When my new cue came with Talisman PRO Hard tips, I too found them hard.
The draw was lousy compared to Lepro tips.
But I did find that I had my better cue ball control.
Over a six week period, my the draw has come back.
I think, it is more difficult to draw with a hard tip. It requires a more
"perfect" stroke.
Now that I can draw well with the Talisman hard tip, I occassional amaze
myself with a Lepro tipped shaft - two table lengths draw.
Such awsome draw is nice - but rarely required.
So, just stick with the new tips a month or two and see.
Eww.. Le Pro - The Mushroom King Tip.. :)
William Lee
"Hazard" <h...@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:Xns92CC5FF1F...@24.70.95.211...
WilleeCue wrote:
> Do you put on your tips or do you have someone else do it for you?
> A fellow down here will bounce the new LePro tip on the floor many times after
> he puts it on the cue before final shaping.
> He says it compresses the leather and helps prevent that mushroom effect you are
> talking about.
> I have read here that compressing it in a vise will accomplish the same result.
> Didn't someone around here soak the tips in milk also?
I've done all of the above.
Tony
-tip fiddler from way back....
"WilleeCue" <n5...@stx.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ygPC9.7010$Gc.1...@twister.austin.rr.com...
--
Bob Johnson, Denver, Co.
bo...@cris.com
"QStickFixer" <qstic...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:iWKdnbJzfry...@comcast.com...
Sorry about the picture of a full body slam to the floor.
William Lee
William lee
"QStickFixer" <qstic...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:iWKdnbJzfry...@comcast.com...
William Lee < ... no more questions.
"tony mathews" <tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3DDC1792...@sympatico.ca...
What do you think dropping the cue, tip end down, straight onto a
smooth, hard floor would do that a hard breakshot wouldn't?
It is a simple way to pack down the tip the way a bunch of hard shots
would in a very short time. It can help reduce the amount of fiddling
and reshaping after the tip is installed and played in.
>I have read here that compressing it in a vise will accomplish the same result.
>Didn't someone around here soak the tips in milk also?
Soak it in Milk??? Geez! How long does it take to dry out? Bang it with a hammer.
Nat
QStickFixer wrote:
> He BOUNCES the new tip on the floor many times AFTER he puts it on the cue ?
> What's this fellow's name please, so that some of us more concerned shooters
> know to never let him touch our cues.
This is an old time treatment that I've outlined on here in detail in the past.
It won't harm your shaft (the shaft weighs less than a ball, so dropping the tip
onto the floor puts less strain on the tip than hitting a ball with it does -
it's physics).
I prefer to pre-compress the tip with a vice, but if you don't have access to a
vice, then the floor drop deal is a good substitute.
An old pro player showed me this method years ago.
Tony
WilleeCue wrote:
> I suspected as much with your background.
> One question, Tony .... what is soaking the tip in milk susposed to accomplish
> and does it really work?
Well the casein (milk protein?) is like a natural binder, or gentle adhesive. It's
supposed to help bind the fibers of the leather together and possibly add some
hardness. I never really found it to be of much benefit myself. Just compressing the
tip was good enough for me.
I've also tried glycerin and some other home made concoctions. My final conclusion
was that you are better off not adding something to the leather before installation
as it could seriously compromise the adhesion between tip and ferrule.
But pre-compressing the tip seems to be a good idea to both add consistency to the
tips (get all tips of the same type the same hardness) and eliminate the break in
period (the tip can be shaped and is in "playing" shape right away.
However, as I've said before, compressing the tip won't make a lousy tip into a good
tip.
Tony
-just a hard lousy tip....
na...@centtel.net wrote:
> Soak it in Milk??? Geez! How long does it take to dry out? Bang it with a hammer.
Yeah, I hear ya! Supposedly, that's how Reyes like to have his tips treated (he uses
a compresses Elk Master last I heard).
The hammer and anvil was what Harvey Martin used to use.
Tony
-in praise of blacksmith tip installers...o.k., that's a joke!....
Huh? Eliminate air pockets?????? Dude, if the tip has "air pockets"
between the tip and ferrule it's time to install a new tip. Bouncing it
against a hard surface will only serve to compress the tip from the top
down. Any air pockets that might be there will either blow out the glue
around it or not be affected at all. If the tip is not glued properly so
that there is "air" between the tip and ferrule on any side then pressure
will only cause the tip to move and break the glue seal that is there.
John
How hard do you squeeze it(squish the tip to 1/2, 3/4, etc it's initial
size) and how long do you leave it in the vice?
Do this with all tips or only single layer tips?
Otto
"tony mathews" <tony.m...@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3DDCA48A...@sympatico.ca...
John Collins wrote:
> Huh? Eliminate air pockets?????? Dude, if the tip has "air pockets"
> between the tip and ferrule it's time to install a new tip.
While I've heard a similar explanation, I also think it is unlikely. If I bounce
the tip on a hard surface, I think it compresses the leather, and maybe (but who
knows) removes any entrapped air from within the leather itself. Not from under
the tip.
Tony
Otto wrote:
> On precompression of tips in a vice:
>
> How hard do you squeeze it (squish the tip to 1/2, 3/4, etc it's initial
> size)
I'd love to give you a scientific answer. But I can't. With the vice I have
(an old milling machine vice with hardened, ground steel plates - it's a big
one) I tighten it as much as I can. The length of the handle limits the amount
of force that I can apply. So I suppose that I apply a specific force
(although what it is I don't really know).
The final height of the tip is therfore determined by it's intitial hardness.
So some tips do indeed compress dwon to about 1/2 of their initial height.
While some others (from the same batch!) might only lose 1/4 (or less) of
their initial height.
Btw, the force isn't enough to "crush" the tip, or damage the fibers in any
way as far as I can tell. Tips produces with this method have lasted for years
(or as long as a tip can normally be expected to last depending on the tip
care regimen you use).
> and how long do you leave it in the vice?
I have tried leaving it for hours, or even overnight.
What I fuond was that the amount of compression time is dependant on two
factors:
1) the initial compression force. Tips are not perfectly elastic. So when
compressed beyond a certain point, they tend to stay compressed. The smaller
the initial force, the longer the compression time
and
2) the final desired hardness ie: the harder you want the tip to become, for a
given compression force, the longer you need to leave it.
So for soft tips, youmight limit the time more than for a hard tip.
For my vice a few minutes compression is all I need.
> Do this with all tips or only single layer tips?
All tips.
Incidentally, MH, or H Moori tips need the least amount of compression. In
fact, you can probably eliminate the compression without a problem. That's how
consistent they are.
All other tips can benefit from a bit of compression imo.
Tony
-after all, they get compressed in use!
> Do you put on your tips or do you have someone else do it for you?
> A fellow down here will bounce the new LePro tip on the floor many
> times after he puts it on the cue before final shaping.
> He says it compresses the leather and helps prevent that mushroom
> effect you are talking about.
> I have read here that compressing it in a vise will accomplish the
> same result. Didn't someone around here soak the tips in milk also?
Yes, I do all of my work at home.. I do alot of the local work
in my town as well.
Those techniques noted above I feel "could" possibly work, but they
seem like a waste of time to get inconsistent results from these
cheap tips, IMO..
Not trying to be rude or anal here.. :)