My new Golden Eagle Carbine Hawk
Michael Picou
Hey there everyone... You may remember back 3 or 4 weeks ago, I posted about
getting a new bow. It is a Golden Eagle Carbine Hawk. I have been shooting it
ever since I brought it home and I love the bow. I have changed arrows since
I forst brought it home, and done a few other things to it. I wanted to give
the promised report of my bow's speed and ask a few questions.
I started with 2114 shafts at 24 inches and have changed to 2013s. I like
them much better. Well, I took it in and crono'ed it when I picked up my new
arrows. My forst shot was 219fps, second was 220fps and third was 221fps. The
AMO for my bow is 228fps, so I am close already, and I have 9 pounds left till
I peak it out. I have it set at 61 pounds shooting a ~330 grain arrow. That
puts me at roughly 5.4 grains per pound.
Does anyone have any input on the grains per pound importance for shooting
an overdraw. All I read was arrows shorter than 28 inches can go below the
recomended grains per pound. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't AMO 6 g/lb
and IBO 5 g/lb?
To take up for the lighter arrow, I put one of those hydrolic stablizers on
and it has made a tremendous difference in bow noise. Of course, I put it on
at the same time I changed arrows, but I wouldn't imagine a lighter arrow
obsorbing more vibration and rattle.
Last question... How does the speed of my bow compare in general. Is 220fps
very fast? (In comparrison to average)
The specs on my bow again are:
35.5 inch axle length
55 - 70 lbs set at 61 lbs
27" - 31" draw set at 27" with 3" overdraw
3 lbs 15 oz
24" Easton XX75 2013 with 4" feathers and 90 grain tip
shooting 220fps avg
Thanks,
Mike
Steven Blakeman
lot of 3d shooting. Top of the line bows today are getting well over
250fps with 330 gr. arrows. That doesn't mean you have a bad bow. Just
different.
Bruce Snyder
2213s. Check the chart. FWIW, I shoot 26-in. 2213s at 65 lb and 27
in. draw. I get a quiet 240 fps from my Darton Viper, and probably
about 10-15 fps less on my Oregon Nitro Express. If I remember
correctly, the Carbine Hawk isn't a speed bow, so don't expect much
more out of it over what you're already getting.
Also, you're better off with 6 gr/lb or better (the AMO std) if you
want that bow to last you awhile.
Michael Picou
Bruce Snyder <sny...@rose.rsoc.rockwell.com> wrote:
>Aren't 2013s a bit too weak-spined? I'd think you'd be better off with
>2213s. Check the chart.
Well, according to the Easton chart and information, the arrow that I
came up with, as well as the one that the guys at the archery shop came
up with is 2013. I realize that there are several different charts.
I went by my actual draw weight of 61 pounds. Shooting a 3 inch overdraw
adds 6 pound to my actual weight for calculation, as well as shooting with
a release aid adds another 5 pounds to my actual weight. This putting me
in the 70-75 pound range for a 24 inch arrow comes up with a 2013 or 1916.
The 1916 being the heavier arrow by 30 grains or so.
>I get a quiet 240 fps from my Darton Viper,
Darton makes a nice bow, but they are too big for me... FWIW I'm 5'7.5"
and 130 pounds soaking wet... I need that short light bow.
>the Carbine Hawk isn't a speed bow, so don't expect much
>more out of it over what you're already getting.
They advertise it for up to 228fps. I think for my purposes, it will
suffice. I am not going to get into competitive shooting. I have too
many other things that occupy my time. Hunt in the fall & winter,
play softball and fish the rest of the year.
>Also, you're better off with 6 gr/lb or better (the AMO std) if you
>want that bow to last you awhile.
I did have some concerns in this area, that is one of the reasons I got
the hydrolic<sp?> stabilizer. My bow is extremely quiet with only one
string silincer on top and bottom. My bigest problem is the darn rest.
Thanks,
Mike
Bruce Snyder
speed, as negative criticism. Frankly, the super-fast speed bows and
the gee-whiz-techno-gimickry spawned by the 3D game are a turn off to
me, too. My primary goal when I participate in a 3D shoot is to get
myself tuned up for hunting.
As someone else stated, speed's main advantage is in reducing the
margin of error wrt range estimation. No bow is fast enough to beat a
deer's reflexes - you'd have to exceed the speed of sound (1130 fps) to
do that.
If speed was so all-fired important, "traditionalists" and their
sub-200 fps recurves and longbows would never kill anything.
pwoj...@mailgw.sanders.lockheed.com
>From: NVM...@prodigy.com (Steven Blakeman)
>Subject: Re: My new Golden Eagle Carbine Hawk
>Date: 22 Aug 1995 02:26:32 GMT
I agree. I shoot a fairly cheap Browning Summit II at just about 200fps. I
used to worry about the speed, in fact Ive been turned off about going to 3D
shoots by some of the guys I talk to ("..200 fps...well, son, I wouldnt
consider showing up...") But then again these guys are all SERIOUS about
WINNING these events. My F&G club had a little psuedo 3D shoot on our land
this spring (12 targets, private event.) Turn out sucked but I had a blast...I
must have went through the course a half dozen times and did fairly well.
Anyway, 220 is on the slow end of todays 3D circles. Id say 240 - 270 is
average, above 270 is fast, but thats a fairly uneducated opinion.
Remember, the main focus for getting higher fps is to eliminate range
estimation error, both in 3D and hunting. Not many guys Ive spoken with or
read about think that an extra 30-50fps will eliminate a deer jumping the
string if its ready to bolt when you release. So if you can estimate your
range well, such as step it off to various landmarks when setting up a (tree
or ground) stand, 220fps is more than adequate.
Even at the 3D events, if you learn to estimate range very well you should be
able to score real well and have a blast as well. If you really like the bow,
put the chronograph away, tune it up and shoot!!
Paul Wojciak
Merrimack, NH
George Stoneberg
> adds 6 pound to my actual weight for calculation, as well as shooting with
> a release aid adds another 5 pounds to my actual weight. This putting me
> in the 70-75 pound range for a 24 inch arrow comes up with a 2013 or 1916.
> The 1916 being the heavier arrow by 30 grains or so.
My chart shows the draw weights appropriate for a 24" 2013 are 44-58# depending
on point weight. I guess if you stick to heads in the 75 grain range you
wouldn't be pushing the limits too much. However, I agree with the prior
recommendation of a 2213. I'm really surprised that the bow is quiet with
that light an arrow. It must be a nice bow.
George
g...@ohgua.att.com
Michael Picou
Bruce Snyder <sny...@rose.rsoc.rockwell.com> wrote:
>I hope you didn't take my earlier post about your bow, especially wrt
>speed, as negative criticism. Frankly, the super-fast speed bows and
No offense taken from your previous post, and I didn't take it as negative
either. Honest and informative...
I agree, accuracy is the most important thing. I stuck 2 deer last year
with a browning that couldn't have been shooting 200fps. I was just
curious to see what I had.
Mike
George Stoneberg
>
> 24" arrow
> 100 grain tip
> Soft cams
>
> Compound Bow w/ release aid
>
> 61 pounds + 6 pounds for 3 " overdraw.
Oops, I was using the speed cam column. If I go over to the energy wheel
columns (my chart's older than yours) I see that 100gr, 62-67# yields either
2113 or 2016. The 2013 only appears in the 56-61# row. Perhaps Easton
revised their chart between 92 and now. Sorry if I led you astray. I must
confess I assume everyone shoots a speed cam these days (that shoots a compound).
Bad assumption.
George
Jack Kelly
>>Subject: Re: My new Golden Eagle Carbine Hawk
>>Date: 22 Aug 1995 02:26:32 GMT
>
>>Plenty fast enough for hunting. You might want more speed if you did a
>>lot of 3d shooting. Top of the line bows today are getting well over
>>250fps with 330 gr. arrows. That doesn't mean you have a bad bow. Just
>>different.
to 290-300fps and after they do this they can't hit anything. Not everyone
can handle 300fps nor should they.
>
>I agree. I shoot a fairly cheap Browning Summit II at just about 200fps. I
>used to worry about the speed, in fact Ive been turned off about going to 3D
>shoots by some of the guys I talk to ("..200 fps...well, son, I wouldnt
>consider showing up...") But then again these guys are all SERIOUS about
>WINNING these events. My F&G club had a little psuedo 3D shoot on our land
>this spring (12 targets, private event.) Turn out sucked but I had a blast...I
>must have went through the course a half dozen times and did fairly well.
>Anyway, 220 is on the slow end of todays 3D circles. Id say 240 - 270 is
>average, above 270 is fast, but thats a fairly uneducated opinion.
>
I would say in todays 3D circles that 270fps is slow and over 310 is fast
most good 3D bows will do 300 or better at 60lbs or better at 5gr.
>Remember, the main focus for getting higher fps is to eliminate range
>estimation error, both in 3D and hunting. Not many guys Ive spoken with or
>read about think that an extra 30-50fps will eliminate a deer jumping the
>string if its ready to bolt when you release. So if you can estimate your
>range well, such as step it off to various landmarks when setting up a (tree
>or ground) stand, 220fps is more than adequate.
>
You are right again. Another 100 or 200 fps is not going to stop this.
L S Diehr (Lawrence)
: In article <DDs4G...@nntpa.cb.att.com>,
: George Stoneberg <g...@ohgks.att.com> wrote:
: >My chart shows the draw weights appropriate for a 24" 2013 are 44-58# depending
: >wouldn't be pushing the limits too much. However, I agree with the prior
: >recommendation of a 2213. I'm really surprised that the bow is quiet with
: >that light an arrow. It must be a nice bow.
: I am curious, which chart are ya'll using? I am looking at the:
: "Easton Hunting Shaft Size Selection Chart"
: 24" arrow
: 100 grain tip
: Soft cams
: Compound Bow w/ release aid
: 61 pounds + 6 pounds for 3 " overdraw.
: Either way, with or without the added 6 pounds, I come up with the
: same shaft.
: Help me understand guys, I don't want to make the wrong selection
: when I order a dozen....
: Thanks for all the input,
: Mike
Do the arrows group well at both short and long distance? Are the groups
still small at middle distance? If the answer is yes to all three,
then go ahead and order the shafts. If not, try another shaft until
you get it right.
--
Larry Diehr
IMHO - I _am_ right :-)
