Portrait Lighting Question (please read)

[Adam Attarian]

Hey!

I need some help on lighting some outdoor portraits. I use to know, but
then I didn't take any for a while, so I forgot.

Now I remember about metering the backlight, and then giving about 1/2
or a stop more to keep the backlight hot. I will be using an automatic
flash, so I pick an f stop, say f/8, and then meter, and then give extra.

Should I meter the model's face w/ an incident?

I'm not sure at all.

Thanks,

Adam Attarian

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[Jim Williams]

>I need some help on lighting some outdoor portraits. I use to know, but
>then I didn't take any for a while, so I forgot.
>
>Now I remember about metering the backlight, and then giving about 1/2
>or a stop more to keep the backlight hot. I will be using an automatic
>flash, so I pick an f stop, say f/8, and then meter, and then give extra.
>
>Should I meter the model's face w/ an incident?
>
>I'm not sure at all.
>

If you meter the model's face with an incident meter (aimed back at the
camera) you won't be including the backlight at all, and you won't have any
control of the balance between the ambient light and flash.

Suggestion (crude but workable): Put your incident meter on the BACK of the
model's head and get a reading on the backlit side. Then take a reading on
the front (camera) side and see how big a difference there is.

Set your flash to require 1/2 to 1 stop smaller than the front-side meter
reading (e.g., if the meter indicates correct exposure for the face is f/8,
set your flash for f/56 or f/5.6-and-a-half.) That will make the flash fill
in the shadows rather than being the main illumination source.

Compare the main exposure to your reading of the backlight to see how "hot"
the backlight will be. If the backlight reading is within about a stop of
your main reading (e.g. if the face reads f/8 and the backlight reads no
more than f/11) your backlighting should be fairly sedate. If the backlight
is much brighter (reads f/11, f/16 or higher) you either have to accept
burned-out areas in the backlit part, or do something to reduce the
contrast between backlight and frontlight (e.g. bounce some of the light
back into the subject's face with a reflector.)

[AL52818]

Hi Adam:

I will tell you what I do. First, you want
a background that is going to be no darker than 1 1/2 stops less than your
subject
( you meter both ). If the background does not meet this requirement, you have
three choices: Either get some light onto the background with an off camera
strobe, or, move your subject into a more shaded position, or if neither of
these are possible, move your subject so that they have a different background
behind them. Then, the rest is simply a matter of choice. I personally like to
have my backgrounds one full stop darker than my subject, because then the eyes
are naturally drawn to the subject, and the affects of your lighting can be
more easily seen. Other photographers prefer to match the background with the
subject, and still others like to let the background get hot.
After you have figured out which style you like, you simply meter the
background, setup your shutter and f stop according to what you just metered (
either to give a perfect exposure to your background, or let it go dark, or let
it go light ). Then, depending on the light on your subject and it's quality (
shadows, etc. ), you may opt to add strobe to the same setting as is on your
lens. Sounds more difficult than it really is. Good luck !!

AL

[Robert P Pielli]

Why don,t you just run some test rolls and find out for yourself.
Experience is the best teacher.

Adam Attarian <ad...@no.spam.ipass.net> wrote in message
news:3773FD7A...@no.spam.ipass.net...
> Hey!

>
> I need some help on lighting some outdoor portraits. I use to know, but
> then I didn't take any for a while, so I forgot.
>
> Now I remember about metering the backlight, and then giving about 1/2
> or a stop more to keep the backlight hot. I will be using an automatic
> flash, so I pick an f stop, say f/8, and then meter, and then give extra.
>
> Should I meter the model's face w/ an incident?
>
> I'm not sure at all.
>

[B. Buckles]

Jim's post hit on the easy solution in his last sentence. Use a
reflector to bounce the light back into the model's face. You can see
your results and measure the light on the model's face at the same time.
Plus, a reflector puts a catch light in the eyes rather than producing
the red eye effect. Find a spot where the sun is just above the tree
line or building and place your model out in front so the light just
hits the head and shoulders. The highlights will separate the model from
the dark background. If you really want to get good outdoor portraits,
I'd suggest you rent a video by Dean Collins at your local camera store.
Collins also has an article in the June issue of "Studio Photography and
Design", page 36, discussing this one light technique using a strobe
placed behind and above the model and a reflector for the bouncing light
into the face
Good Luck,
Bob

[Jarhead140]

hey adam,
this is how i've achieved the results i desire most outdoors. if
possible,(normal, mid lighting conditions) i do not prefer the use of flash for
portraits. i would much rather strategically bounce existing light with big
foamcore panels, they're cheap and available in white, gold ,silver etc.., with
much more pleasing, natural results. an incident reading from the models face
is right on track! , but bracket a1/2 or full stop, depending on film(slide or
print) pretty simple and results are beautiful!!!!

[Veillla]

Meters can quickly become a crutch! You can really go mental trying to
constantly meter everything you shoot. It ends up costing you money/time. I
say pick a quality film Fuji/Kodak and try to stick with one speed. I shoot
with nothing but "400" (Except low-light then it's 800). If you spend a few
hours in the day going around metering yourself. You don't need a
person/client there to meter. Some outdoor areas are a pain to deal with, but
most are just overcomplicated. On a good bright day you can get 500 @ F/22.
Just increase or decrease proportionally with the time of the day. If it's not
bright(overcast) you can go down to F/16 or F/11. If you don't want your
background so sharp then go adjust accordingly. These new films have such wide
latitudes that Overexposing and Underexposing really doesn't hurt much as long
as you aren't going to try to scan the stuff. Good luck.
Lane