Has anyone in this group used the above stated cloranalyzers?
I would like to use one to get good color prints faster and
to get a starting point for BW-exposure and -grade.
Thanks in advandce!
Greets,
Markus.
I have had a Colorline 5100 for a couple of years and love it. I'm not
really sure what the differences are between it and the 7000.
After I got some experience at color printing and calibrated my system,
I found that I can get a good print by the second attempt. Often, if
there is a good gray reference in the scene I can nail it on the first
try. The usual procedure is to measure either a gray reference
(preferable) or a flesh tone to establish color balance and then DMax to
get the exposure. Of course, you have to set up channels for these first
so the analyzer can memorize them. Once you get it down, it is actually
much faster than B&W printing. It helps to standardize on one or two
color negative emulsions and one type paper to keep the variables down
to a minimum. I generally use Fuji NPH and Fuji Crystal Archive type C
in matte finish and these cover most of the bases for me.
--
Rolfe Tessem | Lucky Duck Productions, Inc.
ro...@ldp.com | 96 Morton Street
(212) 463-0029 | New York, NY 10014
The ColorLine 7000 is essentially the same as the 5100 except that it has a few
more features and is menu driven (as opposed to memorizing a sequence of
steps). Plus the Colorline 5100 was discontinued about two years ago and is no
longer available (unless it's sitting on a dealer's shelf somewhere.)
I was involved in re-writing the instructions for the USA, and I have to say
that I had more fun working with the ColorLine 7000 than any analyzer I have
used in many years.
I hope this helps.
Ken -- Jobo USA
sa...@jobo-usa.com
Jobo web site: http://www.jobo-usa.com
I think I'll buy it :).
Greets, Markus.
I have read several comments on this NG and know at least one
photographer who feels that a color analyzer is not essential to
color printing. But I find that the it makes the job of getting good
color prints a lot easier and eliminates a lot wasted prints. There
are many color analyzers on the market. IMHO most of them are
not worth any price. My recommendation, which includes only
the analyzers I have owned and used in the order of preference is:
1. Jobo Colorline 5100 - it along with other Colorline analyzers
are the most user friendly units on the market. They all have
compensation for reciprocity for each of the three primary colors.
Also all Colorline models display the filtration values for each of
the three primary colors as well as the density in log scale. This
is the most useful way to look at color densities. The 5100 is the
latest model and include a few minor enhancements. It is very,
very good. This is what I now use.
2. Jobo Colorline 5000 - there are two versions of this analyzer.
The original version that I also own and a later much improved
version. The difference being that the original version is too sensitive.
This results in longer time for the readings to settle down (could
be as long as 5 to 10 seconds compared to less than 1 second for
the later model and 5100). IMHO, there is no real benefit of the extra
sensitivity.
3. Lici Colorstar 3000 - also sold as Jobo Colorstar 3000 in the U.S.
There are also two versions of this. The newer, under Lici's own brand,
has 100 channels (same as the Colorline models). The older version
has 8 channels. All of the Colorstar 3000 perform faster (fraction of a
second) than any of the Colorline models. But unlike the Colorline
models the Colorstar 3000 assumes equal reciprocity effect on each of
the three primary colors. Also the Colorstar analyzers are not quite as
user friendly as the Jobo's Colorline 5xxx series. You may need to use
the manual rather frequently. Also it does not display the filtration
values in log scale. Instead it used three rows of LEDs. I have the
older version with 8 channels that I use with my slide duplicator when
making slides from negatives.
All of the above and as far as I know only these analyzers allow you to
calibrate a channel for a specific emulsion and then print almost any
brand of negative without any need to recalibrate. If you wish, you can
calibrate additional channels for each color target - e.g. gray, light skin,
dark skin, sky, grass etc. All other analyzers require that you calibrate
a channel for each specific combination of paper emulsion, film emulsion
and color target.This can be a real pain. Another big advantage of these
analyzers is that it is very easy to make the perfect gray print which is
required to calibrate an analyzer.
I used to own a Beseler analyzer and I was never able to use it. It is just
not consistent. Also you have to be very careful and not expose the
sensor to bright room light while in analyze mode. Twice I had to send it
to Beseler for repairs. I would stay away from any of the Beseler
analyzers.
The only other analyzer I have personal experience with is the original Lici
Colorstar. It works but is rather primitive without any memories and IMHO
it is not worth the trouble.
--
Manny Bhuta
Randolph, NJ USA
"Markus Glueck" <glu...@darmstadt.gmd.de> wrote in message
news:3B7B68A...@darmstadt.gmd.de...