Favourite 70s rangefinders?
Joe B.
<noli...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>"Joe B." wrote:
>>
>> I'm curious to know what people like in this catgory.
>
>Leica M5
Leicas are nice. I probably didn't phrase the question to well- but
I'm trying to find out what fixed-lens rangefinders people
particularly like, and why.
Joe B. (remove glop for email)
LKreig3173
Since you've started quite a collection, I would recommend the Yashica Lynx
14E, aka the poor man's Leica. Wonderful lens and an almost bullet proof
camera.
Wayne Harrison
>Olympus XA. Everything in a tiny package with a removable A11 flash.
>
>
>"Joe B." wrote:
>
>> I'm curious to know what people like in this catgory.
i have the following: olympus 35rc; olympus xa and xa2;
yashica electro gsn; konica c35af; minolta hi-matic 7s; konica s3; and
two canonet ql17s. the latter two types are my favorite; in fact, i
would have to say that the canonet can produce images the equal of any
of my nikkors, when stopped down. and the konica is the ultimate
stealth camera: black, totally silent, and a terrific lens.
wayne harrison
GERosen
>Since you've started quite a collection, I would recommend the Yashica Lynx
>14E, aka the poor man's Leica. Wonderful lens and an almost bullet proof
>camera.
I'll second this one, except I prefer the earlier plain model 14(without the E)
only because the center needle type of exposure readout roughly shows the
amount of over or under exposure if you're bracketing. Also don't ignore the
other Lynx models with 1.8 lenses. I'm still using a Lynx 1000 that I bought
to take on my honeymoon in 1960. The selenium meter has died but with a Luna
Pro it still turns in great kodachromes.
regards, Gerry
GER...@aol.com (Gerry Rosen)
ck...@blueneptune.com
1. konica auto s2 - metered in manual mode, parallax correction, great
lens...big & heavy
2. olympus 35rc - nice size, data in viewfinder in auto and manual
3. canonet ql17 - nice feel, solid
4. konica c35 - auto everything but focus..I always get good pics?!
5. ricoh 500g - boxy, very 70's, kinda cheap feeling
6. olympus pen ee3- half frame, novelty
I just picked up a PAX M-3 that if I can get the shutter working I'm
sure is will take at least the 3rd spot. I think its a bit older than
30years so it might not qualify. Anybody have any hints on getting to
the shutter blades?
wcm...@attglobal.net
$41, complete with beautiful 50mm Leica TM compatible lens. Not a mark
on it, self timer, diopter correction, interchangeable lenses, very
bright viewfinder/coupled rangefinder. Kind of on the heavy side but,
hey, it's made of metal -- remember that stuff? A terrific looker &
picture taker built in 1971, so the reliability's better than what's
usually claimed for most Russian/Soviet cameras.
ongpj
* Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping. Smart is Beautiful
Eric Brehm
> >though the unique EV-value based manual metering method is quite
> >interesting.
>
> So you can probably tell me- am I right in assuming that
> 1] for full auto operation you don't get any indication what aperture
> and shutter setting the camera is using? Not a million miles away from
> the full auto p&s cameras of today, in fact... And
> 2] you can get shutter priority by setting a shutter speed instead of
> "A" on the shutter speed ring?
It's been a while since I've used the 35SP, but as I remember, for auto
exposure you have to set both shutter speed and aperture dials to "A." The
viewfinder then displays the current EV value, but not the actual settings
used. If you turn the rings away from A, you are now in manual mode, and you
select a combination of settings that produces an EV value (indicated in a
little window on the lens) that matches the one displayed in the viewfinder.
I'm afraid I don't remember what the camera will do if you leave either the
aperture or shutter ring set at "A", and move the other one to a particular
value. But my guess is the exposure would not be automatic in this case.
Perhaps you can locate a copy of the users manual for this camera, which
would undoubtedly provide the answer.
> I'm thinking the lens might be pretty good and if I like the look of
> the pictures it might be worth getting used to using this camera.
> It's not every day you find yourself holding a rangefinder with spot
> metering.
Seems like the spot meter would be a good tool for assessing the tonal range
of the subject. You could take readings of various points within the frame,
to see how the EV value changes. Or in auto mode, you could just take a
reading of something mid-toned, lock it in, and then fire the shutter.
Definitely unusual on a camera of this type, as you say.
> > I rather prefer the Olympus 35RC model; in fact I bought one of
> >these new in the early '70's and used it continuously for about ten
years.
>
> I like the sound of this one a lot.
The RC is quite a bit more compact than the SP. The lack of metered manual
is to some degree compensated for by the RC's auto exposure lock feature,
where you lightly depress the shutter button until the aperture needle stops
at the metered value, and then recompose and shoot. In theory, you can use
this feature to take readings of different parts of the subject, then make
your actual aperture selection using manual override. It is not the
smoothest or most precise operation in the world (the movement of the needle
is very sensitive to the amount of pressure applied to the shutter release),
but once you get the hang of it, it works okay.
I think that the lenses on the Olympus rangefinders of this era are very
good. I did a lot of 16x24 enlargements from Kodachromes shot with the 35RC,
and to me they look as sharp as anything I've produced with Nikon or Leica
SLR equipment.
Eric
TravGlen
I'll never know!
"Joe B." <jo...@glopdircon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:38ad76ce...@news.dircon.co.uk...
> I'm curious to know what people like in this catgory. My first ever
> 35mm camera was a Petri 7s mk II and now some years on that I have
> rediscovered the fixed-lens rangefinder I find the later more compact
> ones with auto exposure options fascinating.
>
> I've recently got myself a Canon QL17 GIII and that is a nice size and
> is very usable. One thing I like about it is that you can see what
> aperture the camera is setting when it is set on auto. Unfortunately
> it has no metered manual exposure.
>
> Today I received an Olympus 35SP and although it has spot metering (!)
> and a top notch lens, it doesn't seem quite as nice to use. It has
> metered manual exposure, of a sort- you have to transfer the EV
> readout from the viewfinder to a window on the lens barrel by turning
> the aperture and shutter speed rings until the right EV number appears
> there. This is a bit long-winded but at least you can tell what the
> settings are when you are taking pictures. But with this camera set on
> full auto, you have no indication at all. That is not so good, since
> the whole point of using this kind of camera (for me anyway) is that
> it has auto exposure capability.
>
> I have also found a Konica S2 and it will arrive shortly- I gather
> this isn't one of the smaller cameras but people have raved about the
> lens and so I'm getting one to se what all the fuss is about.
>
> Any other suggestions? I've read up on the Cameraquest site BTW, and
> seen Robert Monaghan's web page on rangefinders. But there may be
> other recommendations that do not appear in those places. Anyone using
> the Olympus 35SP with recommendations for me on how to use it?
Moonlight Graham
speeds from 1/8 through 1/500 plub "b", Hexanon f1.8 lens,ASA 25-800.
The bad news? needs PX675 1.35v mercury battery. Got any?
Joe B.
<lock...@concentric.net> wrote:
>Konica Auto S3 - beautiful black finish, automatic fill-flash function,
>speeds from 1/8 through 1/500 plub "b", Hexanon f1.8 lens,ASA 25-800.
>
>The bad news? needs PX675 1.35v mercury battery. Got any?
Living in the UK, mercury batteries are not quite the stumbling block
that they are in the US! OK, that's another one on my list...
Norman Schwartz
Moonlight Graham <lock...@concentric.net> wrote in message
news:38B03BDF...@concentric.net...
> Konica Auto S3 - beautiful black finish, automatic
fill-flash function,
> speeds from 1/8 through 1/500 plub "b", Hexanon f1.8
lens,ASA 25-800.
I use the fill-flash function on the Auto S3 but find its
usefulness limited since I must be just the right distance
from the subject (corresponding to film speed and flashes
output) for the best results. It has been some time since
I've used an "auto flash" and would very much appreciate
learning about other people's experiences with compact
inexpensive auto flashes that could be used with the S, S2
and S3's for the purpose of "fill-in" with the hassle of
worrying about subject distance (4 to 15 foot range, using
ASA 100- 400 films).
> The bad news? needs PX675 1.35v mercury battery. Got any?
I've seen a couple of sources for these mentioned on the
photo ngs. Try Deja.com.
Norman
Gary Frost
fill flash. You can use any available shutter speed to synch.
Get a Flash that has "auto-thyrister". Usually they will have
2 or 3 different f/stop settings for "auto" exposure using the
thyrister. If you are using 100 speed film and want -1 stop
fill flash, select one of the f/stops settings for asa 200 film.
(this will give the -1 stop fill for flash) Now use the shutter
speed to balance proper ambient exposure to the selected f/stop.
As long as you are within the distance range of the flash, the
results are .... well, as good as "matrix balanced" bla, bla bla.
Get a decent sized flash and some 400 film, aim the flash at the
ceiling, use the auto-thyrister to set exposure and you will get
far better flash pictures than any P&S. Plan on loosing 2 stops
and calculate distance to the ceiling and then to subject for
maximum flash power.
The old guide number flash works by changing the aperture as you
change the focus distance.
I don't have enough of these old rangefinders to pick a favorite.
(but I suspect somewhere is a Leica with my name on it...)
I find the meters and various "auto modes" with their "electro-
mechanical" linkage to the older, slow, CdS meter, to be of
limited use. The best way to use them (for me anyway) is full
manual with or without the meter. A great chance to learn how
to judge exposure in daylight without a meter! It's not that
hard with negative film. You must be a little crazy, or really
good to do this with slide film! Most of these older meters and
(usually a little slow) shutters are not up to the accuracy
needed for consistent slide film exposure anyway. ...But I have
a Konica Auto S that has a meter & shutter accurate enough.
...anyway, pick up an old Vivitar auto-thyrister flash and
give it a try.
Gary Frost
Linus Tay
Check out this link :
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/classic35mmcompacts
not a lot of traffic there but some good posts.
Linus
Norman Schwartz
TravGlen <fuz...@zeus.jersey.com> wrote in message
news:38b0...@news.jersey.net...
> Leica CL with 40mm & 90mm. An incrediable camera and why I
ever sold mine,
> I'll never know!
Flash sync at 1/60 sec is one good reason. My CLs scratch
(emulsion side of) film even after have been to Leica
service (along with sample results). They could not figure
out why! After repeated failed attempts to repair, they
replaced it with a new body, which also scratches film.
Norman
Stuart Willis
You totally missed the absolute king of the castle.
Olympus 35 SPn. Hard to find these days but, without parallel.
Stuart Willis
Sunny Queensland, Downunder.
mailto:Et...@uq.net.au
Wookie Chewbaaka
fixed lens RF cameras ever built.
Stuart Willis <Ethos...@uq.net.au> wrote in message
news:38B20FCA...@uq.net.au...
Joe B.
<Ethos...@uq.net.au> wrote:
>You totally missed the absolute king of the castle.
>Olympus 35 SPn. Hard to find these days but, without parallel.
I've been playing with a recently purchased 35SP and I don't think I
like it that much- it is quite good but with one notable flaw- the
vibration caused when releasing the shutter. It packs quite a wallop
which I can feel with both hands when it fires, and because of this I
don't think it is going to be much good for slow shutter speed
handheld available light shots, which is mainly what I bought it for.
Gene Windell
<spam_ojovidrio@spam_null.net> wrote:
>How could you leave out the Yashica TL-Electro ? Arguably one of the best
>fixed lens RF cameras ever built.
Are you referring to the Yashica Electro GSN? The TL Super and the TL
Electro-X were Yashica 35mm SLR cameras.
Gene Windell
DMark35522
B.) writes:
>
>I'm curious to know what people like in this catgory. My first ever
>35mm camera was a Petri 7s mk II and now some years on that I have
>rediscovered the fixed-lens rangefinder I find the later more compact
>ones with auto exposure options fascinating.
I've been on this soapbox before but here goes:
I loved my Canonet QL17 until it started jamming mid-roll. This is apparently
a problem with the QL feature.
I then got a Minolta 7S which took very nice pictures, but the size and the
exposure number dance you have to go through was too much for me. I FINALLY
got a good deal on a Minolta 7SII which I LOVE. It can be used all manual,
it's a fast lens, and as small as a Konica S3. It is not quite as solid
feeling as the Canonet, but has a wonderful lens and is smaller. My only issue
is that mine is not all black. I'd love to find one of those, but the last one
I saw on Ebay went for around 150.00. Mine was 50.00. Other than that look
for one of these. they are GREAT little cameras.
Denis Markell