Sun in a landscape photo?
mlin...@cc.helsinki.fi
disturbing flare?
Mikko.L...@Helsinki.fi
William Tyler
>How can I include the sun to my picture without
>disturbing flare?
It's almost impossible to avoid some flare with the sun in your field
of view. Things you can do to minimize it mostly involve the sources
of flare - i.e. lens surfaces. Each surface in your lens will generate
some flare, so you should avoid zoom lenses (lots of elements = lots
of surfaces), make sure the lens is multicoated, and take any filters off
the front of your lens (more surfaces). I'd recommend a lens hood,
except that with the sun in view, any other light source is pretty
trivial.
Bill
--
Bill Tyler wty...@adobe.com
Glenn Durden
Would it help if the sun was in the direct centre of the frame? That way, I
figure that any reflections of lens surfaces will at least mostly be directly
forward/backward, and may end up being where the image of the sun is anyway.
This may help the original poster... (a bit).
G. Hugh Song
|>
|> It's almost impossible to avoid some flare with the sun in your field
|> of view. Things you can do to minimize it mostly involve the sources
|> of flare - i.e. lens surfaces. Each surface in your lens will generate
|> some flare, so you should avoid zoom lenses (lots of elements = lots
|> of surfaces), make sure the lens is multicoated, and take any filters off
|> the front of your lens (more surfaces). I'd recommend a lens hood,
|> except that with the sun in view, any other light source is pretty
|> trivial.
|> Bill Tyler wty...@adobe.com
I once took a dozen pictures of sunset a couple of weeks ago. My lens
was EBC Fujinon 210mm f/5.6 5-element lens of a tele design. I did not
take off B+W UV filter. I should have done it. I included the sun
pretty much in the center of the photograph, but not exactly at the
center. In the outcome, flair was not severe. Just a little ghost
image which is not in fact very ruinous appeared. (Don't confuse flair
with the iris diffraction. Iris diffraction looks kinda nice.)
Problem was to find the correct exposure. I used my Bogen Star F. With the
dome off, it was over the measuring range. So I put the dome on
(incident mode), then you know, it was twilight. I sorta gave up
with the Bogen. So I used my Leica R3's average metering to find out
the exposure.
What turns out in the end is that I need 3 or 4 stops of overexposure
from the readout of the average metering in order to get the proper color
of the sky and other landscapes. So the lesson of the day was
"Bracket the exposure like crazy."
Hugh