Basic Questions about Roto Brushes
Larry Tomie
2. How sort of drill speed should I use?
3. How hard should I press down on the skiis?
4. How much/long do you brush?
Thanks
Jay Tegeder
Larry Tomie wrote:
> 1. Should I use my drill in "forward" or "reverse"?
forward
>
>
> 2. How sort of drill speed should I use?
good question, Al Herschlag or Primoz, are you out there?
>
>
> 3. How hard should I press down on the skiis?
I'd say decent pressure.
>
>
> 4. How much/long do you brush?
until the excess wax is removed.
Jay Tegeder
"Keep training, lycra never lies!" JT
Ben Goetter
> Larry Tomie wrote:
>
> > 1. Should I use my drill in "forward" or "reverse"?
>
> forward
Only true north of the Equator. In the Southern hemisphere, you need to
use the drill in reverse; otherwise, you'd be adding wax instead of
removing it. (Drills sold in Aus and NZ already compensate for this,
however.)
- Ms. Information
edga...@my-deja.com
The drill should rotate in the direction that the bristles move from tip
to tail. This is the same direction one would hand brush a ski.
> 2. How sort of drill speed should I use?
Nat Brown, author of "The Complete Guide to Cross-Country Ski
Preparation" writes that he uses a high speed because the speed stiffens
the brush's bristles.
>
> 3. How hard should I press down on the skiis?
Push hard enough for the bristles to penetrate your base structure and
remove wax from the valleys. Soft waxes require less pressure. If the
drill loses speed, you are pushing too hard.
> 4. How much/long do you brush?
Like had brushing, brush to remove excess wax.
Edgar
Skiing the Oregon Cascades when we have snow.
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
bi...@my-deja.com
I agree. The direction of the drill depends on which way your skis are
facing. The speed can be high, but the higher the speed, the faster the
friction will build. The pressure should be very light-not much more
than the weight of the drill-you want to remove wax from the structure,
not heat more in.Friction can build VERY quickly-try feeling a pair of
skis after brushing with firm pressure !Be especially wary of the roto
corks, you really can over heat a ski quickly with one of those.As
always, be sure to floss after brushing !
edga...@my-deja.com
Big2k is right about heat. I should have mentioned that I move the
rotating brushes up and down the length of the ski as it rotates to
minimize heat build-up at one spot. Moving the rotating brushes also
results in a more consistent finish.
Like hand brushing, the structure should open and feel waxy without
looking like it has wax. I also would polish with a white fibertex if
I wanted good glide right away. (When touring on old snow, I don't
mind letting the snow do the finish polish).
Edgar
jnob...@my-deja.com
> Nat Brown, author of "The Complete Guide to Cross-Country Ski
> Preparation" writes that he uses a high speed because the speed
stiffens
> the brush's bristles.
>
I have this book and so far it has benefited me tremendously. Still it
is the only book I have. Have you compared it to others? Are there
other titles which I should think about picking up?
~Jamie N
CnL
The skis have never (!) run trhis well. I don't know how he can do what he
does in a 24 hour day..
Lee F.
Derry,NH
jnob...@my-deja.com wrote:
--
MZ
Gilles Blackburn
Leif Torgersen. It is a good book too but Nat Brown covers pretty much all
of what someone needs to know.
Gilles B
Jay Wenner
: 1. Should I use my drill in "forward" or "reverse"?
Bristles move tip to tail.
: 2. How sort of drill speed should I use?
About 2000 rpm. Some use higher, but many cordless drills (unless you
spent a bundle) are too slow. I use a $35 corded Makita.
: 3. How hard should I press down on the skiis?
You shouldn't press down on the skis. With low rpm like the 500 or
so from cordless drills, most folks will push down on the ski and
melt the wax. Higher rpm means less pressure and the end result is
less heat and better wax removal (despite the higher rpm).
: 4. How much/long do you brush?
Until you cannot remove more wax.
Jay Wenner