Cleaning a cue shaft
Jim Dinatale
I have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
some buildup on it from chalk and persperation. I bought some extremely
fine (#0000) finishing steel wool that seems to do a terrific job in
making the shaft smooth again. I haven't heard anyone else doing this and
I was wondering if this could any way damage my new stick? Any advice or
experiences would be welcome and appreciated. (I have heard of the
various products meant especially for pool cues, but it is difficult
for me to get to a billiards supply store)
*************************************************
* Jim DiNatale ********************************
* Washington, DC ********************************
*************************************************
Ron Shepard
>I have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
>some buildup on it from chalk and persperation. I bought some extremely
>fine (#0000) finishing steel wool that seems to do a terrific job in
>making the shaft smooth again. I haven't heard anyone else doing this and
>I was wondering if this could any way damage my new stick?
I used 0000 steel wool on my cue shaft for years. It is alright if you
don't do it too often, but the steel wool will rust and fall apart and is
a bit messy.
>Any advice or
>experiences would be welcome and appreciated. (I have heard of the
>various products meant especially for pool cues, but it is difficult
>for me to get to a billiards supply store)
I now use the plastic microfilm abrasive sheets instead of steel wool. I
use these once a month or so. These are even finer, remove less wood, and
result in a smoother surface. They don't rust, and, as far as I can tell,
they never wear out. You can order them from Mueller's (see the FAQ) or
from McDermott (see their online web page) if you can't find any locally.
For _routine_ shaft maintenence (hourly, daily, or whatever), I recommend
something nonabrasive, like a leather pad or even a clean cotton cloth.
$.02 -Ron Shepard
Craig Hogan
A USED 3M pad works well from me. Using that lightly gives you very
little sawdust. But I only do that about every other time I play.
Otherwise, use a cloth for frequent cleanings.
Craig
--
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
* Craig Hogan * Cure TAB archive, live Cure recordings: *
* cho...@primenet.com * http://www.primenet.com/~chogan/index.html *
* Software Engineer * "All the faces, all the voices blur..." *
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Jim Buss
Craig Hogan wrote:
>
> A USED 3M pad works well from me. Using that lightly gives you very
> little sawdust. But I only do that about every other time I play.
> Otherwise, use a cloth for frequent cleanings.
>
> Craig
>
much. You're taking your shaft down.
--JIM BUSS--
Cen-Com
In <5b37s2$e...@ari.ari.net>, Jim Dinatale writes:
>
>I have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
>some buildup on it from chalk and persperation. I bought some extremely
>fine (#0000) finishing steel wool that seems to do a terrific job in
>making the shaft smooth again. I haven't heard anyone else doing this and
>experiences would be welcome and appreciated. (I have heard of the
>various products meant especially for pool cues, but it is difficult
>for me to get to a billiards supply store)
>
>
>* Jim DiNatale ********************************
>* Washington, DC ********************************
>*************************************************
Jim, using almost any abrasive will eventually damage you cue.
You can use Windex (window cleaner) and a small amount of Pledge (furn.ture
polish. That will give you fairly good results. But, the one thing
I would tell you is most important is to keep your hands as clean as posible
when your playing.
GOOD SHOOTING
DUTCH
Henry K. Miller
Craig Hogan <cho...@primenet.com> wrote in article
<5b3vki$d...@nnrp1.news.primenet.com>...
> A USED 3M pad works well from me. Using that lightly gives you very
> little sawdust. But I only do that about every other time I play.
> Otherwise, use a cloth for frequent cleanings.
>
> Craig
>
> --
Craig--
Be very careful--if you see sawdust, you're reducing the diameter of your
shaft. 3M pads are generally considered to be far too abrasive to use in
regular cleanings. A much better approach is to keep your hands clean,
avoid the use of hand chalk and burnish the cue with non-abrasive material.
Occasional cleanings with Q-clean or some other cleaner made specially for
cues, followed by using the micro-burnishing papers is preferred.
Hank
====================
--
Henry K. Miller
Chesapeake Cues, Ltd.
International Brokers of Fine Cues
(410) 581-7341
Fax: (410) 363-6362
http://www.cuemaster.com/gallery/showcase.htm
http://www.wwcollectibles.com/rare/cue/index.html
dzc...@aol.com
>I have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
>some buildup on it from chalk and persperation.
I like to moisten a folded paper towel with 90% isopropyl alcohol, then
sprinkle it liberally with Bon Ami Cleanser. I will use this to
vigorously stroke my shaft briefly till I feel warmth. (It’s a good
feeling ...) Just look at the mess you will have in your towel! Refold
the towel to expose a clean side, add more Bon Ami, stroke again. Repeat
till no more mess appears in your towel.
Do not use Comet or any of the diatomaceous earth cleansers; they are much
too coarse and will actually remove wood. Bon Ami is extremely finely
ground organic thingies that clean without measurable wood removal. It
actually burnishes the wood if you maintain your stroke in the "warm zone"
long enough.
Now if you’ll excuse me, I think I hear a dirty shaft beckoning.
Bob Dzuricky
Dzc...@aol.com
David E. Nixon
Jim Dinatale wrote:
>
I bought some extremely
>
Jim; Good Grief! Throw that steel wool away. Hope you haven't
ruined your stick.
Go to an automobile parts store or an autobody shop. Buy sheets
of the finest body-finishing paper you can get. Many times it
is sold by "microns", i.e., "10 microns", etc. The "microns"
refers to the size of the largest particles in the grit. Other
times it is sold as "1600 grit" or something similar. Get the
finest stuff they sell, whatever that is. The lower the "micron"
number, the finer the grit. The higher the grit-number the finer the
grit. If the stuff is not out for you to look at, watch what the
clerk is bringing you. Many of them think 20 micron is finer than
10 micron. You will find it is not expensive.
Use only this quality of paper on your shaft. But, USE IT SPARINGLY
AND LIGHTLY, ONLY WHEN NECESSARY . It will take of oil and dirt
from the shaft
but, if used too often will reduce the size of the shaft.
Good Luck to you.
Dave
RCline148
Wet your hand with plain old water, then wet the shaft, and dry vigorously
with a towel, heating up the cue with a burnishing motion. You won't
remove some of the imbedded chalk particles, but you will make the cue
glide smoothly again through your fingers. You won't hurt the cue and you
can do this as often as you want.
Nostiff
I would think that there would be some product to seal the pores of the
wood in a new shaft which would make cleaning as easy as whiping down with
a cloth. I think Dallas West endorses a product called Shark Oil.
Anybody try this stuff?
Bud
dzc...@aol.com
> have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
>some buildup on it from chalk and persperation.
(Note: I originally posted this on 1/9 but it hasn’t shown up yet on rsb.
Is this an AOL problem? Does anyone else experience a 1 or 2 day lag
between sending & posting? I send via "flash sessions", but only rarely.
Any input or advice appreciated)
I like to moisten a folded paper towel with 90% isopropyl alcohol, then
sprinkle it liberally with Bon Ami Cleanser. I will use this to
vigorously stroke my shaft briefly till I feel warmth. (It’s a good
feeling :-) Just look at the mess you will have in your towel! Refold
David E. Nixon
Bud;
Many lotions/potions are "endorsed". Shark Oil. Snake Oil.
I think I've tried most of those known to Western
Civilization. IMHO, nothing beats a simple, clean, white,
fine-grained, maple, shaft; burnished to a silk-like finish with
a $100 bill! Chuckle,Chuckle (I don't use smileys).
Best Regards,
Dave
--
/s/David E. Nixon ni...@erols.com
ONE-POCKET HEAVEN
Virtual Tales fm Just Outside
the Outer Lanes of the Beltway
JOE LE PRO
Hank wrote:
> it would serve you well to find a cuemaker or COMPETENT
>repairman in your local area
make sure to look at the work before you trust your cue to anyone!!!!!
many poolrooms offer retipping by the same guy who pours the beer (and
often looks like hes had quite a few!), cleans the toilets and sweeps the
floors. they couldnt run one in a row on vp with the tracking (no offense
to any housemen out there who know thier stuff).
look first and save $ and heartache---------JOE LE PRO
Aaron Bass
What I've seen on this topic is several suggestions that require
something damp or wet. I'll take the bait and ask the obvious question.
With the regular application of water to bare wood, won't the shaft
warp?
Aaron Bass
cro...@cs.com
Henry K. Miller
Bob Jewett <jew...@netcom.com> wrote in article
<jewettE3...@netcom.com>...
> Henry K. Miller (cu...@erols.com) wrote:
>
> : ... I'm really fussy about having my shafts be VERY smooth.
>
> OK, so what kind of mechanical bridge head do you use?
>
> Bob Jewett
> [Who just practiced draw with a bridge and regrets it.]
>
Bob--
When you play REALLY great position, you don't need a bridge very often.
Wow that was fun to say, but let's get back to reality :-) We probably
crossed postings--I mentioned in an earlier post the name Spinalli
Woodworking. Being incredibly well organized, I can't find the copy of
Billiards Digest that lists all the manufacturers (I believe it's the
August issue). Anyone have one?
Seriously, these are really pretty good products. Cheap, easy to use,
convenient to take with you and, so far, no damage to shafts. I really
ought to get in touch with these folks, buy a bunch wholesale and sell them
or even give them away with some of my more expensive cues--would make a
nice "thank you" statement to a customer, don't you think?
I'm going to start looking with, somewhat more dedication, for the name of
this outfit. I'll post back here if I find it. If anyone else has this
info, I'd appreciate hearing from you either by email or here at r.s.b.
Thanks
Hank
=============
Henry K. Miller
Chesapeake Cues, Ltd.
International Brokers of Fine Cues
(410) 581-7341
Fax: (410) 363-6362
http://www.wwcollectibles.com/rare/cue/index.html
http://www.cuemaster.com/gallery/showcase.htm
JOE LE PRO
Jewett and Miller were discussing bridge heads.
what about a head thats made of a stiff bristled brush. to get an idea of
what im talking about, put a table brush upside down on the fent and use
it for a bridge.
how about going to the morgue and picking up an extra hand? just make sure
they didnt use powder:)-JOE LE PRO
Henry K. Miller
Aaron Bass <cro...@cs.com> wrote in article <32DA3A...@cs.com>...
Aaron,
This point probably was made way back when the thread started, but it bears
repeating. We're talking about applying a small amount of water, not
soaking or immersing the shaft. Various methods described include using a
q-tip or a small piece of paper towel, etc. In the case of a deep nick,
leave the dampened piece of paper towel in contact with the affected area
for several hours or overnight.
I have referred to using steam. The method I use is to use a whistling
tea-pot. Once the water is boiling and steam is coming out of the hole, I
hold the shaft such that the steam hits the dented area. Usually 5 seconds
is plenty. Less is better than more, in this case. Bear in mind, this is
sort of a last ditch attempt. I'm really fussy about having my shafts be
VERY smooth. I find even a small ding very annoying; enough so that it
affects my otherwise flawless game :-) If I have a ding that's so bad I
can't get rid of it, I will buy a new shaft. Consequently, by the time I
get to the "steam method" I don't have much to lose. I have never had a
shaft warp doing this, but there's always a first time. I do think it's
unlikely given the small area that is being affected.
When the ding is gone (the wood may be very slightly raised) I finish the
procedure with micro-burnishing film, followed by a small amount of very
fine carnuba wax. Karseal makes some especially for shafts (available from
Mueller's). I then burnish the shaft with a soft paper towel or one of
those leather burnishers--either will do fine. I'm not sure the Karseal is
any better than pure carnuba that you could buy elsewhere for less, but a
little goes such a long way that it doesn't matter much and I feel a little
safer this way.
The absolute last resort (prior to buying a new shaft) is to take the cue
to a cuemaker and let him refinish the shaft for me. Done on a lathe, this
will take the diameter of the shaft down a bit. You probably can get this
done at least a couple of times before the change will really be
significant. This is also probably easier for me to do than for most of you
since I work with so many cuemakers and because Tim Scruggs' shop is not
more than 15 minutes away. If you're going to be serious about your cue's
"care and feeding," it would serve you well to find a cuemaker or COMPETENT
repairman in your local area. This is, by the way, one of the reasons that
better cues are sold with 2 shafts.
Hope this helps.
Hank
==============
--
Bob Jewett
Pat Greenwald
JOE LE PRO joel...@aol.com wrote :
> Jewett and Miller were discussing bridge heads.
>
> what about a head thats made of a stiff bristled brush. to get an idea of
> what im talking about, put a table brush upside down on the fent and use
> it for a bridge.
Not a bad Idea but, backing for the "Felt" side of the brush, with
a textured rubber surface keeps it still. It is also more useful to have a
little more elevation than is natural. ( place something 1 cm thick between
the rubber and the wood backing ) their is a local player in boulder that
is quite capable and always uses this as his bridge. Note also while this
will work in most situations, not in all or your bridge will be to long.
Use a house cue or a break/Jump and put a piece of soft
paper towel between the bridge head and the cue.
Pat Greenwald
PGree...@Lucent.Com
bill stroud
JOE LE PRO wrote:
>
> Jewett and Miller were discussing bridge heads.
>
As a bit of practical advice on bridge heads, I can offer a little
historical insight. When ever Lassiter was playing he made sure that he
had a good house cue to use with the mechanical bridge. The heads wern't
so good in those days. Moral - don't use your own cue over a mechanical
bridge unless you are positive that it won't scratch your shapt.
bill stroud
hustler
jdi...@ari.net (Jim Dinatale) writes: >
> I have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
> I was wondering if this could any way damage my new stick? Any advice or
> experiences would be welcome and appreciated.
> * Washington, DC
In Burnes Book he recomends using a Scotch Bright Cleaning pad to clean
the shaft. You can get these at your local grocery store. I have used
them and they will help quite a bit. He also recomends using soft
smooth leather after the Scotch Bright pad to burnish the shaft.
Another idea is to get a new dollar bill and use it to burnish the shaft.
I personally use alcahol pads to clean my shaft. You can purchace them
at the local pharmacy or medical supply outlet. 100 for about $ 2.50.
Be sure to squeeze out the excess alcahol before using the pad. You want
it damp but not soaking wet. The alcoahol will evaporate fast and not
warp your shaft. This is great for removing the oils that build up on the
shaft.
0000 steel wool will not hurt your shaft unless you use it all the time.
I prefer using 600 wet/dry sandpaper on ocasion to get a really smoth
shaft. There again, don't over do it as this removes part of the wood
each time you do it.
Hope this helps :->
hus...@sosinc.net (Ray)
Henry K. Miller
hustler <hus...@sosinc.net> wrote in article
<32dc5...@news.ossinc.net>...
> jdi...@ari.net (Jim Dinatale) writes: >
> > I have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
> > I was wondering if this could any way damage my new stick? Any advice
or
> > experiences would be welcome and appreciated.
> > * Jim DiNatale
> > * Washington, DC
>
> In Burnes Book he recomends using a Scotch Bright Cleaning pad to clean
> the shaft. You can get these at your local grocery store. I have used
> them and they will help quite a bit. He also recomends using soft
> smooth leather after the Scotch Bright pad to burnish the shaft.
>
No, No, No...Whatever benefit Byrne's book has provided the pool community
(and I think it's considerable), this bit of misinformation is damaging.
Scotch-brite is much too abrasive. See earlier postings on this thread
> 0000 steel wool will not hurt your shaft unless you use it all the time.
> I prefer using 600 wet/dry sandpaper on ocasion to get a really smoth
> shaft. There again, don't over do it as this removes part of the wood
> each time you do it.
>
> hus...@sosinc.net (Ray)
>
The same goes for 600 grit sandpaper.
Hank
=============
DRWilliams
jdi...@ari.net (Jim Dinatale) wrote:
>some buildup on it from chalk and persperation. I bought some extremely
>fine (#0000) finishing steel wool that seems to do a terrific job in
I've used this technique for many years. The main thing to keep in
mind is not to use it regularly, but only to take the build-up of dirt
and oil off, not to sand the shaft down. Then use a wax with _no_
cleaners or just a piece of leather to burnish the wood and close the
pores. As an alternative, use 600 grit sandpaper for excessive
build-up, then move on to 1000 grit and 1500 grit. If you don't go too
long between uses, use 1500 or finer grit to touch things up from time
to time. A lathe is best if you have access to one. It's very
difficult to keep the pressure even by hand. I'm not trying to endorse
a product, but when Nick Varner was at my house last July, he gave me
a set of his "Nick's Edge," and I have been very pleased with those.
I've always had a major problem with excessive sweaty hands, and I've
tried dozens of techniques to keep my cue sliding easily through my
fingers. Even gloves were no help as they got soaked and then clogged
with dirt. I've experimented with about every combination of wax,
lathe speed, grit, temperature & humidity conditions, leather, etc.
that I have seen or heard about.
Many answers to cleaning the shaft and keeping it smooth vary
depending on the quality of shaft wood, IOW, usually the production
cues don't use the best quality wood, process the shafts too quickly,
spray lacquer on 'em, and have large pores that trap powder, dirt,
etc. Too many problems to fix in those cases where the shaft wood is
poor quality. What's best for you and your cue lies at the microscopic
level.
My total treatment consists of:
1. Open the pores (600 grit)
2. Remove any dents
3. Begin to smooth out the 600 work
4. Close the pores
5. Seal/protect the shaft
After the last step, any dirt and oil should be on top of the
protectant and not down in the pores, just like a good wax job on a
car. For those people whose own oils make the best protectant and
slide (not me), work your own oil into the shaft after step 3 and
burnish from time to time (a lot at first). Try to avoid any chalk and
other powder/dirt on the hand and shaft that could get into the wood
during this process. Chalk is an abrasive.
Sorry to be so wordy, but that's the most of it. I'm sure the
cuemakers could add volumes to this area. This has just been my
experience and is not meant to be the final word.
DRWilliams
yn...@mindspring.com
On 9 Jan 1997 16:54:26 GMT, jdi...@ari.net (Jim Dinatale) wrote:
>
>I have recently bought a new pool cue and already the shaft is getting
>fine (#0000) finishing steel wool that seems to do a terrific job in
>various products meant especially for pool cues, but it is difficult
>for me to get to a billiards supply store)
>
>
>*************************************************
>* Jim DiNatale ********************************
>* Washington, DC ********************************
>*************************************************
down,then burnish it with with a paper towell
Doug Kraft
I'm liable to get slapped for this, but I, and several others here, use
similar, slightly abrasive techniques to keep our cues like new. I have
never tried #0000 steel wool, but use 1200 grit wet/dry paper. I guess
if you view your stick as a lifetime investment (as so many sticks are),
then this is not a good idea, as it does remove some wood every time you
use the steel wool/sandpaper. However, the amount is so minute, that I
cannot tell any difference in my stick after three years of smoothing
the shaft this way.
Having said that, I don't recommend this for CLEANING the shaft - for
that I would try the alcohol trick - THEN go over the shaft LIGHTLY with
the steel wool. Most importantly, keep your hands clean. I wash my
hands frequently throughout the course of a night - I never use hand
powder, never hold drinks with my bridge hand, etc... A little care,
and you will only have to break out that steel wool every few weeks -
even playing nightly.
If it feels good - use it!
OK. the rest of you can jump on me now!
Doug Kraft
"The fuller you hit, the controller you get"