Suggested roof antenna for Sony portable
bw
However, most of the time I seem to have a lot of local noise, and I'm in a
shallow valley.
I have an old TV mast on the roof and some nice RG-6 that was left over from
the satellite install.
The old TV antenna was damaged by ice and only the mast is left, about 30
feet above ground.
There is also a wood post about 20 feet high located 80 feet from the house,
it would be pretty easy to string a long wire from the TV mast to the post.
Then attach the wire to the coax, then coax into the house and into the
external port of the Sony.
What would be a decent coupling for the wire to the coax. I'd also like to
ground the coax so that my house noise is minimal.
Ideas?
Dave
You'll need a balun to transition from the random wire to the cable.
This will also enable you to put the whole mess at DC ground which will
help protect the radio. Make sure the RG6 is properly grounded at the
point where it enters your house.
http://www.buxcomm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=802
Telamon
Dave <da...@dave.dave> wrote:
> bw wrote:
> > Now have a 7600GR, works well with the roll up clipped on the whip.
> > However, most of the time I seem to have a lot of local noise, and I'm in a
> > shallow valley.
> > I have an old TV mast on the roof and some nice RG-6 that was left over
> > from
> > the satellite install.
> > The old TV antenna was damaged by ice and only the mast is left, about 30
> > feet above ground.
> > There is also a wood post about 20 feet high located 80 feet from the
> > house,
> > it would be pretty easy to string a long wire from the TV mast to the post.
> > Then attach the wire to the coax, then coax into the house and into the
> > external port of the Sony.
> >
> > What would be a decent coupling for the wire to the coax. I'd also like to
> > ground the coax so that my house noise is minimal.
> > Ideas?
> >
> >
>
> You'll need a balun to transition from the random wire to the cable.
> This will also enable you to put the whole mess at DC ground which will
> help protect the radio.
Right, protect it against static electricity.
> Make sure the RG6 is properly grounded at the point where it enters
> your house.
For RF this is not necessary. If you do ground it outside the house use
a separate ground. Better would be to make one ground radial under the
single wire antenna and ground the coax to a ground rod.
> <http://www.buxcomm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=802>
No specifications but probably OK.
Connect the antenna to the red terminal and the ground radial under it
to the black terminal.
--
Telamon
Ventura, California
Dave
>>>
>> You'll need a balun to transition from the random wire to the cable.
>> This will also enable you to put the whole mess at DC ground which will
>> help protect the radio.
>
> Right, protect it against static electricity.
>
>> Make sure the RG6 is properly grounded at the point where it enters
>> your house.
>
> For RF this is not necessary. If you do ground it outside the house use
> a separate ground. Better would be to make one ground radial under the
> single wire antenna and ground the coax to a ground rod.
>
>> <http://www.buxcomm.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=802>
>
> No specifications but probably OK.
>
> Connect the antenna to the red terminal and the ground radial under it
> to the black terminal.
>
You don't understand how brutal lightning is in most places. A Type F
grounding block costs a couple bucks; an 8 foot rod is $8; a clamp is a
couple bucks (I trust he can scrounge-up some #10 copper wire); why skimp?
Telamon
Dave <da...@dave.dave> wrote:
If lightning is a problem then ground the coax but use a ground separate
from the antenna ground so noise currents from the radio plugged into
the mains has some isolation from the antenna circuit.
If the antenna ground is a wire on the ground under the aerial then the
coax could be attached to a ground rod.
--
Telamon
Ventura, California
BCBlazysusan
>
> - Show quoted text -
Nice site there Dave. Thanks. :-)
RHF
"BW",
So first you have a 75 Ohm Coax Cable running from
you Radio Shack up to an old metal TV Mast.
TIP - If this Coax Cable is more than 3-Years old
then replace it with RG6 Quad Shield Coax Cable.
* R/S Catalog # 15-1557
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062073
Second you have a Distance of 80 Feet to run a Horizontal
Wire Antenna from the TV Mast to a Wood Post.
STOP -Question- Do you have a Radio Shack Ground
-if-not- Make one to help protect : yourself, your home;
and your Radios. Run a Ground Wire from your Ground
up to and into your Radio Shack to Ground your Radios.
* R/S Catalog # 15-530
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103057
Find or Buy an 300 Ohm to 75 Ohm TV Matching
Transformer. The type with the two Wire Leads.
* R/S Catalog # 15-1140
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103912
Strip One Inch of Insulation away from both of the
Wire Leads of the TV Matching Transformer.
Next buy a 90 Foot Spool of UL-Recognized
Hook-Up Wire (22AWG)
* R/S Catalog # 278-1218
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036275
Attach {Solder} one end of the Hook-Up Wire to
one of the Stripped Leads of the TV Matching
Transformer.
Take the TV TV Matching Transformer up to the
Roof and connect it to the Coax Cable.
Secure the TV Matching Transformer and Coax
Cable to the TV Antenna Mast.
Run the Hook-Up Wire from the TV Mast out to
the Wood Post and Secure the Hook-Up Wire
with about Five Feet of small 1/8" Nylon Rope.
Connect the Coax Cable to your Radio using a
Standard “F” Jack to 1/8" Plug Adapter
* R/S Catalog # 278-257
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103466
Take either a Alligator Clip or a small Metal
Hose Clamp and 'connect' your Ground Wire
to the middle of the Outer Body of the Standard
“F” Jack to 1/8" Plug Adapter ///[X]==
NOTE - You will Notice that the 'other' Lead from
the TV Matching Transformer is not Connected
for now. This is because some/many TV Matching
Transformers are wired differently; and you may or
may not need to use this 'other' Lead.
Test your Radio with this Antenna Record {Write
Down in a Notebook] your Signal and Noise Reading
for several Shortwave Radio Stations in each of
the SW Bands. Call this your One Wire Readings.
Next go back up on the Roof and use a small Hose
Clamp around the "F" Connector and place the
'other' Stripped Twin Lead between the Hose Clamp
and the 'F" Connector. Tighten the Hose Clamp
so that the Lead is Secured to the "F" Connector
making good Electrical Contact.
Return to your Radio Shack and Re-Test your Radio
with this Antenna : Record {Write Down along side
the first set of Reading in the Notebook] your Signal
and Noise Reading for several Shortwave Radio
Stations in each of the SW Bands. Call this your
Grounded Wire Readings.
Remember Less Noise is preferred to More Signal
and Noise. So which ever Set of Reading is the
best for you is your best -be-it- One Wire Readings
-or- Grounded Wire Readings
simple, easy and low-cost + plus it builds on
what you already have - iane ~ RHF {pomkia}
.
Are You Interested in building a better Shortwave Listening
(SWL) Antenna ? {SWL Group} = http://tinyurl.com/ogvcf
GoTo = http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Shortwave-SWL-Antenna/
.
RHF's Standard "Shortwave Radio Listener (SWL) Antennas Group"
Reference Message Signature-Line = http://tinyurl.com/25zbrg
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.radio.shortwave/msg/411dac3b4a1798e0
.
* Remember 55.5% of Shortwave Radio Listening (SWL)
is the Shortwave Antenna = http://tinyurl.com/ogvcf
.
RHF's Radio Shack in Twain Harte, California -USA-
SHACK INFO = http://tinyurl.com/2skmxm
Shortwave Radio / Receiver and SWL Antenna Info
.
.
RHF
> Telamon wrote:
>
> >> You'll need a balun to transition from the random wire to the cable.
> >> This will also enable you to put the whole mess at DC ground which will
> >> help protect the radio.
>
> > Right, protect it against static electricity.
>
> >> Make sure the RG6 is properly grounded at the point where it enters
> >> your house.
>
> > For RF this is not necessary. If you do ground it outside the house use
> > a separate ground. Better would be to make one ground radial under the
> > single wire antenna and ground the coax to a ground rod.
>
>
> > No specifications but probably OK.
>
> > Connect the antenna to the red terminal and the ground radial under it
> > to the black terminal.
>
> You don't understand how brutal lightning is in most places. A Type F
> grounding block costs a couple bucks; an 8 foot rod is $8; a clamp is a
> couple bucks (I trust he can scrounge-up some #10 copper wire); why skimp?
IMHO - The 'original' metal TV Mast should have
been "Grounded" and the new Shortwave Radio
Antenna should also be Grounded. At least the
RG6 Coax Cable and an "F" Connector Grounding
Block will offer some level of Protection as good
as the TV Antenna did.
Dave - As you rightly point out it does not cost
very much to be save especially when you
consider the cost compared to the Cost of your
Home-$weet-Home. ~ RHF
.
.
Dave
The black terminal should connect to the grounded mast. Otherwise,
there are established procedures, as stated in the National Electrical Code.
Dave
By BIGDAVE Verified Reviewer from Columbia,SC on 11/30/2008
Pros:
Easy To Set Up
Cons:
Flimsy, Unattractive Design
Best Uses:
Portable Devices
Describe Yourself:
Power User
Bottom Line:
No, I would not recommend this to a friend
Comments about RadioShack Economy 4-Ft. Ground Rod:
Do it right the first time for the same money. This ground rod is a
violation of the NATIONAL ELECTRIC CODE and UNSAFE!!!! Go to [...] and
buy an 8 ft. min ground rod for less $$$/ Tap it in to the earth and
attach a # 6 bare wire to it with a proper connector. It costs no more
to be safe....maybe less. Absolutely less if you factor in injuries or a
fire in your house. I am an electrician for a living. Please do not use
this rod.
(from your first link)