Cheers,
Richard.
--
Please remove the "NOSPAM" from my address if replying via email.
>I bought a 'paint can' style dummy load at a local HAM fleamarket recently.
>Can anybody tell me what liquid I need to fill it with ? (I forgot to ask
>when I bought it). I guess gasoline is not a good idea (only kidding !!),
>but what sort of oil should I use ?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Richard.
I believe Mineral oil would be the best. You can also use Caster oil.
"Richard Smith" <rsm...@NOSPAMplaneteer.com> wrote in message
news:JBVU5.2683$tj4....@tor-nn1.netcom.ca...
> I bought a 'paint can' style dummy load at a local HAM fleamarket
recently.
> Can anybody tell me what liquid I need to fill it with ? (I forgot to ask
> when I bought it). I guess gasoline is not a good idea (only kidding !!),
> but what sort of oil should I use ?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Richard.
>
On Tue, 28 Nov 2000 16:38:37 -0500, "Richard Smith"
<rsm...@NOSPAMplaneteer.com> wrote:
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
N8wwm wrote:
>
> Have a cb'er masturbate into it...that's a DUMMY LOAD if I ever saw one...
That's it. Into the SHITCAN with you.
What did you do with all the dummy loads you've wasted?
(Don't answer, you are the first one to make it into my killfile.
I might read the first sentence of a Dave/Debby post, but you're outta there!)
Richard Smith wrote:
> I bought a 'paint can' style dummy load at a local HAM fleamarket recently.
> Can anybody tell me what liquid I need to fill it with ? (I forgot to ask
> when I bought it). I guess gasoline is not a good idea (only kidding !!),
> but what sort of oil should I use ?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Richard.
>
Jeff
"Richard Smith" <rsm...@NOSPAMplaneteer.com> wrote in message
news:JBVU5.2683$tj4....@tor-nn1.netcom.ca...
Quoth twist...@webtv.net....
--
Muk_AU
http://www.desktopdollars.com/default.asp?id=muk69
"Jeff Mayner" <bk...@pacbell.net> wrote in message
news:t298sff...@news.supernews.com...
>Subject: Re: Dummy Loads - What liquid do you fill them with ?
>From: "Muk_AU" <muk...@iprimus.com.au>
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 22:20:51 +1100
>
>peanut oil is the best oil to use it wont get hot quick
>i have built a few dummy loads to test amps with and i use peanut oil
How many watts does it take to get the peanut oil up to temp. to fry turkey ??
I was thinking about buying a stainless steel turkey fryer. What is the max
temp rating of the dummy load ??? This may work out pretty good cause I need a
need a big dummy load and a turkey fryer.
Can you remove that dummy load from the 1 gallon pail ???
Lemme know
Thanx
Randy
>Muk_AU
>http://www.desktopdollars.com/default.asp?id=muk69
>"Jeff Mayner" <bk...@pacbell.net> wrote in message
>news:t298sff...@news.supernews.com...
>> Mineral oil.
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>> "Richard Smith" <rsm...@NOSPAMplaneteer.com> wrote in message
>> news:JBVU5.2683$tj4....@tor-nn1.netcom.ca...
>> > I bought a 'paint can' style dummy load at a local HAM fleamarket
>> recently.
>> > Can anybody tell me what liquid I need to fill it with ? (I forgot to
>ask
>> > when I bought it). I guess gasoline is not a good idea (only kidding
>!!),
>> > but what sort of oil should I use ?
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Richard.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Please remove the "NOSPAM" from my address if replying via email.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>From: "Muk_AU" <muk...@iprimus.com.au>
>Newsgroups: rec.radio.cb
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>Subject: Re: Dummy Loads - What liquid do you fill them with ?
>From: Brad KA8TOK <KA8...@four-way.net>
>Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 18:11:12 -0500
>
>Usually tranformer oil. or mineral oil. heck even motor oil will work.
>Transformer oil is the better one thou. You can ask for it at your
>local power company.
Make sure you tell the power company you want "new" oil. I`d bet that they
would be happy to give you all the pcb contaminated oil you can use. hahahahaha
!!!
Seriously, I think you can buy mineral oil in a drug store can`t you ????
73
Randy
>On Tue, 28 Nov 2000 16:38:37 -0500, "Richard Smith"
><rsm...@NOSPAMplaneteer.com> wrote:
>
>>I bought a 'paint can' style dummy load at a local HAM fleamarket recently.
>>Can anybody tell me what liquid I need to fill it with ? (I forgot to ask
>>when I bought it). I guess gasoline is not a good idea (only kidding !!),
>>but what sort of oil should I use ?
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Richard.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>Newsgroups: rec.radio.cb
>Subject: Re: Dummy Loads - What liquid do you fill them with ?
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>
I will try the mineral oil suggestion, as it is easier to get hold of, and I
do not plan on using more than 100 watts.
Cheers !
Richard
"Richard Smith" <rsm...@NOSPAMplaneteer.com> wrote in message
news:JBVU5.2683$tj4....@tor-nn1.netcom.ca...
> I bought a 'paint can' style dummy load at a local HAM fleamarket
recently.
> Can anybody tell me what liquid I need to fill it with ? (I forgot to ask
> when I bought it). I guess gasoline is not a good idea (only kidding !!),
> but what sort of oil should I use ?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Richard.
>
I wonder how long it will be before you work a station 1000+ miles away on
your dummy load. We all have done it.
I will take a picture of it before I dunk it seal it up.
Should I just fill it with motor oil or ATF? I'm leaning
towards ATF because of the wetting factor of that fluid.
How much power can it handle wet and what kind of duty cycle
should I use?
73 de Tim
Knight Patrol #82
http://www.kp82.com
Jim
"www.kp82.com" wrote:
>
> when it gets too hot unkey. theres no precision science at work.
>
Should I dunk my hand in the oil to feel the resistors?!?! <g>
In free air it handles a 10 watt dead key. It doesn't get hot
enough to burn my hand. The oil should transfer the heat away,
but in a sealed one gallon bucket, it's kind of hard to tell
when "it gets too hot".
Since it is agreed that transformer oil is over kill, should I
use 10W30 or Dexron II? I have a case of motor oil on the porch.
>when it gets too hot unkey. theres no precision science at work.
>
>>
>>I just finished putting mine together with 20 1K 1/2 watt resistors.
>>I used 4 packs of RS part # 271-1118 connected with RG-8M braid.
>>
>>I will take a picture of it before I dunk it seal it up.
>>
>>Should I just fill it with motor oil or ATF? I'm leaning
>>towards ATF because of the wetting factor of that fluid.
>>
>>How much power can it handle wet and what kind of duty cycle
>>should I use?
>>
>>Richard Smith wrote:
>>>
>>> I bought a 'paint can' style dummy load at a local HAM fleamarket recently.
>>> Can anybody tell me what liquid I need to fill it with ? (I forgot to ask
>>> when I bought it). I guess gasoline is not a good idea (only kidding !!),
>>> but what sort of oil should I use ?
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Richard.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Please remove the "NOSPAM" from my address if replying via email.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> 73 de Tim
> Knight Patrol #82
>http://www.kp82.com
Just piss on it!
Dummie wrote:
>
> Just piss on it!
Don't take them all, I need a few too...
On Thu, 30 Nov 2000 14:55:23 GMT, while the modem was pondering it's
navel, "JAMES HAMPTON" <j.r.h...@worldnet.att.net> dissertated the
following:
:+> Can you believe this ...[...]...
:+> I am having problems figuring out why some hams come into
:+> the CB ngs, spew their venom, and then have the audacity to wonder why
:+> people neither want their help nor appreciate their 'knowlege'.
:+> Excuse me please, I've gotta find a barf bag.
:+>
:+> Jim
Regards!
:+> Andy <+:
...
... You know you're a Hard-Core CB'er when...
... You have a Ham for dinner, and you *DO* remember
... what the Call-Sign was...
Mike
--
www.bcity.com/dino
w8ron wrote in message
<3a27d977$0$35389$6d9...@news.stratos.net>...
Speedbuggy714 wrote:
>
> Finally...... Mineral oil or transformer oil which will be hard
> to find but also may contain PCB's. Best bet is to get Mineral
> oil at your local hardware store or at larger grocery stores. ATF
> and motor oils are not the thing to use!
Please explain why motor oil or ATF are not good to use. Do you
have a wattage in mind when you say that?
Go ahead and tune your transmitter to a light bulb!
>
>T4A11 @T4D08 (B)
>Would a 100 watt light bulb make a good dummy load for tuning a transceiver?
>A. Yes; a light bulb behaves exactly like a dummy load
>B. No; the impedance of the light bulb changes as the filament gets hot
>C. No; the light bulb would act like an open circuit
>D. No; the light bulb would act like a short circuit
B
Although light bulbs have been used for dummy loads they
are not optimum. They do not present a good SWR to the radio.
A light bulb dummy load does have a benefit. It unlike most
wattmeters will show an increase in brightness/power with
modulation. Most average reading wattmeters because of the
simplicity of the design can not show the 50% increase in
power with modulation.
"Ramirez327948198" <ramirez3...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20001204153703...@ng-fc1.aol.com...
>I think you'd be surprised. A #47 light bulb is precisely 50 Ohms and
>works great for a 4W radio. You can also solder four of them together to
>up that to about 16W, which should cover off a stock CB 12W SSB rig. For
>higher powers, I think you'll find that a 250W Sylvania light bulb is
>deadly close to 52 Ohms. Think about it, the formulae is V2/R.
>(115x115)/50 = 250W. Just keep the lead lengths as short as possible and
>you should be fine on 27MHz and below. This is actually a good test of
>power as there is no arguing that a 250W light bulb that is glowing dim
>does not have 250W going into it.
The thread was about a 100 watt light bulb. I'm not sure what a # 47
bulb is. Certainly not 100 watts.
A 250 watt light bulb is 55 ohms at 117vac. At this voltage the
filament is hot and its resistance goes up. The filament in this bulb
when used with a 4 watt CB is considerably less than 55 ohms.
Although I don't have a 250 watter available I would guess it would
be closer to 10 ohms than 55 when used as a dummy load on a
4 watt radio.
<tn...@mucks.net> wrote in message
news:g7no2tcff9kl3vjlb...@4ax.com...
MC
MC 10kW Jesus wrote:
> I think you'd be surprised. A #47 light bulb is precisely 50 Ohms and
> works great for a 4W radio. You can also solder four of them together to
> up that to about 16W, which should cover off a stock CB 12W SSB rig.
Just how do you maintain 50 ohms when you parallel or series four of them together?
> For
> higher powers, I think you'll find that a 250W Sylvania light bulb is
> deadly close to 52 Ohms. Think about it, the formulae is V2/R.
> (115x115)/50 = 250W. Just keep the lead lengths as short as possible and
> you should be fine on 27MHz and below. This is actually a good test of
> power as there is no arguing that a 250W light bulb that is glowing dim
> does not have 250W going into it.
Maybe 52 ohms at 60 Hz, but who knows what it is at 27 MHz...a lot of difference.
JR wrote:
>
> MC 10kW Jesus wrote:
>
> > I think you'd be surprised. A #47 light bulb is precisely 50 Ohms and
> > works great for a 4W radio. You can also solder four of them together to
> > up that to about 16W, which should cover off a stock CB 12W SSB rig.
>
> Just how do you maintain 50 ohms when you parallel or series four of them together?
Make two pairs. Put two 50 ohm resistors in series. Makes 100 ohms. Then
put the two 100 ohm pairs in parallel. Makes 50 ohms again.
For a cheap dummy load, you can put twenty 1000 ohms CARBON resistors
in parallel. Or forty 2000 ohm resistors in parallel.
Simple average for several same value resistors.
For two resistors in parallel, the formula is:
R1+R2/R1*R2. This formula also works for capacitors in series.
Just make sure the values are in the same format (uF or pF).
Resistors in series just add up. Capacitors in parallel just add up.
(more below)
>
> > For
> > higher powers, I think you'll find that a 250W Sylvania light bulb is
> > deadly close to 52 Ohms. Think about it, the formulae is V2/R.
> > (115x115)/50 = 250W. Just keep the lead lengths as short as possible and
> > you should be fine on 27MHz and below. This is actually a good test of
> > power as there is no arguing that a 250W light bulb that is glowing dim
> > does not have 250W going into it.
>
> Maybe 52 ohms at 60 Hz, but who knows what it is at 27 MHz...a lot of difference.
Remember, a tungsten filament is coiled. This creates inductance that is added
in series to the bulb's DC resistance. That changes everything.
tn...@mucks.net wrote:
>
> On Tue, 05 Dec 2000 02:30:02 GMT, MC 10kW Jesus <qs...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >I think you'd be surprised. A #47 light bulb is precisely 50 Ohms and
> >works great for a 4W radio. You can also solder four of them together to
> >up that to about 16W, which should cover off a stock CB 12W SSB rig. For
> >higher powers, I think you'll find that a 250W Sylvania light bulb is
> >deadly close to 52 Ohms. Think about it, the formulae is V2/R.
> >(115x115)/50 = 250W. Just keep the lead lengths as short as possible and
> >you should be fine on 27MHz and below. This is actually a good test of
> >power as there is no arguing that a 250W light bulb that is glowing dim
> >does not have 250W going into it.
>
"Scott (Unit 69 Chesapeake Bay)" wrote:
> JR wrote:
> >
> > MC 10kW Jesus wrote:
> >
> > > I think you'd be surprised. A #47 light bulb is precisely 50 Ohms and
> > > works great for a 4W radio. You can also solder four of them together to
> > > up that to about 16W, which should cover off a stock CB 12W SSB rig.
> >
> > Just how do you maintain 50 ohms when you parallel or series four of them together?
>
> Make two pairs. Put two 50 ohm resistors in series. Makes 100 ohms. Then
> put the two 100 ohm pairs in parallel. Makes 50 ohms again.
>
Series-parallel is the way you have to do it, but the impedance is not likely to be
anywhere near 50 ohms at 27 MHz.
Scottiekins drools out his open mouth, splattering his keyboard with a mixture
of squirrel turds, Red Man, and saliva.
Hows the marriage going Scottiekins...are tnom and twistie being faithful?
"Scott (Unit 69 Chesapeake Bay)" wrote:
Remember, a tungsten filament is coiled. This creates inductance that is added
in series to the bulb's DC resistance. That changes everything.
JR wrote:
>
> "Scott (Unit 69 Chesapeake Bay)" wrote:
>
> > JR wrote:
> > >
> > > MC 10kW Jesus wrote:
> > >
> > > > I think you'd be surprised. A #47 light bulb is precisely 50 Ohms and
> > > > works great for a 4W radio. You can also solder four of them together to
> > > > up that to about 16W, which should cover off a stock CB 12W SSB rig.
> > >
> > > Just how do you maintain 50 ohms when you parallel or series four of them together?
> >
> > Make two pairs. Put two 50 ohm resistors in series. Makes 100 ohms. Then
> > put the two 100 ohm pairs in parallel. Makes 50 ohms again.
> >
>
Do yourself a favor and just try it. Don't proclaim something as being
-not likely to be anywhere near 50 Ohms- until you try it yourself. I
have done it and I assure you it is deadly close to 50 Ohms at 27MHz and
110% safe. A couple of messages back you didn't know how to get 50 Ohms
from four 50 Ohm loads used together and now you have the audacity to
question my original premise without even investigating it? Turn the
computer off, go to the local library and get up to speed on basic
electronics. Then you can come back and add some value to the group.
MC just got down!
JR wrote:
>
> "Scott (Unit 69 Chesapeake Bay)" wrote:
>
> > JR wrote:
> > >
> > > MC 10kW Jesus wrote:
> > >
> > > > I think you'd be surprised. A #47 light bulb is precisely 50 Ohms and
> > > > works great for a 4W radio. You can also solder four of them together to
> > > > up that to about 16W, which should cover off a stock CB 12W SSB rig.
> > >
> > > Just how do you maintain 50 ohms when you parallel or series four of them together?
> >
> > Make two pairs. Put two 50 ohm resistors in series. Makes 100 ohms. Then
> > put the two 100 ohm pairs in parallel. Makes 50 ohms again.
> >
>
MC 10kW Jesus wrote:
> JR,
>
> Do yourself a favor and just try it. Don't proclaim something as being
> -not likely to be anywhere near 50 Ohms- until you try it yourself. I
> have done it and I assure you it is deadly close to 50 Ohms at 27MHz and
> 110% safe.
And just how did you measure this impedance so that you know is so deadly close to 50 ohms
at 27 MHz?
> A couple of messages back you didn't know how to get 50 Ohms
> from four 50 Ohm loads used together and now you have the audacity to
> question my original premise without even investigating it? Turn the
> computer off, go to the local library and get up to speed on basic
> electronics. Then you can come back and add some value to the group.
I know perfectly well how to series/parallel resistances/impedances to arrive at another
resistance/impedance. I just wondered if you did. As far as basic electronics, my entire
career has been in electronics/computers. I was probably working in electronics before you
were born.
With a VSWR bridge. Funny, when the load is exactly 50 Ohms, there is no
deflection in the reverse direction.
> I know perfectly well how to series/parallel resistances/impedances to arrive at another
> resistance/impedance. I just wondered if you did. As far as basic electronics, my entire
> career has been in electronics/computers. I was probably working in electronics before you
> were born.
I will resist the temptation to pose a question to you that will
embarrass you even further.
MC