Super Ikonta 533/16 film advance / shutter question
Laurence Wilmer
Super Ikonta 533/16, but I've forgotten how to use it! Used to take great
shots with it in the past, but that was a long time ago!
Next to the film advance knob (on the top on the camera) there is a small
silver button, and alongside this there is a red dot showing. The button
looks as though it should slide forwards, but it won't.
If I cock the shutter (lever on top of lens) it won't fire with the normal
shutter release, but will if I operate a small black lever under the lens by
the hinge.
I'm pretty sure that in doing this I am bypassing the double exposure
prevention, and that red dot is telling me I haven't loaded the film and set
the film counter properly.
Anyone (with a long memory) on how it should work please? And is this camera
worth persisting with or spending money on if it turns out to have a fault?
(It has 80mm 2.8 Tessar, and Compur Rapid 1-400th, light meter seems to work
OK, couple range finder in a yellow spot through rather foggy viewfinder.)
Thanks,
--
Laurence Wilmer
l.d.w...@NOJUNKMAILblueyonder.co.uk
Stephe
> If I cock the shutter (lever on top of lens) it won't fire with the normal
> shutter release, but will if I operate a small black lever under the lens
> by the hinge.
> I'm pretty sure that in doing this I am bypassing the double exposure
> prevention, and that red dot is telling me I haven't loaded the film and
> set the film counter properly.
Exactly, did you try turning the film advance knob? You shouldn't have to
have film in it to work. I've also had the double exposure mechanism stick
and had to remove the top plate and lubricate this lever to get things
going. It's not rosket science and with a small screwdriver and some time
you should be able to fix it and clean out the finder while you're in there!
>
> Anyone (with a long memory) on how it should work please? And is this
> camera worth persisting with or spending money on if it turns out to have
> a fault?
Very much so. I have a few of these with the 75mm f3.5 tessar and they are
VERY good user cameras. I don't think the f2.8 is quite as sharp but still
is a good lens. From f8-f16 they work really well.
--
stephe
Laurence Wilmer
"Stephe" <ms_s...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:a9v3a5$6ag3t$1...@ID-52908.news.dfncis.de...
> Laurence Wilmer wrote:
>
>
> > If I cock the shutter (lever on top of lens) it won't fire with the
normal
> > shutter release, but will if I operate a small black lever under the
lens
> > by the hinge.
> > I'm pretty sure that in doing this I am bypassing the double exposure
> > prevention, and that red dot is telling me I haven't loaded the film and
> > set the film counter properly.
>
> Exactly, did you try turning the film advance knob?
Yes - it's on 1 and it stays on 1 no matter what I do. Should it reset when
I open the back, or, the film advance knob feels as though it wants to lift
or push or sommat - or was that my old Zeiss Ikoflex? I don't want to use
too much force unless I am certain of what I am supposed to be doing!
Thanks for response,
--
Laurence Wilmer
l.d.w...@NOJUNKMAILblueyonder.co.uk
Stephe
>
> "Stephe" <ms_s...@excite.com> wrote in message
> news:a9v3a5$6ag3t$1...@ID-52908.news.dfncis.de...
>> Laurence Wilmer wrote:
>>
>>
>> > If I cock the shutter (lever on top of lens) it won't fire with the
> normal
>> > shutter release, but will if I operate a small black lever under the
> lens
>> > by the hinge.
>> > I'm pretty sure that in doing this I am bypassing the double exposure
>> > prevention, and that red dot is telling me I haven't loaded the film
>> > and set the film counter properly.
>>
>> Exactly, did you try turning the film advance knob?
>
> Yes - it's on 1 and it stays on 1 no matter what I do.
And the knob won't turn? If the window is red and the knob won't turn nor
will the shutter button depress, sounds like something is jammed.
> Should it reset
> when I open the back, or, the film advance knob feels as though it wants
> to lift or push or sommat - or was that my old Zeiss Ikoflex?
Mine resets when the back is opened, but it is a later version. Look at the
upper portion of the groove that the back seals into and see if there is a
shiny "lever" in the groove that would tell the camera the back has been
opened. Also the knob doesn't lift on any of my zeiss folders, the lower
part is spring loaded to let you remove the spools.
> I don't want
> to use too much force unless I am certain of what I am supposed to be
> doing!
Don't use too much force even if you do!! :-) I'm thinking you need to
reset the counter and if it will, things should start working.
--
stephe
Laurence Wilmer
Right, got it, thanks. The advance knob was only lifting because it wanted
tightening - the central screw was loose. Now works just fine
Now, after no.12 there is a red circle in the counter window and the red dot
disappears from alongside the small knob alongside the film advance. At that
point this knob will slide sideways and that puts the red dot back in the
window.
I am guessing that you load the new film, wind on perhaps until an arrow is
seen in the red window in the back, then close the back window, slide the
small knob and wind on to no.1 in the counter window.
Does that sound right?
If so then, hey! I have a fully functioning Super Ikonta! Must give it a
try - will I able to buy 120 film and have it processed? (My bathroom
darkroom days are long over). Suppose the lens will not be colour corrected,
so BW only - and film DIN ratings were doubled in the 1970s, weren't they?
So many questions!
Stephe
> I am guessing that you load the new film, wind on perhaps until an arrow
> is seen in the red window in the back, then close the back window, slide
> the small knob and wind on to no.1 in the counter window.
> Does that sound right?
Mine has marks on the film gate that you like up the "line" on the film
with, then close the back and wind to frame one. I've never used the red
window on the models with a frame counter.
> If so then, hey! I have a fully functioning Super Ikonta! Must give it a
> try - will I able to buy 120 film and have it processed?
No problem at all. Any "pro" lab can do it as it's the same film any
medformat camera uses.
>Suppose the lens will not be colour
> corrected,
Nope, color film works just fine. The tessar lens is highly color corrected
and if it wasn't, modern B&W film wouldn't work well either as it
pancromatic. To have a lens that isn't color corrected you'd need to go
back to the turn of the century. Try something like fuji 800asa NPZ using
f16 at 1/250-1/300 in daylight. Should come out fine. Actually if you
haven't ever shot medformat you're in for a shock :-)
>so BW only - and film DIN ratings were doubled in the 1970s,
> weren't they?
>
Wouldn't matter, it doesn't have a meter.. And many people believe the film
speed really didn't change, just the metering got better so they could
remove some of the "fudge factor" that they had built in. I still shoot 1
stop over with print film.
--
stephe
Vincent Becker
"Stephe" <ms_s...@excite.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
a9v3a5$6ag3t$1...@ID-52908.news.dfncis.de...
>
> I've also had the double exposure mechanism stick
> and had to remove the top plate and lubricate this lever to get things
> going.
Is the top plate difficult to remove (and put back ;-)? Mine deserves a
viewfinder clean-up, but I'm afraid to proceed as I wouldn't damage the
camera.
--
Regards,
From France,
Vincent Becker
(remove PASDEPUB from address to answer by mail)
Vincent Becker
"Laurence Wilmer" <l.d.w...@NOJUNKMAILblueyonder.co.uk> a écrit dans
le message de news: 2_Dw8.4265$JB1.34...@news-text.cableinet.net...
> And is this camera
> worth persisting with or spending money on if it turns out to have a
fault?
> (It has 80mm 2.8 Tessar, and Compur Rapid 1-400th, light meter seems
to work
> OK, couple range finder in a yellow spot through rather foggy
viewfinder.)
As you have luckily resolved your film advance problem, the answer to
your second question is: yes, this is an excellent camera. It takes
astounding pictures and is very pleasant to use. It is worth several
hundred dollars. You're a lucky man ;-)
Laurence Wilmer
There are 2 white dots on the film gate, so I guess line arrows up with
those then set the counter wind on to one.
I used to use a Zeiss Ikoflex and vie with my uncle's M3 Leicas - I always
said he cheated using Hyfin developer, but our results were comparable.
Does have a meter - an uncoupled selenium cell that seems to work OK.
The only other thing I can't work out is which model it is - it matches the
photos of the BX at http://www.cameraquest.com/zikontb.htm exactly, except
that the highest shutter speed is 1/400 not 1/500, and the shutter is marked
Compur Rapid not Synchro Compur. (Lens is Zeiss-Opton Tessar). Yet is has a
flash synch socket. Wondering if the flash synch may be bulb only, and later
models were bulb and electronic?
Thanks for all your help.
--
Laurence Wilmer
l.d.w...@NOJUNKMAILblueyonder.co.uk
Stephe
>
>
> There are 2 white dots on the film gate, so I guess line arrows up with
> those then set the counter wind on to one.
You got it. I've found I need to go slightly past these dots to get good
film spacing. If you have "kissing frames" that might help you as well.
These were designed when film was thicker and modern films don't move the
same amount of film due to the fact the spool will be smaller in diameter
due to the film being thinner. If you add a little more film to the spool
before you close the back (Or add a piece of paper?), it helps.
> The only other thing I can't work out is which model it is - it matches
> the photos of the BX at http://www.cameraquest.com/zikontb.htm exactly,
> except that the highest shutter speed is 1/400 not 1/500, and the shutter
> is marked Compur Rapid not Synchro Compur. (Lens is Zeiss-Opton Tessar).
> Yet is has a flash synch socket. Wondering if the flash synch may be bulb
> only, and later models were bulb and electronic?
>
Probably has x synch not the more advanced MX. Try an electronic flash with
the back open and see if it syncs at all speeds, it probably does (all my
old leaf shutters do). I've found most of these are x (electronic) synched
instead of bulb even though bulb's were more comon at the time. Seems it
was less complex to do X synch and only the higher end shutter had the MX
synch. The x snyched shutters used with a bulb only worked well with flash
at the lower speeds, the reason m synch was designed.
I have a rollei beta 4 flash which works well with these older cameras. The
beta 5 is a nice unit as well, just a little large for a camera this
compact.
--
stephe
Stephe
>
> "Stephe" <ms_s...@excite.com> a écrit dans le message de news:
> a9v3a5$6ag3t$1...@ID-52908.news.dfncis.de...
>>
>> I've also had the double exposure mechanism stick
>> and had to remove the top plate and lubricate this lever to get things
>> going.
>
> Is the top plate difficult to remove (and put back ;-)? Mine deserves a
> viewfinder clean-up, but I'm afraid to proceed as I wouldn't damage the
> camera.
>
Mine was fairly simple to remove. Took off the knobs, removed the screws
under the knobs and the top plate came right off. I did this to clean the
finder and it made it SOOOO much nicer!!! Mine is a later version III that
has two windows on the top plate, view window and rangefinder are the same
window and no popup window out at the lens.
--
stephe
Jean-Marc Becker
> Mine was fairly simple to remove. Took off the knobs, removed the
screws
> under the knobs and the top plate came right off. I did this to clean
the
> finder and it made it SOOOO much nicer!!! Mine is a later version III
that
> has two windows on the top plate, view window and rangefinder are the
same
> window and no popup window out at the lens.
> --
I think that screwdrivers will soon be at work... :-))
JMB