Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

silver oxide batteries vs. alkaline

209 views
Skip to first unread message

nathantw

unread,
May 21, 2002, 11:20:23 PM5/21/02
to
Hi everyone,
I just threw in some new batteries into my Nikon FE and I actually splurged
and threw in the recommended silver oxide batteries for the first time in 20
years. I was wondering what the differences were between the silver oxide
batteries and the regular $.99 alkalines? Are the silver oxide less prone to
voltage variations or something?

Thanks for any enlightenment.

Nathan


Webmistress 888

unread,
May 22, 2002, 12:04:57 AM5/22/02
to
Nate
I cant answer your question but, I have been using the lithium batteries in
my FM, FE's and FE-2 for about a decade now. They are great. Keep going even in
extreme cold.

Graham

unread,
May 22, 2002, 8:07:13 AM5/22/02
to
Yes there is a basic difference. When silver oxide batteries fail their
voltage falss to zero quite quickly, but when lithium batteries fail their
output voltage falls quite gradually. In cameras like the Nikon FM range,
where the batteries are just used for metering, this makes no difference. If
the camera has an electronic shutter, such as the FE range, an almost
used-up lithium battery can cause erratic operation of the shutter as the
output voltage gradually drops. The other big difference is that lithium
batteries work at lower temperatures than silver oxide batts.

Graham

"nathantw" <nath...@home.com> wrote in message
news:uem3mld...@corp.supernews.com...

Norm Fleming

unread,
May 22, 2002, 11:04:51 AM5/22/02
to

Graham wrote:

> Yes there is a basic difference. When silver oxide batteries fail their
> voltage falss to zero quite quickly, but when lithium batteries fail their
> output voltage falls quite gradually. In cameras like the Nikon FM range,
> where the batteries are just used for metering, this makes no difference.

Surely this would make a difference. If your meter is designed to operate with
a fixed voltage, say 3 v, then as the battery voltage drops with age, you will
gradually get more and more inaccurate exposures. You might get away with it
with wide latitude print film, but probably not with slides.
Safer to stick with silver oxides - By the way they may last a lot longer if you
take them out of the camera when it's not in use. Some cameras known as battery
eaters e.g. some of the older Olympus OM series, have a tiny constant drain even
when switched off.

Cheers

Norm Fleming

Mike

unread,
May 22, 2002, 5:07:50 PM5/22/02
to

"Norm Fleming" <nfle...@ms.umanitoba.ca> wrote in message
news:3CEBB393...@ms.umanitoba.ca...

>
> Surely this would make a difference. If your meter is designed to operate
with
> a fixed voltage, say 3 v, then as the battery voltage drops with age, you
will
> gradually get more and more inaccurate exposures.

You'll probably find a voltage regulation circuit of some kind in the camera
that negates the effect of variations in voltage.


Gary Frost

unread,
May 22, 2002, 6:01:35 PM5/22/02
to
Top post, bottom post, middle post? I don't care.

I know some older meters have that problem. (example the 1.35 volt mercury
vs. 1.5 volts cause meter errors in alot of old cameras & meters)

At least for the Nikons I've used FE2 FG F3 with the 3 volt batteries
this is not a problem. As Mike posted, they must use a voltage regulator.
There may be other cameras that don't work this way though.

When you run a battery dead in the camera, the meter remains consistent
until the mirror locks up from a dead battery. (alkaline, Lithium, or
silver oxide)

You are given ample warning long before this with the low battery
warning. (at least a roll or 2 even with the silver oxide that drop
dead quickly... ignore at your own peril)

0 new messages