Concrete pond repair
Mike
been in service since around 1930. It is constructed of reinforced
concrete and is bordered by large rocks that are mortared together to
make up the outer rim of the pond. About thirteen years ago repaired a
crack that went across the width of the pond and apparently it is now
leaking once again due to slow settling. Some of the big rocks have
also pulled away from the pond and thus created leaks that have lowered
the water level a depth of only sixteen inches or less.
This weekend is repair time. We are expecting to clean out the crack
(or cracks) in the bottom of the pond and then use mortar to repair
them. Basically the same plan for the rocks, but we will have to find
someway to make a foundation for them so they don't pull away from the
pond again in the future.
Does this sound like the best plan of action for crack repair? Anything
better than plain old cement and sand mortar?
After the cracks are repaired and cured we are planning on sealing the
concrete. I have heard that epoxy fiberglass type sealers are sometimes
used, but I'm wondering how durable that method is with regards to UV
light deterioration. How about that stuff called SNOW-COAT(?) or
something like that? I remember seeing this stuff mentioned on here?
Are darker colors of SnowCoat available or only white as I have seen at
Home Depot? Is Snow-Coat non-toxic and any special recommendations for
use of this product?
Any advice would help keep this classic pond full would be greatly
appreciated!
Thanks,
Mike in Seattle
tomato lord
problem.
To fix it the pond is going to be some work, to get the elastameric
coatings to stick you have to refinish the concrete.
Basically you have to strip the top layer of concrete off and apply the
coating, otherwise it will not stick.
So first you have to drain the pond powerwash it to get the majority of
loose stuff off and thorughly clean the cracks.
Then I applied hydraulic cement into the cracks. Really as an effort
to stabilize the walls.
However, I never did the coating becuase it cost too much.
So I just put in a permalon liner in instead.
I put down old carpets and whatever over the concrete.
I just popped off the rocks lining the pond and layed down the liner.
Then I put the rocks back down over the edge. I guess I could concrete
the rocks back in, but I have chosen not to.
Plus the coatings are not gauranteed to be water proof they are water
resistant, so wherever the coating is the thinest it will leak and or
seep water. This is what my neighbor told me. Unless you apply it
very thickly and then it wont. But if you are going to apply it
thickly then just go with the liner. These coatings were designed for
walls and other things where the water rolls off and does not pool.
This was the easiest long term solution, the permalon liner was only
$60 or so from www.kenco.com
I figured I would never be able to permanently stop the concrete from
cracking and the permalon liner was much much cheaper than doing the
coatings....
Martin
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how
cures and it CURES FAST. It is available at hardware stores. Mix very small
amounts until you get used to it. I would clean out the crack and open it
up as much as possible first. Vacuum out the dust before using the
hydraulic is a good plan.
As to the stones, I think I would dig a hole under them as much as
possible, bracing them first, and pour regular concrete under them. After it
cures re mortar the joints.
Sno-Coat?? I thought that was a roof coating. Are there fish in this
pond? If not it may be ok. I have used a product called UGL that is
available at large hardware stores. It is fish friendly when cured and they
answer question via email
ugl...@uglproducts.com
It does not take tinting well (it is white) .
hth how
Mike wrote:
> >snip< About thirteen years ago repaired a
> crack that went across the width of the pond and apparently it is now
> leaking once again due to slow settling. Some of the big rocks have
> also pulled away from the pond and thus created leaks that have lowered
> the water level a depth of only sixteen inches or less.
> This weekend is repair time. We are expecting to clean out the crack
> (or cracks) in the bottom of the pond and then use mortar to repair
> them. Basically the same plan for the rocks,
> Mike in Seattle
Tom Clayton
I have done concrete repair for over 30 years.
If it were my job I would I would use epoxy injection
to repair the cracks and Sika self leveling concrete to
reset the stones, then give the pond a good coat of Xypex.
A CJP Ent
>to repair the cracks and Sika self leveling concrete to
>reset the stones, then give the pond a good coat of Xypex.
Hi Tom: I'm new to this board and was happy to find someone who knows about
concrete. What's epoxy injection and what epoxy and where would I find It? I
assume it would work for stone wall damage too?
I have a really big problem. Our pond is about 30 x 40, odd shaped, bentonite
bottom and stone masonry side. We live in Pa and every winter we sustain
damage to the stone walls which are mostly above ground. This year is worse
than usual because we haven't done any repair for several years since we have
fish now and we don't know what to do with them.. We don't want them to die.
They'd be impossible to catch, we tried one year when they found a way to the
pool during the winter.
We thought about a liner but are afraid that the deer which walk into the pond
at night and all winter will ruin it.
Any ideas? Thanks.
Claude.
Cindy McCord
I like hydraulic cement for patching cracking concrete ponds. A buddy
of mine who has been in the business for many years likes to use the
oil-based (also comes latex based) Dry-Lok product that one uses for
sealing concrete pools and basements. I believe it comes in only white
and blue, but could be combined with another paint to obtain gray. The
surfaces must be scrubbed very clean and then allowed to dry well before
applying any of these products.
More expensive but very, very nice for refurbishing older concrete ponds
would be the neoprene rubber paints - coverage is approx. 80 sq. ft. per
gallon and the product is a lot more expensive than Dry Lok but we use
it when the customer does not mind the cost.
Good luck!
Cindy McCord
Tom Clayton
where you are worried about deer, lay down 3 or 4 inches
of concrete reinforced with Fibermesh.
The wall problem you have is probably due to soil heaving.
About the only the only way to stop that is a crushed rock
cushion between the soil and wall, after the wall has been sealed.
When a stone wall isn't properly sealed water gets inside,
then in the winter when the water freezes the stones are
pushed out of place. Relining the walls with gunite after the
drainage problem is taken care of may be another way.
Mike
there and begin the fish round up and cleaning phase of the project.
Hopefully the cracks won't be too bad and will be able to get them fixed
today too if things go well.
I'm curious about some of the sealers mentioned and I guess we'll have a
few days to research the different sealing products while the mud
cures. I'm pretty sure I had read on here that the Sno-Coat roof
coating stuff was fish safe and had some stretchy elastic properties
that might delay the effects of cracks reopening in the concrete. If
anyone has more knowledge of this stuff, good or bad, I'd like to hear
what you know.
Thanks again for all the help.
Mike in Seattle
