Need Help With Durst Printo
SPIRIT 787
I just purchased a Durst Printo Dry to Dry Print Processor from B&H Photo. I'm
having a heck of a time getting the therms to work properly. One day they seem
to work fine and the next day I can't get one or both up to temperature. I
don't
know what I could be doing wrong. I've exchanged them and still can't seem to
get them to work properly. Any help would sure be appreciated. Please e-mail
me with solutions at SPIR...@aol.com.
Dwuane Thomas
KHOwen
>From: spir...@aol.com (SPIRIT 787)
>Date: 1/14/99 1:44 PM Eastern Standard Time
>Message-id: <19990114134431...@ng09.aol.com>
>
>
I work for Jobo USA, the newly appointed distributor for DURST in the USA, so
please consider my comments accordingly.
First of all, let me remind you that we at JOBO still have limited experience
with each of the Durst products. However, remember that with your Printo
processor, it is a totally modular unit. It is very important that each one be
securely attached and plugged into the next piece, or they may not get the
power they need to do their respective jobs. Also remember that the
thermostats in the Printo are accurate to about 1 degree C. Give them 15
minutes to warm up the solution before you even consider checking them.
These considerations may help you. If not, please contact me at my e-mail
address below.
Ken -- Jobo USA
sa...@jobo-usa.com
Jobo web site: http://www.jobo-usa.com
David Brown
had one of my units refuse to heat was when I was a little low on solution.
I topped it up and all was fine.
David
KHOwen <kho...@aol.com> wrote in article
<19990116203425...@ng36.aol.com>...
Jeanette D. Walton
this, however, it gets difficult to clean.
I like the idea of using acetic acid and an alcohol (isopropanol I assume) to clean
the rollers. The stuff which I obtained from my local minilab cleans up the tars
instantly, but is really nasty if you get it on your skin.
Steve Holzworth wrote:
> In article <01be41f3$cd102bc0$5e36eec2@default>, "David Brown"
> <kes...@spamfree.rmplc.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > You may want to check that you have enough solution in - the only time I
> > had one of my units refuse to heat was when I was a little low on solution.
> > I topped it up and all was fine.
> >
>
> I've had a Printo for a number of years. I've never had any problems with
> the tempering units, even when running high-temp processes (100F). As to
> David's point, "enough" chemistry to me means that you should fill the tank
> high enough that the chemistry is just about half way up the INTAKE rollers
> on each unit. This seems to be just slightly less than 2.5L of chemistry.
> Be careful not to overfill. The lip of the tank is not appreciably higher
> than the intake rollers. Be sure the units are on a mostly level surface.
>
> If you are using RA4, the developer step will tend to cause some chemical
> buildup. A combination of equal parts of alcohol, acetic acid, and water
> will remove most of the developer residue. I haven't noticed any problems
> with the blix. I suggest you mark each tank, motor/therm, and cover piece for
> the process step it's used for, then don't cross them up.
>
> In my experience, it is a bad idea to leave the chemistry in the unit
> overnight (although my instructions say it's OK). The developer seems
> to contaminate the tank more if it's given a chance to sit idle. For normal
> cleaning after use, simply run water through each unit for a minute or two,
> then dry the heating element, transport rack, and tank. Be sure to
> separate the soft output rollers on each rack. They'll stick together
> almost like they're glued if you let them remain in contact more than about
> a day.
>
> Cheap storage tech: Rubbermaid sells plastic refrigerator-door juice bottles in
> grocery stores that are designated as holding 2.75 US Qts. These just happen
> to almost top out at 2.5 L, and are relatively cheap, so they're good for
> storing just the right amount of chemistry for each Printo step.
>
> ****
>
> Hey Ken, did y'all get Printo parts in yet? I called back in October and
> was quoted a December time frame. I'm looking to replace my squeegee rollers,
> and possibly a roller frame end (I dropped a unit while cleaning it - epoxy
> is holding so far...).
>
> --
> Steve Holzworth "Do not attribute to poor spelling,
> ath...@mindspring.com That which is actually poor typing..."
> RTP, NC - me
paulvan...@my-dejanews.com
spir...@aol.com (SPIRIT 787) wrote:
>
> I just purchased a Durst Printo Dry to Dry Print Processor from B&H Photo. I'm
> having a heck of a time getting the therms to work properly. One day they seem
> to work fine and the next day I can't get one or both up to temperature. I
> don't
> know what I could be doing wrong. I've exchanged them and still can't seem to
> get them to work properly. Any help would sure be appreciated. Please e-mail
> me with solutions at SPIR...@aol.com.
>
> Dwuane Thomas
>
I'v been using now for some time a PRINTO-processor (I bought them second
hand. My experiences are very positive, even if I only have 2 modules. The
temperature control works very fine. So please check the following: - use
sufficient developer/bleach (2.5 liters of each); - the modules need a long
time to get the right temperature (at least 15 minutes!) to speed up, I
prewarm my chemicals in the microwave
Good luck and just get in touch if you need more information.
Paul Vandepitte
paulvan...@hotmail.com
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SPIRIT 787
Printo problem. I didn't have enough
chemistry in them. Thanks again.
Dwuane
Bruce McLaughlin
together
almost like they're glued if you let them remain in contact more than
about a day."
I had a set of rollers ruined because of this problem. I tried to
separate them with waxed paper and also with Kodak transport roller
sheets. Unfortunately, they just stuck to both materials rather than to
themselves. What is your method of avoiding the problem?
Graham
my printo. Other posters are right when they say check the levels of
the chemistry. In my particular case it was the heating elements. I
don't know if you have found this but as the modules are clipped into
place the elements sometimes catch on the cogs of the roller units.
This, over time, will slightly bend the elements up from their original
position. Hold the unit up so that you look at it from the side. The
top of the element should be parallel to casing. When I looked at mine
I discovered that they were bent up, thus the top of the element (and
the thermostat) would be above the level of the chemistry. As the
element over heated the thermostat would shut it of therefore not being
on long enough to heat it up. If necessary bent the element down a bit
just to make sure it is totally submerged.
As people have said the exit rollers do stick together if left
stationary for more than 30 minutes or so. That is why Durst supply
spacer clips that fit in the ends of the rollers to keep them apart for
storage.
I have made two modifications to my printo. The first thing I did was to
fit a separate switch to the dryer unit. It seemed a total waste of
electricity to have the dryer going when it wasn't used ie warming up or
if you wanted to take a break but had to keep the machine ready for use.
The second modification is more of an accessory. A friend of mine built
a timer which the printo is plugged in to. When the timer is first
powered up it runs the machine for 40mins (to warm up the chemicals).
After this period it goes into standby mode where it switches itself on
for one minute in every 7. This keeps the rollers free and the chemicals
up to temperature. The is also a button on this timer that I press when
I insert a sheet of paper for processing this keeps the machine on for
four minutes to make sure the paper clears the dryer then it switches
back to standby mode again.
This device is absolutely brilliant as it ensures the machine is
programmed to suit the way I work ie I make a print and then do
something else until it is done. Sometimes I'm engrossed in whatever
else I'm doing a don't return for a while whereby the machine switches
to standby thus saving power, chemical oxidisation and sticking rollers
(if it was just switched off). All the times are programmable and there
is a beep to let me know when it's about to switch off.
Also I have simplified cleaning the machine. I just drain the chemicals
into 2 ltr brown glass medicine bottles (which actually take 2 1/4ltrs)
and throw the rest of the chemicals away. I then fill the modules with
water and run the machine for an hour or so (with the dryer switched
off) drain the water, remove the roller units to drain and place the
tanks upside down in my sink until the following day. All in all about
6 minutes working time.
When I next use the machine I just assemble, pour in the chemicals from
my bottles top up to the correct level with replenisher, switch on, do
something else for about 3/4's of an hour and start printing.
It's good to be organised. I hope this helps...
--
Graham S. Gott
Quantum Photographic
Canterbury (UK)
(Remove "nospam." to reply)
Jeanette D. Walton
We both have hot, neutral and ground. For the European market the Printos
have the same three connections but many more pins (they are rectangular if
I recall correctly.) It would seem that the European connectors would offer
the interesting prospect of controlling motor speed without changing the
cogs. That is, one of the hot leads could run the "Therm" part of the drive
and another lead the "Mot". While the Motors are AC, not lending themselves
to a Pulse Width Modulation control, surely an amplifier control circuit or
a chopped (modulated) AC circuit could be built for the same effect.
I control the motor in my Jobo with a Pulse Width Modulated supply - the
electronics in the JOBO appear to be early 1970's. The speed can be
continuously varied. The JOBO, however, gets used when I don't want to mix
2.5litres of chemistry.
Graham
<jdwa...@home.com> writes
>The European Printo's and those for the US use different power connectors.
>We both have hot, neutral and ground. For the European market the Printos
>have the same three connections but many more pins (they are rectangular if
>I recall correctly.) It would seem that the European connectors would offer
>the interesting prospect of controlling motor speed without changing the
>cogs. That is, one of the hot leads could run the "Therm" part of the drive
>and another lead the "Mot". While the Motors are AC, not lending themselves
>to a Pulse Width Modulation control, surely an amplifier control circuit or
>a chopped (modulated) AC circuit could be built for the same effect.
The connectors used on my Printo are the same as that used on our
standard computer mains lead. Three pins, three connections. So the
splitting of the supply to the motors and heaters is not possible.
Further, the motor speed is governed by the mains frequency. Which is
how they all manage to stay at the same speed.
Jeanette D. Walton
of stated voltage) on your power grid and the the Printo isn't going to slow
down? Same frequency(maybe), lower voltage.
A frequency can be frequency modulated or chopped to effect a variable speed.
Better yet, start with DC and use a crystal or RC oscillator to derive a more
exact frequency, with a divide by n counter, specify precisely the frequency to
deliver, amplify the signal to drive however many "MOT"'s or "THERM"s are in use
and filter to cut out transients. We used this procedure in Solid State Physics
Lab (decades ago) with old MacInstosh (tube) power amps to generate a powerful
AC signal at a desired frequency! (We had 60Hz gremlins to get around.) Today
you would do it with MOSFETS from International Rectifier or Motorola. I wonder,
however, whether it would be worth the trouble given that I only use my Printo
for RA4. Possible, yes, practical, maybe.
The Printo I started with (it's since been expanded) had 12 pin DIN connectors.
These I replaced for US mains. Perhaps those sold in the UK, Italy, Germany and
the US probably each have different connectors to comply with local code.
As I said, the JOBO was easy to modify, it uses a 28 VDC motor so PWM was readily
iplemented. The PWM circuit even allowed me to get more life out of the JOBO
motor since the voltage swings from 0 to max at a precise pulse width. I haven't
put an RPM counter on yet, but if I get the energy, a Hall Effect (magnetic
pulse) counter would not be difficult to implement. I'll put the PWM circuit up
on my webpage if anyone is interested.
Jack Walton