MFJ-1025/1026 noise canceler

[Noel Waddoup]

Does anyone have any experience with either of these models? Are they
worth the money?

Thanks
Noel

[Mark Miller]

I bought a 1026 about a year ago and it works well. In my electrically noisy apartment, I feed the "aux."
antenna with an Worldcom technology loop and fed the "main" with a simple short wire. When you get the
hang of tuning this thing, the noise simply goes away.Two drawbacks though, this unit does attenuate any
signal starting at about 2 Mhz and worsens as freq. decreases. Forget longwave.Also, if you think
your getting rid of lightning crashes, this won't do it due to the variation in strength strenth and direction. The
best uses for this device are to remove noise of a constant but not brutally overwhelming nature,and
to illuminate unwanted radio station signals in favor of the desired one. My trick is to rotate the loop till the
noise is strongest and/or the desired signal is weakest, then using this signal to null out the noise from
the wire ant. I think if I had it to do over though, I'd get the JPS ANC-4 due to the mfj's attenuation
problem I mentioned above, but I'm not sure how well it works down in the noisy long and medium wave.

[Ralf R. Radermacher]

On 02.05.1999 at -3:36:29, mc...@busprod.com (Mark Miller) wrote
re: Re: MFJ-1025/1026 noise canceler

> I bought a 1026 about a year ago and it works well. In my electrically noisy apartment, I feed the "aux."
> antenna with an Worldcom technology loop and fed the "main" with a simple short wire. When you get the
> hang of tuning this thing, the noise simply goes away.Two drawbacks though, this unit does attenuate any
> signal starting at about 2 Mhz and worsens as freq. decreases. Forget longwave.

This can be cured by removing the SMD inductors at the two antenna inputs,
albeit at the cost of slightly higher intermod.

After removal of these parts, my 1026 performs quite well, down to about
100 kHz.

Cheers,
Ralf

Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG Koeln/Cologne, Germany

RX: EKD 300 & EKD 100 + EZ 100 RTTY demodulator/diversity unit,
more info on request
Ant: Rohde&Schwarz HE011, Datong AD370, GAP Titan,
home-made active vertical 3 kHz to 100 MHz
Comp: Amiga 3000T/060/50 MHz CV64/3D ScanMate

[Werner Funkenhauser]

Mark Miller wrote:

> <snip>When you get the

> hang of tuning this thing, the noise simply goes away.Two drawbacks though, this unit does attenuate any

> signal starting at about 2 Mhz and worsens as freq. decreases. Forget longwave.Also, if you think
> your getting rid of lightning crashes, this won't do it due to the variation in strength strenth and direction. The
> best uses for this device are to remove noise of a constant but not brutally overwhelming nature,and
> to illuminate unwanted radio station signals in favor of the desired one. My trick is to rotate the loop till the
> noise is strongest and/or the desired signal is weakest, then using this signal to null out the noise from
> the wire ant. I think if I had it to do over though, I'd get the JPS ANC-4 due to the mfj's attenuation
> problem I mentioned above, but I'm not sure how well it works down in the noisy long and medium wave.
>

> <snip>

Anyone interested in using the MFJ 1025/1026 on medium or long wave should read about Mark Connelly's modifications
which can be found at the Nordic SW Center.

http://www.nordicdx.com/antenna/special/mfj1026.html

--
Regards,
Werner Funkenhauser
Editor: ODXA Mediumwave Notebook
The WHAMLOG Page: http://home.inforamp.net/~funk

[Ron Hardin]

I like the ANC-4 which I use on MW with the $360 Kiwa MW loop as the
main antenna and a Terk (``metal building'') MW loop as the noise
antenna, because it has an output jack so it can be connected.
Plain old audio cable works fine. I've gone out to 60' and it lowers
the resonant frequency some but is fine. There's a Select-a-tenna
with an output jack as well, some model or other.

You can move the noise loop near the noise source, or near a power
cord, or wherever the problem is, with the Kiwa attenuated down
so you can get the noise set up. Then turn up the Kiwa and
phase the noise away.

For non-local noise, the setup does no better than the Kiwa loop
alone (two electrically connected adjacent loops equals a single
loop), which can cancel noise by itself but then you've used up
the nulling capability on noise and no longer have it for a competing
station. Having the ability to change either the ANC-4 or the
loop orientations does help in finding elusive null bottoms though,
one often being geometrically superior to the other.

For local noise, you can put one loop much nearer the noise than
the Kiwa loop and null out both the station and the noise.

The ANC-4 is wonderfully stable - it stays with the phase and
gain you set it at, so you can stay in a very deep null easily.

You do have to sort of visualize what you're doing with it - random
knob adjustments are not an easy way to find the null; you need
a geometrical interpretation of what you're doing electrically.

Apparently the ANC-4 has a birdie problem with regular antennas
but I haven't run into it with MW loops as the antennas at all.

I have been unable to get forward gain with two MW loops separated
by 60', which I had hoped would be possible, wanting to discriminate
front to back along the same line.
--
Ron Hardin
rhha...@mindspring.com

On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.

[John Barnard]

Hello Noel,

I have owned both a ANC-4 and MFJ-1026 noise cancellers and found the
MFJ-1026 to be a far superior unit (I've long since sold the ANC-4).
However, contrary to what the MFJ-1026 says in its catalogue, it cannot
be used effectively below 2 MHz without modification. I have had mine
modified and it makes a very good MW phasing unit. The mods didn't affect
it's ability to phase out noise.

Hope this helps.

John Barnard

[GJW Plimmer]

from Oom Jaapie,
I have one of these infernal things and cant get any joy out of it at
all. OM Frans did the MW mods on it, but with a 17 foot vertical as AUX and
a 55 foot longwire Windom as main antenna, I cant get any sensible
improvement at all, and that after hours and hours of fiddling and
experimenting on MW. A complete waste of money if you ask me.

Noel Waddoup wrote in message <372be53...@news.pix.za>...

[Gfmucci]

What is the preferred noise cancelling antenna for the 1026: A directional powered loop like the MLA-30, an unpowered, passive loop, or an omnidirectional like a minnie whip? This would be for setting up outdoors in a confined space. The main antenna is an MLA-30 12 feet high.

[Gfmucci]

On Sunday, December 5, 2021 at 12:34:45 PM UTC-5, Gfmucci wrote:
> What is the preferred noise cancelling antenna for the 1026: A directional powered loop like the MLA-30, an unpowered, passive loop, or an omnidirectional like a minnie whip? This would be for setting up outdoors in a confined space. The main antenna is an MLA-30 12 feet high.

What is the recommended minimum distance between the main antenna and the sensing antenna?

[Guglielmo Marconi]

Gfmucci <gfm...@gmail.com> wrote in
news:513ef473-425d-4eb8...@googlegroups.com:

> l powered loop like the MLA-30, an unpowered, passive loop, or an
> omnidirectional like a minnie whip? This would be for setting up
> outdoors in a confined space. The main antenna is an MLA-30 12 feet
> high. What is the recommended minimum distance between the main antenna
> and the sensing antenna?

Hi GF,
We here at MFJ Corp know that most of our customers are unable to read, so
I know this is going to sound like a stupid question to you, but did you read
the instructions?

Your best bet on the noise canceler, is to have a CB'er set it up and read you
the instructions on how to work it.

Thanks again for excellent question, and thanks for buying MFJ.

We're always Glad to help.

MFJ Tech Support