AGFA SILETTE 6005?
Jason Cheswick
step back and I found a very cheap Agfa Silette 6005?
Thats all I know.
I can easily make sense of some of the dials, and i know how to manually
load the film (that was fun when I first tried! hahaha I definately rely too
much on technology!!! hahahaha) - but it would be excellent if anyone to
clarify all the settings for me - or if anyone has a manual online?
Thanks for any help
Jason Cheswick (j...@havendesign.freeuk.com)
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Keith Whaley
no less than 15 Agfa Silettes!
Is it a rangefinder or a simple viewfinder kind of body?
Plain rangefinder or coupled (to the lens) rangefinder?
Interchangeable lenses (viewfinder with two or three bright line
frames for the different lenses)?
What is the I.D. on the lens? Any shutter I.D.?
Where did you find "6005" indicated?
Not that much of that matters if all you need is help finding the
shutter release! <bg>
What is it you want to know?
keith whaley
Jason Cheswick
Thanks for replying. I thought I would be lost on this one! I have searched
the internet - and pictures are all I can find! hahaha
ok, where to start............
The 6005 came from the brown leather case that it is in, it is embossed in
the leather along with the name.
The camera body itself has no identifying marks except for the AGFA diamond
and a serial number (?) ZB 3710 on the bottom at the back.
The view finder is one central plain window - not through the lens.
Lens is a fixed AGFA AGNAR 1:3.5 / 45 and also has SILETTE VARIO written on
it.
The camera has no other markings.
What seems to be the small window on the film rewind wheel - where usualy it
would have the film speed select (?) is not working perfectly - and only has
settings like CN, CT etc. What are these settings? I also noticed it has 21
degrees etc - which correspond to film speeds - but what are the letters for
?
I was also just hoping for a little bit of info on the appature and shutter
settings on the lens, just to make sure I am setting them correctly.
Tell you what! Its scary having a camera where you dont view through the
lens!!!!!! Feel lost!!! but I need to learn. hahahaha
Thanks for looking, hope you can help.
Thanks again
Jason
"Keith Whaley" <kei...@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
news:3D6CDC96...@dslextreme.com...
Jason Cheswick
http://perso.club-internet.fr/ptthome/sld068.htm
here is a picture of the exact model, with a short description below.
Thanks
Jason
"Jason Cheswick" <jason.c...@gpdata.co.uk> wrote in message
news:akkmko$fk8$1...@news.minx.net.uk...
Keith Whaley
Jason Cheswick wrote:
>
> Keith,
>
> Thanks for replying. I thought I would be lost on this one! I have searched
> the internet - and pictures are all I can find! hahaha
>
> ok, where to start............
>
> The 6005 came from the brown leather case that it is in, it is embossed in
> the leather along with the name.
Like "Agfa Silette 6005?"
> The camera body itself has no identifying marks except for the AGFA diamond
> and a serial number (?) ZB 3710 on the bottom at the back.
>
> The view finder is one central plain window - not through the lens.
>
> Lens is a fixed AGFA AGNAR 1:3.5 / 45 and also has SILETTE VARIO written on
> it.
The maker of the lens is AGFA, the brand name of the lens if AGNAR,
and the maximum lens opening is f/3.5.
The brand name of the camera is Silette, and Vario makes the shutter.
> The camera has no other markings.
>
> What seems to be the small window on the film rewind wheel - where usualy it
> would have the film speed select (?) is not working perfectly - and only has
> settings like CN, CT etc. What are these settings?
My semi-educated guess is, C stands for color film, and T for tungsten
(indoor) film. N might be normal or daylight film. It has to do with
the color balance of the film. Agfa especially used this notation for
film speeds, in combination with the DIN values. See the URL below.
> I also noticed it has 21
> degrees etc - which correspond to film speeds - but what are the letters for?
See this URL:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/faqs/faq0010.shtml
> I was also just hoping for a little bit of info on the appature and shutter
> settings on the lens, just to make sure I am setting them correctly.
A very quick rundown:
Very bright scenes require the lens aperture (shutter iris opening) to
be set very small. The larger numbers, such as f/ 16.0 indicate a
small opening.
Relatively dim light, like cloudy overcast scenes, scenery under the
cover of trees, etc., require large lens openings, which correspond to
the smaller numbers, like f/ 3.5.
Very bright scenes also require faster speeds, like 1/125 and 1/250th
of a second. That doesn't let the light in for very long.
Really dim situations require slower speeds, like 1/60 or 1/30 second,
to expose the film to whatever light there is, for a longer period of time.
Keep in mind that unless you are using a tripod to keep the camera
very steady, you are better off using the faster speeds from 1/60 sec.
and up.
1/30 second requires you be exceptionally steady, or use a tripod.
On average, most usual outdoor photography can be done with 1/125
second and f/8.0 lens opening. usning 100 speed film.
> Tell you what! Its scary having a camera where you dont view through the
> lens!!!!!! Feel lost!!! but I need to learn. hahahaha
>
> Thanks for looking, hope you can help.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Jason
Hope all that helps you!
keith whaley
Jason Cheswick
I have been forcing myself to learn exposure settings - and I will be
testing each and every setting on the camera to see the effects.
I have found a brilliant web site that has an exposure table for different
light situations with all settings that have been tried and tested. It is
useful because I am big fan of grainy high speed films, and it covers most
film speeds in the table.
I have now figured out most of the camera (except whether it is actually
working or not - wont see that until after I have the film developed) but I
am a little unsure of the focus ring.
Not focusing through the lens was a daunting idea, but I am still a bit
lost, as each side of the focus ring there are settings to line up - it
looks like depending on the appature settings - 16,11,8,5.6,4,3.5 and then a
small diamond pointer and then it repeats on the other side with 3.5,4,5.6
etc.
Because they go down both sides of the lens it is confusing me. I cannot see
which settings i am supposed to use to line up the focus? Any tips?
Thanks again, and sorry for sounding a bit useless! hahahahahaha Once I know
it, I will be ok when I get hold of older cameras.
Thanks
Jason
"Keith Whaley" <kei...@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
news:3D6E580C...@dslextreme.com...
Keith Whaley
Jason Cheswick wrote:
>
> Thanks Keith,
>
> I have been forcing myself to learn exposure settings - and I will be
> testing each and every setting on the camera to see the effects.
>
> I have found a brilliant web site that has an exposure table for different
> light situations with all settings that have been tried and tested. It is
> useful because I am big fan of grainy high speed films, and it covers most
> film speeds in the table.
>
> I have now figured out most of the camera (except whether it is actually
> working or not - wont see that until after I have the film developed) but I
> am a little unsure of the focus ring.
>
> Not focusing through the lens was a daunting idea, but I am still a bit
> lost, as each side of the focus ring there are settings to line up - it
> looks like depending on the appature settings - 16,11,8,5.6,4,3.5 and then a
> small diamond pointer and then it repeats on the other side with 3.5,4,5.6
> etc.
>
> Because they go down both sides of the lens it is confusing me. I cannot see
> which settings i am supposed to use to line up the focus? Any tips?
The diamond is the mark you use to set the subject-to-camera distance on.
Rotate the lens ring until the diamond is opposite the distance you
estimate your subject is, away from the lens.
If your subject is at 15 feet, for illustration purposes, set the
focus ring's 15 at the diamond mark.
Now, looking at the lens opening you've chosen, let's say f/8.0, you
have two f/8.0 marks on the adjacent ring, right? On the distance
ring, the two f/8.0 index marks line up with about 8 feet on one mark,
and infinity on the other f/8.0 mark.
This is called the hyperfocal distance for f/8.0 aperture.
In other words, with an f/8.0 lens opening, and the lens focus
distance set at 15 feet, everything from infinity down to 8 feet will
be in acceptable focus!
A small fact to put away...the smaller the aperture, the greater
amount of your scene will be in focus, for any given distance setting.
Conversely, the wider open the aperture, the less will be in focus.
That's called "depth of field."
Keep your distance setting at 15 feet.
Look at the distances that show up if you had your lens opening at
f/3.5. (Look at the numbers across from the two 3.5 index marks.)
The range of items in focus will now be from about 13 feet to about 22
feet. Anything closer or further away will be increasingly out of
focus.
This is how the simplest of point-and-shoot cameras work, that don't
have any way to change the focus distance.
They use fast film, and relatively small lens openings.
For instance, if they have the lens aperture fixed at f/11.0,
everything between maybe 6 feet and infinity will be in focus!
This is _very_ handy if you're out somewhere and are taking
photographs in decent sun, well-lighted, you can set your aperture at
f/11.0 and your lens distance setting at 12 feet, and everything
between infinity and 6.5 feet will be in focus! Never have to adjust
your camera so long as you're shooting subjects reasonably well lit.
Just point, and shoot! <g>
> Thanks again, and sorry for sounding a bit useless! hahahahahaha Once I know
> it, I will be ok when I get hold of older cameras.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jason
If this is too confusing, ask for clarification. I believe if you
practice what I've said, camera in hand, you'll see it all come together.
Good luck,
keith whaley
Martin Jangowski
> What seems to be the small window on the film rewind wheel - where usualy it
> would have the film speed select (?) is not working perfectly - and only has
> settings like CN, CT etc. What are these settings? I also noticed it has 21
> degrees etc - which correspond to film speeds - but what are the letters for
> ?
This is just a reminder about the film you have in your camera. CN stands for
Color Negative, CT is Color Transparents and so on. The numbers are the speed
in DIN.
Martin