painting on B/W photos.
DolbyNR
does anyone know what is this process called and what is required to do this
process
e.g. types of paints, technique, name of technique so that I can look up in
the library and I believe that the paper is also a special type. what kind
of paper is that?
--
Agape
Andy Wee
http://web.singnet.com.sg/~andyhp
Alan Tutt
pencils seems to be the most common, although your idea of using paints
is in no way a "lesser" technique.
In art, all methods are open to experimentation. If you think you want
to try it, do it. Use the B/W print as a starting point and do anything
to it you can imagine. If you don't like the results, try something
else. All of the accepted methods of art today (paints, pencils, inks,
embossing, whatever) were at one time untried until someone decided to
see what would happen if. Try paints, try pencils, try mud if you think
you might like the results.
Take a look through your library. If they have books on 'handcoloring'
or other photo art techniques, you will get some ideas on what others
have done before you. My library has a few, although it is limited. I
find more info in the bookstores. If you are serious about pursuing
photo art, a $20 book should not be out of reach. Just remember that
what others have done is not the limit of what you can do.
-Alan Tutt
Godfrey DiGiorgi
dealer for advice.
Godfrey
byard
DolbyNR <and...@singnet.com.sg> wrote in article
<84hpjv$bmp$1...@violet.singnet.com.sg>...
Karen Simmons
>
> I have come to know that it is possibly to apply some color on
> b/w photos. does anyone know what is this process called and
> what is required to do this process
Hand-tinting, hand-coloring, or hand-painting of black & white images is
not a new technique. It's how you got "color" portraits and photographs
before the advent of color film.
Most photographers I know use a combination of Marshall's oils and or
Marshall's or Beryl Prismacolor pencils to color their black & white
prints. There are some new pens out on the market called "SpotPens",
but I really don't recommend them for the simple reason that they
require wetting the emulsion of the print (repeatedly) to get the color
to absorb. My personal favorite is Marshall's oils (transparent oils)
on a matte fiber print - the colors absorb really well and they're very
subtle (although more layers of oil will make bolder colors).
There are several books available - Marshall's puts out one - so check
on amazon.com or your local bookstore or library.
You can color a photograph with pretty much anything: regular artists
paints, crayons, markers, etc., but keep in mind that some materials may
be damaging to the print - not necessarily immediately but months or
years down the road. Experiment and play all you want, but if you're
coloring something that you want to last, make sure that the materials
you're using are photo safe.
--
----------------------------
Karen Simmons, Photographer
Atlanta, Georgia
----------------------------
Arlo T. Dog
1-56010-299-3. Available from Amazon for about $8
Ed K
The Thalia Street Gallery, http://edkrebs.com
Tim Shoppa
>
> DolbyNR wrote:
> >
> > I have come to know that it is possibly to apply some color on
> > b/w photos. does anyone know what is this process called and
> > what is required to do this process
>
> Hand-tinting, hand-coloring, or hand-painting of black & white images is
> not a new technique. It's how you got "color" portraits and photographs
> before the advent of color film.
>
> Most photographers I know use a combination of Marshall's oils and or
> Marshall's or Beryl Prismacolor pencils to color their black & white
> prints. There are some new pens out on the market called "SpotPens",
> but I really don't recommend them for the simple reason that they
> require wetting the emulsion of the print (repeatedly) to get the color
> to absorb. My personal favorite is Marshall's oils (transparent oils)
> on a matte fiber print - the colors absorb really well and they're very
> subtle (although more layers of oil will make bolder colors).
>
> There are several books available - Marshall's puts out one - so check
> on amazon.com or your local bookstore or library.
You don't necessarily need Marshall's oils, though these do form
a good starting set. If you need a specific shade/hue, most oil
paints from an art store will work fine as well. (Generally you
want something a bit on the transluscent side.)
The Marshall sets, while they're a good start, come with these
itsy-bitsy tiny tubes of oil paint. If you start coloring
in 16x20 prints, you'll quickly find that you're using up a good
chunk of each tube per print. If you do much hand-tinting
you'll almost certainly end up visiting an art store to get the
colors you commonly use in larger quantities. I've had very good
luck with Georgian brand "flesh tint" for coloring portraits, and
usually mix this with a bit of Marshall "lipstick red" pencil and
rub down for cheeks and lips.
The B&W print you want to start with should preferably be made on
fiber-based (FB) matte paper. Glossy and RC papers can be made
to work, but I don't recommend starting with them.
The areas you want to tint should be light-toned on the print.
It is possible to add color to the darker areas, but it doesn't
show up as vividly as the same amount of color added to a lighter
area.
Many of the hand-colored prints you'll see have been sepia toned
before coloring. I've done some experimentation with selectively
toning areas, but no success that I want the rest of the world
to see yet :-).
Tim.
Karen Simmons
> You don't necessarily need Marshall's oils, though these do form
> a good starting set. If you need a specific shade/hue, most oil
> paints from an art store will work fine as well. (Generally you
> want something a bit on the transluscent side.)
No, didn't say Marshall's were the only oils, but they are the most
common and time tested for being non-damaging to photographs. Also, if
you buy the kits of oils, you do get small tubes, but I've been
hand-tinting for years and from experience I can tell you that it takes
me a good bit of time to use up a small tube - even with 16x20 and
larger sized prints. It doesn't take much oil to lay down the color -
and it's better to lay down 3 thin layers of color to build depth than
to cake it on in one thick layer that takes forever to dry. I also tend
to thin the colors with extender to get my layers and that also makes
the small tubes last longer. And for those colors that you use a lot
of, you can get larger tubes individually from any photo supplier -
Calumet sells them online.
My biggest concern when I make any alterations to a print is the
longevity of the final product. Of course I'm supplying my prints for
clients, so I want to make sure that 5 years from now they're not going
to have a faded or cracked mess on their hands. So I'm very leary of
recommending anything that I personally haven't used or that I think
might be damaging. I avoid artists oils and watercolors for just that
reason - not that I believe they aren't archival (after all, how old is
the Mona Lisa? *grin*) but because I don't know how they react with
photographic papers.
But again, that's my personal concern based on the fact that i'm
charging for this product and I want to *know* that it will last.
Certainly there's nothing wrong with trying out different media for
personal use and experimentation.
Karen
Skip
specifically designed to use with oils for hand tinting, and has a very
nice surface, tonal quality, and overall appearance.
Skip
Karen Simmons wrote:
>
> DolbyNR wrote:
> >
> > I have come to know that it is possibly to apply some color on
>
> to absorb. My personal favorite is Marshall's oils (transparent oils)
> on a matte fiber print - the colors absorb really well and they're very
> subtle (although more layers of oil will make bolder colors).
>
> There are several books available - Marshall's puts out one - so check
> on amazon.com or your local bookstore or library.
>
> You can color a photograph with pretty much anything: regular artists
> paints, crayons, markers, etc.,
> --
> ----------------------------
> Karen Simmons, Photographer
> Atlanta, Georgia
> ----------------------------
--
Shadowcatcher Imagery
http://members.tripod.com/~shadowcatcherimagery/index.htm
Westfork
Photoshop and a good photo printer.
2 samples:
Westfork
Westfork <jhop...@ewa.net> wrote in message
news:s6qj62...@corp.supernews.com...
> If archival properties are not a concern you might be most happy with
> Photoshop and a good photo printer.
2 examples:
http://personal.centric.net/hopkins/a3.htm
http://personal.centric.net/hopkins/a4.htm
James David Schenken
DolbyNR <and...@singnet.com.sg> wrote in message
news:84hpjv$bmp$1...@violet.singnet.com.sg...
> I have come to know that it is possibly to apply some color on b/w photos.
> does anyone know what is this process called and what is required to do
this
> process
Keith Clark
> If archival properties are not a concern you might be most happy with
> Photoshop and a good photo printer.
>
NOT true, NOT true, NOT true!
With proper technique, digital output will surpass even Cibachrome in
terms of longevity.
The 4 color Epson photo printers will accept archival ink sets that when
used with acid free media will last in excess of 100 years before
noticeable fading occurs.
http://www.wilhelm-research.com/
The archival ink sets have a limited gamut, but with hand colored effects
that shouldn't pose any problems. You will need to create an ICC profile
for your ink/paper combination however. You can create your own with a
variety of software, some as low as $79.
http://www.praxisoft.com/wiziwygpages/features1.html
Also, for about the same cost of a print from a negative, you can also
have a real photographic print output from a Lightjet machine directly
from the digital file (you'll need at least 72 MB for a decent sized
enlargement). Lightjet prints on Fuji Crystal Archive paper surpass what
is possible in a darkroom in terms of tonal range, rival Cibachrome in
terms of brilliance and fine detail, and in fact will outlast Cibachrome.
Keith
Danny Dorfman
Last time I colored my B/W photos I used ... food coloring! You take your B/W
photos after they're dry (it doesn't matter if you print at home, or
commercially), dampen them with a wet cotton ball, and then apply a thin
layer of food coloring. Make sure your color isn't very concentrated, or
things may get ugly. Start with properly dilluted food-coloring and a photo
that isn't critical for you.
Good luck!
Danny
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
cherry blossom
wrote:
>I have come to know that it is possibly to apply some color on b/w photos.
>does anyone know what is this process called and what is required to do this
my teacher told us to start off with food colouring..works great!!!
take the "nojunk" out of address before e-mailing me.
David Grabowski
What do you make of watercolor and or oil color with inkjet prints in
regards to ink running during the painting process ? I have considered
doing this but have wondered if the inks can handle the strokes and
saturation without breaking down, would you need a buffer or
protection coat over the inkjet print or can the watercolors or oils
go directly on?
Regards,
David Grabowski
>
>
>
>
>
Keith Clark
David Grabowski wrote:
>
> What do you make of watercolor and or oil color with inkjet prints in
> regards to ink running during the painting process ? I have considered
> doing this but have wondered if the inks can handle the strokes and
> saturation without breaking down, would you need a buffer or
> protection coat over the inkjet print or can the watercolors or oils
> go directly on?
>
> Regards,
> David Grabowski
>
If you use Epson media, the inks will not run if you paint over them.
However the acidity of the Epson media makes it less than an ideal choice for
longevity.
Watercolor media will last much longer, but left untreated the inks will run
if they get wet. You would probably want to coat them with one of the sprays
available from The Stock Solution (http://www.inkjetart.com).
God luck! It sounds like a lot of fun.
You might also experiment with the "Deep Paint" program. It does a really good
job of simulating the texture, viscosity and reflectivity of real paint.
Cheers,
Keith