What is entailed in fixing it? Is this an easy at-home fix or a
professional
repair job? Does anyone know what I should expect to spend on the
repair? Is it worth repairing?
Also, if anyone has any recommendations for a good repair shop in
the San Francisco area, I'd love to hear it.
Thank you.
Kathleen
Richard Shiell, ASLA, Horticultural Photographer
I also have this problem. Sometimes it doesn't work even at M250.
I found out that sometimes this is because the winder is not fully wound.
So when it jams, try pressing down the mirror crank manually, then gently
nudge the winder all the way, and you might hear a click that means the
jam is released.
Also, don't leave the camera without use for too long. Take it
out and try all shutter speeds from time to time. Also a well used
camera is a happy camera. No fungus or mechanical problem.
> I wanted to ask you, since I also have an FE2, what kind of a flash
>have you been using?...for years I used a Sunpack 422-D, you know, with
>the dedicated module, but it took a fall recently and because it is no
>longer manufactured I must now seek out a replacement. My fondness for
>this particular flash was due to the adjustable power option which I have
>used quite a lot. Perhaps a TTL flash (through the lens) would be a
>better choice. Any feedback would be nice, Thanks
Hi,
PMFJI. What's wrong with Sunpak's current offerings? The dedicated
module you mention supports TTL flash metering. The 433D, 444D and
555 are all dedicated and offered for Nikon.
On the other hand, you could go OEM with a Nikon dedicated flash.
Check out a Nikon SB-16B. I believe it may have the options you're
looking for, including TTL flash metering, variable power output, and
the ability to slave up to five other dedicated units with TTL flash
metering for each. Other options for the FE2 are the SB-15 and the
SB-18, both of which are quite a bit less powerful than the SB-16B
and I doubt if either of them have all of the other features you're
looking for. The SB-15 is a TTL-metered unit with two auto modes
and a manual mode (sorry, I don't know anything about the SB-18).
These two are no longer in production, but either can be found used,
as can the SB-16B. All three of these units are what Nikon
recommended in the FE2 owner's manual. If you decide to go the
SB-16B route, be sure you get an SB-16B and not an SB-16A. The
'A' model is for the F3, which has a non-standard hot shoe fitting.
The only other current production Nikon model I know about that
might fit the bill for you is the SB-26.
Good luck. (... no, I don't work for Nikon)