Scraped ferrule -- problem?
Crispy Fish
ultimate tip tool (the part on the side for eliminating mushrooming).
Besides picking up chalk and generally looking ugly, will a scraped ferrule
affect my game at all? I can't imagine it will have any effect, but I want
to make sure.
-CF
Tony DeAngelo
Crispy Fish wrote:
> A few days ago I managed to scrape up my ferrule pretty bad using my
> ultimate tip tool (the part on the side for eliminating mushrooming).
I always thought that part of the UTT was specifically for scratching
your ferrule. I'd replace it, only because it would bug me so much. If
it's not too bad you might be able to sand it out with progressively
smoother paper.
KP
#1, chalk nicely. Don't chalk your ferrule, chalk your tip. This will avoid
95% of "blue ring disease".
If you need to scuff your tip, the tip pik is pretty good. It's the only
tool I have and rarely use. Use light taps. Just enough to make if rougher.
Actually, use soft taps. Sandpaper can also be a good scuffer.
As far as mushroom elimination, use a tip that is noted for not mushrooming
much in the first place. Since all tips mushroom to some degree, these
higher quality tips will mushroom a lot less. To remove that small amount of
mushroom, use sandpaper folded to give you an edge, and carefully sand
around the tip. This may or may not be tedious, but if your that anal in the
first place, it's worth it.
I only use a Tip Pik softly once every 2 months at most. I use Mooris on
Predator shafts. These shafts have soft ferrules that are perhaps the
easiest of all cues to ruin. Mine are spotless and look brand new after
years of play. The whole key is to not ruin your shafts in the first place.
Kp
"Crispy Fish" <nos...@differentbeats.com> wrote in message
news:b7hr3b$14pr5$1...@ID-183841.news.dfncis.de...
TheRacker
rarely use, on a key chain hanging off of my case. This nut where I shoot a
good bit got a hold of it the other night and damn near ground his tip off.
Why do they call it 'common' sense?
hammerhead...@verizon.net
along the way. A local player gave me a tip that might help you in the
future. Thin tape around the ferrule or a post it, then the tip tool.
Lucky
"Crispy Fish" <nos...@differentbeats.com> wrote in message
news:b7hr3b$14pr5$1...@ID-183841.news.dfncis.de...
-jeff
What is the obsession with keeping pool cues surgically clean?
Scratches on the ferrule, chalk on the ferrule, small dings in the
butt, etc, are constant sources of distress for some people. Does
any of the above really effect how a cue plays?
I understand that some of you are playing with $2k and up cues which
are more art than cue, so is that it? Personally, I wouldn't pay
that much for a cue even if I had the money until somebody could prove
to me that a (for example) $3000 ivory inlaid cue actually plays
better than a $600 cue with a maple butt and identical construction.
And if it was better, I'm probably not good enough to notice.
Like I said, this isn't a troll. I'm honestly curious. I play with a
$400 cue, like it, and don't really care about chalk rings on the
ferrule. I wipe it down when I'm done for the night, but I don't
really worry if I get some chalk on the ferrule.
Just curious,
-jeff
"KP" <no...@FUCKSPAMtampabay.rr.com> wrote in message news:<pa0na.41469$D15.1...@twister.tampabay.rr.com>...
KP
Being neat and clean and ideal is just an extension of how I like my game to
be. I want everything to be perfect to reflect what I am trying (hopelessly)
to achieve in my game. Same with the table, balls ect...
To me, it makes the game better. Not how I play, but the experience. Most
people here are crazy for pool. Since most of us are pool lovers, we are
more knowledgeable and skillful then the average player. So why treat your
cue like the average bar banger? Your better then that, so treat your cue
like a pool player who loves the game and all of its aspects would.
Remember, this is the instrument of your game....Price also plays a role.
$500 is a lot of money to invest for a piece of wood. While it's nowhere
near what a guitar could be in price, I think it's a shame to trash
something that costs $500. Wouldn't matter if I was a millionaire, it's not
right to me.
OTOH, look at Earl Strickland. He had/has the worst blue rings on his
Cuetecs I ever saw. Doesn't slow him down one bit. I think he uses clean
shafts for TV, but in local gigs I have seen him play with some dirty
looking shafts. So he's a world class player and he treats his cue like
dirt. However, most professionals keep their cues in very good condition.
Kp
"-jeff" <mun...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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Crispy Fish
news:pa0na.41469$D15.1...@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
>
> #1, chalk nicely. Don't chalk your ferrule, chalk your tip. This will
avoid
> 95% of "blue ring disease".
>
I do chalk nicely! :]
> If you need to scuff your tip, the tip pik is pretty good. It's the only
> tool I have and rarely use. Use light taps. Just enough to make if
rougher.
> Actually, use soft taps. Sandpaper can also be a good scuffer.
>
How does chalk stay on your tip if you rarely scuff it?
> As far as mushroom elimination, use a tip that is noted for not
mushrooming
> much in the first place. Since all tips mushroom to some degree, these
> higher quality tips will mushroom a lot less. To remove that small amount
of
> mushroom, use sandpaper folded to give you an edge, and carefully sand
> around the tip. This may or may not be tedious, but if your that anal in
the
> first place, it's worth it.
>
I think the tip is definitely my problem. I have a LePro (so I'm told) that
mushrooms if you just look at it funny...
> I only use a Tip Pik softly once every 2 months at most. I use Mooris on
> Predator shafts. These shafts have soft ferrules that are perhaps the
> easiest of all cues to ruin. Mine are spotless and look brand new after
> years of play. The whole key is to not ruin your shafts in the first
place.
>
> Kp
>
When this tip wears down, I'll go ahead and replace it with something better
(and a new ferrule at the same time). Until then, I'm doing my best to keep
it dime-shaped and scuffed. The guy at the shop managed to use the UTT
without scraping the ferrule; I'm surprised how easy it was for me to mess
it up. :\
-CF
JohnA(Kent,WA)
> How does chalk stay on your tip if you rarely scuff it?
>
I think this is one of those things that players assume because intuitively
it seems correct. Like a softer tip can provide more spin because it grips
the ball better. Not.
I believe you could polish your tip and the chalk would still hold. Not as
smooth as glass but I don't think it has to have the porosity that the
scuffing tools provide. There was a thread not too long ago that talked
about players who very seldom mess with their tip. The only time they touch
up is when it starts to deform. As long as the tip material is somewhat
porous, it will hold sufficient chalk to do it's job.
Crispy Fish
news:dJhna.476438$3D1.255439@sccrnsc01...
Okay, I'll buy that it's possible, but is it better? Has anybody done any
research on rates of miscuing with different porosities? I'm inclined to
think that scuffing may not be necessary, but may be more risk-free. Of
course, I have no basis for this assumption.
-CF
Dan White
from use, not scuffing. I've never done anything to the tips other than the
initial shape. Every month or two I use a tip tapper which I don't think
does anything. I just use it every blue moon because it is sitting there.
I never miscue unless it is some unusual difficult shot.
dwhite
"Crispy Fish" <nos...@differentbeats.com> wrote in message
news:b7k9eu$1nbo0$1...@ID-183841.news.dfncis.de...
Tony DeAngelo
play and not think about anything. If my cue has a dirty ferrule, say a
blob of blue chalk on it, I start to think about it. My eye wanders to
it. If my shaft has a nick in it and I feel it go through my hand every
stroke, same thing. If my shaft is sticky, same thing. So, the reasons
I keep my cues clean are much the same as the reasons I keep myself
clean. I could play in wrinkled, stained, smelly clothes, with a booger
hanging out my nose, teeth that feel hairy, and an ass that needs to be
washed, but I'd probably even worse than I normally do.
KP
> How does chalk stay on your tip if you rarely scuff it?
By using a good tip. Some tips will have a nearly polished and shiney look
to them if not scuffed after a while, those make it difficult to hold chalk.
I notice on tips like these, that the chalk layers on very thin, almost like
a dust covering of chalk. Whereas on a good tip you get that nice solid
thick layer of chalk on the tip. I don't think anyones ever thought about
it, but I wonder what the minimum amount in mil thickness of chalk on tip
for optimal grip...
Here's a good rule I go by:
if you can see the color of your tip after chalking, then it's not holding
enough.
> I think the tip is definitely my problem. I have a LePro (so I'm told)
that
> mushrooms if you just look at it funny...
While Lepros play well and any pro could win World championships with one,
they are by far the worst to maintain IMO. Elk Master, Triumph, LePro, and
Triangle are all made by the same company. I listed them in terms of
hardness from soft to hard. The only one of those 4 tips that will hold its
shape well is the Triangle. While I don't think it's a very hard tip, some
people do. I consider the buffalo type tips to be much harder. All 4 of
these are .50 cent tips. There are much better tips in either layered or
normal that are much better. A good layered tip can be bought for under $15.
Mooris are the exception. I liked Triangles a lot until I got Mooris. The
Moori is only better because I have to do nothing to maintain it while the
Triangle needed scruffing and some slight mushroom work in the break in
phase. There are instrokes, talisman, hercules and other layered tips that
are cheaper and probably play every bit as well. I got mooris just to kill
the curiosity.
Kp
Patrick Johnson
> ... I don't think anyones ever thought about
> it, but I wonder what the minimum amount in mil thickness of chalk on tip
> for optimal grip...
I bet Deno thinks about it all the time.
Pat Johnson
Chicago
John W. Pierce
>
> ... I wonder what the minimum amount in mil thickness of chalk on tip
> for optimal grip...
Probably an even one-grain-thick coat provides maximum friction. I
would expect the grain-of-chalk-to-tip and grain-of-chalk-to-ball
friction to be higher than the grain-of-chalk-to-grain-of-chalk
friction. Therefore, for maximum friction, you would want each grain
of chalk at the tip-ball contact point to be in contact with the tip
on one side and the ball on the other side, rather than having a layer
several grains thick where the grains are sliding against each other.
It's certainly true that "maximum" and "optimal" values are not always
the same for all things, but it seems to me that they are the same in
this case.
-- John W. Pierce, Chem & Biochem, UC San Diego
j...@ucsd.edu
Frank G
says...
:|:I bet Deno thinks about it all the time.
:|:
:|:
In time he may tell us.
--
frank_at_quick-clean.com (change _at_ to @)
Mike Page
j...@ucsd.edu (John W. Pierce) wrote:
> "KP" <no...@FUCKSPAMtampabay.rr.com> wrote
> >
> > ... I wonder what the minimum amount in mil thickness of chalk on tip
> > for optimal grip...
>
> Probably an even one-grain-thick coat provides maximum friction. I
> would expect the grain-of-chalk-to-tip and grain-of-chalk-to-ball
> friction to be higher than the grain-of-chalk-to-grain-of-chalk
> friction.
The observation that the tip contact area is wiped clean of chalk on a
miscue suggests otherwise, doesn't it?
Therefore, for maximum friction, you would want each grain
> of chalk at the tip-ball contact point to be in contact with the tip
> on one side and the ball on the other side, rather than having a layer
> several grains thick where the grains are sliding against each other.
> It's certainly true that "maximum" and "optimal" values are not always
> the same for all things, but it seems to me that they are the same in
> this case.
>
> -- John W. Pierce, Chem & Biochem, UC San Diego
> j...@ucsd.edu
--
mike page
fargo
Patrick Johnson
>>would expect the grain-of-chalk-to-tip and grain-of-chalk-to-ball
>>friction to be higher than the grain-of-chalk-to-grain-of-chalk
>>friction.
Mike Page, for Cow Tipping University of Fargo, returns:
> The observation that the tip contact area is wiped clean of chalk on a
> miscue suggests otherwise, doesn't it?
Pat, with no credentials whatsoever, butts in:
Do we know the clean spot is effect and not cause?
Pat Johnson
Chicago
Mark0
Mark0 <--my experience says effect
"Patrick Johnson" <patrick...@attbi.com> wrote in message
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