Tripod collar for Nikon 80-200/2.8D
Surendra Ranganath
I heard that a tripod mount collar for this lens was available from a
company in the US (Indiana?). Could someone who has this please tell me
if this works satisfactorily. If so, I would also appreciate knowing the
price, and the address/telephone number of the company.
Thanks.
Surendra Ranganath
Internet: el...@leonis.nus.sg
Steve Casner
> company in the US (Indiana?). Could someone who has this please tell me
> if this works satisfactorily. If so, I would also appreciate knowing the
> price, and the address/telephone number of the company.
I'm hearing that this mount should hit the stores in about a month.
A rumored price is $180. It is manufactured in Angola, Indiana by
a guy whose name I can't remember but is mentioned in Galen Rowell's
newest book.
Casner
valentin.m.hossu
I just found the advertisment on page 82 of May 1994
Outdoor Photographer:
KIRK Enterprises
4370 E. US Hwy. 20
Angola, IN 46703
orders only 1-800-626-5074
information 1-219-665-3670
They also advertise that after April 10 they have a
free color catalog.
Hope this helps
Val
Johnny Lau EEE
: > I heard that a tripod mount collar for this lens was available from a
Are you kidding? $180 for a collar?!?!
Johnny Lau :-)
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Matt Nelson
> In reply to those persons looking for the tripod mount for a Nikon
>80-200/2.8 lense, contact:
> Mike Kirk
> Kirk Enterprises
> 4370 E. U.S. Hwy. 20
> Angola, IN 46703
> 1-219-665-36706- Voice or Fax
> Price - $140
> There is also a new mount being marketed by a Canadian firm
>and sells for $225.00 U.S. or $C299.00. Contact:
> Photographica
> 45-1548 Richmond St. N.
> London, Ontario N6G 4W7
> Canada
> 519-858-0443 - Voice
> 519-858-0449 - Fax
I just saw an ad in the back of the March Shutterbug (p.214) for a tripod
adapter from someplace called F&L Photo Mfg in Savannah, GA. It looks
like a big ring which attaches to the focus ring *only*; it is a 'ring
within a ring' desing i.e. it consists of two concentric rings - the inner
one clamps to the lens, the other clamps to the tripod, and the two are free
to move with respect to each other. So you are clamping the focus ring
to the tripod but are still able to move it freely. Advantages: even
with vertical shots, the weight is over the tripod head; the bracket stays
with the lens, so changing lenses is quick and easy.
Anybody know anything about this gadget?
price: US$169.95 (list)
F & L Photo Mfg.
31 E Welwood Drive, Savannah, GA 31419
(912) 925-4675
(407) 628-9909 (fax)
-matt
Ronald R Panetta
To date, 2 manufacturers of collars have been mentioned. Kirk and the Canadian
outfit (don't remember the name). The Feb 1994 issue of "shutterbug" has an
add for a 3rd on page 210. Thisone seems to have a collar that "grabs" the
zoom collar and grabs onto it. Can't tell from the picture if that's the only
connection point.
Before continuing with my own comments on the subject, let me get the details
of this 3rd outfit out of the way.
$149.95 (includes S&H)
F & L PHOTO
31 East Welwood Drive
Savannah, GA 31419
When I first purchased my 80-200, I found the lack of a tripod mount to be a
serious problem (as many of you had). I designed my own solution to the problem
long before seeing the ad for the Kirk design. I've since been amazed at the number
of manufacturers out there selling such beasts and the prices of them.
My solution, like the Kirk version (or I think the Kirk version has) has the problem that lens changes are inconvenient since the collar attaches to both the lens and
the body. Think the Canadian design gets around that problem but it's too expensive.
Don't know if I want my camera/lens supported by the zoom barrel like the F&L version
does.
Anyway, here are the basics of my design, recognizing the shortcomings of the
inconvenient len change operation. BTW, the body is an N90 in my case and some
of the dimensions are probably N90 specific.
1) Build a base out of 2.5" x 1/4" aluminum stock. Think it's like 9.5" long.
2) At the rear of attach a short length of 2.5" X 1/2" aluminum stock as a riser
for the body. I attached it by drilling the 1/4" plate with clearance &
countersunk holes for some aluminum machine screws and threaded the 1/2" plate
to receive the screws.
3) Drill and thread the rear of the plate with 1/4 - 20. Remove the top most
threads by drilling them out down to a depth of about 3/8".
4) For mounting screw, take a large diameter knob from some electronics equipment
that's designed for a 1/4" shaft. Take a 1/4" carriage bolt and turn down the
unthreaded section for a bit to clear the threads in the aluminum. Then cut it
to length so you've got something like:
1/4" diam unthreaded ... reduced diam unthreaded ... 1/4" threaded
5) Take a piece of 1/2" thick plexiglass thats about 3" wide and 6 to 8 inches long.
In the center drill a 1/4" pivot hole and then cut a circle on a band saw such
that the diameter of the remaining hole is the lens diameter plus about 1/16"
(the 1/16" is for some cork padding).
6) Once you've got this piece of plexiglass with a hole in it, but it in half
cutting it in the short dimension (i.e. you've got something that's 3" by
whatever). Throw one half away or give it to a friend that has the same lens.
It's easier to cut the radius by cutting the circle. Besides, I have a friend
with the same lens.
7) Now things get tricky becuase I don't remember the exact measurement. You want
to notch the bottom of the plexiglass so that it overhangs the front of the
aluminum base (i.e. you want to remove a 1/4" high section that's 2 1/2" wide
from bottom of the plexiglass and you'll have a 1/4" ear that overlaps the
aluminum plate on both sides.
Note:
You'll have to ensure to cut the plexiglass to length before removing the material
for the notch. You'll be adding 1/16" cork to the adapter under the body and you'll
also be adding 1/16" of cork on the radiused plexiglass surface.
8) Drill a small clearance diameter hole in the front of the aluminum bracket 1/4" back
from the 2.5" edge. Drill and tap a matching hole in the plexiglass and use a
knurled knob to secure the two (think I used a 3/16" diameter machine screw).
9) Cut and contact cement 1/16" cork material to the plexiglass radiused surface and
the top of the 1/2" aluminum plate. You can get it as gasket material in a hardware
store (plumbing department) or at an auto parts store.
10)Take some sticky back velcro and mount it to the sides of the plexiglass (I
attached the hook side to the plexiglass). Take some non-sticky back velcro
and use it to secure the front of the lens in the cradle formed by the cork lined
radius in the plexiglass.
11)Find the balance point and drill/tap a 1/4-20 hole.
12)Spray paint aluminum surfaces with clear paint or if you're into black bodies,
black krinkle finish paint.
Did anybody follow that?? Hope I got it right.
Ron Panetta
Martin Marietta Corporation
pan...@elab.dnet.ge.com
Ronald R Panetta
Looked at my home made support last night and want to make some corrections to
some of the dimensions.
Aluminum base plate is 2-1/2" X 8 1/2" X 1/4"
Aluminum riser plate for body is 2-1/2" X 1-1/4" X 1/2"
Plexiglass is 3-9/16" wide with ears of 9/16" on each side of the 2-1/2" wide
aluminum.
Hole for body attachment is 7/8" forward from rear of assembly and not centered.
Built 2 of them for about $20 and gave one to a friend. Lots cheaper than any of
the commercial versions.
Have this in a CAD package on my PC. Could make HPGL file (1/2 scale) available
via e-mail or via the news group if there is interest.
Ron Panetta
pan...@elab.dnet.ge.com
Reed Wilson
There's a brief write-up of this accessory tripod collar in the
latest Pop Photo (April? the one with the lion on the front). It
shows a photo of the device and has information on purchasing the
unit direct from the manufacturer.
Regards,
Reed
--
Reed C. Wilson Wegener Communications Inc. Duluth GA
reed%wcien...@mathcs.emory.edu or emory!wcieng!reed