Where does Basalt fall with respect to S760 and
S860?
Are you saying that Basalt gets speed and trueness and like
S860 without as much nylon? If so, are there any tradeoffs for
that (for example, does nylon add durability)?
tom simpson
Deno
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In article <dag84tsb0rd7nnvim...@4ax.com>, tom simpson