What's a good way to remove them?
I see what looks like a plug at the rear of the heel plate but they're
not easily removed. I can keep trying.
I've removed the rubber bumpers. The plastic "S" snap-cover in the
front-center of the binding, over the front-center screw, doesn't seem
to want to come off. Do I just work a screwdriver under the front edge
somehow?
How do I expose the 2 side-screws? I don't see how to release the
"bail" so that it can flip out of the way.
Help? Links?
Thanks, JP
Jeff,
I've removed tons of these bindings. It really doesn't take rocket
science. Most of the time I can get my Swiss Army knife to remove the
plug in the back. Hold it vertically and run it around the plug as you
work it up. I have also used a real small drill bit and drilled a hole
in it and they ride up the drill bit. The S cap in the front comes up
really easy with the edge of my Swiss Army knife. Get the blade under
it and pry up. Than I take my knife and work it from the back of the
binding plate to the front. Be careful on this move with the knife.
Just get the knife under the plate and work free the glue tape. Don't
pry up but move the knife along. This works every time. Hard to
beleive you've never taken one of these off after all the knowlege and
experience you have.
Note that Solmon screws are not phillips, even though they look like a
regular cross, and they are made of hardenned steal. Cheapo
screwdriviers almost definitely will get stripped (if your ski shop
mounted the bindgins faithfully). I would get a badass screwdriver, or
better yet, get a specialized Salomon screwdriver
I believe that's a pozi-drive screw head you're referring to;...maybe a
#3...if the screws are sealed with epoxy, warming them will soften the
epoxy's bond.
Gene
Tornar Toolworks: http://www.tognar.com
I meant Tognar
>Where do you find a posidrive? I looked around a few months ago and
>failed.
Alpine ski shops often sell them. And a few other places -- here's an
example
http://www.reliableracing.com/category2.cfm?category=2600&header=BINDING%20TOOLS(POSIDRIVER)
You've gotten a lot of good advice already. We have a more direct
approach for the plastic cap at the tail end of the binding baseplate
- take a very small straight-blade screwdriver and stand it straight
up in the molded slot, rap sharply and drive the blade straight thru,
then pry it up. You can reuse it, we throw it out and replace w/ a
new one when the binding is remounted.
The screws are # 3 Pozi-Drive, many shops sell the screwdrivers, many
hardware stores also sell Vermont American bits for 1/4" magnetic bit
holders which we chuck into battery operated drills and yes, we always
adjust the clutch settings on them.
One thing not mentioned is what happens to the holes left over in the
ski. We always plug them w/ the proper sized plastic plug from an
assortment we have. The hole is glued, plug tapped into the ski and
lightly sanded flush w/ the topsheet. Of course, if the holes are re-
used they are glued again before sending the screws home.
- Bob
I've only installed one set of SNS Profil autos (for my wife). Never
removed them. Used NNN otherwise for decades.
I still haven't heard about how to get at the 2 side-screws. I can't
even see them. ? They appear to be hidden under the pivoting metal
shell cover---I don't see how to pivot it to expose the heads.
Anyway, then you lift off the heel plate section-chunk and pull it to
the rear and off of the front part of the binding and the side screws
are exposed. Now we're back in familiar territory and I expect no
further difficulties...
--JP
Jeff,
When I install SNS bindings, I through that stupid white plug away and
put a regular screw instead. So even if the plug got damaged when you
pull it out, just repace it with a regular screw. The newer pilot
bindings abandended the plug design altogether (I wonder what the
rationale for using the stupid plug was...)