Best of light,
Gordon Cooper
Seattle, WA
Just about any folder with a 4.5 lens will work. Most of the US type cameras
such as Kodak take 620 film. Getting this film is hard and expensive. Most
German cameras are 120, so film is not a problem.
The biggest problem with folders is that the shutters usually have given out.
Make sure all the shutter speeds are working. Repair is expensive. Your best
bet is camera shows. You should be able to buy a good camera for $50 to $100.
Larry
>
>Just about any folder with a 4.5 lens will work. Most of the US type cameras
>such as Kodak take 620 film. Getting this film is hard and expensive. Most
>German cameras are 120, so film is not a problem.
Actually 6x9's have closer to 10,5cm lenses. The 4,5's are usually 35mm
folders. Both my Agfa Billy Record (6x9) and my Zeiss-Icon Nettar use 120 film.
Jerry in Houston'
Jerry Lewis
League City, TX., USA
From what I've found out. This camera was probably made in the 50's. There
were a lot of the 6X9 folders made back then. The Ansco Viking/Agfa Billy
Record are another common model that can be had for around $50, give or take
$15.
When looking into one of these cameras, always be sure you know how fast the
lens is and what type of shutter is on it. These type of cameras were sold
with varying max aperatures (4.5 to 8.8) and shutter speed selections (3 to
9 speeds). Most any folder from the 50's had a tripod socket, flash sync,
and cable release socket. The Franka Rolfixs, Agfa Records, and Ansco
Vikings all used 120 film. Most of the Kodak folders of the time used 620
film. The Ikonta folders are also good cameras, but their popularity among
collectors makes them a bit pricey for the beginner photographer.
The most common Kodak folder then was the Vigilant. While a well built
camera, pay attention to the aperature and shutter of whatever model you're
considering. In case you don't know, 620 film is merely 120 film on a
slimmer spool. If you end up with a 620 camera, you can respool 120 film or
order film from Film for Classics or B&H Photo. Both sell film on 620
spools. Just remember to hoard all the spools you can.
As far as filters are concerned, none of the models above were designed to
accomodate them. Maybe someone knows a better mothod of using a filter with
them other than holding it in front of the lens.
Hope this helps.
Rad
Erynn/Lorax wrote in message <6k1l4j$3...@q.seanet.com>...
--
steve's photography & Z car stuff @ http://www.mindspring.com/~skoontz
sko...@mindspring.com
Folders tend to be made in 3 qualities: cheapo lens and shutter, mediocre
lens and shutter and great lens, shutter and rangefinder. The last is the
hardest to find. The mid range is plentiful, but full of 3 element lenses.
John
Erynn/Lorax wrote in message <6k1l4j$3...@q.seanet.com>...
>Having spent a year with my Rolleicord, I find myself wanting to try a 6x9
>folder. Could I have a few recommendations for one that won't cost a
fortune
>but still deliver good results? I'd prefer one I can mount filters on, if
>that's possible.
>
>As far as filters are concerned, none of the models above were designed to
>accomodate them. Maybe someone knows a better mothod of using a filter with
>them other than holding it in front of the lens.
I haven't gotten around to taking a picture of it yet for my web
page, but I recently modified a Cokin Universal mount to work on
my Moscow 5 6x9 folder. The Cokin Universal uses three thumb
screws with plastic tips to clamp onto the outside of just about
any lens barrel, whether it's threaded, smooth, knurled, etc.
My modifications were mostly done with a hot knife, removing
plastic on the adaptor that got in the way of the folding and
rangefinder mechanisms on my camera -- the designers of the
adaptor must have expected more clearance around the lens than
you get on a folder.
I was torn between using the Cokin adaptor and getting a proper
slip-on to threaded filter adaptor, but decided in favor of the
Cokin since it works with all the Cokin P filters I already own
for my other cameras.
--
Jo...@WolfeNet.com is Joshua Putnam / P.O. Box 13220 / Burton, WA 98013
"My other bike is a car."
http://www.wolfenet.com/~josh/
Sorry for the misunderstanding, and yes it does have the Schneider-Krueznach
4.5/10,5 cm Radionar.
Jerry
I use a Super Ikonta B 6x6 folder with a Zeiss Tessar lens. The camera
belonged to my grandfather, and in with his camera gear were a vaiety of sizes
of filter holders that slid over the front of the lens and were held in place
by a kind of spring action. The adapters come in series (V, VI, VII, etc.) and
you can still get filters that fit. I have neve seen these in a store, but you
may want to
look in a used equipment bin for these adapters.
This applies to the 6 x 6 format and to some extent- possibly a large
extent- to the 6 x 9 format 120 folders also. There is a subset of the
mid range that also have quality lenses- call them the upper mid-range
if you like. For example, you can find Zeiss Ikontas with Tessar
lenses, without rangefinders and sometimes with uncoupled
rangefinders, but much cheaper than Super Ikontas. Also Agfa Isolette
III with Solinar lens (that is a Tessar clone) and uncoupled
rangefinder (6x6 format) and here in the UK there are the Ensign
Selfix cameras with the Ross Xpres lens (another excellent lens).
There are many other cameras in this category also. It may be helpful
to have a look at McKeowns to see what cameras were made of this type,
and Ivor Matanle's book "Collecting and using classic cameras" is full
of useul information on the subject, particularly with reference to
which old folders are still likely to be in usable condition today.
Joe B. (Please remove the ".com" from my address for email)
Haven't seen any mention of one of the best: The Mamiya 6 folder. It
came with a variety of lenses, the Zuiko Olympus 75mm f3.5 being a
really good one. I can't speak for the others. The Olympus is apparently
a Tessar knock-off, and mine's in a seikosha 1 - 500 shutter. I bought
mine at an auction for $18, but that was a steal. I doubt you'd normally
get a good one for less than $100, but compare it with the Super Ikonta
and you'll see it's an excellent one to consider. I think the sharpness
is attained largely by virtue of the fact that the film is held very
flat via a slide-in pressure plate. That arrangement was necessary
because focusing is done by moving the film plane rather than the lens
elements. I believe this also makes for a more rigid front standard --
the old Mamiyas seem to be very rigid. Try it, you'll love it.
I have a Franka Rollfix Jr in front of me right now which sort of violates
Steve's quality code. It has a Vario 3-speed shutter (25,75,200) with
unknown (I would assume M) synch. So far it sounds cheap, but it has a
105mm f:4.5 Schneider Radionar coated lens! Cheaper shutter with good
glass!
Personally, I prefer the cheaper shutters as the greatest single cause of
shutter problems is in gummed lubricant in the slow speed gears. As a
result, I actually prefer these simpler and more reliable shutters. I
have a Kodak Tourist with a similar shutter and a coated f:8.8 Anaston
lens (also a Cooke triplet type) which I'd love to death if only I didn't
have to deal with the 620 film mess. The lens is an absolute joy for
sharpness.
I've got a few really nice "top of line" cameras here whose 7 and 9
speed Compurs need expensive work that I feel is beyond my resources
and competence to repair. The cost of repair is several times the
value of the cameras that they're on! Conclusion? To me at least,
avoid the deluxe shutters but look for good glass!
My $.02
Ed Lukacs
Washington, DC
steven T koontz <sko...@mindspring.com> wrote:
: Erynn/Lorax wrote:
:>
:> Having spent a year with my Rolleicord, I find myself wanting to try a 6x9
:> folder. Could I have a few recommendations for one that won't cost a fortune
:> but still deliver good results? I'd prefer one I can mount filters on, if
:> that's possible.
:>
: I've had very good results with the "franka" camera's. They seem very
: well made. One way to determine how good the camera is by seeing how
This IS interesting. I thought the Radionar was a three element design
that is not quite in the league of Tessar type lenses, which are what
is usually meant by "quality lenses" in this context. But I would be
curious to know what you can do with it- sometimes what people say
about "good" lenses is what they read somewhere, not what they
actually know. Commonly heard advice is to stick to the Tessar types
if quality is what you're after. If that is wrong, I want to know
about it...