Beseler Color Processing Kit
Don
Beseler RA-4At processing kit. Unfortunately they did not come out very
well.
On one of the photos from the original print colors were yellow and red
tulips with a very black background, yet when I tried to print it my
background was more of a dark blue , the red tulip was a reddish color but
the yellow tulip was orange. I tried adjusting the filtration numerous times
but never got it right. I even entered the exact filtration that I used for
this print at my color printing course that I took, but nope- was not
correct filtration.
Another print original was that of a black performer wearing an orange suit,
background was dark to black. I tried printing this one also but the
background was an orange cast, performers hair was somewhat black and with
a tint of gray/white hair which is what he has. His suit coat was more of a
lite orange rather than deep orange like an Orange is.
I was doing this by tray processing more for just fun than anything else,
but did think I was going to get better results than I did.
I am using a beseler dichro 67s, F-16 -13 seconds for most of the prints. I
tried printing longer and shorter times but did not make much difference.
I was using kodak viewing filters to determine correct filtration. Is there
any type of a test negative that one could use that could give predictable
results such as a negative with several colors on it that one could print
and compare with? Also I wonder how old my chemicals are, I did buy them
just recently but how long were they in the store. I do not imagine that all
that many people use this stuff so therefore the stores inventory could be
old.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Don
Norman Worth
using some I've had for about a year. That's no guarantee yours are still
good, but they probably are. A more likely age problem is the paper, but
that's unlikely too. Paper needs to be stored caefully, away from
contaminents (including odors) and preferably refrigerated.
There are an awful lot of reasons to get bad color. I'm not sure what
causes yours. The first good print is always absolute hell. It may take 20
sheets of paper. Exposure and filtration interact. Be sure you start with
a good negative - one that is typical of your work but varied in color,
having full density range, and having at least some white or neutral gray
areas you can identify (or skin tones). Start by getting the exposure about
right. 50M + 50Y is as good a guess as any for the filter pack. Once the
exposure is right (and the color is terrible), adjust the filter pack. Then
work on the exposure again. Etc....
Temperature control is critical, and the chemicals work better at higher
temperatures (95 - 100F). Be sure to use enough solution. Too little
causes off colors and streaks. Often the tube maker suggests the absolute
minimum amount that will work. Ten to 15 percent more may help.
Contamination is the cause of all sorts of problems with color. Be sure to
use a stop bath between the developer and blix, and be sure to wash the
print and the tube (if you're using one) thoroughly. I give the print six
one-minute rinses with water at 100F in the tube, and it seems to work. Dry
the tube between sheets. I've noticed water in the tube when I load the
paper leads to blotches and off colors.
If you haven't already, get a book on making color prints, and read it.
There are several good ones out there, and they really help. A color
analyzer helps too, but that comes later. For any given paper, you still
have to get that first good print - analyzer or not. You can work without
an analyzer forever with only a little more effort.
With experience, getting the first good print becomes easier - at least
sometimes. You know what to expect.
Good luck
"Don" <do...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:g6adndZdzbW...@comcast.com...
gretchen
I feel your pain...I have been printing my own color negs at home
using a drum and I spent a few months getting it all right. I have
never used trays, only a manual drum processor, but I assume trays to
be just as finicky as a drum--if the chemical temp varies even one
degree, the colors will alter. If agitation is not perfectly
consistent, streaks or weird stains will show. There is a book I found
helpful in printing by Henry Horenstein called Color Photography. It
explains what each color shift could be caused by..such as blue
shadows caused by too short a dev time, etc. It also recommended a
different c-41 kit called Tetenol. I tried that (after lots of
failures with the Beseler kit you mentioned)and the distaster
significantly decreased. I don't know why, but it worked better for
me.
I also know that color filtration will vary from one enlarger to
another..which is why your didn't match the ones you did at class. I
generally start with f/8, 5 sec tests, and the filtration at C:0 M:45
Y:45. After playing around a lot, I was able to match most prints to
about the same filtration. Yet sometimes, randomly a print comes out
totally off..I think this is due to small errors in agitaion, temp,
drain time,etc. Also chemicals are very sensitive to
contamination...so I assume with trays this would mean careful drain
time between.
I found it easiest to make test prints using a person you know
well,in natural light, and match the skin color. Or shoot some images
with a person holding a grey card, to get the middle grey, and
something pure white. White is the best color to see an abnormal
shift. hope this helps.
g.
Don
"Norman Worth" <nwo...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:YcQKa.67013$Io.62...@newsread2.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
> The Beseler chemicals last a long time in concentrated form. Right now,
I'm
> using some I've had for about a year.
Norman, thanks for the input here. I will attempt it again hopefully with
better results.
Don
Jim
processing. Beseler AT kit was working fine, to a point. Then the
chemicals oxidized all of a sudden.
The next kit I got never worked properly.
I finally went with Kodak chemicals and the problems went away.
I was able to get good consistent results. The temp control was more
difficult since I didn't work at ambient temps.
Herbert Kanner
"Don" <do...@comcast.net> wrote:
Try the Tetenal (JOBO) room temperature kit. I've been using them for a
number of years with RA-4 paper and have found that temperature and time
is not critical as long as there is sufficient time. The proof of this
is that I've been able on many occasions to make an exact duplicate of a
print that had first been made a year or more ago.
I am convinced that the reason temp and time are not critical is that
the RA-4 paper has a thin emulsion which develops essentially to
completion.
Herb
--
To send me email, replace deadspam.com by acm.org
Ed Berger
I've encountered several bad batches of this Beseler chemistry over
the past year or so. The probelm is usually with the bottle marked
"step 1, part B". If this liquid has turned black, it's no good. A
Beseler tech. person told me they had a lot of trouble with the
packaging (they have since stopped making these kits--Tetenal makes a
similar room temperature RA-4 kit which seems to be more stable).
Assuming the chemicals are okay, there are several possibilities for
the disappointing results, including contamination of the chemicals
from one tray to another, outdated paper, and use of a safelight (you
really have to do this in the dark). As someone pointed out, dichro
filtration varies widely among different heads, so I wouldn't try to
match any previous settings. I find the Kodak viewing filters to be
extremely helpful once you get the hang of evaluating the tint. The
Kodak book "Basic Developing, Printing, Enlarging, in Color" has a
ringaround section for evaluating color balance. This is a set of
photos you can match with your own to determine necessary filtration
adjustments. Some people may find this method easier than the viewing
filters. The temperature with these AT kits is not critical as long as
you remain within the recommended range (61-77 degrees F) and
compensate in the developing times (40-130 secs). I find that these
materials seem very tolerant of overdevelopment--less so for
underdevelopment. Also, the paper surfaces seem to be more sensitive,
so rubber-tipped tongs help. I've been getting fairly good results
using trays with these kits, but its certainly a more finicky process
than black and white. Good luck!
"Don" <do...@comcast.net> wrote in message news:<g6adndZdzbW...@comcast.com>...
Don
"Ed Berger" <ebe...@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:600d357d.0306...@posting.google.com...
> Don:
>
> I've encountered several bad batches of this Beseler chemistry over
> the past year or so. The probelm is usually with the bottle marked
> "step 1, part B". If this liquid has turned black, it's no good. A
> Beseler tech. person told me they had a lot of trouble with the
> packaging (they have since stopped making these kits--
Well the bottle marked step 1 part B was definately black. Not only was it
black it also had some small black pellet like substance. They did dissolve
after a lot of agitation. I was somewhat suspicious of the chemicals being
bad from day of purchase as I have read that they do not last all that long
maybe a year and I think the store I purchased it from very rarely sells
these kits.
Don
Ed Berger
still got bad batches! Finally the sales person helped me open boxes
in the store to find a couple that were okay--about half of those on
the shelf had oxidized. If you call Beseler (908-862-7999) they'll
replace them for you.
Ed