Alinco dj-580
Andrew John Murrell
Hi,
I've got a alinco dj-580 handheld that appears to be playing up.
When i turn it on it works ok for a few seconds, then it seems to go deaf on
2, and not transmit on 70 (but still tx's on 2, and rx's on 70). I have noticed
that when it is acting up, and you tx on 70 (or at least try to :-)), the on airlight flashes.
has anyone got any ideas what wrong?
andy, g7ueh
email - ee9...@brunel.ac.uk
www - http://http2.brunel.ac.uk:8080/~ee95ajm
bbs (ax25) - g7ueh@gb7bst (or at least it will be in & when i get
the radio working :) )
Ken Oliver
I had the same fault about two years ago it turned out to be a
problem with the switching circuit that controls the band change
over, Mine was fixed by Walters & Stanton took,about 2 weeks I don't
know if it's a regular fault but it was fine afterwards,
Regards
Ken Oliver G4SLG@GB7DTX
In article
<4ddpa0$2...@ccsp-22.brunel.ac.uk>, Andrew John Murrell
...Your deeds will follow you through life like shadows....
Greg Dolkas
:
:
: I've got a alinco dj-580 handheld that appears to be playing up.
: When i turn it on it works ok for a few seconds, then it seems to go deaf on
: 2, and not transmit on 70 (but still tx's on 2, and rx's on 70). I have noticed
: that when it is acting up, and you tx on 70 (or at least try to :-)), the on airlight flashes.
Isn't the "on-air light flashing" the radio's way to tell you that the SWR is
too high? I seem to remember that (but of course the manual isn't near by).
If so, this could be the "broken center pin on the BNC connector" problem.
An easy check is to wiggle the antenna as you receive a moderate signal, and
see if it cuts in and out.
Fixing the bloody thing isn't that hard, as long as you have steady hands,
good eyes, and a very small soldering iron. If you want a blow-by-blow
walk through, let me know. I think I've still got the write up I did after
my first experience with this problem.
Good luck,
Greg KO6TH
Andrew John Murrell
eaten the last one.
I've partly solved the problem, on further investigation last night
i found that the plastic on the battery connection plate was warped
so i remove the plate, it appears that the radio has become 'very'
hot at some point, as the negative battery lead has become
unsoldered. The problem now is, where do i resolder the lead
(the negative is the grey lead) there is a "-" in a box on the pcb
but do i resolder the wire to the pad to the left (which has a
capacitor lead soldered to it, or the one below it ?
The other problem is, how do i open up the case, as far as i can tell
there are three screws holding it together, one above the ptt, one below
and one where the wrist strap goes. But when these are removed the
top still seems to be fixed to some thing?
andy, g7ueh
ga1...@evax01.d51.lilly.com
connector gets really sloppy... of course, any BNC does this but the 580 seems
to be worse than others... I made mine worse by hanging a BNC-to-SO239
transition and an SO239 (UHF) connector to the car's antenna coax so I can
use the 580 as a mobile... I also got a remote mic so I could lock the HT down
and not flex the antenna connection
Anybody solved the problem? Yeah, with the Alinco rubber duck there is no stress
on the BNC connector.... but a rubber duck ain't that hot... and I did not see
any easy way to replace the BNC
Mel KJ9C
wa...@pop.uky.edu
>Isn't the "on-air light flashing" the radio's way to tell you that the SWR is
> too high?
No, the on-air light means that the PLL can't lock.. Such as when there is
a problem with the PLL, or the radio is really far out of band. Same as the
receive PLL when the second dot flashes for a few seconds when you RX out
of band until it locks onto frequency.
> I seem to remember that (but of course the manual isn't near by).
>If so, this could be the "broken center pin on the BNC connector" problem. An
>easy check is to wiggle the antenna as you receive a moderate signal, and see
>if it cuts in and out.
This could be the case for the unlocking problem, however I believe that it
was mentioned that one band will RX and the other TX, but not both. This
leads me to believe something fairly drastic has happened to the radio.
>Fixing the bloody thing isn't that hard, as long as you have steady hands,
>good eyes, and a very small soldering iron. If you want a blow-by-blow
>walk through, let me know. I think I've still got the write up I did after
>my first experience with this problem.
If this doesn't work, send it to Alinco.. If you're lucky their repair bill
plus $100 won't buy you a new one like the bill they're trying to charge ME
with.
>Good luck,
Same here..
Larry Schroeder
>Greg KO6TH brings up a recurring problem with my DJ-580.... the danged BNC
>connector gets really sloppy... of course, any BNC does this but the 580 seems
>to be worse than others... I made mine worse by hanging a BNC-to-SO239
>transition and an SO239 (UHF) connector to the car's antenna coax so I can
>use the 580 as a mobile... I also got a remote mic so I could lock the HT down
>and not flex the antenna connection
>
>Anybody solved the problem? Yeah, with the Alinco rubber duck there is no stress
>on the BNC connector.... but a rubber duck ain't that hot... and I did not see
>any easy way to replace the BNC
>
>Mel KJ9C
>
>
>> If so, this could be the "broken center pin on the BNC connector" problem.
>> An easy check is to wiggle the antenna as you receive a moderate signal, and
>> see if it cuts in and out.
>>
>> good eyes, and a very small soldering iron. If you want a blow-by-blow
>> walk through, let me know. I think I've still got the write up I did after
>> my first experience with this problem.
>>
>>
>> Greg KO6TH
Hello,
I have a 580 also and twice now my antenna connector had to be worked on.
The first time was just from use. The second time because I dropped the
unit. The way to fix it is to open up the radio and re-solder it back
together. You may need to push the connector up a bit before doing the
soldering. This makes it tight against the case again. Generally when the
connector gets lose, the output of radio drops off.
Larry Schroeder
lschr...@vnet.ibm.com
KD4HSL
Gregory K Doerschler
<ga1...@evax01.d51.lilly.com> wrote:
>Greg KO6TH brings up a recurring problem with my DJ-580.... the danged BNC
>connector gets really sloppy... of course, any BNC does this but the 580 seems
You'll notice that center conductor of the BNC connector on the DJ-580 is
shaped kind of like a little fork, and only makes contact with the mating pin
on two sides. Higher quality BNC connectors have contacts which completely
surround the center pin. I replaced the one in my DJ-580 with one of these,
and it's made the connection much more reliable. I did have to file the hole
in the case a bit and eliminate the rubber grommet that fits over the
connector since it prevented the antenna attaching.
The other problem with the DJ-580 BNC is that internally the center contact
is soldered directly to a rigid pin protruding from the PC board such that
there is nothing in the system that will flex when stress is placed on the
connector. That's why the solder connection between the pin and center
contact tends to break. When I installed the new connector, I added a
small, flexible piece of wire with a little bit of slack in it between the
BNC and PC board pin to take up any stress. So far, it's worked fine.
Be aware that replacing the BNC does require a good deal of disassembly.
Unless you're someone like me who's constantly swapping antennas and
sticking the radio in a pocket, the stock BNC connection might well prove
to be completely adequate.
Greg
N1DEM
Robert G Miles
with deafness .. perhaps its due to leakage from 2m to 70cm through
the diplexer when using the rubber duck ant. Boy they are a poor match on 2m!
Waters and Stanton have fixed them quickly end efficiently.
Regards
GM4CAQ
Dr. Richard W. Musicer
Murrell) writes:
>The other problem is, how do i open up the case, as far as i can tell
>there are three screws holding it together, one above the ptt, one
below
>and one where the wrist strap goes. But when these are removed the
>top still seems to be fixed to some thing?
Right you are! There are secret nuts that are on each of the pots and
the selector knob on the top. Pull the knobs off and then loosen the 3
nuts. (Work them around by placing a small screwdrive in the grooves.)
After you remove these, the case will open up. Look in the mods
section of the RSGB web pages under the 580 and a complete description
will be found there in one of the articles.
I just had mine apart last week to repair cold solder joints.
GL/73 de Rick, N6CR in Atlanta.
Stefan Kowal
notice that the set has gone very deaf and that you cannot get
into the local repeater. Each time I have found the soldered joint
from the centre pin of the BNC to the board to be the problem.
The position is a pig to get to and you have to remove the boards,
though you do not have to cut any wires or similar, just let them
hang loose.
After the second time it happenned I used a small bit of braid
solderd in to make the connection. It is a job the requires a
little patience but it worked and I have had no problems since (
must be about two years ago since I did the job.)
Regards,
Stefan G0BJW