Anyone know a source for bulbs for my Durst L184 8x10 Condenser Head enlarger--forget bulbman and similar or Durst pro usa as well!
J. Burke
replacement for that either. Available out of USA maybe????
Calls for 300 Watt 120 volt OPALE--standard base/4 inch cone.
Norman Worth
www.bulbdirect.com) I've got some pretty exotic things from them, and they
are good at working with you to determine what you need. It helps to have as
much information as you can get about what you need when you call.
"J. Burke" <burk...@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:v5v6gad...@corp.supernews.com...
Bob Salomon
"J. Burke" <burk...@peoplepc.com> wrote:
The GE guide lists the L184 with CLS 301 head as using an ELH which is
quartz.
The standard screw base enlarger lamp, as listed by GE, Osram and
Syvania are the PH 211, 212 and 213. They are 75, 150 and 250W. The ELH
is a 300 W 2 pin halogen mirror lamp.
How do you happen to have what appears to be a non-standard bulb?
Was your enlarger originally sold in the U.S.? Is this a military
surplus version?
Have you talked to Jens at Durst-Pro?
Thorne is a UK manufacturer, I believe. But if 300W is the lamp called
for then 500W could be too much for the wiring and insulation.
DLG
Bob,
A buddy down in Pathology has one of those beasts, Really, just about
the last enlarger you would ever need to own; its built for a lifetime
of abuse. About the only enlarger that I have used that I can remove a
negative from, for cleaning, and replace without needing to refocus.
As to the pin base halogen...on his unit it goes in a pin to screw
adaptor for using the enlarger in point source mode. He uses special
12v bulbs which run through a special Durst transformer for intensity
adjustment. My buddy does this all of the time for EM (electron
microscopy) negatives, but, I can tell you from personal experience,
this isn't something you would normally do for pictoral negatives. The
condensors must be absolutely clean and so should the negatives. Any
spec of dust or dirt almost ANYWHERE in the optical path will show up
as a defect in the print. Makes every neg print like it was developed
in Rodinal. Fun to try though if you have never used it this way.
Note: if you want to give it a go, pick a good lens, they are used
wide open when printing like this. You also need the matched
condensors for your particular negative size and enlargement factor.
He has a complete set of six condensors, and can run anything in point
source mode from 35mm up to 4x5.
As to the light. the one he has is 300W and it's quite large. Almost
like a normal screw base house light on steroids, although, it has a
metal base assembly near the normal screw base. Just for grins, we did
try one of the more normal enlarger bulbs (a PH 213 I think) and it
worked fine, although it didn't last too long (maybe 10 hours). The
big 300W Durst bulb came with the enlarger, when purchased new by the
department, and has been used for many, many years. My friend said he
checked on getting an extra, to put on the shelf, about five years
ago, but passed when he was quoted over $100 (US). The quote came
direct from whomever was the US Durst agent at the time.
I will try to find out if he has an official designation for the bulb,
or knows of a current replacement.
David Glos
josb...@bellsouth.net
It does in fact take a standard base 300 Watt. It is the normal (Italian
made) US version. I have a spare Condenser head (no bulb though) and they
are identical.
This is a 110/120 volt setup not 220/240.
Per the Owners manual:
"The standard condenser head kit includes a 300 watt opal lamp.This has an
extra large envelope to ensure even illumination over the whole film area
when using large formats."
"Order code for optional lamps : OPAL 200/500 and 1000 watts."
I also have two 1000 Watt spares BUT prefer to get the lower wattage models.
My enlarger timer doesn't even support 1000 Watts. If worse comes to worse I
can take the Rheostat route to reduce the output.
WORLD IMAGES-- "NO LONGER AVAILABLE"
"Bob Salomon" <bobsa...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:bobsalomon-1FA7F...@reader0902.news.uu.net...
RWatson767
I was going to suggest Bulbman but see that you have been there and done that.
Send me a .jpg of what you have now and I will try. I do enlargers everyday.
Bob AZ
John and Julie Ockman
off him a few years ago for my Elwood, and the 1st I put in is still in
use. Spares are not for sale. He still had some on his table when I saw
him at a show last month.Try him Monday thru Thursday because he is
traveling/doing shows usually Friday-Sunday. I can recommend him as a
good guy to work with.
georges.giralt
As far as I know, these bulbs are no longer made.
(I face the same problem for my Laborator 1000 condenser head (4x5
size))
It used a 100mm diameter bulb with a E27 base, in 300 W Opal.
The only bulbs I can found are Philips enlarger bulbs 150 W 65 mm
diameter E27 base. Unfortunatelly, they do not cover the format.
But recently, I've found a Philips halogen double enveloppe bulb with a
95 mm diameter 150 W with the outer enveloppe white painted. The
illumination is correct on my easel. The bulb is sold in France as a
HalogenA G95 150W E27 bulb (240V)
I do not know if you can find it in the US. (it is _really_ difficult to
find them on the Philips web site !
Hope this helps.
John
Just thought I'd show something that I'm currently working on.
As many of you know I recently purchased a Durst 138S with a CLS301 dichro
head. The head itself is quite huge and mostly unnecessary as I work only in
B-&-W and prefer graded FB materials. I've replaced the CLS301 with the standard
condenser head and am pursuing the final restoration of this moldy goldy.
What I've done is to rotate the light socket 180 degrees which orients the
light horizontally. This was very easy as the bracket is shaped like and "I"
with drillings identical on both ends.
The bulb I am considering using is simply a plain old household flood
light. I had previously (just for testing) placed a 150 household bulb in the
enlarger and the light output through the lens appears to be about 1 stop less
than what I am now seeing.
Next is to get some diffusing material and something to cover the
condenser drawers.
http://www.darkroompro.com/equipment/enlargers/durst/d138s/d138s.jpg
Regards
John S. Douglas Photographer & Webmaster
Formulas, Facts and Info on the Photographic Process
http://www.darkroompro.com
ArtKramr
>Head enlarger--forget bulbman and simila
>From: John jo...@darkroompro.com
>Date: 3/25/03 1:05 AM Pacific Standard Time
>Message-id: <ub608vchaaokodaom...@4ax.com>
How about a coldlight unit that slips into the condenser slot? Those coldlight
people on Long Island can make you one on order.They might even have some in
stock. I have one for my 138 and it works fine.
Arthur Kramer
Visit my WW II B-26 website at:
http://www.coastcomp.com/artkramer
John
>How about a coldlight unit that slips into the condenser slot? Those coldlight
>people on Long Island can make you one on order.They might even have some in
>stock. I have one for my 138 and it works fine.
>
>Arthur Kramer
I've thought about it a little Arthur but cold light heads have their own
issues such as drift and the higher current draw through the contacts of the
enlarger.
Besides, I kinda like this simple solution ;>) I've often wondered why
enlargers such as the D2 and others use specialty bulbs for the printing of
B-&-W.
josephb...@googlemail.com
Dear David,
Are you out there somewhere? Please pretend that this is 2003 and you have just written the note below to Bob Saloman.
I would like to know more about how your friend was using his Durst L184 (or a lab's Durst it seems) with the light arrangement that you described. It appears that he had an L184 with CLS 301 head that could somehow function like a point source, and that he had some interesting results with a particular bulb and adaptor.
Could you you get in touch and fill me in at the email address below?
Thank you!
josephb...@gmail.com
--Joe