reasonable cue for mediocre player
TC
Hello all,
Not wishing to join the "Joint Dynamic (was Huebler Cues)" brouhaha, I
thought I'd post a related question with a new subject line.
I'm a mediocre (but enthusiastic) player and I don't own a cue. I'd
like to get one to avoid getting stuck with some darned warped 18 ounce cue
with a tip like a pat of butter, as often happens in a crowded bar, but I
really don't play well enough to justify spending big bucks. Is there any
point in spending, say, $100-$200 on a cue? Given my game, all I figure
I really need is a cue that's straight, the right weight and has a decent tip.
Are there any reasonably good mass-produced cues in that price range, or am I
dreaming?
Regards,
TC
Ghosst
I don't know about the availability of Dufferin cues in your area, but
several of their models in varying joint styles, are well suited to
first-time buyers. They are made in Canada, and are of exceptional quality.
If you ever have any problems with one, even if you decide you don't like
the look of the stain, they'll usually replace the cue for you, at no
charge.
Hueblers, which was the orginial subject, also makes fine cues that aren't
overly pricey.
PS: I'd recommend you see their cues and decide on the joint style you want
first if you're looking into Dufferin.
Sincerely,
Ghosst
http://home.ican.net/~ghosst
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
TC wrote in message <6aqek2$pck$1...@news1.norlight.net>...
David Sapolis
TC <thomas...@spamfree.retek.com> wrote in article
<6aqek2$pck$1...@news1.norlight.net>...
> Hello all,
>
> Not wishing to join the "Joint Dynamic (was Huebler Cues)"
brouhaha, I
> thought I'd post a related question with a new subject line.
> Are there any reasonably good mass-produced cues in that price range, or
am I
> dreaming?
>
> Regards,
> TC
>
TC,
I don't wish to start a war either, but I believe that you can find
something reasinably priced to suit your needs at this point in time.
Whenever I have bought a new cue, or more recently had onemade for me, I go
through a process of learning. I will not automatically shoot as I did
with the cue's predecessor. It's like changing girlfriends. You go through
the courtship, and get to know them (well at least some of do, some of of
prefer the women of the house cue variety, pick them up off the rack and
put them back when we're finished with them). Your mind and bpdy will
become accustomed to the results that you get with your cue and your game
will adjust to it accordingly. This has been my experience, whether I have
shot with a $100 McDermott, or a $1000 joss. In 1987 I bought a McDermott
D-21 that I still use today. I've found it hard to part with it, but I
have recently switched to a custom made cue that I am still adjusting to.
I would reccommend McDermott because I have the most experience with that
line. Meucci, Heubler, Mali, Viking, and Cuetec also make fine, reasonably
priced cues for under $250. How long they last, how well, and how long
they perform is directly proportional to how you take care of it.
Good luck
Blackjack
Stoney
TC wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Not wishing to join the "Joint Dynamic (was Huebler Cues)" brouhaha, I
> thought I'd post a related question with a new subject line.
>
> like to get one to avoid getting stuck with some darned warped 18 ounce cue
> with a tip like a pat of butter, as often happens in a crowded bar, but I
> really don't play well enough to justify spending big bucks. Is there any
> point in spending, say, $100-$200 on a cue? Given my game, all I figure
> I really need is a cue that's straight, the right weight and has a decent tip.
> dreaming?
>
> Regards,
> TC
The justification for buying your own cue is consistency. With
consistency you will develop a better game, become more knowledgeable of
your personal cue preferences and perhaps move from mediocre to a higher
level of play.
As far as quality and price goes, ANY cue will "warp" if improperly
treated. The chances of a cue warping decrease with the reputation of
the manufacturer and the care with which they condition the component
parts prior to assembly and finishing. Any of the "name" brands (I
won't list any for fear of leaving one out and offending someone) should
provide you with a good product. Additionally, I think most of the
custom cuemakers can or do produce at least one or two cues in the
$200.00 range and it would be well worth your doing some checking
around.
Until you become better educated on the subject of pool cues it is not
so important as to "where" to purchase a cue, but rather "where not" to
buy one. Stay away from pawn shops, discount stores, classified ads in
the newspaper or any retail/wholesale establishment that sells billiard
equipment as a sideline.
Regards,
Stoney
Patrick Greenwald
>
> Not wishing to join the "Joint Dynamic (was Huebler Cues)"
brouhaha, I
> thought I'd post a related question with a new subject line.
>
> I'm a mediocre (but enthusiastic) player and I don't own a cue.
I'd
> like to get one to avoid getting stuck with some darned warped 18 ounce
cue
> with a tip like a pat of butter, as often happens in a crowded bar, but I
> really don't play well enough to justify spending big bucks. Is there any
> point in spending, say, $100-$200 on a cue? Given my game, all I figure
> I really need is a cue that's straight, the right weight and has a decent
tip.
> Are there any reasonably good mass-produced cues in that price range, or
am I
> dreaming?
>
Actually I think in this range you can get an excellent cue, There are
quite a
cue makers who make "Sneaky Pete's", there not much to look at and if you
bring
it out keep an eye on it. JMO
--
Pat Greenwald
PGree...@xta.com
Carl
Check.. http://www.cuestore.com
The have a great range of cues and prices. I bought a McDermott from there
the other day....
Carl
Smorgass Bored
TC,
This cue question comes up OFTEN and I usually let one of the MANY cue
experts give their answers,but I 'might' take a stab at your question
(in part).
The problem with buying 'just' a cheap straight cue,is that you get
what you pay for.
Cheap construction makes them easily broken and prone to warping. After
a little play,you end up with a 'pat of butter' tip (like a cheap house
cue) anyway.
If you think you are going to be playing pool for a number of
years,spend the extra money and get a good quality 'sneaky pete' or
maybe a Dufferin.
For the list of the 'best to Buy' cues, I will once again defer to
the Experts...
Doug W.
~>*) Big Fish EAT Little Fish (*<~
Redeye
Just a quick note to add to the helpful comments here: when you are looking at
cues, I would seriously recommend staying away from any cue that has a finish all
the way down the shaft.
For those of us who have experience with cues and billiards sports, this is
obvious. I can remember when I was first getting serious about pool, and looking
to buy my first cue (It was a McDermott and I still have it), I didn't realize
this. Luckily, I was learning the game from some much more billiards experienced
friends, and they pointed me towards some good quality, lower-range cues. If I
hadn't had their input, I might have settled for something a bit cheaper but much
less worth buying.
When you see the very cheap cues in, for example, a department store, much of the
time the whole shaft will have a finish applied to it. When you try shooting with
this cue, although it might be straight (for a while), and somewhat sturdy (for a
while), the shaft will rub your fingers like the gym floor used to do to your skin
in high school dodgeball. Chances are that the shaft will be deader than a Sunday
School Meeting in a nudey bar, also.
Pay attention to the shaft of the cues you look at the most; for your first cue,
this will probably be the most important aspect. As you will probably want
something relatively inexpensive, the butt will probably be pretty plain, and will
develop (at least mine did) a lot of dings as you take it everywhere, trying to
bring your game up. As you use your cue, you will begin to develop an
understanding of weight, flex, taper, and perhaps even (egad) squirt, and will be
much more informed when you go to buy your next cue (and you will want another
one, trust me).
Just a quick note; I don't really know how much you understand about cues, so I'm
not sure if it helps.
--
Dave
TC wrote:
> [clip]
> Are there any reasonably good mass-produced cues in that price range, or am I
> dreaming?
> [clip]
gr...@inland.net
There are cuemakers out there, probably in your area, who can make you a
sneaky pete for around $200. I have played with sneaky petes that play just
as well as the most expensive custom cue you can find. Higher price does
not necessarily mean better quality.
Good luck,
Greg
Ron Hudson
On Fri, 30 Jan 1998 04:35:37 GMT, Jack W. Hogan <zh...@ix.netcom.com>
wrote:
>In article <34D0C5...@tconl.com>,
> Stoney <wst...@tconl.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>Until you become better educated on the subject of pool cues it is not
>>so important as to "where" to purchase a cue, but rather "where not" to
>>buy one. Stay away from pawn shops, discount stores, classified ads in
>>the newspaper or any retail/wholesale establishment that sells billiard
>>equipment as a sideline.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Stoney
>>
>
>IMHO you can really miss out on some terrific steals if you dismiss pawn shops from your search. In my own experience I have found some dynamite deals at pawn shops. The latest being a Helmstetter 3 cushion cue that retails for $400+ that I paid the uninformed pawn broker $75 for. And it was in near perfect condition. I have bought and later resold severals cues at pawn shops always showing a profit in the bargain. The trick is to know what to look for and look at when you see something that may interest you. Having this wonderful informational tool of the Net to check out the pedigree of something is beyond compare. Many pawn shops just don't have any idea what the value of what is on their shelves. It is like finding a valuable antique at a garage sale, their loss is our gain.
>
>"Loose Rack" Jack
Before you get a bunch of replies about how you are STEALING FROM and
taking advantage of the Pawn Shop owner, let me add this: It's not
really the owners loss - he knows what he paid for the item and he's
marked it up accordingly. He is making the profit he needs to run his
business and that's why he priced the item as he did.
And here's something else you can try. Some pawn shop owners won't
take cues because they don't know the value of them. I have found
that if you offer to share information with them, you can pick up
some bargains working with those guys. They know they can't know the
value of everything that comes in the door, and they like having a
source of information.
Ron
BHW4Canes
Pawn shops are OK if you know what you are doing. I see many cues for sale in
pawn shops that are cracked. Players probably break it, then pawn it off,
knowing their friends won't buy a cracked cue from them. But, the unknowing
pawnbroker will. Also beware of unknowing salespersons assuming that because
THEY have heard of the name brand, it's worth a mint. I see plenty of $125
cues, with asking prices of $300-$400. Never pay that for a used stick in a
pawn shop. If they won't deal, walk. Don't tell all your buds if you find a
steal in a pawnshop though, or the secret will get out. Next thing you know,
they will all buy the Blue Book and start charging accordingly.
BHW4Canes
>It's not
>really the owners loss - he knows what he paid for the item and he's
>marked it up accordingly.
If they sell you something for $100, I guarantee they didn't give the seller
more than $10-15 for it. They aren't in the charity business. No pawnbroker
ever took a beating selling an item.
Robert W. Johnson
From what I've seen, their prices seem to be 15 to 20% below "suggested
retail". I haven't ordered a cue from them, but I did just order a Porper
case, and got exactly what was promised at the lowest price I could find.
Bob
Carl wrote in message <01bd2cef$bb75b020$a0c1...@csubick.erols.com>...
john walkup
gr...@inland.net wrote:
> There are cuemakers out there, probably in your area, who can make you a
> sneaky pete for around $200. I have played with sneaky petes that play just
> as well as the most expensive custom cue you can find. Higher price does
> not necessarily mean better quality.
I agree. The Sneaky Petes I sell are some of my best-hitting cues. And if
you
decide to later get something fancy they make a good break cue.
John
john walkup
Robert W. Johnson wrote:
I am glad you didn't order a cue from them, since I sell Schuler cues at
around30% below retail. :)
John
john walkup
john walkup wrote:
Sorry everyone, but I did not mean to post this. I meant to email it, but I
have beenusing Netscape to post lately (hence the change to john walkup instead
of John
Walkup) and I haven't gotten used to the new format.
John
Robert Parsons
I have a story (I know they all start this way, but this is the truth)
I knew a guy that kept trolling the pawn shops here in Detroit, being
somewhat interested in repairing cues that aren't a lost cause. The guy
brought a cue to me to re-finish and wrap, clean up two shafts. No
problem...
Until I looked at the Buttcap... J the W... Yep this guy found an old
Joss west... gave the pawn broker 45.00 for it... (Not cracked, just
dirty...)I put two chandevert tips on it, and gave it back to him, not
until I hit a few balls with it to see if it had any rattles...Typical
Bill Strowd workmanship.. solid as a rock... A rather plain example but
I offered him 600.00 for it... He laughed...
So it does happen...
Nascar101a
Smorg ASS wrote:
>This cue question comes up OFTEN and I usually let one of the MANY cue
>experts give their answers,but I 'might' take a stab at your question
>(in part). The problem with buying 'just' a cheap straight cue,is that you
get
>what you pay for.
>Cheap construction makes them easily broken and prone to warping. After
>a little play,you end up with a 'pat of butter' tip (like a cheap house
>cue) anyway. If you think you are going to be playing pool for a number of
>years,spend the extra money and get a good quality 'sneaky pete' or
>maybe a Dufferin.
> For the list of the 'best to Buy' cues, I will once again defer to
>the Experts...
YOU are absolutely correct...you should defer to someone that knows what they
are talking about!!! Stick to the food bar...you can run that one
out. LOL
Nascar101
Smorgass Bored
Nascar101a , back out of jail for a time wrote:
his usual Nothing...... IMO
Aren't you violating probation by posting here again? IMO
MKlein9823
You know, Viking makes a nice cue. They have sneaky petes (look like bar room
cues) that hit nice and solid. They run around
$200 retail (can probably get one new for $150). Other cues that are nice are
McDermont and Mali.
I'm not sure how often you play pool, but if you play a couple times a week, it
might be worth it.
Mark
Sascha Pawlowski
> I'm a mediocre (but enthusiastic) player and I don't own a cue. I'd
>like to get one to avoid getting stuck with some darned warped 18 ounce cue
>with a tip like a pat of butter, as often happens in a crowded bar, but I
>really don't play well enough to justify spending big bucks. Is there any
>point in spending, say, $100-$200 on a cue? Given my game, all I figure
In that price range I'd look for a used cue. Try many different cues
to find out what you like best.
Bye
Sascha
Bradley cook
A guy around here brought a cue to Danny Tibbits to refinish. He'd
bought it in a pawn shop with a nice old McDermott case for $200-300.
It was a fairly nice Joss West probably worth over $1000... Not a bad
deal. :)
Ed Mercier
What are the chances that a pool player would sell his Joss West at a
pawnbroker? Wouldn't any half sane pool player try and find another pool
player to sell their cue to, since it's clear that a pawnbroker would have no
idea how valuable a Joss West is?
The only reason I mention this is because a good buddy of mine had his Joss
West stolen within the past year. It was probably a twenty year old model,
and I think he had been playing with it all along. The typical bozo who
would steal a cue, would probably sell it at a pawnbrokers. They would
probably have no idea what the value is of the cue they just ripped off. For
all those pool players who find a "great deal" on a cue at a pawnbroker's
shop, their's probably another pool player who would like to strangle the
person that stole his cue.
I'm not saying I wouldn't be happy about finding a great deal. Just realize
how you probably came by your good fortune.
FCISA
Around here players go bust on a daily basis and cues change hands in place of
stakes quite often by players. Alot of cues are stolen ,out opf cars home
burglurys etc.but for the most part the original owners get hard up and take
what they can get where they can get it. Pawn shops generally have little or
no idea what things othe than common everyday items are worth and on cues loan
a relatively small amount . The key here is it almost always is a loan,
renwable within a certain time frame, many items are "lost" by customers who
have made payments for a long period of time at a very high rate of interes to
keep from defaulting on the loan until they can redeem their merchandise. Here
in texas the interest rate on pawn loans is 240% !! You read that right 240 !
Many times when an item is pawned the loan is made based on what the customer
wants to borrow and can be any figure under what pawnbroker asseses value at.
On any item they can verify retail the maximum loan is usually no more than 25%
of going prices. Ask any pawnbroker how long people will pay this kind of
interest to keep a loan active and you would be surprised, Most shops have
customers who pay regular monthly payments for long periods of time ,some times
years which rapidly covers the principal amount and allows them to collect pure
profit on interest for however long an individual is willing to pay to keep the
item in their name . having to still come up with the original loan amount to
redeem an item. If at any time customer misses a payment the item becomes the
property of the pawn shop to do with whatever they please. example ,aguy goes
in to get a loan on a 1000.00 pool cue and gets the maximum loan of 25% or
250.00, not very likely actually as the cue will have some wear and the owner
many times is expecting to redeem it in full only paying a minimum amount of
interest, but this very rarely happens. at 240% this now becomes of value to
th pawn shop of $600.00 annualy! With $50.00 dollar monthly payments on the
item. If the owner of the merchandise makes no payments the shp has "bought"
the cue for the loan value, Keep in mind a lot of people will ask for only a 50
to 100 dollar loan "knowing" they will get the item back, just like they
"Knew" they would win their money back if they played long enough.
The other obvious scenario for pawning items is to "hide" them indefinately due
to divorce bankruptcy etc. an individual can pawn an item for an extremely low
dollar figure and discretely make payments until it is safe to redeem, many
folks use this as an alternative to a storage facility as the pawn shop is a
secure and safe place with insurance , beats leaving at your brother in laws
house where it will undoubtedly will get used in bar games and lost or stolen
by him or one of his freinds or family members, this happens all the time.
Many situations can arise to keep the origanal owner from redeeming his /her
goods. People die, go to prison, move away, never recover financially, lose
their pawn ticket and so on. shps will then liquidate the item for as much as
they can get starting high and reducing prices every 30 days until the item
sells.
Figures used are for example only and will vary from place to place. If you
decide to buy ANYTHING at a pawn shop be sure and examine it carefully as the
other reason for pawning is to unload defective things, I buy a lot of cues in
pawn shops but at least 1/2 of what I see is to badly screwed up to pay
anything for , warped cracked ferrules ,shafts butts,many cues wit a
mismatcthed shaft etc.
Gary
Stoney
Ed Mercier wrote:
>
> What are the chances that a pool player would sell his Joss West at a
> pawnbroker? Wouldn't any half sane pool player try and find another pool
> player to sell their cue to, since it's clear that a pawnbroker would have no
> idea how valuable a Joss West is?
>
It COULD happen but I think the odds against it are about the same as my
achieving a 150 and out in 14:1 before the second coming (best ever was
in low 50's thirty years ago). One can only guess why someone would
pawn a quality cue. My best guess is that someone was in need of a
little "traveln' money" and a pawnbroker is fast cash, if nothing else.
I continually cruise the pawn shops and have yet to find any such deal,
and, for the most part, the cues which have been pawned look like forty
miles of bad road (warped, chipped, dented, cracked, etc.).
HOWEVER most pawnbrokers know full well what they are buying. I have
several long time friends in the business and can assure you that no
pawnbroker will stay in business very long making deals from a position
of ignorance. I'm not saying that it doesn't happen but I would have to
say that most pawnbrokers, like antique dealers, know not only the Color
of Money but the Value of a Dollar as well.
Regards,
Stoney
BHW4Canes
Yes, always beware of what you are buying in pawn shops, since you usually
can't shoot with it. I see a lot of cracked cues, especially around the joint,
on the shaft side. Most of the proprietors are unaware of this. I personally
don't ask where it came from, or how, because they won't tell you. A lot of
times the original owner sold it because it ...was broken, needed cash quick,
wanted to sell it and knew his friends wouldn't buy that piece of crap, or it
was won or stolen and he didn't want it. Most pawn shops I frequent believe
that if it has a clover on it, or says Meucci, it is a "NICE" stick. Many
wouldn't have a clue what JW means. But be careful. I also see many no-name
tiawanese sticks being sold or asked over $100 dollars for.
john walkup
FCISA wrote:
> Around here players go bust on a daily basis and cues change hands in place of
> stakes quite often by players. Alot of cues are stolen ,out opf cars home
> burglurys etc.but for the most part the original owners get hard up and take
> what they can get where they can get it. Pawn shops generally have little or
> no idea what things othe than common everyday items are worth and on cues loan
> a relatively small amount . The key here is it almost always is a loan,
> renwable within a certain time frame, many items are "lost" by customers who
> have made payments for a long period of time at a very high rate of interes to
> keep from defaulting on the loan until they can redeem their merchandise. Here
> in texas the interest rate on pawn loans is 240% !! You read that right 240 !
That can't possibly be right. Hell, it would be a lot cheaper to just default on
the loan.Here in Oklahoma the rate is about 20%. Are you sure? What kind of
fool would
take out that kind of loan?
> by him or one of his freinds or family members, this happens all the time.
> Many situations can arise to keep the origanal owner from redeeming his /her
> goods. People die, go to prison, move away, never recover financially, lose
> their pawn ticket and so on.
At 240% interest, it would be cheaper to go out and buy a new cue then pay off
theone you have in hawk.
John
Jim Meador
Ed Mercier wrote:
>
> What are the chances that a pool player would sell his Joss West at a
> pawnbroker? Wouldn't any half sane pool player try and find another pool
> player to sell their cue to, since it's clear that a pawnbroker would have no
> idea how valuable a Joss West is?
Usually because they intend to get it out of pawn. It might be more
difficult to get it back from someone who doesn’t give you a pawn ticket
for it.
--
:o)
Jim Meador
Billiard World Web Site
<http://www.billiardworld.com>
Jim Meador
Stoney wrote:
> HOWEVER most pawnbrokers know full well what they are buying. I have
> several long time friends in the business and can assure you that no
> pawnbroker will stay in business very long making deals from a position
> of ignorance. I'm not saying that it doesn't happen but I would have to
> say that most pawnbrokers, like antique dealers, know not only the Color
> of Money but the Value of a Dollar as well.
>
You’re absolutely right. I can well imagine that cue sticks are rather
common items to be pawned, and a “broker” isn’t likely to overlook the
quality in a stick any more than he would the quality in jewelry. They
also have access to the same literature pool players have.
But for those young people who read RSB: Pawn shops are not the way to
resolve financial shortages. The interest will kill you IF you are able
to get your property back at all. Find another way (like a job and
responsible money management.)
Ed Mercier
Good point. Guess I should just be thankful I've never needed a loan so bad that
I've had to resort to a pawnbroker. Thanks for the education everybody.
Jim Meador wrote:
> Ed Mercier wrote:
> >
> > What are the chances that a pool player would sell his Joss West at a
> > pawnbroker? Wouldn't any half sane pool player try and find another pool
> > player to sell their cue to, since it's clear that a pawnbroker would have no
> > idea how valuable a Joss West is?
>
> Usually because they intend to get it out of pawn. It might be more
> difficult to get it back from someone who doesn’t give you a pawn ticket
> for it.
Trubbelsum
>> in texas the interest rate on pawn loans is 240% !! You read that right
>240 !
>
>That can't possibly be right. Hell, it would be a lot cheaper to just
>default on
>the loan.Here in Oklahoma the rate is about 20%. Are you sure? What kind
>of
>fool would
>take out that kind of loan?
>
probably get you around the 240% mark by the year end. Commonly, after 6 months
the item is theirs by reason of interest accumulation.
Ron Hudson
>
>That can't possibly be right. Hell, it would be a lot cheaper to just default on
>the loan.Here in Oklahoma the rate is about 20%. Are you sure? What kind of
>fool would take out that kind of loan?
Actually, it's right. While I was in a pawn shop today buying some
defaulted stuff, I asked. Oklahoma pawn shops charge 20% per MONTH,
which is right at 240% per year.
Ron
John Collins
Stoney wrote:
>
> Ed Mercier wrote:
> >
> > What are the chances that a pool player would sell his Joss West at a
> > pawnbroker? Wouldn't any half sane pool player try and find another pool
> > player to sell their cue to, since it's clear that a pawnbroker would have no
> > idea how valuable a Joss West is?
> >
>
> achieving a 150 and out in 14:1 before the second coming (best ever was
> in low 50's thirty years ago). One can only guess why someone would
> pawn a quality cue. My best guess is that someone was in need of a
> little "traveln' money" and a pawnbroker is fast cash, if nothing else.
>
> I continually cruise the pawn shops and have yet to find any such deal,
> and, for the most part, the cues which have been pawned look like forty
> miles of bad road (warped, chipped, dented, cracked, etc.).
>
> several long time friends in the business and can assure you that no
> pawnbroker will stay in business very long making deals from a position
> of ignorance. I'm not saying that it doesn't happen but I would have to
> say that most pawnbrokers, like antique dealers, know not only the Color
> of Money but the Value of a Dollar as well.
>
> Stoney
I have a friend who bought a D-21 ($425 Then) for $25 at a pawn shop in
Oklahoma City in 1987 including a Fellini case.
Even today I would say that most Pawnbrokers have no idea of the real
value of cues.
As with anything in a pawn shop you can be sure that they don´t have
much in it.
John
Esternb
>Good point. Guess I should just be thankful I've never needed a loan so bad
>that
>I've had to resort to a pawnbroker. Thanks for the education everybody.
>
>
>> Ed Mercier wrote:
>> >
>> > What are the chances that a pool player would sell his Joss West at a
>> > pawnbroker? Wouldn't any half sane pool player try and find another pool
>> > player to sell their cue to, since it's clear that a pawnbroker would
>have no
>> > idea how valuable a Joss West is?
>>
>> difficult to get it back from someone who doesn’t give you a pawn ticket
>> for it.
>> --
>> :o)
>> Jim Meador
>>
>> Billiard World Web Site
>> <http://www.billiardworld.com>
I frequent the pawn shops looking for quality cues. But I also keep an ear
out for what has been stolen. I have recovered a few cues for people in this
way. I would hate to buy a cue from a shop, just to find myself staring the
original owner in the face. Most of the shops around here though have no idea
of what they are buying. I have come across Schons that were laying in the
"cheap" area, while a $200 Meucci sat in the glass case like it was the Holy
Grail, with a $600 price tag on it. You just have to be aware of possabilities.
Eric
Eric M. Sternberg
Sternberg Cues and Repair Service
Chattanooga, TN.
A Steamer Andy
john walkup <wal...@mail.nhn.ou.edu> wrote:
>That can't possibly be right. Hell, it would be a lot cheaper to just default on
>the loan.Here in Oklahoma the rate is about 20%. Are you sure? What kind of
>fool would
>take out that kind of loan?
>
That is right. But the balk is called a storage fee. The local Pawn Shop here charges
12% intrest + a storage fee of another 15% per month. I know I wrote his coustom
software.
>
>At 240% interest, it would be cheaper to go out and buy a new cue then pay off
>theone you have in hawk.
>
>John
>
Thats per year. And it's on the amount of the loan not the cue. You will problelly only
get 10 bucks for a good cue. A friend of mine took a gal home with him one night.
When He awoke she had took his car and left for Vagas. pawned his $2800 Shaun for
$10.00 on the way out of town. He was luckey to get either back.
Andy