please suggest flash for nikon portrait photography
AFN
the Kodak dcs-14n (13.8 megapixel camera that takes the nikon lenses and
some nikon flashes). I want to take portrait shots of my kids. I like
wide-open shots, blurring the background, with soft lighting (no surprise).
I don't know jack about lighting and have never owned an add-on flash for
this camera.
Can someone please suggest what flash stuff I might buy? I know the Kodak
camera takes the SB-50 speedlight, but again, I don't know anything about
this stuff. I don't know if that's good for soft portrait stuff or if
it's a totally bright spotlight that would look terrible. I don't know if
it's adjustable. I don't know what a speedlight is versus whatever.
Please help. And please don't tell me to go to stores and talk to people.
I just want to trust some nice advice here, buy it, and be done. I have
very little time right now. Thanks.
JR
SB-80DX. Now these will not get you the same results as you might be
looking for. You may need a 2 light strobe kit. This will get you the
best results, but you should play with a Nikon speedlite firstg and see
if it does what you need. The SB28 DX and SB80 DX are more featured
than the SB-50 DX.
JR
In article <2YaCb.18650$6Q2....@twister.socal.rr.com>,
Tom
"AFN" <DELETEnewsgro...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2YaCb.18650$6Q2....@twister.socal.rr.com...
Um, OK...
First, the "wide open" "soft lighting" effect you seem to seek is generally
associated with available light photography, not flash.
Second, the Kodak 14n is crap for available light stuff. A nice studio
camera, but pretty much crap elsewhere.
Third, you can get by shooting portraits with a one-light setup (I have seen
some talented photographers turn out nice stuff that way) but you would be
better served to assemble something like a set of 3 or 4 Alien Bees or their
equivalent if you are serious about portraiture.
Last, if you are dead set on using on camera flash, do some web searches on
bounced flash and just start experimenting. Practice makes the master.
Tom
AFN
"Tom" <seaska...@removethis.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:9BlCb.31524$8y1.133519@attbi_s52...
Thanks for the reply. I do most everything outdoors. You don't like the
Kodak 14n for that. Do you have an alternate suggestion for a camera? I
was tempted by the Nikon D1 but it's only 6mp (which I fear will show grain
on 8x10s; I do 8x10s all the time), and it didn't get good reviews. I
might also consider the more expensive Nikon 6mp camera, but same concern
about the resolution. Resolution is my big reason for wanting the Kodak
14n. I would stick to film, but I always end up in photoshop for very mild
editing/cropping, and I'm really tired of scanning negatives because of the
dust problems. I spend more time scanning and removing dust in Photoshop
than I do making mild Photoshop edits. That's why I'm desperate to finally
get a digital camera, but one where I can use my nice Nikon lenses. Of
course, I could sell my Nikon lenses and switch to Canon, but their high-end
megapixel one is more expensive than the Kodak 14n.
Ken Trout
In article <2YaCb.18650$6Q2....@twister.socal.rr.com>, AFN wrote:
> this stuff. I don't know if that's good for soft portrait stuff or if
> it's a totally bright spotlight that would look terrible. I don't know if
> it's adjustable. I don't know what a speedlight is versus whatever.
I can tell you what I do, although it may not be best suited for you. You
seem more interested in total studio type photography so maybe bigger lights
are a better choice than dedicated camera flashes.
But... I use an SB-28 and an N80. I have the Nikon TTL flash cord. I
set the flash on a lightstand and bounce it into a large umbrella. Metering
is set on the matrix pattern, and I use +1 stop flash exposure compensation.
Film choice is Fuji NPH 400.
I can position this 'light' and a reflector in various ways for different
pictures. It seems to work best for a single person. Look at some books for
ideas on how to position the light.
However, my main purpose for the flash isn't studio type portraits. I just
wanted to play with the idea. And, it works for me.
If you want to try this idea look to a Nikon SB-28DX, SB-80DX, or SB-50DX.
Grab a lightstand, umbrella, clamp, reflector (big white foam board can
be used) and TTL cord.
However, you might decide 'real' studio lights are the way to go. I've never
used those, so hopefully others can help you out.
ken
AFN
about umbrellas and/or separate lights, but I've stayed away because I don't
want to be setting up too much stuff when I'm trying to grab pictures of the
kids. But this concept is nice because I can use the flash on the camera
for quick pics, and take it off, as you suggest, for more planned pics.
By the way, I use the spot metering option +1. I found matrix to be
terrible with portraits. I'm disappointed with Nikon's metering in general.
Thanks again.
"Ken Trout" <nez...@spamaway.fred.net> wrote in message
news:slrnbtkhnc....@thunder.xecu.net...
Matt Clara
> Thanks for a great specific suggestion. I like that idea. I've thought
> about umbrellas and/or separate lights, but I've stayed away because I
don't
> want to be setting up too much stuff when I'm trying to grab pictures of
the
> kids.
If you just want to "grab" shots, get the SB-80. It won't let you down.
You don't need a studio rig to grab shots. Would be counter productive to
the "grabbing" part.
>But this concept is nice because I can use the flash on the camera
> for quick pics, and take it off, as you suggest, for more planned pics.
>
> By the way, I use the spot metering option +1. I found matrix to be
> terrible with portraits. I'm disappointed with Nikon's metering in
general.
That's funny, it's considered the best in the world by many and it's
certainly as good as anything else out there.
I use Nikon to shoot weddings, and it's Matrix meter almost all the way.
Works a trick with the SB-80, though I do dial in 2/3+ on the flash.
What is it you are having problems with?