Hand coloring but which paper
nick ure
and I understand that the best paper style is matt. However, when I try and
buy ilford multigrade RC matt paper I get a variety of answers from...
Ilford don't make RC matt paper to yes we have some in stock, either pearl
or satin.
Help me out please, what do I need. I want to use RC multigrade because that
is the system I use and RC is so much cheaper. However if I have to bite the
bullet and buy fiber then that's what I will do
thanks
Jeanne
you intend to use oils they either take too long to dry or don't dry at
all. Bite the bullet and buy some fiber paper. You can save a little
money as you begin this adventure by cutting an 8X10 sheet into fourths
and practice your technique. I like to use Forte - matte is best.
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Tim Shoppa
It depends on what sort of hand coloring you do, but if it's oil
tints or paints you ought to bite the bullet and go with fiber based.
It's not all that much more expensive;
There are other forms of hand coloring that supposedly work OK
on RC papers (based on watercolors and/or pens), but I've never
done them.
Tim.
Debbie Stewart
RC. I've used both and like the Luminos best. Have Fun
Debbie
Damir Tiljak
jeanneN...@open.org.invalid> writes:
> RC paper is really not suitable for good results in hand painting. If
> you intend to use oils they either take too long to dry or don't dry
> at all. Bite the bullet and buy some fiber paper. You can save a
> little money as you begin this adventure by cutting an 8X10 sheet
> into fourths and practice your technique. I like to use Forte - matte
> is best.
Nonsense!
Oils do not pentrate through gelatine but sits on the top.
So the base of the paper have nothing to do with rate of
drying.
If put in contact with paper or canvas oil will destroy it
after some time due to high ccontents of acid. This is the
reason why painters must prepare canvas by putting on it
some protective layer. Gesso is standard for this way of
protection. Gelatine is another posibillity, it will protect
base from oil paint.
Damir Tiljak
dezr...@psn.net
drying, beyond the normal drying time for oils. And, he's right regarding
oil painting in general -- allowing the oil vehicle to soak into the
support (canvas, paper, whatever) is strictly taboo and will result in two
things happening. First, the paint will dry more rapidly but will dry with
a dull, sunken appearance. Second, the oil will eventually cause the
support to deteriorate. Therefore, great care is taken by painters to make
sure oil does not penetrate to the support. Currently, acrylic gesso is
popular and easy (acrylic contains no oil and so won't harm the support),
but in the past gelatin, gum arabic, rabbit hide glue, just about anything
that would seal the canvas from the oil was used.
The above is just my two cents worth -- personally, I prefer FB to RC, not
just for handcoloring, but for all work, with the exception of "quickies"
and experimentation.
Snorri Kristjánsson
finish (half-matt)
So I use peral for all my prints. I am not sure how multigrade paper reacts
to ´colloring but i guess there is only one way to find out
Snorri
nick ure <nu...@zephyr.net> wrote in message
news:B4BC7100.4170%nu...@zephyr.net...
> I need some advice. I want to start hand coloring my black and white
prints
> and I understand that the best paper style is matt. However, when I try
and
> buy ilford multigrade RC matt paper I get a variety of answers from...
> Ilford don't make RC matt paper to yes we have some in stock, either
pearl
> or satin.
>
> Help me out please, what do I need. I want to use RC multigrade because
that
> is the system I use and RC is so much cheaper. However if I have to bite
the
> bullet and buy fiber then that's what I will do
>
> thanks
>
GMB bw lab
Paul Skytte
GMB Custom Black & White Lab
Hand processed film, tray processed enlargements on the papers of your choice
http://hometown.aol.com/gmbbwlab/myhomepage/business.html
Paul Brannon
Sureguard #957 Retouch-Vellum and Sureguard #941 Matte. These are aerosol
sprays that are Photographic Lacquer with UV Inhibitor. You should be able
to get them at any photographic "pro" shop. The Retouch-Vellum is sprayed
onto your RC print, then left to dry. This product gives the paper "tooth"
that will hold the photo oils or color pencils. I find when making
corrections that using a kneaded eraser works well. After you have the
color applied, spray another coat of Retouch-Vellum, then after that has
dried, apply a coat of Matte to seal the work. Just be aware that you must
use this product in a well-ventilated area, preferably outdoors and
preferably at "room temperature" 72 degrees. So this may not be as
practical during the winter months. If you have trouble locating it, the
address and phone on the can are: Sureguard, Inc. 2350 114th St., Grand
Prairie, TX 75050 (972) 647-9049.
Brenda Brannon
nick ure wrote in message ...
Bill Howell
Assuming you're using Marshall pencils / oils your best bet is fiber.
RC will work fine but the color will not be as saturated. I use Ilford
FB with a matt surface but if you want to stay with RC then Kodak PMax
Art RC is designed and advertised as hand coloring paper. I think
you'll find however that it is not any cheaper than Ilford fiber based
so the decision is whether you want to spend the extra time in the
darkroom that fiber demands. I find the improvement (in fiber)
justifies the extra effort.
Regards,
Bill
In article <B4BC7100.4170%nu...@zephyr.net>,
nick ure <nu...@zephyr.net> wrote:
> I need some advice. I want to start hand coloring my black and white
prints
> and I understand that the best paper style is matt. However, when I
try and
> buy ilford multigrade RC matt paper I get a variety of answers from...
> Ilford don't make RC matt paper to yes we have some in stock, either
pearl
> or satin.
>
> Help me out please, what do I need. I want to use RC multigrade
because that
> is the system I use and RC is so much cheaper. However if I have to
bite the
> bullet and buy fiber then that's what I will do
>
> thanks
>
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Shaara Watts
pencils. I have to dab quite a bit to get the color I want, but the finish
is really nice and the paper is easy to work with in the darkroom. The only
thing to remember is once you coat the picture with the P.M. solution you
have to finish the work in one sitting or the color flakes off. Be sure,
also, to spray with an oil painting protectant spray. My audience seems to
not notice the difference between fiber and RC (pearl finish) because I've
sold every one of them!
FWIW, the Kodak fine art paper which is allegedly designed with enough tooth
to hold paint, works terribly with the pencils.
-sk
dezr...@psn.net wrote in message <38988E9E...@psn.net>...
>I agree with Damir. I've handcolored on RC paper and had no problems with
>drying, beyond the normal drying time for oils.
>snip<
Arlo T. Dog
I've been using Marshall's oils on RC paper for 10 years, first on Ilford Pearl,
and now on Agfa semi-matte. You don't need to spray anything on first, and you
usually don't need to apply any kind of pre-treatment like Marshall's PM
solution. I've found that if you develop a really light touch, and use very
small amounts of paint, you can achieve wonderful results. I sometimes use
water-base retouching dyes for small details first, and then apply oils to the
broader areas.
I often hear someone say that you can't use RC paper, but it's just not true. I
teach classes in photo tinting, and I've just written a book on the subject, and
all the photos for it were done on RC.
Ed K
The Thalia Street Gallery, http://edkrebs.com
Amos
that you can't, not that you shouldn't, but can't either handcolor or tone
RC papers with any good results. It just takes a bit more practice and some
experimentation to find out what works for you. I split-toned some Ilford RC
pearl yesterday in a Thiourea Carbonate toner followed by an Iron Blue
toner. Turned out beautifully and the reactions of some of the people in the
lab when they found out it was RC was pretty comical also. Have fun with it,
Amy
Arlo T. Dog <arlo...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:389E2CCE...@earthlink.net...