info
Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Bellini (italian) RA4 chemicals...
15 views
Skip to first unread message
Dimitris Tzortzakakis
May 23, 2023, 7:50:15 AM5/23/23
to
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52918736077/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919704725/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919775908/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919704740/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919315956/in/dateposted-public/
well, I've got from Germany this RA4 kit, it was the only one that was
available as the Tetenal was out of stock, at first the germans wouldn't
send it, as it's not allowed to go by plane (supposedly dangerous
chemicals) but there was also the option of it coming to me either by
truck or train , I don't know exactly(I'm in the southmost part of
Europe, Crete, Greece). It seems of very good quality and of modern
composition as normally blix is like red wine and part a+b while this
had one-component blix and like rose wine. colour developer is a bit
more yellow and two component, of course. I must state that colour
printing is easier than I thought because when you find the flitration
for a specific brand of film and as long as the negatives are correctly
exposed you use the same filtration and exposure time. B&W was more
difficult than I thought as for getting good negatives and prints you
must take into account a million things. Including judging the negative
(I've got a B&W Philips analyser NOS but it doesn't work, also a german
B&W analyser from 1971!!! It doesn't work either) so I must judge the
negatives with the eye. To choose the correct paper grade (I use
multigrade of course) and the correct exposure time, to divide wet from
dry bench, to be extremely careful with developer or fixer
stains....while with colour I get my negatives developed from the lab
and RA4 process is standard, with predictable results and there are of
course no different paper grades. I use a stop bath in RA 4 from glacial
acetic acid I get from the chemist's, dead cheap, 3 euros for a 100 ml
bottle which lasts for years, also the same for B&W, I also got a bottle
of stabiliser concentrate from the lab which I got my camera from, but
the Bellini came with its own stabiliser!!!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919704725/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919775908/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919704740/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/167258532@N02/52919315956/in/dateposted-public/
well, I've got from Germany this RA4 kit, it was the only one that was
available as the Tetenal was out of stock, at first the germans wouldn't
send it, as it's not allowed to go by plane (supposedly dangerous
chemicals) but there was also the option of it coming to me either by
truck or train , I don't know exactly(I'm in the southmost part of
Europe, Crete, Greece). It seems of very good quality and of modern
composition as normally blix is like red wine and part a+b while this
had one-component blix and like rose wine. colour developer is a bit
more yellow and two component, of course. I must state that colour
printing is easier than I thought because when you find the flitration
for a specific brand of film and as long as the negatives are correctly
exposed you use the same filtration and exposure time. B&W was more
difficult than I thought as for getting good negatives and prints you
must take into account a million things. Including judging the negative
(I've got a B&W Philips analyser NOS but it doesn't work, also a german
B&W analyser from 1971!!! It doesn't work either) so I must judge the
negatives with the eye. To choose the correct paper grade (I use
multigrade of course) and the correct exposure time, to divide wet from
dry bench, to be extremely careful with developer or fixer
stains....while with colour I get my negatives developed from the lab
and RA4 process is standard, with predictable results and there are of
course no different paper grades. I use a stop bath in RA 4 from glacial
acetic acid I get from the chemist's, dead cheap, 3 euros for a 100 ml
bottle which lasts for years, also the same for B&W, I also got a bottle
of stabiliser concentrate from the lab which I got my camera from, but
the Bellini came with its own stabiliser!!!
0 new messages