Elkmaster tip ?
Glenn Godsey
I appreciate any comments.
Thanks...Glenn
Frank G.
a harder tip due to this. Most house cues I have seen have Elk Master tips
because they are , uh, inexpensive, yes that is the word I wanted,
inexpensive. Some players like them, but then some players like liver and
onions. I guess there is no end to differences in taste. Most of the people
that I see put on an Elk Master are back pretty quick getting a Le Pro or
Triangle. Most players use Le Pro I would guess, they are pretty standard
on most of the production cues I have seen. I like Champion tips for non-
layered tips and Herculese medium for layered. Here lately I have been
using the Champion (the one with the little red backer). I really like this
tip. It is more expensive than a Le Pro, but less expensive than the
layered tips, and holds up and plays just as well as the layered tips (in
my opinion, of course).
--
Frank G Richmond, Va.
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tony mathews
Glenn Godsey wrote:
The Elkmaster tip is favoured among many Snooker players. The tip is
quite soft. To prevent mushrooming I pre-compress the tip in a vice.
This virtually eliminates the mushrooming. The tips are very variable in
quality. My experience is that in a box of 50, you may get 5 or 6
excellent tips and 10 to 15 acceptable tips, and many that will degrade
or go spongy with use. The hardest tips in the box are usually the best.
Contrary to popular belief, a good Elkmaster does not wear out fast. In
fact, a good quality compressed Elkmaster is among the longest lasting
tips available. They hold chalk well and are more resistant to miscues.
A top quality compressed Elkmaster (despite the low price) is as good as
any tip made today. However, the main problem is that it is hard to find
a good one. For the top Snooker or Pool players that I have worked with
(that prefer the Elkmaster), I often will go through many tips (actual
installations) before I find a good one.
For this reason alone, it may actually cost more to get a good Elkmaster
installed than to have a more expensive layered tip installed. This is
because the layered tips are very consistent. But I do know of players
that prefer the Elkmaster over all other brands (Effren Reyes is one of
them) regardless of cost.
Tony
nu
It's probably the most common tip here in the Philippines. I agree
that they're quite inconsistent from tip to tip, but pressing them in
a vise grip or a C clamp (not too hard) should solve the problem.
These tips actually last quite long, and hold shape well (if they're
pressed, or if you get a good one). My gf uses an Elk Master tip.
She plays about 2-3 hours a week. She's had the same tip on since
March. It's only been shaped twice, and it's still thick.
One thing really good with this tip, is you can get crazy side spin
with it. It seems harder to draw with it though.
Glenn Godsey <glenn-...@utulsa.edu> wrote in message news:<9op16...@drn.newsguy.com>...
David Malone
<tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>For this reason alone, it may actually cost more to get a good Elkmaster
>installed than to have a more expensive layered tip installed.
Tony, how much do you charge to install a tip? I just had one
installed on my break cue and it cost me $20 (which amazed me
considering I had some time ago actually given the guy half a dozen of
the water buffalo tips he installed.)
Also, are you actually making any cues up there in cottage country or
are you concentrating on answering everybody's questions here on RSB?
(grin).
David "The Hamster" Malone.
Mike Page
> On Tue, 25 Sep 2001 01:23:44 -0700, tony mathews
> <tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> >For this reason alone, it may actually cost more to get a good Elkmaster
> >installed than to have a more expensive layered tip installed.
>
> Tony, how much do you charge to install a tip? I just had one
> installed on my break cue and it cost me $20 (which amazed me
> considering I had some time ago actually given the guy half a dozen of
> the water buffalo tips he installed.)
Around here, if I ask Mark at the pool hall to put on a le-pro or an
elkmaster or any of a few others, he'll take out a bunch of tips, look at
several, bounce them to hear the sound, pick one, and install it on the
lathe, clean up the ferrule, etc --for $6 including the tip. I realize
that's something like $50 CA.
--
mike page
fargo
Jennifer
had the guy who works on my shafts beat it pretty hard. It doesn't
mushroom. It'll fray at the edges a little but I like the feel of it.
--
Jennifer
http://www.jessnjenn.net
webcam http://www.jessnjenn.net/livevideo
"Frank G." <nob...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.1619dcb25ff5b1cb9896b6@news...
Jennifer
--
Jennifer
http://www.jessnjenn.net
webcam http://www.jessnjenn.net/livevideo
"Mike Page" <mike...@ndsu.nodak.edu> wrote in message
news:mike_page-250...@page.chem.ndsu.nodak.edu...
David Hakala
counting the tip; I supply my own Moor MH.
"David Malone" <mal...@ca.ibm.com> wrote in message
news:3bb098ca.336401850@tornews...
> On Tue, 25 Sep 2001 01:23:44 -0700, tony mathews
> <tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
<snip> Tony, how much do you charge to install a tip? I just had one
David Malone
Page) wrote:
>Install it on the
>lathe, clean up the ferrule, etc --for $6 including the tip. I realize
>that's something like $50 CA.
LOL... When you take into consideration the postage both ways and the
exchange rate you wouldn't be far wrong.
I tried bouncing some tips to see what they sounded like and 1. they
all sound the same and 2. I lost one under the desk somewhere... you
owe me $3 CDN...
David "The Hamster" Malone.
tony mathews
David Malone wrote:
> Tony, how much do you charge to install a tip? I just had one
> installed on my break cue and it cost me $20 (which amazed me
> considering I had some time ago actually given the guy half a dozen of
> the water buffalo tips he installed.)
For the basic solid leather tips (Elks, Lepro, Buffalo, Triangle etc.) I
charge $10.00 per installation.
>
>
> Also, are you actually making any cues up there in cottage country or
> are you concentrating on answering everybody's questions here on RSB?
>
> (grin).
Uh, well until my shop is back up and running again, I'm stuck (uh,
fortunate?) to answer posts etc. etc.
Have you installed a squirrel cage next to any tables yet?
Tony
>
>
> David "The Hamster" Malone.
tony mathews
nu wrote:
> If you can tolerate a dead hit, Elkmaster tips aren't so bad.
>
> It's probably the most common tip here in the Philippines. I agree
> that they're quite inconsistent from tip to tip, but pressing them in
> a vise grip or a C clamp (not too hard) should solve the problem.
Actually it doesn't solve the problem. You can achieve a better degree of hardness consistency,
but not a better degree of quality consistency. Elkmasters have the annoying habit of fiber
breakdown (you can grip the tip near the top with your finger nails and pull up the tip like an
accordion!). A good one won't do this, but a bad one will and it will do it if you compress it or
not. And sometimes you don't know if this will happen until you machine it on the lathe.
>
>
> These tips actually last quite long, and hold shape well (if they're
> pressed, or if you get a good one). My gf uses an Elk Master tip.
> She plays about 2-3 hours a week. She's had the same tip on since
> March. It's only been shaped twice, and it's still thick.
>
> One thing really good with this tip, is you can get crazy side spin
> with it. It seems harder to draw with it though.
Warning RSB Scientist alert!
I don't think that this is true of the Elkmaster or any other standard tip for that matter. Many
people claim better draw with the tip. I think that it does mis-cue less often.
Tony
Mark0
"tony mathews" <tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3BB10B59...@sympatico.ca...
>
> Actually it doesn't solve the problem. You can achieve a better degree of
hardness consistency,
> but not a better degree of quality consistency. Elkmasters have the
annoying habit of fiber
> breakdown (you can grip the tip near the top with your finger nails and
pull up the tip like an
> accordion!). A good one won't do this, but a bad one will and it will do
it if you compress it or
> not. And sometimes you don't know if this will happen until you machine it
on the lathe.
>
and do an EM but I warn them that I won't guarantee the tip (except that it
will stay attached).
Mark0 <--$7.00 for "std" tips
William Lee
chalk.
When you cut down a 14mm to the size of the ferrule you remove most of this
chalk and it flys everywhere. Plus the leather is so soft that you cant cut
it very well with a lathe tool.
It just pushes most of the leather out of the way and releases the chalk.
You must sand it down all the way with coarse sandpaper being careful not to
nick the ferrule.
I can install a LePro and shape it in half the time it takes to do an Elk
Master.
There are several good players that like them around here and I have done
about 15 so far.
William Lee
"Mark0" <poola...@mail.com> wrote in message
news:tr1t9fd...@corp.supernews.com...
Bob Johnson
be in ND any day!
--
Bob Johnson, Denver, Co.
Home of the 1997/1998 World Champion Broncos!
Home of the 1996/2001 Stanley Cup Champion Avalanche!
bo...@cris.com
"Mike Page" <mike...@ndsu.nodak.edu> wrote in message
news:mike_page-250...@page.chem.ndsu.nodak.edu...
nu
>Elkmasters have the annoying habit of fiber
> breakdown (you can grip the tip near the top with your finger nails and pull >up the tip like an accordion!). A good one won't do this, but a bad one will >and it will do it if you compress it or not. And sometimes you don't know if >this will happen until you machine it on the lathe.
>
Why would I want to do that? :)
Anyway, I've never heard any complaints about Elk Masters here, except
that some are softer than others. But regarding the effects on how
the tips play, I've heard nothing.
> Warning RSB Scientist alert!
>
> I don't think that this is true of the Elkmaster or any other standard tip for >that matter. Many people claim better draw with the tip. I think that it does >mis-cue less often.
>
It does miscue less often, but I just can't draw well with it. And it
can really put sidespin on the cue ball. Of course, this is based on
my personal experience with it.
nu
tony mathews
William Lee wrote:
> The thing I dislike about an Elk Master is that it is impregnated with blue
> chalk.
> When you cut down a 14mm to the size of the ferrule you remove most of this
> chalk and it flys everywhere. Plus the leather is so soft that you cant cut
> it very well with a lathe tool.
> It just pushes most of the leather out of the way and releases the chalk.
> You must sand it down all the way with coarse sandpaper being careful not to
> nick the ferrule.
William, for Elkmasters I use a high-speed-steel cutter and I sharpen it myself
before every batch of Elkmasters. This way I can cut the tip down to size
without doing any sanding except at the very end. And I try to use a tip size
closer to the ferrule diameter.
> I can install a LePro and shape it in half the time it takes to do an Elk
> Master.
See above, it takes me the same amount of time (unless the tip is crap!).
Tony
tony mathews
nu wrote:
> tony mathews <tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message news:<3BB10B59...@sympatico.ca>...
>
> >Elkmasters have the annoying habit of fiber
> > breakdown (you can grip the tip near the top with your finger nails and pull >up the tip like an accordion!). A good one won't do this, but a bad one will >and it will do it if you compress it or not. And sometimes you don't know if >this will happen until you machine it on the lathe.
> >
> Why would I want to do that? :)
That's not what I meant. What I was saying was that when the tip is crap, the tip fibers break down and it is possible to do what I mentoined. With a good tip you cannot do this (the fibers are intact). The result is that a bad tip gives inconsistent play (due to the fiber breakdown).
>
>
>
>
> It does miscue less often, but I just can't draw well with it. And it
> can really put sidespin on the cue ball. Of course, this is based on
> my personal experience with it.
Fair enough, but some people (that have posted here recently) claim the opposite. Just a bit of information that's all.
Tony
>
>
> nu
William Lee
The ones I have installed may have been low quality tips.
After reading the post that said there were a low percentage of good ones in
a box, that is most likely the case.
I have been using carbide tiped cutting tools.
I will try a freshly sharpened HSS on the next one.
William Lee
David Malone
<tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>Have you installed a squirrel cage next to any tables yet?
Um... Tony, I've been giving this lots of thought and I haven't come
up with anything. Are you suggesting that those messy damn squirrels
burying nuts in my lawn are related to the hamster family... or are
you just saying you think I'm squirrely?
Egad! I may be forced to ask you to name your seconds when you come up
for the GWN... here's a thought... if we use pool cues to settle our
differences, would that be a 'Deuel'?
David "The Hamster" Malone.
tony mathews
David Malone wrote:
> On Tue, 25 Sep 2001 15:49:34 -0700, tony mathews
> <tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
> >Have you installed a squirrel cage next to any tables yet?
>
> Um... Tony, I've been giving this lots of thought and I haven't come
> up with anything. Are you suggesting that those messy damn squirrels
> burying nuts in my lawn are related to the hamster family... or are
> you just saying you think I'm squirrely?
>
>
Don't Hamster cages come with a little revolving wheel for the little
critter to play on? Or is that just for Gerbils? It was a (obviously
vague) attempt at a joke!
Tony
Jim Waugh
William Lee wrote:
> Plus the leather is so soft that you cant cut
> it very well with a lathe tool.
The way to cut a tip is around the ferrule. Hard to
describe in words. Most cutters just separate the fibers
of the leather by cutting the length of the cue. Cut
around the ferrule. A good example of this is a pencil
sharpener. That is why the Willard's Tipper Trimmer is
such a good tool for a cue repairman to have in his
toolbox. If you do cut with a lathe, make sure your
cutting tool is as sharp as you can get it. It will
make a huge difference.
JMHO,
Jim W.
Coeur d'Alene, ID (It's getting cold.)
Brenda, AZ (107 on Monday Sept 24th.)