adjusting binding settings
S.C.L. van de Ven
Can anyone tell me how to adjust my bindings in the right way or where I can
find information about it.
I bought new shoes and want to adjust the settings of my Marker M29V
bindings so my shoes will fit. Of course in the right way so I won't break a
leg when I fall :-)
Thanks.
Stefan.
Trippingonstaples
S.C.L. van de Ven <S.C.L.v...@wbmt.tudelft.nl> wrote in message
news:86dbf8$mph$1...@news.tudelft.nl...
borken leg or torn knee ligament.
Trippingonstaples
Randy & Linda
Trippingonstaples wrote:
> <snip>
> Go to a shop. It is less expensive to have them adjust it than paying for a
> -----"borken leg"??????????????? or torn knee ligament.
> Is this one of the hazards on some distant slope in Norway??
> Trippingonstaples
Trippingonstaples
Randy & Linda <ran...@telusplanet.net> wrote in message
news:388A6416...@telusplanet.net...
> > Is this one of the hazards on some distant slope in Norway??
> > Trippingonstaples
You know you're the first person to ask.
Trippingonfjords
Brian Wagner
> Can anyone tell me how to adjust my bindings in the right way or where I can
> find information about it.
> I bought new shoes and want to adjust the settings of my Marker M29V
> bindings so my shoes will fit. Of course in the right way so I won't break a
> leg when I fall :-)
Are you adjusting the boot size or release tension? For new boots you
shouldn't need to touch the release tension. As for length adjustment,
it's pretty simple. However, if you aren't mechanically inclined enough
to figure it out, have a shop do it. It's not rocket science, but you
can mess it up, and the fact that you are asking for instructions in a
text-only venue says you probably shouldn't be attempting it yourself.
As for adjusting release tension, the instructions that came with the
bindings have a chart for figuring out those settings, that is, if you
didn't throw them away.
Emmit Andrews
Brian Wagner <bwa...@mr.marconimed.com> wrote in message
news:388F0421...@mr.marconimed.com...
If you do eventually get your hand on a setting chart could you please send
me a copy.
Emmit
terry morse
the "To," "Cc," and "Newsgroups" headers for details. ]]
Emmit Andrews <Em...@emmit.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
> If you do eventually get your hand on a setting chart could you please send
> me a copy.
> Emmit
A DIN chart is posted on my web site:
<http://www.terrymorse.com/ski/din.html>
--
-terry
http://www.terrymorse.com/ski/
Al Clark
Look bindings. I need to remount to fit new boots. The ski shop says my
bindings are fine but since they are over ten years old, they can't (won't)
do them.
They told me I could move back the heel plate. Question. Can I just insert
the boot to locate the holes? The heel plate can move back under spring
tension. This does not look like rocket science, but I would like to get it
right.
Brian Wagner
Tyrolia and Salamon bindings allow the heel binding to be adjusted a
couple inches fore and aft without remounting. On the Tyrolias there's
just a locking screw you turn 90 degrees, and they move. Try to find
out if the Looks allow similar adjustment. If you have to remount, I
would carefully measure the soles of the old boots and the new boots,
take the difference, and locate the new holes that far aft of the
original holes. One caveat - you should be pretty mechanically savvy if
you're going to try this. If you call a plumber to replace a washer in
your sink faucet, then you shouldn't be DIYing your bindings.
terry morse
> I realize there may be legal issues of mounting bindings, I have a pair of
> Look bindings. I need to remount to fit new boots. The ski shop says my
> bindings are fine but since they are over ten years old, they can't (won't)
> do them.
Advice #1: get some new bindings. Manufacturers refuse to indemnify old
bindings for a reason.
>
> They told me I could move back the heel plate. Question. Can I just insert
> the boot to locate the holes? The heel plate can move back under spring
> tension. This does not look like rocket science, but I would like to get it
> right.
In order to release correctly, the forward tension must be correct.
Without the orginal instructions from Look, you may have some trouble
getting it right.
Advice #2: get some new bindings.
--
-terry
http://www.terrymorse.com/ski/
Trippingonstaples
Al Clark <acl...@danvillesignal.com> wrote in message
news:8ECCD273aclark...@192.168.0.4...
<snip>The ski shop says my bindings are fine but since they are over ten
years old, they can't (won't)
> do them.
No way. If Look won't stand behind their product no shop is going to.
Besides, bindings wear out just like cars and underpants.
Trippingonstaples
Brian Wagner
>
> Advice #1: get some new bindings. Manufacturers refuse to indemnify old
> bindings for a reason.
Translation - spend more money; feed the machine. Note where the
original post mentions that the shop says the bindings are fine - they
just won't alter them. This is as much a function of not keeping the
documentation around for ten years as anything else. There are shops
that will work on them, because they don't have some teenager doing the
work who can only follow instructions by rote.
> In order to release correctly, the forward tension must be correct.
> Without the orginal instructions from Look, you may have some trouble
> getting it right.
No, because like all technology, it is deterministic. If you have the
difference in the lengths of the boots' bases, and the old holes, you
can locate the new holes. HOWEVER, all this assumes you know one end of
a screwdriver from the other. If you have any doubts that you
understand what you're doing, then stick with the line below:
Richard Walsh
Brian Wagner wrote in message <3896E6C7...@mr.marconimed.com>...
>terry morse wrote:
>>
>> Advice #1: get some new bindings. Manufacturers refuse to indemnify old
>> bindings for a reason.
>
>Translation - spend more money; feed the machine. Note where the
>original post mentions that the shop says the bindings are fine - they
>just won't alter them. This is as much a function of not keeping the
>documentation around for ten years as anything else. There are shops
>that will work on them, because they don't have some teenager doing the
>work who can only follow instructions by rote.
Brian, you said the shop judged the bindings to be "fine". You didn't
say whether or not they were out of indemnification. If they are out of
indemnification, then you should probably get some new (or newer)
binding. If they are not out of indemnification, you should get a new
ski shop.
>
>> In order to release correctly, the forward tension must be correct.
>> Without the orginal instructions from Look, you may have some trouble
>> getting it right.
In all likelihood, there is some indicator on the heel that shows when
the forward pressure is correct.
>
>No, because like all technology, it is deterministic. If you have the
>difference in the lengths of the boots' bases, and the old holes, you
>can locate the new holes.
With a bit of care, AND the fact that you are NOT moving the toes,
this is a correct statement. Getting the toepieces cocked one way
or the other, even just a little bit, can greately alter the releasability
from one direction to the other. Heel pieces, as long as fairly close
to being centered, seem to be able to take a bit of misalignment.
> HOWEVER, all this assumes you know one end of
>a screwdriver from the other. If you have any doubts that you
>understand what you're doing, then stick with the line below:
>
>> Advice #2: get some new bindings.
Used sporting goods stores around here will sell you used bindings
at pretty good prices ($25 to $75) and will mount and test them for
you OR recommend that you have this done at a specialty shop.
What you actually do is up to you. One store in Rutland (near
Killington) has added certified techs and also sells closeout new
stuff. Specialty shops will also sell left-overs for sweet prices (under
$100) and will often maintain their policy of free mounting for any
equipment bought from them.
Now, if the bindings are out of indemnification AND if key
parts are plastic, consign them to the trash. Period. Remember
the thread on Exploding Nordicas and realize that plastic has
life expectancy and using old plastic on the hill may well result
in a walk down, rather than a good run.
Remember this thread started out as referring to Look bindings.
Now Look has been making bindings since at least the early
'60's, though back then they were exclusively metal/aluminum.
But both Look and Geze had serious materials problems just
a few years ago. That was when we (at the Bear Mountain Rental
Repair Shop at Killington) had a row of 20 to 30 broken heel
levers scavenged from Look and Geze heels that guests had
brought in to us to fix. Which, of course, we couldn't, since they
were BROKEN, not just pulled apart, of some other such problem.
RW