What makes crackle( wrinkle) paint crackle (wrinkle)??
WB3U
>I don't know exactly *why* paint gives a crackle finish (it has
>something to do with the solvent and color coat drying times), but I
>do know that the black gives the best crackle finish. Use that as an
>*undercoat* and just use ordinary paint over it to get the color you
>want.
Also make sure the color coat isn't lacquer-based or it may cause the
crackle paint to lift off the surface. To identify lacquer, look for
nitrocellulose as one of the ingredients. A dry time of less than
a half hour usually also indicates lacquer (or one of its cousins).
73,
Jack WB3U
Gary Coffman
>Robert M. Miller (rmmi...@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
>
> rm> Need paint for Heathkit fine wrinkle green as used on the HW
> rm> and SB series radios.
> rm> Bob, KE6F
>
>When I was in High School, the electric shop teacher was very fond
>of wrinkle finishes. All we used was black enamel. But the way to
>make any paint wrinkle is to bake it in a warm oven before it dries.
>As it dries. At the time, I was curious what paint we were using,
>and I was mildly surprised to find that it was ordinary enamel.
>(I cannot tell you how hot to run the oven, but I think 150 to 170
>should probably do it. I remember that the oven was not hot enuf to
>burn your skin if you touched it.)
>Charles
I routinely use oven drying for enamel paints, as do the auto
manufacturers for their finishes. It won't give you a wrinkle
effect unless the drying agents in the paint allow it to wrinkle.
I looked this up after the first round. Wrinkle finish paints
use *two* carefully chosen solvents with different drying times
in order to achieve the wrinkle effect. One of the solvents needs
to be very volatile, the other not.
Ordinary enamel paints may use more than one solvent too, but
normally their drying times are similar, hence no wrinkles.
It may be that the particular paint you used had solvents that
volatilized sufficiently differently when heated to achieve a
wrinkle finish, but that's not the normal way baked enamels
behave. I've found that when using Krylon I get a much
*smoother* finish when I bake it than if I let it dry at
room temperature.
Gary
--
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Gary Coffman
>
>Or something like that. Oh, the poster who said the Heath finish
>wasn't crackle is correct. I believe the correct term for the Heath
>finish is hammertone, and I DON'T know how to do that one easily.
I don't recall a Heath with a hammertone finish (but that doesn't mean
they never used it). That was the finish on old Bud boxes. It vaguely
resembles a sheet of metal that has been lightly hammered with a ball
peen hammer, IE a pattern of varying grey tones, thus the name. The Heaths
I recall all had a textured finish, like that delivered by a roller or a
"spatter" gun. BTW, I seem to recall someone here recently recomending
using a roller to achieve a nice textured cabinet finish.
And I don't know how to achieve a true hammertone finish either.
WB3U
>Oh, the poster who said the Heath finish wasn't crackle is correct.
>I believe the correct term for the Heath finish is hammertone, and I
>DON'T know how to do that one easily.
Early SB-series Heath gear is definitely not hammertone - it is indeed
a wrinkle finish. I can't comment on how Heath applied it, however.
Incidentally, does anyone else remember Heath selling touch-up paint
at one time for that equipment? I seem to remember being told that it
was available in a regular spray can. Yes? No?
73,
Jack WB3U
K2EK
ja...@pinetree.microserve.com (WB3U) writes:
>Early SB-series Heath gear is definitely not hammertone - it is indeed
>a wrinkle finish. I can't comment on how Heath applied it, however.
>
>Incidentally, does anyone else remember Heath selling touch-up paint
>at one time for that equipment? I seem to remember being told that it
>was available in a regular spray can. Yes? No?
>
>
Jack et al... Heath used several color schemes over the years. My first
transmitter - a DX-20 - had a medium grey wrinkle cabinet with a
semi-gloss light grey fron panel. I am currently restoring a IM-18 VTVM
which has a light brown or tan semi gloss front panel and darker brown
"splatter" cabinet. It looks a little like semi-glass latex applied with
a roller. I am also restoring a SB-610 monitor scope which is the more
recent light and dark green and is definately wrinkle. A similar color
scheme was used in the early 60s (Mohawk, Marauder, Warrior, etc) but they
were gloss enamel for both panels and cabinets.
I too remember touch up paint being available in a spray can.
Bill K2EK
Glenn Sparks
tried to emulate the Heath, for hammertone, our local ACE hardware
store carries it. I haven't tried it, but probably should on an old
pair of Morrows I am restoring.
Glenn Sparks
In <1996Mar13.1...@ke4zv.atl.ga.us> ga...@ke4zv.atl.ga.us (Gary
Coffman) writes:
>
>In article <4i5amm$d...@hg.oro.net> rst-...@oro.net (Jim Weir) writes:
>>
>>Or something like that. Oh, the poster who said the Heath finish
>>wasn't crackle is correct. I believe the correct term for the Heath
>>finish is hammertone, and I DON'T know how to do that one easily.
>
Joe Mack
>In article <4i5amm$d...@hg.oro.net> rst-...@oro.net (Jim Weir) writes:
>>
>I don't recall a Heath with a hammertone finish (but that doesn't mean
>they never used it). That was the finish on old Bud boxes. It vaguely
>resembles a sheet of metal that has been lightly hammered with a ball
>peen hammer, IE a pattern of varying grey tones, thus the name. The Heaths
>I recall all had a textured finish, like that delivered by a roller or a
>"spatter" gun. BTW, I seem to recall someone here recently recomending
>using a roller to achieve a nice textured cabinet finish.
>
>And I don't know how to achieve a true hammertone finish either.
A friend of the family's (when I was a kid) worked for a paint
company and he once brought me home a 1pt can of hammertone
paint, which I promptly used on everything metal I had.
So hammertone isn't anything you do, you just paint it on.
Beyond that I have no idea.
Joe Mack NA3T
ma...@ncifcrf.gov
Jim Weir
of wisdom:
>It was expained to me that the Heath light green finish as found on the SB series is
>not a crackle finish. In fact, that finish is accomplished by some sort of
>spattering process using a special paint spraying nozzle. Ron Eisenbrey, who
>refinishes vintage ham gear, just finished a batch of Heath equipment. It'll
>probably be some time before he gets around to Heath again.
If I'm not mistaken (and I frequently am) we used to get a good
crackle finish by first applying enamel, waiting until it set up
tacky, then oversprayed with lacquer. Somehow the solvents in the two
varieties hated each other and got to fighting amidst the hills and
crevices of the finish.
Or something like that. Oh, the poster who said the Heath finish
wasn't crackle is correct. I believe the correct term for the Heath
finish is hammertone, and I DON'T know how to do that one easily.
Jim
Jim Weir VP Engineering | You bet your sweet patootie I speak for the
RST Engineering | company. I OWN the cotton-pickin' company.
Grass Valley CA 95945 |
http://www.rst-engr.com | AR Adv WB6BHI--FCC 1/C phone--Cessna 182A N73CQ
rst-...@oro.net | Commercial/CFI-Airplane/Glider-----A&P Mechanic
Rich Mulvey
>Lee Blaske <lbl...@pclink.com> shared the following priceless pearls
>of wisdom:
>
>>It was expained to me that the Heath light green finish as found on the SB series is
>>not a crackle finish. In fact, that finish is accomplished by some sort of
>>spattering process using a special paint spraying nozzle. Ron Eisenbrey, who
>>refinishes vintage ham gear, just finished a batch of Heath equipment. It'll
>>probably be some time before he gets around to Heath again.
>
>If I'm not mistaken (and I frequently am) we used to get a good
>crackle finish by first applying enamel, waiting until it set up
>tacky, then oversprayed with lacquer. Somehow the solvents in the two
>varieties hated each other and got to fighting amidst the hills and
>crevices of the finish.
>
>Or something like that. Oh, the poster who said the Heath finish
>wasn't crackle is correct. I believe the correct term for the Heath
>finish is hammertone, and I DON'T know how to do that one easily.
>
Well, you can get Hammertone(tm) paint at many craft shops - I
use it for all of my homebrew rigs, and love it.
- Rich
---
Rich Mulvey, aa2ys Rochester, NY USA
mul...@vivanet.com
aa...@net.wb2psi.ampr.org
aa2ys@wb2psi.#wny.ny.us