Is there any brighter screen replacement for the Bronica S2A,
preferably with split image ?. Either that, or can a brighter screen
from a later Bronica or other manufacturer's camera be adapted to fit
?.
Thanks,
Chris
an accu-matte screen on an s2a project example:
http://home.kscable.com/bakerphotograph/cameras.htm
an SQAI screen on bronica S2A:
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html#rayscreen
and Sam Sherman's tips on remounting SQ bright screen to S2A at:
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html#fixscrn
from http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html
From Bronica Digest:
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000
From: Chris Cardinal two...@snet.net
Subject: Intenscreen for S2
Hello all. This may or may not be common knowledge, so I thought I'd pass
it along to the group. I recently contacted Beattie
regarding an Intenscreen for my S2a. While they no longer list it on their
web site (www.intenscreen.com) or in their product
literature, they are more than happy to make one for you with or without
grid lines. I'm not sure of pricing, but you can contact
the sales rep at "John Taddeo" john....@reflexite.com
Chris :^)
two...@snet.net
=====
see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronnotes.html#oldeyes
other options see mf/vision.html
hope this helps bobm
--
* Robert Monaghan POB752182 Southern Methodist University, Dallas Tx 75275 *
* Third Party 35mm Lenses: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/third/index.html *
* Medium Format Cameras: http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/index.html *
I seem to recall that a company advertises brighter screens for S2As in
AP. I think they were fairly expensive (£175 or somerthing?) and I don't
think they are split image, but it may be worth a look.
Be careful with Bronica S2A and focusing screens.
First of all, most have deteriorated finder foam which must be replaced or you
will get out of focus images.
See my articles on this on Bob Monghan's Bronica Mega Site-
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronica.html
Then if you should replace the screen be careful it is in perfect focus
alignment as well as replacing the finder foam.
The new screen must be pressed down all the way to the
proper point which gives exact focus.
- Sam Sherman
Thanks for the advice. Have done the finder foam and also that for the
back, since the original foam had disintegrated to the point where it
was coming adrift as bits of black glue like stuff all over the inside
of the camera and back.
Not quite sure if I have the adjustment spot on though, as am still
putting a test roll through. Guess the best way would be to have a
piece of ground glass on the film plane, adjust for critical focus,
then adjust the finder screen height for the same. Haven't got a piece
of ground glass to try this yet but have done an initial stab by
adjusted the height to give best focus at infinity, then focused at a
known shorter distance (~6ft) to equate with the scale on the lens. Am
going to set up 3 or more newspaper pages at known distances at maybe
1" intervals or less distance wise, then focus on the middle page as
follows:
---------- P1
---------- P2 <- focus on this page
---------- P3
Distance = 3 feet ?
----Camera, standard 75mm lens----
Do you think this would be a good way of checking, or is there a
"correct" method of doing this that a Bronica tech would have used
originally to do this job ?. The other point is that the original
finder screen is in two parts, a ground glass screen and under that,
what looks like a fresnel lens. Have just bought the S2A repair
microfiche via Ebay but am still waiting for a fiche reader, so don't
know which way up the fresnel lens should be fitted. Is this critical
(as I suspect) as to which side is up, or doesn't it matter ?. Reason
for asking is that by the state of the screws holding the screen in,
it looks like someone has had a go at this before and the camera did
arrive with incorrect focus.
Apart from that though, beautifully engineered piece of kit as are the
lenses and should last forever in my amateur hands...
Chris
Many thanks for the pointers. Have in fact spent quite a bit of time
at your excellent site, but thought this would be the best way to get
a quick answer. The Beattie screens seem very expensive, so will
probably try to find an SQ or SQAI screen and modify to fit.
The S2A is the first real foray into MF here. Bought a Yashica A last
year at a local auction for 5 ukp and was amazed at how sharp the
prints looked from such an old camera. Guess this planted the seed of
an idea and after several months of research, eventually resulted in
the S2A purchase. Use all mechanical 35mm stuff and really wanted a
similar beast in MF. Liked the idea of an instant return mirror,
Nikkor lenses and the S2A is about as late as you can get in Bronica
while still being all mechanical and with focal plane shutter. Prices
are also quite reasonable if you are trying to work within a limited
budget and there always seem to be accessories and lenses on Ebay, so
took the plunge. As for problems, one would expect bad foam with any
camera of this age. The only other problem has been with the back
cover, which has a tab which only just engages with the new foam
(maybe too thick ?) and results in no film advance stop if out of
adjustment. Wound on half a reel of film before realising something
was amiss here. This is now fixed though and have recently found a
like new 5X chimney finder on Ebay, so it looks like i'm being hooked
;-).
Last week carried it + lenses + accessories + tripod + 35mm kit all
the way round Blenheim Palace lake (Oxfordshire) trying to get some
good shots. Heavy, unwieldy and not so convenient to use as an SLR,
but does force you to think more about the process and to make every
shot count. MF is photography at a much more leasurely pace...
Chris
see Tomosy Camera Repair books for info on homemade collimator using half
a binocular (eyepiece..) and rangefinder half-silvered mirror etc. Very
useful for lens and body testing etc. and ensuring screen is right and so
on...
as Sam Sherman noted, he has a lot of articles on screen and mirror foam
related issues, see links at http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronica.html
I also see the slower pace of medium format as a plus, and suspect you
will be pleased by the shots back from your tour of Blenheim palace lake
;-) We have only one natural lake (on La.-Tx border) in the state of
Texas, and no real palaces, so you have a lot better scenery to shoot ;-)
grins bobm
Chris,
This is all easier than it sounds - don't make it difficult for yourself.
Got to a camera repair shop and get a 6x6cm piece of groundglass. Epoxy a small
loupe to the shiny side.
Place the camera on a tripod - use a tele lens if you have one or the normal
lens, then-
1- Remove the back set camera to B - use locking cable release to hold shutter
open.
2- Replace back - have lens set wide open - remove slide and insert-
put groundglass on the film rails-
3- Focus on an infinity target - lens should be set to infinity if it is okay
and see that it is sharp on the groundglass.
4- Now release the cable release and the mirror returns and adjust the finder
groundglass until it is sharp. If you have the original groundglass/fresnel
unit - note:
The fresnel goes in first on the bottom with the shiny side down - circle side
up. The groundglass goes on top of it with the shiny side up.
This is easier to do than write about - you should get it right quickly.
Good luck.
- Sam Sherman
Had read that the early Bronica prisms were a bit dim and in any case, a
chimney finder is far less expensive (mine was $60 BTW, from Ebay) and
seems more natural for tripod work.
>
> I also see the slower pace of medium format as a plus, and suspect you
> will be pleased by the shots back from your tour of Blenheim palace lake
> ;-) We have only one natural lake (on La.-Tx border) in the state of
> Texas, and no real palaces, so you have a lot better scenery to shoot ;-)
Maybe you don't have palaces, but still remember all those knockout shots
of the Grand Canyon and other places in National Geographic mag from years
ago. We may have some good scenery in the UK, but nothing like the range of
subject matter you have. 1977 was the last time I was in the states and
shot over 25 rolls of Kodachrome in 3 months using a Rollei 35. Very happy
memories and the slides still look perfect...
Chris
Thanks again for the info, especially the stuff about screen orientation.
Chris