Waxing board with candle wax.
Steve J Davis
to the Snowboard WAX?
FourSquare
that absorb proper snowboard wax and will slide as good as velcro on carpet
IFeelDizee
Anyways the wax just peals right off. Doesnt stick at all. Youll leave big
patches of wax on the snow.
Stephen Yiu Wah Lau
: I tried it out once in a begginers emergency a few years ago. DONT DO IT.
: patches of wax on the snow.
Uhh... you're supposed to scrape off the wax from the base and then
buff down what doesn't scrape off with a brillo or something...
How much wax do you have on your board to leave patches??
I use parrafin as a rub wax right before I ride... rub it on, buff
it off... makes a good wax job last a little longer... since you're
not melting the parrafin into the base and heating the base to expand
the pores, it doesn't really clog it...
--
Stephen Lau --> syw...@ucalgary.ca | I'd really love to tell
The University of Calgary | the devil to go chill...
Department of Chemistry |
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~sywlau/ | Office: SB429A/437 Lab: SB436
Jiba...@hotmail.com
Wax your freeride board. Don't scrape it. You are not interested in adding a
half mile an hour down groomers, the wax is only to provide a little extra
protection against bare patches, rocks, and the punishment of jibbin tricks.
If you scrape then you will have to go through the hassle of waxing more
often. Be advised that for the first run or two a waxed but unscraped board
is really slow.
Don't wax your freestyle board. It will only be ridden in the park, on nice
groomers. You don't need to worry about the base. But if the timing of the
park is messed up, i.e. you have to speed check for one table, and then you
pump as hard as you can but still can't clear the next table, then wax and
scrape your freestyle board. Maybe the extra speed will help.
Use an all temperature wax. They are cheaper, and less hassle then trying to
predict the weather for the next few days.
Wax and scrape and CLEAN your board daily in the springtime, with a real
spring wax, unless you like walking downhill. Use turpentine or paint thinner
to do the cleaning part. If your board is not spotless then the dirt will get
mixed in with the wax, and then into the pores of the P-Tex and then eat your
P-Tex. I can't believe it is october and I am talking about spring
conditions. I think I will stop writing while I am not too far behind.
Peace by bringing simplicity to a complicated subject,
Justin
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wye...@my-dejanews.com
I've used to cover the base when I store my board over the summer, so am I
mistaken and then clogged up my base?
In article <70eei6$n...@ds2.acs.ucalgary.ca>,
syw...@acs4.acs.ucalgary.ca (Stephen Yiu Wah Lau) wrote:
>
> I use parrafin as a rub wax right before I ride... rub it on, buff
> it off... makes a good wax job last a little longer... since you're
> not melting the parrafin into the base and heating the base to expand
> the pores, it doesn't really clog it...
>
wye...@my-dejanews.com
flat it almost felft like ABS activating.. just slowed down like crazy. If
you don't scrape don't you go REALLY slow?
In article <70evq2$bg0$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>,
IFeelDizee
from the many bare spots at my local hill (Snow Summit is only 2 hours from the
beach, you can imagine the snow we have). And the thin film i left first
bubbled then peeled off.
Youbinhad
way to do it, is just rub on the wax (not too much) than polish the wax into
the base with a paper towel. The was provides a film of water between the base
and the snow. Be temperature specific, and use a wax that will be close to the
temp. when riding. A universal wax is o.k. for most conditions. But remember,
do not leave a wax coating similar to a film, since it will crack, peel off,
and generally make a mess.
Trail work
Since nobody has answered your question yet, DON'T WAX YOUR BOARD WITH CANDLE
WAX!!!!!! I think you get my point.
Micky
DO NOT (REPEAT) DO NOT USE CANDLE WAX.
The wax is there to repel water and provide a frictionless surface for your
board to glide on as the snow underneath you melts. To make it as efficient
as possible much money has been pumped into the testing and manufacture of
different temperature waxes for your use. If candle wax was any good everone
would use that instead of spending hard earned cash on branded names. Either
that or candles would cost £10.00 each!!!!!.... : )
Go Go Goo
Same as a candle, except for the fact that candle paraffin has a lower melting
point. Paraffins come in a range of melting points (the temperature that the
wax melts). The softer the paraffin, the lower the melting point. But, the
higher the melting point, there's lesser amounts of water-repelling oil in the
paraffin.
Don't let the wax companies fool you with their techie talk and pictures of mad
scientists. I created a wax that is great in nearly all temps, and I'm no
rocket scientist.
For paraffin based waxes, all you have to do is find the right additives to
make the paraffin the hardness you want and as water-repellant as you want.
If you waxed with a candle, don't worry about it clogging the base pores. It
will melt again when you re-hotwax your board and mix in with the new wax.
Dana
Dan Savage
> The softer the paraffin, the lower the melting point. But, the
> higher the melting point, there's lesser amounts of water-repelling oil in the
> paraffin.
***************
Maybe I can get a somewhat related "candle melting question" answered here....
Miss Go Go, why do some candle waxes burn the skin more than others when
melted and allowed to drip on someone?
Noone, even at candle stores, has definitively answered this for me. I
assumed that more oil/fragrance in the candle created a "hotter" wax, but
this seems to disagree with one of your statements.
Do I want to buy "soft" lower melting point candles with "lots" of oil?
I have found that giant "candle in a jar" products tend to have cooler
waxes, but I would like to know the scientific reason for this if
possible.
-Dan
D...@SavageSnow.com
Stephen Yiu Wah Lau
: wax melts). The softer the paraffin, the lower the melting point. But, the
: higher the melting point, there's lesser amounts of water-repelling oil in the
: paraffin.
Parrafins are a mixture of hydrocarbon waxes... It's true that softer
parrafins feel more "oily" or "greasy" but not true that the higher
melting waxes are less water-repellant... The longer the chain
of the hydrocarbon, or the more crosslinked, the higher the melting
point, but that doesn't suddenly make the wax hydrophilic.
Commercial ski and board waxes are generally fluorinated, which
affects the gliding properties of the waxes... Adding powdered
PTFE is different from fluorination (as fluorination puts fluorine
into the hydrocarbon chains, while PTFE is just an additive and
doesn't incorporate into the chains...) I wouldn't use PTFE
additives as they can easily gum up the pores of bases...
: scientists. I created a wax that is great in nearly all temps, and I'm no
: rocket scientist.
Well, fluorination and crosslinking is something that you can't
do at home...
S
Go Go Goo
>Well, fluorination and crosslinking is something that you can't
>do at home...
No need. I won't dismiss the fact that flourination has some benefits. I do
believe it's over-hyped, and adds too much cost to the final product. Most
recreational snowboarders don't need flourinated waxes. The benefits are only
noticed when a stopwatch is being used, or when used in that particular wax's
ideal temperature range.
I don't use flourine, except for a powder like you mentioned, that I've
experimented with. Basically, I use the powder as an accent to my wax. It gives
a little bit more zip on moist snow. Again we run into the question of cost.
Does the average snowboarder want to pay $10 or more for a tiny cake of wax
that has stuff in it that won't be noticed on the mountain?
The wax I make has a very broad temperature range and is inexpensive to
produce. That is what the average snowboarder needs. Not some over-packaged,
over-developed, and over-priced wax. As long as it makes my board go fast on
the snow without emptying my wallet, it's good enough for me.
Thanks for the reply,
Dana
Go Go Goo
>And these additives would be....?
Top Secret, Man! If I give away my secret formula, I won't be able to afford
any lift tickets this season! :-) They're out there, easy to find, and more fun
to find the answer on your own. Keep reading this thread...
Dana
Go Go Goo
>Miss Go Go, why do some candle waxes burn the skin more than others
>when melted and allowed to drip on someone?
First of all, I'm a 'Mr.'. (I was born when the name meant 'man from Denmark' -
before the women's lib thing changed it's meaning).
My uneducated guess would say that it takes a hotter flame to burn a harder
candle since it melts at a higher temperature.
As far as the scientific reason, you'll have to ask the scientist from Calgary
that is in this thread. It probably has something to do with the amount of heat
generated from the breaking of the hydrocarbon chains.
Have fun with the wax!
Dana