Jobo Expert Drum 3006: how to rinse?
Martin Jangowski
I recently aquired a Jobo 3006 drum. Previously, I used a 2500 tank
with 4x5 reel, but now I will process my sheet film in the Expert drum.
However, one thing isn't completely clear to me: how do I rinse the
film after fixing? The Jobo cascade doesn't fit (that's understandable,
the Expert drum works different), should I fill the drum a few times
with water, let it turn and hope for the best?
Martin
James Meckley
I use expert drums; they are not intended to be used for the final wash.
After the fix, I remove the film from the drum, put it in 4x5 or 5x7
stainless steel hangers, and wash it in a tank.
James Meckley
Guillaume Bonfante
> Hi Folks,
>
> I recently aquired a Jobo 3006 drum. Previously, I used a 2500 tank
> with 4x5 reel, but now I will process my sheet film in the Expert drum.
> However, one thing isn't completely clear to me: how do I rinse the
> film after fixing? The Jobo cascade doesn't fit (that's understandable,
> the Expert drum works different), should I fill the drum a few times
> with water, let it turn and hope for the best?
>
> Martin
Hi,
I use what is recommended by jobo, it looks to work pretty well. OK, you
cannot take a drink at the same time.
see :
http://www.jobo-usa.com/jobofoto/instructions/instructions_process_b-w_film.htm
Guillaume
Paul and Paula Butzi
<m.jan...@phoenix-ag.de> wrote:
>Hi Folks,
>
>I recently aquired a Jobo 3006 drum. Previously, I used a 2500 tank
>with 4x5 reel, but now I will process my sheet film in the Expert drum.
>However, one thing isn't completely clear to me: how do I rinse the
>film after fixing? The Jobo cascade doesn't fit (that's understandable,
>the Expert drum works different), should I fill the drum a few times
>with water, let it turn and hope for the best?
>
>Martin
I use a Jobo 3010, but the principle surely is the same with the
smaller 3006.
I just wash the film on the processor. I generally wash for five
minutes, changing the rinse water every thirty seconds. I use about
500ml of water.
-Paul
--
Articles on B&W photography, camera and equipment reviews, and photographs at:
http://www.asymptote.com/butzi (updated 3/2/00)
(Latest change - review of lenses for Leica M cameras)
KHOwen
>From: Martin Jangowski m.jan...@phoenix-ag.de
>Date: 4/11/2000 5:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time
>Message-id: <8cuq7k$no$1...@inside.p-i-n.com>
>
>Hi Folks,
>
>I recently aquired a Jobo 3006 drum. Previously, I used a 2500 tank
>with 4x5 reel, but now I will process my sheet film in the Expert drum.
>However, one thing isn't completely clear to me: how do I rinse the
>film after fixing? The Jobo cascade doesn't fit (that's understandable,
>the Expert drum works different), should I fill the drum a few times
>with water, let it turn and hope for the best?
>
>Martin
>
>
>
>
>
>
I work for JOBO USA, so please consider my comments accordingly.
I'm sure you want an archival wash for your film. You CAN get it right inside
your Expert Drum. For BW film, after you complete the fixing step, pour in
water (slightly more than the amount of chemicals you were using) and let it
rotate for 30 seconds. Repeat that one more time.
Now pour in your hypo clearing agent and let it rotate for the time suggested
by its manufacturer. Then drain it out.
Now pour in water again and let it rotate for 30 seconds. Repeat this for at
least 6 cycles and you will have an archival wash.
The EXPERT DRUMS really are designed to wash the film inside. The film does
not actually remain in contact with the walls of the small tubes inside because
they are somewhat barrell shaped. This way they only barely touch at the top
and the bottom, but the rest of the film is away from the walls. The water can
flow in and out easily during the rotation.
Remember to use your wetting agent OUTSIDE of the drum. Otherwise it can cause
a build-up that ultimately will cause contamination.
Ken -- Jobo USA
sa...@jobo-usa.com
Jobo web site: http://www.jobo-usa.com
Martin Jangowski
[very interesting information about correct usage of the Expert Drum]
Thank you!
Unfortunately, while using my 3006 for the first time, the rotation motor of
my CPA-2 decided to stop working. The motor shaft broke inside the white cog,
bringing everything to a standstill. A new motor is $$$, so it will be taking a few days until I can try the next batch of films.
BTW, I saved the film inside the drum. I used a B&W-process at 20 Celsius, so
I just rolled the drum by hand on the lab floor, until tge developing time was
over. After fixing I transferred the sheets to my trusty old 2509 for the
final wash... back to the salt mines.
Martin
Pam Niedermayer
enable film development by inspection. Occurred to me that
maybe the Jobo Minilux or other safelight might be suitable.
Is this true?
Pam
--
Pamela G. Niedermayer
Pinehill Softworks Inc.
1221 S. Congress Ave., #1225
Austin, TX 78704
512-416-1141
512-416-1440 fax
http://www.pinehill.com
WhOop's
cheers
Pam Niedermayer
a filter of some sort over it? Or run it bare?
Pam
Ralph W. Lambrecht
Ralph W. Lambrecht
Paul and Paula Butzi
I would be very cautious about substituting for a #3
filter.
The #3 filter is NOT a random filter that is
vaguely yellow-green. It has a VERY NARROW
range between 500nm and 530 nm with a maximum
transmittance of about 0.2% at 520nm and a broader
patch of transmittance above 800nm.
This means the the filter is OPAQUE at all other
wavelengths. The result will be a very, very dim
green safelight with wavelengths between 500 and
530 nm only.
Since the usual use for a #3 is to inspect film during
development, and the #3 is carefully tweaked to
hit the maximum sensitivity of the human visual
response so that it can be as dim as possible while
still making things visible, it would make good
sense to just buy a new filter that cannot possibly
have faded. Expensive, perhaps, but cheaper than
the frustration of trying to develop by inspection and
fogging film.
-Paul
On Wed, 03 May 2000 23:15:44 +1000, WhOop's
<mar...@wollongong.apana.org.au> wrote:
>A yellow/green darkroom safelight bulb will do the same job.
>
>cheers
>
>Pam Niedermayer wrote:
>
>> I'm looking for a 5x7 or larger #3 safelight filter to
>> enable film development by inspection. Occurred to me that
>> maybe the Jobo Minilux or other safelight might be suitable.
>> Is this true?
--
Pam Niedermayer
out of about 15 searched who carries it at all, they have a
10x12 size; but they're real expensive, something like $75
(all their other prices were high, too). Just spoke with
Calumet about an order, they've had to place a special order
for me.
Pam
--
Pam Niedermayer
Pam
"Ralph W. Lambrecht" wrote:
>
> Ilford and Kodak both, sell them.
>
> Ralph W. Lambrecht
>
> Pam Niedermayer wrote:
> >
> > I'm looking for a 5x7 or larger #3 safelight filter to
> > enable film development by inspection. Occurred to me that
> > maybe the Jobo Minilux or other safelight might be suitable.
> > Is this true?
> >
--
Wayne
from Kodak. Dont know what their prices are for the size you want, but I
think its about $30 for 5.5 inch round ones.
Wayne
> > >Pam Niedermayer wrote:
> > >
> > >> I'm looking for a 5x7 or larger #3 safelight filter to
> > >> enable film development by inspection. Occurred to me that
> > >> maybe the Jobo Minilux or other safelight might be suitable.
> > >> Is this true?
> >
> > --
> > Articles on B&W photography, camera and equipment reviews, and photographs at:
> > http://www.asymptote.com/butzi (updated 3/2/00)
> > (Latest change - review of lenses for Leica M cameras)
>
Wayne
Wayne
Pam Niedermayer wrote:
>
> Yeah, but none of their resellers have it in stock.
>
> Pam
>
> "Ralph W. Lambrecht" wrote:
> >
> > Ilford and Kodak both, sell them.
> >
> > Ralph W. Lambrecht
> >
> > Pam Niedermayer wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm looking for a 5x7 or larger #3 safelight filter to
> > > enable film development by inspection. Occurred to me that
> > > maybe the Jobo Minilux or other safelight might be suitable.
> > > Is this true?
> > >
>
> --
Pam Niedermayer
their online store, so I'll hunt for a phone number.
Pam
Wayne wrote:
>
> Safelight filters are one of the things that can be ordered directly
> from Kodak. Dont know what their prices are for the size you want, but I
> think its about $30 for 5.5 inch round ones.
>
> Wayne
>
Paul and Paula Butzi
wrote:
>I've been trying to buy a new filter, have found one vendor
>out of about 15 searched who carries it at all, they have a
>10x12 size; but they're real expensive, something like $75
>(all their other prices were high, too). Just spoke with
>Calumet about an order, they've had to place a special order
>for me.
>
One possibility might be to build a very small, very dim
LED safelight using a low intensity green LED with a
center wavelength of 520nm and a very narrow
spectral spread. Given that brightness is not an issue,
the big problem would be finding a sufficiently narrow
spectral spread (or finding some way to cut out the
unwanted wavelengths). Perhaps you could shine a
520nm LED through a prism and use a narrow slit
carefully aligned with the right wavelength's emergence
point, spectrograph style, to pass just the right wavelengths.
Edmund Scientific surely sell cheap prisms which could
be used, and I get the feeling you're not averse to
building it yourself if it will avoid buying a pricy filter.
I've never used a #3 filter but from the transmittance/density
curve that Kodak specify, it must be indistinguishable from
total darkness, near as dammit. The most transparent point
in the spectral curve is at 520nm where it has a diffuse
density of 2.8, which translates to a transmittance of
0.16%. Nearly opaque. If you put a 15 watt bulb behind
one, it would be like lighting the room with a .02 watt
bulb. (Oh, since you were asking about IR film I'll
point out that a #3 is progressively more transparent
above 800nm, which might be an issue for IR).
If you build your own safelight, aim for really, profoundly dim.
Be aware that if you're buying used filters, you must avoid
confusing a Kodak 3 safelight filter with a filter that
is specified as Wratten 3. Wratten filter #3 is a light yellow
with a soft cutoff between 420nm and 480nm. If the buyer
tells you the filter looks opaque, then it's not a Wratten #3.
If they tell you it's yellow, it's probably not a Kodak 3 safelight
filter.
Unfortunately the Kodak safelight filter series and the Wratten
filter numbering scheme have the same name apply to
radically different filters. Caveat Emptor, I guess.
Oh, and used safelight filters are often faded beyond
usability, too. Makes the LED route even more appealing,
I guess.
-Paul
Pete Schermerhorn
>confusing a Kodak 3 safelight filter with a filter that
>is specified as Wratten 3.
But what about my 10x12 filter that says "Kodak Safelight Filter Wratten Series
3"?
Pete Schermerhorn, in the glorious Berkshire hills of western Massachusetts
Remove nojunk.
Pam Niedermayer
found me, sold me a #3 10x12 for $20 + S&H. I'll assume that
she knows the quality of the filter is good and the
difference between a #3 and a Wrattan #3; however, somewhere
in the wee hours of the morning, seems that someone referred
to a #3 as a Wrattan. If this doesn't pan out, can always
order a 5.5" round Kodak safelight with #3.
Glad I have real sensitive blue eyes, looks like I'll need
the boost just to see anything.
I hadn't thought of trying to develop the IR by inspection;
but why not? Maybe a small flourescent with an IR blocking
filter, assuming there is such a thing.
I like the idea of building an LED light, love the looks of
the Zone VI in the Calumet catalog (b&w only though). But my
crafts expertise is more woodworking and the like than
electronics and light. You've given me the numbers, though,
so maybe I should stroll through a Radio Shack. Usually I
reserve my projects for things a lot more expensive than
$80, just penny dumb and pound wise.
Pam
Paul and Paula Butzi wrote:
>
> One possibility might be to build a very small, very dim
> LED safelight using a low intensity green LED with a
> center wavelength of 520nm and a very narrow
> spectral spread. Given that brightness is not an issue,
> the big problem would be finding a sufficiently narrow
> spectral spread (or finding some way to cut out the
> unwanted wavelengths). Perhaps you could shine a
> 520nm LED through a prism and use a narrow slit
> carefully aligned with the right wavelength's emergence
> point, spectrograph style, to pass just the right wavelengths.
> Edmund Scientific surely sell cheap prisms which could
> be used, and I get the feeling you're not averse to
> building it yourself if it will avoid buying a pricy filter.
>
> ...
> Be aware that if you're buying used filters, you must avoid
> confusing a Kodak 3 safelight filter with a filter that
> is specified as Wratten 3. Wratten filter #3 is a light yellow
> with a soft cutoff between 420nm and 480nm. If the buyer
> tells you the filter looks opaque, then it's not a Wratten #3.
> If they tell you it's yellow, it's probably not a Kodak 3 safelight
> filter.
> ...
> Oh, and used safelight filters are often faded beyond
> usability, too. Makes the LED route even more appealing,
> I guess.
>
> -Paul
--
Pam Niedermayer
whether they existed. Where did you get your bulb?
Pam
WhOop's wrote:
>
> Paul and Paula Butzi wrote:
>
> > I would be very cautious about substituting for a #3
> > filter.
>
> The bulb is going to be heaps cheaper and I do know it works irrespective of what
> is defined by a #3 filter.
>
> Cheers
WhOop's
Paul and Paula Butzi wrote:
> I would be very cautious about substituting for a #3
> filter.
The bulb is going to be heaps cheaper and I do know it works irrespective of what
is defined by a #3 filter.
Cheers
>
> The #3 filter is NOT a random filter that is
> vaguely yellow-green. It has a VERY NARROW
> range between 500nm and 530 nm with a maximum
> transmittance of about 0.2% at 520nm and a broader
> patch of transmittance above 800nm.
>
> This means the the filter is OPAQUE at all other
> wavelengths. The result will be a very, very dim
> green safelight with wavelengths between 500 and
> 530 nm only.
>
> Since the usual use for a #3 is to inspect film during
> development, and the #3 is carefully tweaked to
> hit the maximum sensitivity of the human visual
> response so that it can be as dim as possible while
> still making things visible, it would make good
> sense to just buy a new filter that cannot possibly
> have faded. Expensive, perhaps, but cheaper than
> the frustration of trying to develop by inspection and
> fogging film.
>
> -Paul
>
> On Wed, 03 May 2000 23:15:44 +1000, WhOop's
> <mar...@wollongong.apana.org.au> wrote:
>
> >A yellow/green darkroom safelight bulb will do the same job.
> >
> >cheers
> >
> >Pam Niedermayer wrote:
> >
> >> I'm looking for a 5x7 or larger #3 safelight filter to
> >> enable film development by inspection. Occurred to me that
> >> maybe the Jobo Minilux or other safelight might be suitable.
> >> Is this true?
>
Lee Carmichael
wife Paula Chamblee are the only two photo artists that I can think of that
practice development by inspection. I know several others that look at the
film but I question if they really know what they are looking at. My
recommendation would be to run the tests and read them on a densitometer.
Most of the film will be printable with the N development time. Maybe you
would want to learn N- times. However you choose to do this, you will find
that there is no easy answers. You must put in the time in the dark to
perfect your craft. What you choose to make images of is your choice also.
--
As usual,
Lee Carmichael
mailto:cl...@flash.net
Wayne wrote in message <391079...@mr.net>...
>See my other message-you can buy direct from Kodak
>
>Wayne
>
>Pam Niedermayer wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, but none of their resellers have it in stock.
>>
>> Pam
>>
>> "Ralph W. Lambrecht" wrote:
>> >
>> > Ilford and Kodak both, sell them.
>> >
>> > Ralph W. Lambrecht
>> >
>> > Pam Niedermayer wrote:
>> > >
>> > > I'm looking for a 5x7 or larger #3 safelight filter to
>> > > enable film development by inspection. Occurred to me that
>> > > maybe the Jobo Minilux or other safelight might be suitable.
>> > > Is this true?
>> > >
>>
>> --
Pam Niedermayer
that may or may not be of value. Sure won't know if I don't
try it. If it does work, could introduce some incredible
flexibility and control below the negative level.
Pam
Dan Smith, Photographer
Workshop last Summer in Sandy, Utah (put on by Tillman Crane & the Waterford
Institute), at which Paula Chamlee put on a demo of the technique. I had
success from the first time I tried it in my own darkroom shortly after the
workshop & process the big negatives this way now.
I use a dark green safelight I picked up in a yard sale. An inexpensive
plastic 'bullet' style of safelight that is quite old. A very low wattage
lamp inside, 12 watt I think, and it gives plenty of light from about 3 feet
away from the negs for inspection and so far has not caused any fogging
problems. I did test for fogging the first few times & had none so haven't
worried since.
dan smith
"Lee Carmichael" <cl...@flash.net> wrote in message
news:6wJQ4.8322$wb7.6...@news.flash.net...
Pam Niedermayer
Pam
"Dan Smith, Photographer" wrote:
>
> I develop my 8x10 and larger by inspection, thanks to the Ultra Large Camera
> Workshop last Summer in Sandy, Utah (put on by Tillman Crane & the Waterford
> Institute), at which Paula Chamlee put on a demo of the technique. I had
> success from the first time I tried it in my own darkroom shortly after the
> workshop & process the big negatives this way now.
>
> I use a dark green safelight I picked up in a yard sale. An inexpensive
> plastic 'bullet' style of safelight that is quite old. A very low wattage
> lamp inside, 12 watt I think, and it gives plenty of light from about 3 feet
> away from the negs for inspection and so far has not caused any fogging
> problems. I did test for fogging the first few times & had none so haven't
> worried since.
>
> dan smith
>
Pam Niedermayer
Pam
Edgar Pankey wrote:
>
> i made a light table using infrared led's well above film sensitivity
> that i put my developing tray on and watch the process with a cheap
> night vision scope. i realize this is a little crazy but definitely
> makes water bath and pyro work a little easier and i had the scope
> already.
> gar