Sepia-Look Photos With Kodak T400-CN Film
Henry Rowbottom
I am going on a tourist-type vacation with a 1850's theme to it, and I
want to take some photos that can be made to kook like the old sepia
photos.
I spoke to my local dealer, and he has pointed me towards the Kodak T400CN
film, as it can be developed with the C-41 Colour Print process, and he
claims it will give prints that look like sepias without playing with the
acid they used to use to get those prints.
Does anyone have any experience with this film? If you do, I would really
appreciate knowing how well the photos turned out, and if there are any
tricks you need to use.
It says it is a 400 speed film, but the sales guy says that this is not
critical. What speed should I shoot at if the climate is sunny enough for
a 25 ASA film, for instance? Should I shoot all the film at the same
aperture, and tell them when they go to develop it, or just go all over
the camera to get the depth of field I think I want?
I am leaving for this excursion about Aug. 5th, so any information before
that would be appreciated. (I am really leaning toward buying a roll or 2
and playing with it over the next week, just to get a feel for the stuff.)
I am using a totally manual camera, a Ricoh KR-10 that has done wonders
for me overt the past couple of decades. (I don't know what difference it
makes to the film, but it is likely important to those who are going to be
giving me handy little tips.)
TKS,
HR.
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Vanya3
While I haven't had the chance to use the T400CN film yet, I have read
about it... and it's basically a color film but without any color... if
that makes sense. There's basically an absence of dye... Ilford makes a
similar type of b&w film which I have used and the prints look essentially
like true black and white prints. There wasn't any sepia effect to be seen
on any of my prints. I can't say for certain about the T400CN so after you
try them out.. I'd be interested in hearing your results.
But for capturing sepia-looking photos, you should look into purchasing
filters. I know Tiffen makes 3 filters for that specific purpose... sepia
1, 2 and 3. The first one creates a slight sepia effect with the second
one creating a more enhanced effect. The third one is just like #2 except
that it adds a warming effect to the filter to create slightly softer
images.
I hope this helps and good luck.
david k
Henry,
you are making something *very* simple overly complex. You want
sepia-toned prints, just a taken *any* black and white negs and print
them on color paper.
as for the new Kodak film, it probably is fine and you should be able to
shoot it at 200 if you want. I haven't tried it yet, but I use Ilford
XP2 quite frequently - this is also an ASA 400 rated B & W Chromogenic
film. I have sitting in my office a photo I recently took in Moscow with
XP2, blown up to 20x24 and printed on color paper for a sepia-like look.
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David M Anthony
In article <rowbotth***-19079723...@ftmmpx02-port-16.agt.net>,
Henry Rowbottom <rowbotth***@telusplanet.net> wrote:
>I am going on a tourist-type vacation with a 1850's theme to it, and I
>want to take some photos that can be made to kook like the old sepia
>photos.
>
>I spoke to my local dealer, and he has pointed me towards the Kodak T400CN
>film, as it can be developed with the C-41 Colour Print process, and he
>claims it will give prints that look like sepias without playing with the
>acid they used to use to get those prints.
>
>Does anyone have any experience with this film? If you do, I would really
>appreciate knowing how well the photos turned out, and if there are any
>tricks you need to use.
I've not shot with the Kodak B&W/C41 but I've shot with the Ilford
version, XP2, of 'chromogenic' (sp?) film. The XP2 produces sepia
toned prints when printed on _colour_ paper; the processer can bias
the print to produce the sepia tone. I think that the Kodak T400CN
is supposed to yield a more neutral/grayscale tone when printed on
colour paper, but I suppose you can specify a sepia tone when you
drop it off.
>
>It says it is a 400 speed film, but the sales guy says that this is not
>critical. What speed should I shoot at if the climate is sunny enough for
>a 25 ASA film, for instance? Should I shoot all the film at the same
>aperture, and tell them when they go to develop it, or just go all over
>the camera to get the depth of field I think I want?
I think what he means is that it has some latitude for overexposure,
as do most print films. It (XP2) is a very fine grained film and overexposure
will tend to saturate the grain. By overexposure we're talking 1-2 stops.
That is, if the meter indicates an exposure of 1/500 at f/16, then you
could overexpose by one stop by shhoting at 1/250 at f/16 or at 1/500
at f/11. You see, in either case, opening up the aperature one stop or
slowing the shutter speed one stop, you've doubled the amount of light
entering the camera. Increasing exposure 1 stop is doubling the amount
of light and decreasing the exposure 1 stop is halving the amount of
light. That example I gave is for rating the film at it's indicated
value of 400 ASA and over exposing it manually . If you set the
ASA to 200 you could shoot at whatever the meter indicates is correct exposure
and the entire roll would be overexposed one stop. IMHO, this is generally
a good thing with most print films.
This is not a flame, but by the wording of your question it seems like
your concepts of exposure are hazy. That's why my response above went
on a bit. If you already knew what I was saying then apologies, if not
then time to brush up a bit.
>
>I am leaving for this excursion about Aug. 5th, so any information before
>that would be appreciated. (I am really leaning toward buying a roll or 2
>and playing with it over the next week, just to get a feel for the stuff.)
This would be a _good_ idea anytime you try a new film. Try both the
XP2 and the T400CN, I'm curious how they compare.
Best of luck,
Dave
Bijazdune
Use the exposure meter. Don't just leave it set at one setting and let the
film adjust. While XP2, at least, has a good exposure latitude, the grain
and shadow detail can vary. Also, the "tone" of the neg changes at
different ev (light values) which results in shifts in the color prints
from sepia to blue grey; if you hold a constant exposure (at least with
XP2) the tone is consistent and the minlab can better dial in the color
cast you want. For XP2 I found exposing at EI 320 or 250 worked nicely in
terms of grain, sharpness and shadow detail.
BD
>Henry Rowbottom wrote:
>>
>> I am going on a tourist-type vacation with a 1850's theme to it, and I
>> want to take some photos that can be made to kook like the old sepia
>> photos.
>>
>> I spoke to my local dealer, and he has pointed me towards the Kodak
T400CN
>> film, as it can be developed with the C-41 Colour Print process, and he
>> claims it will give prints that look like sepias without playing with
the
>> acid they used to use to get those prints.
>>
>> Does anyone have any experience with this film? If you do, I would
really
>> appreciate knowing how well the photos turned out, and if there are any
>> tricks you need to use.
>>
>> It says it is a 400 speed film, but the sales guy says that this is not
>> critical. What speed should I shoot at if the climate is sunny enough
for
>> a 25 ASA film, for instance? Should I shoot all the film at the same
>> aperture, and tell them when they go to develop it, or just go all over
>> the camera to get the depth of field I think I want?
>>
>> I am leaving for this excursion about Aug. 5th, so any information
before
>> that would be appreciated. (I am really leaning toward buying a roll
or 2
>> and playing with it over the next week, just to get a feel for the
stuff.)
>>
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>From: david k <hir...@elrio.org>
>Newsgroups: rec.photo.equipment.35mm
>Subject: Re: Sepia-Look Photos With Kodak T400-CN Film
>Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 15:47:37 -0700
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>
JAW
Vanya3 wrote:
[&<]
>
> But for capturing sepia-looking photos, you should look into purchasing
> filters. I know Tiffen makes 3 filters for that specific purpose... sepia
> 1, 2 and 3. The first one creates a slight sepia effect with the second
> one creating a more enhanced effect. The third one is just like #2 except
> that it adds a warming effect to the filter to create slightly softer
> images.
>
> I hope this helps and good luck.
Camera lens filters won't change the color cast of any monochromatic
film. These films have a deliberate color cast intended to produce good
results when printing on b/w paper but which yield a cast when printing
on color paper. Possible ways to get a sepia tone would be
1) Print on color paper using appropriate enlarger filters to achieve
the desired tone.
2) Print on sepia tone b/w paper. This will probably be more expensive.
Jack