Brunswick GC question
Jerry Brunning
What is the difference between a GC I and a GC III? I've seen a GC I
advertised locally for sale, but I've only heard of the GC III. Is this an
earlier version of the GC?
Thanks in advance
Jerry
Laura Friedman
Jerry Brunning wrote:
>
> What is the difference between a GC I and a GC III? I've seen a GC I
> advertised locally for sale, but I've only heard of the GC III. Is this an
> earlier version of the GC?
>
III's the most recent. In my opinion, and the opinion of many others I
know, the GC's have been going steadily downhill. I feel the GC I's
were the best of the lot, but don't compare with Brunswick's older
tables like the Anniversaries.
Laura
Juddcues
>> What is the difference between a
>GC I and a GC III?
The GC I has a one inch slat with dowel pins aligning the slates together. GC
II is identical to a GC I except it has adjustable feet for leaveling the
table. A GC III has a 3/4 inch slate with no dowel pins to align the slates.
IMHO the I and II are better tables, with II being best.
I hope this info helps.
Judd Fuller
Ron Shepard
In article <19971217160...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
judd...@aol.com (Juddcues) wrote:
It may be possible to get a 3/4" slate on a GC III, but all of them that I
have seen have a 1" slate. BCA specs require a 1" slate (on commercial
tables, at least).
$.02 -Ron Shepard
Jerry Brunning
This does help, thanks.
Does this mean that the GC I does not have adjustable feet for leveling?
The room ID like to put it in is an addition to my house and I know for a
fact that the floor is not level. In fact I would guess that the slope in
the room is significant (about 1/4 to 3/8 inch spread over the length of 27
feet). Any suggestions??
Juddcues <judd...@aol.com> wrote in article
<19971217160...@ladder02.news.aol.com>...
> >> What is the difference between a
> >GC I and a GC III?
>
> The GC I has a one inch slat with dowel pins aligning the slates
together. GC
> II is identical to a GC I except it has adjustable feet for leaveling the
> table. A GC III has a 3/4 inch slate with no dowel pins to align the
slates.
> IMHO the I and II are better tables, with II being best.
>
Nixon
Ron,
I've assumed that all G.Crowns have one inch slate.
Mine does as do all those I play on.
However, Brunswick does make smaller (smaller than
4 1/2 X 9) and perhaps they put 3/4 inch slate on some of
them. Be interesting to find out. Maybe I'll go to Brunswick's
page and see if they will answer that question.
Dave
Ron Shepard wrote:
> In article <19971217160...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
> judd...@aol.com (Juddcues) wrote:
>
> >>> What is the difference between a
> >>GC I and a GC III?
> >
> >The GC I has a one inch slat with dowel pins aligning the slates
> together. GC
> >II is identical to a GC I except it has adjustable feet for
> leaveling the
> >table. A GC III has a 3/4 inch slate with no dowel pins to align
> the slates.
> >IMHO the I and II are better tables, with II being best.
>
> It may be possible to get a 3/4" slate on a GC III, but all of them
> that I
> have seen have a 1" slate. BCA specs require a 1" slate (on
> commercial
> tables, at least).
>
> $.02 -Ron Shepard
--
* /s/David E. Nixon n...@ibm.net KE4JIO 77E x 39N
* Optimism. The only attitude that makes any damned
* sense in this world is boundless, unrelenting, pervasive,
* continuous, undiluted, and all-encompassing optimism.
Jerry
It is not necessary to have adjustable leg levelers. The frame must be
square and level before putting the slate on. When leveling the frame make
shims out of wood, plywood or what ever is available. If in a basement and
floor gets damp, it's not good to use particle board. If the shims look
bad stain them. Round leg, round shim. Square leg, square shim. If they
happen to settle after a period of time you can slip a few playing cards
under them to fine tune the leveling.
Best Holiday Wishes,
Jerry P
Jerry Brunning <jbru...@nospam.megsinet.net> wrote in article
<01bd0b27$932c8380$aaa011ac@yavin>...
> This does help, thanks.
>
ARFJMB
>>>> What is the difference between a
>>>GC I and a GC III?
>>
>>The GC I has a one inch slat with dowel pins aligning the slates together.
>GC
>>II is identical to a GC I except it has adjustable feet for leaveling the
>>table. A GC III has a 3/4 inch slate with no dowel pins to align the
>slates.
>>IMHO the I and II are better tables, with II being best.
>
>It may be possible to get a 3/4" slate on a GC III, but all of them that I
>have seen have a 1" slate. BCA specs require a 1" slate (on commercial
>tables, at least).
>
>$.02 -Ron Shepard
The Gold Crown IIIs that I had in my poolroom all had dowelled 1" slate. They
are about 20+yrs old. The frame is hardwood. I also had some I's which are very
similar, the aprons are slightly differant. American made III's are much better
than the III's made today. I would say that I's or II's are best. I've heard
that Brunswick is going to be coming out with a Gold Crown IIII, that should be
interesting.
AF
Allan Bree
ARFJMB <arf...@aol.com> wrote in article
<19971224195...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
And furthermore...
The Gold Crown III that is being manufactured today overseas is inferior to
the Gold Crown III made some years ago when Brunswick still actually
manufactured their own billiard tables. I also concur that the Gold Crown
I and II are superior to any of Generation III - it's the table that earned
the Gold Crown its reputation, which it no longer deserves.
ARFJMB
>Does this mean that the GC I does not have adjustable feet for leveling?
>The room ID like to put it in is an addition to my house and I know for a
>fact that the floor is not level. In fact I would guess that the slope in
>the room is significant (about 1/4 to 3/8 inch spread over the length of 27
>feet). Any suggestions??
>
>
>Juddcues <judd...@aol.com> wrote in article
>> >> What is the difference between a
>> >GC I and a GC III?
>>
>> The GC I has a one inch slat with dowel pins aligning the slates
>together. GC
>> II is identical to a GC I except it has adjustable feet for leaveling the
>> table. A GC III has a 3/4 inch slate with no dowel pins to align the
>slates.
>> IMHO the I and II are better tables, with II being best.
>>
>>
>> Judd Fuller
If I remember correctly the GC I's I had in my poolroom had adjustable feet. My
GC III's all had 1" slate, these were American made III's manufactored in the
early 70's. 20+yr old GC's are the best, I prefer I's or II's.
Hire a table good mechanic to setup your table. The adjustable feet are
generally used for rough leveling of the frame. After the slates are install
they are tweeked with shims.
I can refer you to a good mechanic maybe, depending on where you live.
Otherwise go to several local poolrooms and ask them who they use.
AF
John McChesney
you may install a kit to make gc I accept adjustable legs...or build up
your floor...or shim like crazy on one end...under legs
ARFJMB <arf...@aol.com> wrote in article
<19971227174...@ladder01.news.aol.com>...
Sherm Adamson
The adjustable feet, I believe, were an option on GC I, II, & III's. The
particular dealers may not make this known. They order in what they
think they will be able to sell, and then, sell it as what is available.
It only makes sense. The only way I know of to tell the I's & II's
apart, except in the cases where they are stenciled (not all were), was
by the "under rail discs" that the rail bolts attach to. The I's have
the "figure 8" style like those used on the "Anniversary". (These were
used to hold the blinds on the "Anniversary's" but became obsolete on
the GC due to the way the blinds are tucked into the rail trim
extrusiion on the GC and not bolted to the rail). The early GCII's used
a flat circular "under rail disc" that was screwed into the bottom of
the rail. Later GCII's and GCIII's used an insert installed from the top
of the rail before the Formica rails caps were attached. These inserts
did not break as often as the brittle, hardened steel, "under rail
discs" BUT were much more of a headache in the long run. You see,
Brunswick, in their infinate wisdom, used a simple finishing nail,
nailed from the bottom of the rail, against the insert, to keep the
insert from migrating around. Pool table mechanics, not aware of this
subtle technique naturally removed the nails while stripping the staples
during the recovery process. The rails are flipped & turned frequently
while recovering and reinstallation leaving these discs all over and
often difficult to get the rail bolts started. Worse yet, lots were
striped out trying to get them started and tightened leaving the
possibility of insecure rails and a bad playing table. A good table
technician knows of these pecularities and should spot and repair loose
inserts early in the process. The only problem is there are far more bad
table mechanics out there than good ones. Personally I prefer the GC I's
and early GCII's as evident by the table in my shop.
8^)
Sherm
--
Sherm Custom Cues
3352 Nine Mile Road, Cincinnati, Ohio 45255
Shop (513) 553-2172 Fax (513) 553-0417
e-mail, sher...@iac.net
http://www.iac.net/~shermcue
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